Final Preparations for the OPTIMA Batteries OneLapCamaro [Archive]

James OLC

03-09-2010, 07:56 PM

With the 2010 Tire Rack One Lap of America coming up in less than two months, David and I thought we would start a post on the final preparations of the OPTIMA Batteries OneLapCamaro. We’ll run down some of the work that we’ve done over the last year to dial in the front suspension - all the way to the work we did last weekend (updating the car with new Speed Tech upper and lower control arms) - through the next six and a half weeks of last minute preparation.

Looking back almost a year ago today, the car was just about a mess; I wish I could be kinder about that but it had a lot of issues. Don’t get me wrong, it was far and away the best First Gen that I had ever driven and was more than capable of holding it’s own but it had a ton of issues… first and foremost was a clearance problem between the outer tie rod ends and the inner hoop of the wheel. Admittedly at 5.9” of backspacing we were pushing the envelope but despite having nearly 3/8” of static clearance, there was contact due to deflection under load:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/04/shop20060-1.jpg

If you notice in the picture (looking past the disturbing trail of aluminum) you’ll see that we were not running any bump stop spacers (mostly for space) at this point. The car felt good on the road 9 times out of 10 but hit a big bump and that 1 out of 10 times was ‘alarming’. HRE helped us out by rehooping the inner wheels so that we could gain some clearance and properly space the rod end for bumpsteer but that left us running a narrow tire (255/35) on a narrow rim (8”) which was less than ideal. We also had no rear sway bar (so the car was rolling pretty badly) and a very conservative alignment.

This was the starting point for David.

The first thing that we addressed at Pozzi Racing was the rear sway bar. We went through (seemingly) countless renditions to get us to where we are now. We started with an off the shelf Second Gen Camaro rear bar that David modified to work with the Lateral Dynamics 3-link:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/05/rear20barJPG-1.jpg

He cut the ends off and welded on an extension which allowed for adjustability. This setup was really good on the road and pretty decent (a huge improvement) on the track but we were fighting an understeer at autocrosses and the car was simply not rotating the way that we wanted it to. David modified this bar three times - progressively getting shorter and shorter - until it was working fairly well but unfortunately, the packaging was no longer working out.

Taking a step back, David then designed a completely new rear bar starting with a piece of old rebar that was kicking around the shop. One he had the geometry that he was looking for and got it to fit in the car, he called up David Wheeler and the guys at Hellwig Products who built us new rear bar that worked great!

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/03/Hellwig20Rear201JPG-1.jpg

…it was a long (but fun) process of ‘trial and error’ to get it dialed in. We would go to an autocross and run the car, try an adjustment on the rear bar, and run again. We did that for probably three events until we had the rear bar exactly where we wanted it.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/03/Hellwig20Rear202JPG-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/03/Hellwig20Rear203JPG-1.jpg

At which point we determined that we had just slightly too much front bar. Hellwig Products had built us a great hollow front bar that was working really well with the untuned rear but as we got the car to start turning in better, we wanted to soften the front a touch. Hellwig again came to our rescue and built us a new front bar with a slightly thinner tubing that reduced the rate about 10%. It took nearly 11 months and seven or eight different renditions but we finally have a car that turns.

James OLC

03-09-2010, 07:57 PM

While all of the sway bar tuning is going on, David is working on his own Skunk Works style project – reengineering the steering on the car to provide clearance for wider front wheels and tires as well as near ideal bumpsteer and alignment.

We were starting with this:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/03/Steering20start-1.jpg

And hoping for something like this:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/03/steering20goal-1.jpg

To do that he created a new center link, repositioning the inner tie rod end pickup points:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/03/Center20Link20ComparisonJPG-1.jpg

Rebuilt the steering arms – moving the outer tie rod end pickup point up:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/03/steering20mod-1.jpg

And found a new inner tie rod end that worked with a custom fabricated adjustor sleeve and a rod end for the outer…

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/03/Tie20Rod20ModificationJPG-1.jpg

The result was near ideal bumpsteer characteristics, no shims (but the ability to add them if need be) and more than enough clearance for the wheels:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/03/steering20done-1.jpg

James OLC

03-09-2010, 07:57 PM

And while all of this is going on, we are closing in on springs and shocks and looking at how we were going to shove another inch of tire on the front (and, ok, the back too). We went through a couple of different spring rates and added some progressive (but modified) shock mounted bump stops bet were still looking for increased travel on the front. We were borderline on the compression height and wanted to add an inch of travel just to be on the safe side; it wasn’t bad but we wanted a little bit more travel to allow the car to set and go rather than worry about bottoming on a hard corner.

The solution came from Blake Foster and the guys at Speed Tech Performance. We decided to change out our old Global West control arms in favor of a new set from Speed Tech for a couple of reasons…

First - Speed Tech’s high clearance upper control arms allow for more backspacing and still give lots of wheel clearance:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/03/SpeedTech20Upper20ArmJPG-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/03/SpeedTech20Upper20Arm202JPG-1.jpg

And second - Speed Tech’s lower control arms have a generous spring pocket which, when combined with ATS Chicane coil over lower mounts, place the lower shock mount about ¾” lower than the GW’s. David and I had toyed with cutting the GW’s up to lower the mount but this was a much easier solution.

Lower shock mounts welded, waiting for paint…
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/03/SpeedTech20Chicane20WeldJPG-1.jpg

James OLC

03-09-2010, 07:58 PM

One thing that we found with the high clearance upper arms was that we needed a bit more clearance on the frame while at full droop. Mary was quick to come to the rescue…

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/03/Clearance20Upper20MountJPG-1.jpg

Shaping the frame mount just a bit
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/03/Upper20Mount20DoneJPG-1.jpg

Giving us a perfect fit
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/03/Upper20Mount20TogetherJPG-1.jpg

Keeping in mind that we needed that clearance at full droop on the hoist, a condition that we acknowledge we’ll only encounter if we’re sailing through the air. But, we thought, better safe than sorry.

James OLC

03-09-2010, 07:58 PM

At the end of the day, the Speed Tech upper and lower control arms went in with minimal fuss and took (significantly) fewer shims to align than we had used previously. Ultimately we decided on a conservative alignment for the car – settling in at just over 5.5° of caster (slightly more than that on the right side) and slightly more than 1.5° of negative camber; toe in is set at 1/16”.

The finished product:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/03/SpeedTech20Control20Arms20DoneJPG-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/03/SpeedTech20Upper20CA20DoneJPG-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/03/SpeedTech20Installation20DoneJPG-1.jpg

I can’t say enough about the great product and outstanding customer service that Blake and everybody at Speed Tech provided! It’s really nice to have people like them supporting the hobby with great products and advice!

James OLC

03-09-2010, 07:59 PM

We were hoping to get our new ZR1 stlye front hubs installed over the weekend as well, but UPS did not share our sense of urgency. Instead we tweaked the exhaust a bit to make sure that we had all the clearance we wanted and then tacked everything to hold it in place. Once again, Mary was quick to come to the rescue:

Same line, different context… it stuck.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/03/Weld20You20BtchJPG-1.jpg

We also took the opportunity to raise the ride height a half inch on the front and ¾ or so on the back – just for bit more road clearance. We rescaled the car (3,582 pounds with a 49.8% cross weight) and tightened the rolls bars up and are one step closer to the One Lap of America starting line on April 30th.

David is working on the pinion angle now – trying to eliminate the slight driveline harmonic that has been annoying us since day 1. The ‘funny’ thing is that the pinion angle is technically correct but the driveshaft angle is a bit steep. We’ll get it figured out…

Coming next (hopefully) will be the ZR1 hub install and a quick check of pinion angle at the new ride height. Then we wait for new wheels and tires and we should be good to go at the Run To The Coast in three weeks! Oh… and I guess the trailer hitch and trailer setup have to be squeezed in here too…

We’ll keep you posted.

1badchevelle

03-09-2010, 08:25 PM

dam... Love the detail of this post. keep them coming. Great to see all the time that goes into fine tuning a car like this. I will say that last pic of Mary welding will be my background.

Damn True

03-09-2010, 08:49 PM

Ahem....need this.

CarlC

03-10-2010, 04:00 PM

Mary just needed a new victim to practice her welding skills. Nice work!

Do you notice any rubbing problems with the fluid tube running from the front shock to the reservoir?

sik68

03-10-2010, 05:00 PM

James OLC

03-10-2010, 05:33 PM

Mary just needed a new victim to practice her welding skills. Nice work!

Do you notice any rubbing problems with the fluid tube running from the front shock to the reservoir?

Yeah - Mary has been working on her welding for a while now and I think she was reaching for her mask before I even finished saying the work "tack". I have to admit though, when Mary said "weld you b*tch, weld" I just about lost it. That woman needs to be miked any time she is within 5 feet of a car!

We don't seem tp have any issues with the line to the remote reservoir... although there is a little bit of rub on the frame and the faintest mark on the line. That was easily explained by David... "oh yeah... I ground the steering stops down a bit last time." We relocated them slightly but it's not usually an issue.

James OLC

03-10-2010, 05:36 PM

Looks really great! Good luck in the One Lap!

I am curious about your control arms shims comment, global west vs speedtech. I have the global west uppers (and the ATS spindle) and am thinking about running between 1.5-2 deg camber when I finally get around to aligning the car....you're saying I'll probably be packing a huge stack-o-shims?

Thanks - we appreciate the support!

I'm not saying that you'll be packing a huge stack-o-shims... I was just saying that we were. As I have said before...

I should probably state that I don't recommend most of these modifications for the average enthusiast... they should be considered to be for off road use only and what works and fits on the OPTIMA Batteries OneLapCamaro may not fit or work on any other car on the planet...

Chevrolaine

03-10-2010, 06:41 PM

I have to admit though, when Mary said "weld you b*tch, weld" I just about lost it. .

LMFAO!! Great, who's gonna wipe up the water I just spit up all over my desk??
Great thread and pics!

sik68

03-10-2010, 07:30 PM

Thanks - we appreciate the support!

I'm not saying that you'll be packing a huge stack-o-shims... I was just saying that we were. As I have said before...

I should probably state that I don't recommend most of these modifications for the average enthusiast... they should be considered to be for off road use only and what works and fits on the OPTIMA Batteries OneLapCamaro may not fit or work on any other car on the planet...

Who you callin' average?! Haha. I guess what I meant to ask is did you notice if the global west arms are longer compared with the speedtech arms...which would effectively add some + camber.

I can't wait to see the car in person. Will the car be at any events in northern california this spring/summer?

CruizinKev

03-10-2010, 09:01 PM

wow awesome work! :twothumbs :drool:

Motown 454

03-10-2010, 09:55 PM

Nice upgrades. The car should run even stronger this year.

bonecrrusher

03-12-2010, 06:42 AM

What front subframe are you guys running?

Damn True

03-12-2010, 10:01 AM

What front subframe are you guys running?

Original equipment.

...highly modified with ATS goodies.

James OLC

03-12-2010, 11:42 AM

As True says above it's a modified stock subframe using the SpeedTech Performance ATS Chicane coil over conversion.

wiedemab

03-12-2010, 01:25 PM

Rebuilt the steering arms – moving the outer tie rod end pickup point up:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/03/steering20mod-1.jpg

The result was near ideal bumpsteer characteristics, no shims (but the ability to add them if need be) and more than enough clearance for the wheels:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/03/steering20done-1.jpg

Are there any strength concerns with welding the steering arm? I'm just asking from a curiosity stand point. How did you weld it - mig, tig? Is that a cast, forged piece from GM?

James OLC

03-19-2010, 04:15 PM

Tires arrived today...

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/03/tires-1.jpg

hopefully wheels are not far behind.

80 MONZTA

03-19-2010, 05:38 PM

MrQuick

03-19-2010, 10:44 PM

Are there any strength concerns with welding the steering arm? I'm just asking from a curiosity stand point. How did you weld it - mig, tig? Is that a cast, forged piece from GM?

I am curious about this too.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/03/steering20mod-1.jpg
I doubt it looking at the size of that groove.

It takes a lot less pressure than a lower coil over mount.
I don't know about you guys but i just love jigs!!

looks good Team one lap!!

vince

Bow Tie 67

03-20-2010, 04:01 AM

I want to see the trailer mount setup.

David Pozzi

03-28-2010, 09:06 PM

The arms are forged steel. I welded them using the mig since I have years of experience doing similar welds to tractor ripper shanks with a mig. Ripper shanks I have done are 1" thick x 3" front to rear and about 20" long. If they break I hear about it right away. I got so I could weld them well enough that they would break somewhere else if they broke at all. I magnafluxed the arms after welding.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

Trailer hitch is coming soon. Time is getting short with having to go to RTTC and Del Mar!!!:hand:

David Pozzi

03-28-2010, 09:16 PM

Here's some new photos of recent repairs to OLC.
Radiator plug was leaking and galled, had to drill it out and chase the threads.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

New petcock installed.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

Reverse solenoid was not working, found a bent terminal on the left hand side of the plug. This will be a big relief!
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

dipren443

03-29-2010, 04:12 AM

James OLC

03-29-2010, 06:04 AM

Thanks David!

The drain plug on the rad has been "on the list" since SEMA '08... the original drain that we had wouldn't clear the oil filter and got swapped out to the pipe plug at the last minute. Unfortunately the pipe plug galled the threads on the way in and wouldn't come out so, function over form, we ended up sealing it up and only thought about it when we noticed a little bit of moisture in the corner of the rad.

I'm guessing that the reverse lockout plug got tweaked when the Magnum went in over the summer. Another thing that was on the list to look at but since it wasn't keeping us from doing anything was put off and put off. Last week David switched out the brake light switch (from a pressure switch that was getting flakey to a modified electric one) and when he couldn't hear the solenoid clicking when he was done we decided it was time to dive in and see what was happening.

While David was busy in the shop, I was busy at the computer - almost finishing the update on out website - www.OneLapCamaro.com. It's a complete redo and is 90% finished and 90% functional at this point. Check it out if you have a chance.[/url]

This week... final prep for the Run To The Coast next weekend then we're wrapping the car next week. We had a bunch of issues getting the ZR1 hubs but they are finally here - I found an alternative source for them after the high profile vendor for these strung us along for three weeks before admitting they had no stock. I'm going through the same thing now with brakes (whatever happened to customer service?) but we should have that sorted out soon.

David Pozzi

03-29-2010, 10:09 PM

dipren443

03-30-2010, 06:12 AM

The factory arms are supposed to be 1040 steel, I'd like to have these annealed, at least they'd bend before snapping. Ripper shanks are "Plow Steel" Which I believe is 1040, but the John Deere alloy is stronger than "plow steel" reproductions I've had made locally out of 1 1/4" plate. I'd like to get the arms reproduced from one billet piece and stop using these, now that we know the geometry works.
David

David,

I have been in search of a tempering chart for you... to no avail.

This link has some info:

http://www.suppliersonline.com/propertypages/1040.asp

Still searching for that temper chart.

Nick

John Wright

03-30-2010, 06:55 AM

Damn True

03-30-2010, 07:15 AM

The factory arms are supposed to be 1040 steel, I'd like to have these annealed, at least they'd bend before snapping. Ripper shanks are "Plow Steel" Which I believe is 1040, but the John Deere alloy is stronger than "plow steel" reproductions I've had made locally out of 1 1/4" plate. I'd like to get the arms reproduced from one billet piece and stop using these, now that we know the geometry works.
David

David,

What do you think about removing the arms (once One Lap is done of course) and sending them to Matt to duplicate in another material?

[full disclosure: I have no earthly idea what that material might be, I'd leave that to someone with more materials engineering knowledge than I have.]

dipren443

03-30-2010, 07:17 AM

David,
(You may already know this, but just in case....)
I find the spark test pretty good at determining weldability or general identification of unknown materials...If this arm is of the low carbon variety, I suspect that it won't gain any appreciable hardness unless it was rapidly cooled after welding.

Check out this link that explains the spark test and heat treating of materials....Hit "next" to continue reading.

http://www.tpub.com/steelworker1/5.htm

This may not always be ideal... But if anyone really needs to know what material something is, we have several Xray Fluorescence material analyzers here. If I got a hold of a sample... I can easily run it.

Just a thought.

John Wright

03-30-2010, 07:41 AM

Not everyone has access to a PMI, so the spark test can be of some value...although you can rent them

http://atlas-inspection.com/blog/rental/rent-niton-hand-held-xrf-%E2%80%93-pmi-gun/

dipren443

03-30-2010, 07:51 AM

Not everyone has access to a PMI, so the spark test can be of some value...although you can rent them

http://atlas-inspection.com/blog/rental/rent-niton-hand-held-xrf-%E2%80%93-pmi-gun/

Ahh, Atlas... Wouldn't touch them with a 10ft pole... ;) Have a bit of history with them and it isn't very good.

David Pozzi

03-30-2010, 09:02 AM

The first thing I noticed is they ring when you hit them with a hammer, this indicates right away it's better grade steel. Lack of any cracks showing up indicates it's not too exotic. Grinding it shows it's hard and tough, so does filing, but again, not as hard as a spindle. Spark testing shows it's in the range of 1040 but I've not been able to pin it down more than that. I made a couple of phone calls and of course it isn't recommended to weld on them, I was told they are "probably" 1040, Rockwell 38 C was recommended as a ballpark. I'll look into heat treating them, but replacing with billet is the best way to go in the long run.
David

James OLC

03-31-2010, 05:48 AM

David started working on the trailer over the last couple of days... after hunting around for a few days he found this one literally in his own back yard. It needs a repaint so David took the sand blaster to it yesterday:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/03/trailer1-1.jpg

It should do the job once it's cleaned up and a couple of minor issues are addressed. Best part is that it has two enclosable, lockable compartments and should be able to fit all of our gear, tools, spares, and supplies.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/03/trailer2-1.jpg

Work on the hitch for the Camaro will resume after Del Mar.

killer69

03-31-2010, 06:27 AM

The factory arms are supposed to be 1040 steel, I'd like to have these annealed, at least they'd bend before snapping. Ripper shanks are "Plow Steel" Which I believe is 1040, but the John Deere alloy is stronger than "plow steel" reproductions I've had made locally out of 1 1/4" plate. I'd like to get the arms reproduced from one billet piece and stop using these, now that we know the geometry works.
David

have a look at the steering arms that come with the Unisteer rack and pinion set up.

David Pozzi

03-31-2010, 11:39 AM

Good idea! :)

wiedemab

03-31-2010, 12:14 PM

Dumb question, but what was that trailers original intended use? I can't say that I've seen one like it.

protouring70

03-31-2010, 01:05 PM

Whats the deal with the Camaro in the back ground. I love the center exhaust on those cars.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/03/tires-1.jpg

hopefully wheels are not far behind.[/QUOTE]

dogz67chevelle

03-31-2010, 06:03 PM

Whats the deal with the Camaro in the back ground. I love the center exhaust on those cars.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/03/tires-1.jpg

hopefully wheels are not far behind.[/QUOTE]

That is Mary's '02 "pushes like a dump truck" SS

deanna

CarlC

04-04-2010, 09:17 PM

I wonder what the flight characteristics are of the trailer. After five days on the road the right foot may mysteriously be pushed too far during one of the long road trips.

John Wright

04-05-2010, 03:22 AM

I wonder what the flight characteristics are of the trailer. After five days on the road the right foot may mysteriously be pushed too far during one of the long road trips.
LOL....it might need a spoiler to help keep it on the ground during the supersonic trips.

James OLC

04-13-2010, 06:59 PM

Big changes over the last week... the most prominent of which is our new look...

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/04/wrap1-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/04/wrap2-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/04/wrap3-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/04/wrap4-1.jpg

CruizinKev

04-13-2010, 08:00 PM

nice!! turned out great :twothumbs

454bug

04-13-2010, 09:28 PM

Hey James,

The layout looks great!

Was the purpose of the new look more to have the wrap-job handle the "abuse" of the long trip and preserve the paintjob or just to have a different look for the event?

It definitely makes the Optima badging stand out more and kinda matches their company colors...

MrQuick

04-13-2010, 10:21 PM

Love the Pozzi sticker....
very nice. HRE wheels?

vince

James OLC

04-14-2010, 08:00 AM

Thanks guys!

Hey James,

The layout looks great!

Was the purpose of the new look more to have the wrap-job handle the "abuse" of the long trip and preserve the paintjob or just to have a different look for the event?

It definitely makes the Optima badging stand out more and kinda matches their company colors...

A little bit of both - hopefully the wrap helps out a bit with road dust and crap. Thankfully it's probably too early for bugs but likewise I think that there is still going to be a bunch of junk on the highway and a little bit more protection is better than nothing. I also wanted to change thing's up a bit for a while and showcase the companies that have supported David and I with the program.

Love the Pozzi sticker....
very nice. HRE wheels?

vince

Yeah Vince - Comp 20's. We've been running them since day one (except for borrowing Rupp's wheels at RTTC last weekend). We had HRE widen them last week and now have 275's on the front and 335's out back.

nicks67camaro

04-14-2010, 09:53 AM

I like the 2 tone look. Is the bottom half a "wrap" or did you repaint it?

James OLC

04-14-2010, 10:40 AM

Thanks Nick - it's a wrap

John Wright

04-14-2010, 11:02 AM

Thanks Nick - it's a wrap
Need to update your avatar to reflect the new look....LOL

killer69

04-14-2010, 11:54 AM

car looks Great!!! thanks for the graphics on the wing

Rybar

04-14-2010, 11:58 AM

I was just going to say, at least you won't be mistaken for Penny anymore lol

James OLC

04-15-2010, 07:27 AM

LOL

On the way back from Del Mar, David swung by Spectre Performance who look a few minutes to get us set up with a new air intake...

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/04/air20intake-1.jpg

It's been a long time coming and is a definate improvement over the old setup. Thanks again to the guys (and girls) and Spectre Performance - they are doing some great work in the Pro-Touring community and are a really nice crew!

Yesterday David got the trailer sandblasted and dropped it off for a quick scuff and squirt so it's presentable for the trip. Still trying to hash out brake pads but we're getting close to being ready. Trailer hitch install this week, final prep next week and we're in South Bend in two weeks!

CarlC

04-15-2010, 03:23 PM

Pozzi Tuned. I dig it!

6'9"Witha69

04-15-2010, 04:03 PM

That sticker is full of win!!!

Motown 454

04-15-2010, 06:44 PM

The car looks great. The rap changes it for sure.

James OLC

04-15-2010, 07:24 PM

and so it begins... two weeks to go and the fun starts. This afternoon David opens up the trailer to pull the car out and is greeted by a trail of oil running from the back door of the trailer to the drivers side front corner of the Camaro. It didn't take long to discover the the left front shock is toast - having a cut in the line to the remote reservoir. It's probably (ok - definately) best that it happened now - we have a fighting chance of getting it fixed before we have to leave. If it had happened when we were on the road... yech....

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/04/shock20cut-1.jpg

We also found that the rear axle bearings were seaping a little bit (we actually noticed this last week after sprinkling Penny's wheels at RTTC). Not a huge deal but given the mileage that we're looking at we'll try to get them changed out early next week.

I love cars...

CarlC

04-15-2010, 07:50 PM

Oh yeah. Much better now than later.

What outboard bearing is used in your housing? If it is an axle-mounted design (i.e. Torino) with an outer ring slip fit oil can seep around the ring. A little silicone RTV is a good fix.

James OLC

04-16-2010, 06:07 AM

Yes Carl - they are Torino style. Rotors are coming off today and we'll check them out. We'll have a spare set with us for the race just in case so we might change them, start fresh, and carry the old ones as emergency backups.

BuddyP

04-16-2010, 09:33 AM

Finaminal! Makes mine look worthless... Hope to see it up close on your way through from Nelson to South Bend!

James OLC

04-16-2010, 07:48 PM

Finaminal! Makes mine look worthless... Hope to see it up close on your way through from Nelson to South Bend!

Be sure to come say hi Buddy! We look forward to meeting some of the ProTouring crew in the Northeast when we're there.

Well the shock is on it's way to Penske - hopefully it gets turned around early next week. Upon closer inspection the nick in the line doesn't appear to be the problem... rather the AN fitting has cracked and failed. Regardless, glad it happened before we were on the road.

James OLC

04-16-2010, 08:54 PM

it's a start...

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/04/hitch20dev-1.jpg

Another Pozzi original based on the factory design.

James OLC

04-16-2010, 09:32 PM

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/04/hitch20low202-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/04/hitch20rear202-1.jpg

John Wright

04-17-2010, 03:03 AM

the AN fitting has cracked and failed. .
Did the spring or something hit that fitting to crack it?....just wondering due to the close quarters around those shocks.

BTW, the Hitch looks good for it's intended use.

David Pozzi

04-17-2010, 06:41 AM

The lip of the spring pocket hit the hose right at the fitting and that cracked the elbow, If the fitting were clocked a little over, or the spring pocket was notched a little, it would be fine. The other side is fine, but I'll do a little clearancing on both just to be sure.

The hitch isn't elegant or fancy but it works and I have a lot of other things yet to do. Still have to machine the front hubs for larger studs and put them on, plus get the trailer ready, and wire in a trailer plug and loads of other stuff. I think a square tube hitch frame coming off each rear frame rail, with a bolt on tab to the lower pan could be a better looking system and it could be made with a plug in for the ball. This version will weigh less though and it's only a one-time use, then it's off the car.

John Wright

04-17-2010, 07:53 AM

I can't imagine that the trailer weighs very much, even loaded with tools and such....what you came up with looks like it will work for it's intended purpose.

James OLC

04-17-2010, 09:42 PM

David finished up the hitch today - welded, painted, and ready to go:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/04/hitch20final201JPG-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/04/hitch20final202JPG-1.jpg

Trailer should be back from the paint shop on Wednesday.

bonecrrusher

04-18-2010, 05:49 AM

Thats one sexy ass.... hahaha!

buickfunnycar.com

04-18-2010, 07:02 AM

Stopped by the Pozzi's yesterday James.hitch looked real good.
Dave had to keep himself from over-building this one as usual,lol...little trailer won't require much,looks like it'll work just fine.

Wrap looks great too...:1st:

Krazed

04-18-2010, 07:27 AM

"Stick, you BITCH!!!!!" Sounds like something Mary says when driving Cars during an auto cross........... :drive1:

Love it! I bet hardly anyone will get that driving behind you. :rotfl:

ryeguy2006a

04-18-2010, 07:38 AM

Nice car!! Do you have build pictures from the beginning?

Gitter Dun

04-18-2010, 10:19 AM

Junior Johnson didn't need a trailor hitch to haul his moonshine.....Dam small a$$ Camaro trunks!!:hammer:.

69fbodyproject

04-18-2010, 04:08 PM

Nice car. Looks really good. Where in Calgary are you out of? Im in Red Deer.

David Pozzi

04-20-2010, 11:18 AM

Got the new studs for the front hubs today.

Yesterday I picked up the freshly painted traile, finished/tested the wiring in the trailer plug, it's inside the trunk and we'll just close the lid on the pigtail, it's a flat strip of 4 wires so it shouldn't get damaged. Need to tape things up and finish it today.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
Got the rear axle bearings sealed better, a few drops of oil were seeping past the O ring seals on the bearing OD.

Here's a pic of my old spare tire from my 67 Camaro, a Laredo 7.35 - 14 next to the Michelen Pilot 335-18, notice any difference?

MrQuick

04-20-2010, 11:35 AM

be kinda a cool to see an adjustable rear spoiler on that trailer.

vince

David Pozzi

04-20-2010, 11:36 AM

I just happen to have a wing! :)

James OLC

04-20-2010, 11:40 AM

FOCUS!

lol

10 days 1 hour 20 minutes

Trailer (with car and trailer inside of it... finished...) leaves in 3 days!

sik68

04-20-2010, 11:50 AM

FOCUS!

lol

10 days 1 