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View Full Version : to crimp or to solder



Blue67gto
08-26-2004, 11:51 AM
I just got my painless harness I was a little surprised that they recommend crimping over soldering the connections. I always felt that soldering was a better way to go. I know that it isn't that big of a deal but I think solder and shrink rap would look and hold up better. what has been your expereince? What do you guys think?

thanks

matt

DONGEE6773
08-26-2004, 11:58 AM
I''d say do what mosts comfortable, but you're right, solder and heat shrink would be the route I'd take, no chances of a loose crimp, intermittant problem later on...just my .02 :woot:

Salt Racer
08-26-2004, 12:27 PM
Soldering makes the wires brittle. It's not good where wires get whipped around from vibration, etc. Also not good for small (like 18G or smaller) wires. I used to solder every connector, but I've broken a few as a result.

I try to use OE-style connectors (including GM Weatherpack) whenever I can. Each connector has two crimping sections - one for bare wire and the other one grabs onto the wire insulation. These won't slip off like cheap parts store connectors.

When I'm stuck with those parts-store connectors, I usually strip off plastic insulation, crimp them to wires (there are crimping tools specifically designed for non-insulated connectors), and finish it off with shrink wraps.

I occasionally use soldering where corrsion is a concern. In these cases, I strip off extra 1/16~1/8" of insulation so that bare wires will stick out a little more on connectors. Then I solder the tip of the bare wires.

dennis68
08-26-2004, 01:58 PM
I always solder, when you spend 8 hours a day chasing intermittent electrical problems you find dealing with a broken wire MUCH easier than a loose connection. The proper way to make any electrical connection as per Ford, Chevrolet, and Chrysler Motors is to crimp the connection then solder and seal with heat shrink. Any other repair method is NOT authorized by any manufacter I am aware of and they will not pay a warranty claim if they find out it was repaired otherwise.

Radio Joe
08-27-2004, 01:15 PM
I always crimp then solder. be careful not to let the solder flow back into the wire.. thats what causes it to become brittle. Heat quickly and add only enough solder to give a solid connection.

Of course I am picky... I will replace an entire wire most of the time instead of splicing. I crimp and solder each terminal before inserting it into the connector.

Pro-touring towncar
08-29-2004, 08:09 PM
As a former professional installer of mobile electronics. I have used both, crimps can have it's place but for me I solder. I have chased too many bad crimps to use them often. I have worked in places where I couldn't solder(even with my small iron) done properly both soldering and crimping are about the same. If you do crimp use a good tool, like klines. they give the best crimp you can get.

Tim

next69
08-30-2004, 08:01 AM
I would agree, if you use a good crimper the crimped connection will not fail. I use a crimper from Paladin which is a very nice crimper for insulated connectors, also if you venture beyond the auto parts store you can buy better crimp connectors that have heat shrink molded into the connector and its the same color as the plastic connector so there is another alternative.

pushrod243
09-19-2004, 06:02 PM
you can also buy crinp connectors without insulation. I have not seen them in the parts store. I get them from my electrical supply vendor. I use them on the Harleys and custom bikes I service a build. The stand up in the a solid mount unbalanced engine motorcycle I think they will hold up on most cars. I use Klines to crimp.

Jims78elky
09-20-2004, 11:39 PM
Definitly solder,then shrink wrap...I think it looks cleaner,and i have never
had any wiring problems doing it this way,just don't overheat the wire..

BRIAN
09-23-2004, 06:21 PM
Just had this discussion with aircraft mechanic and was surprised to hear that crimping was preferred method. Although not Pep Boys style crimp connectors. I think MAD sells connectors that don't have insulation and can be both crimped and soldered. I always solder as I just think the crimped insulated connectors look like crap. Solder and shrink tube is most professional looking in my eyes. I guess that is why I don't build planes.

kustom71
09-29-2004, 12:26 PM
i always crimp and shrink wrap,when you solder and shrink wrap if its not completely airtight which it probably wont be it will start to corrode eventually leading to a broken connection!just my opinion though!!!!!!!!!!!!

dennis68
09-29-2004, 01:31 PM
We have some really cool shrink at work, it has a sealer that melts into the connector after it is soldered. The sealer oozes out the end of the wrap as it shrinks.

protour_chevelle
09-29-2004, 02:11 PM
So when you guys say "crimp the connection then solder and seal with heat shrink" how exactly does that work? I was thinking it would be solder, crimp, then heat shrink. Please let me know how abouts this is done.

Thanks,

-Matt

dennis68
09-29-2004, 04:25 PM
Take an electrical conector with no insulation-crimp the wire to the connector-solder the connection-seal the connection with heat shrink (preferably the good stuff with the goo inside).

If you crimp after solder it is likely the connection will break.

TonyL
09-29-2004, 05:19 PM
~Take your wire, slide the heat shrink onto the wire up and out of the way of the work, remove the plastic crap off of the crimp terminal (if its there) and strip and crimp the wire as normal.

~Then, heat wire/terminal area with soldering iron or torch, and solder the two together.

~Then slide the heat shrink down over the soldered/crimped terminal and heat with heatgun or heat source.

~You are done!

yody
09-29-2004, 09:56 PM
what about joining 2 wires together, twist them together then solder then shrink tube, or just use a butt connector? i have been taking the wire split it in 2 kinda like a "V" do teh same thing with the other wire, twist them together and then solder, does that sound okay?

dennis68
09-30-2004, 05:43 AM
Yeah, for just joining 2 wires. I think we were discussing joing a wire to a connector, like a spade or ring style.

yody
09-30-2004, 10:38 AM
so you think the way i am doing it is cool? i know at first we were talking about spade connectors etc.. but what about connecting 2 wires together/

Pro-touring towncar
10-01-2004, 12:10 PM
Yody, That is wha I do for splicing wires. For adding a wire to the center of another I always split the center of the wire then slip the wire through wrap around then solder. then pull the wire toward the direction it come from( going too). wrap tightly with tape then secure with a zip tie.

Tim

dennis68
10-01-2004, 09:12 PM
Yeah, for joining 2 wires or cente splicing there is no need for a connector.

harshman
10-02-2004, 02:03 PM
I don’t mean to sound pissy, but don’t you think that this is a very simple thing to do. You are joining two wires together… two copper wires. If you want to solder them or use connecters, they do the same thing. Personally, I have wired over 300 trailers using connecters and never had a return. Just make sure that the tension is never on the connection (zip tie them before or after) and use split or mesh loom and your golden.

parsonsj
06-03-2005, 06:16 AM
I just repaired my wife's mini-van fan relay and soldered all the connections (because my previous repair from several years ago failed ... and yes, I used crimped connections)

I was practically frothing at the mouth with how slowly my soldering iron worked.

So ... since I have all the wiring to do on II Much; I need a new/better tool to solder with. Anybody got a recommendation?

thanks,
jp

dennis68
06-03-2005, 07:52 AM
John, the butane tools work well as they give you the flexibility to move around (or under the dash) without that damn cord in the way. I use a Blue-point pencil type iron, works well.

parsonsj
06-03-2005, 08:03 AM
Hey Denny,

Thanks. Great minds, I guess. I was just on the Snap-on website looking at those.

Followup question: is it a problem melting insulation with the butane torches?

jp

dennis68
06-03-2005, 09:06 AM
You may want to try and avoid it but a little charred insulation is OK, you're going to shrink wrap anyways and it will cover the cosmetic ugliness.

Remember the key to a good connection is not to overheat the wire, if you are burning a bunch of insulation it may require a tweak to your technique.

parsonsj
06-03-2005, 09:13 AM
Ok, sounds good. I'll do some practice setups with the torch first.

thanks again.
jp

myclone
06-03-2005, 02:59 PM
Take an electrical conector with no insulation-crimp the wire to the connector-solder the connection-seal the connection with heat shrink (preferably the good stuff with the goo inside).

If you crimp after solder it is likely the connection will break.

If the connection is not in a controlled enviroment then solder it/heat shrink it. As an industrial electronics tech for the past 19yrs+ I agree with dennis68 110%.

BTW, do NOT use scotch locks on ANYTHING unless you enjoy going completely insane trouble shooting electrical problems. Those things arent even allowed on our property here at the plant and if youre a ele maint guy and get caught with them you get to go home for the day without pay. I support that policy as Ive personally spent hours tracing down production line problems only to find a freakin scotch lock buried in a control panel that some idiot used. Scotch locks cost a friend of mine a toasted engine in his GN due to the previous owner splicing the fuel pump feed wire using a scotch lock which failed and the engine leaned out at WOT/20psi of boost. He couldnt get out of it quick enough and it detonated the bottom end out of it.

parsonsj
06-03-2005, 04:22 PM
I'm getting the message. But what the hell is a scotch lock?

jp

myclone
06-03-2005, 06:54 PM
I'm getting the message. But what the hell is a scotch lock?

jp

I could prolly google and find a pic but Im feeling lazy... Basically a plastic clam shell fitted with sharp contacts that is clamped over wire(s) that are being spliced. When closed the contacts cut through the insulation into the conductor. Prolly the most unreliable/worthless do dad ever invented other than the electric turbo charger :)

myclone
06-03-2005, 08:41 PM
Heres a PDF link to 3M's site (they make scotch loks) since I had some free time between work orders here at the plant. They are "officially" called insulation displacement connectors and page 2 shows them being used.

http://multimedia.mmm.com/mws/mediawebserver.dyn?oooooo8vG_CoI6Poa6PoooVIW&JsB7_X-

Stay away from them....far far away or you will resemble :seizure: at a later date when electrical issues arrise.

dennis68
06-03-2005, 09:13 PM
Stay the hell away from scotch locks at all costs. I wouldn't use one if it was just temporary to get home. You are better off just twisting wires and using some electrical tape.

rb70383
06-07-2005, 03:01 AM
I just put a new hitch on my truck, and while under there, the previous owner, scotch locked ever wire on the 7-pin harness for the trailer connector in order to run a connector into the bed for a GN trailer. Well I saw that and :crying::barf:I cut every wire and resoldered each one. Where the scotch was, each wire was corroded! Oh also had to replace the break away on my trailer, and tore into the junction box, guess what I get to do after the move! :squint: :banghead: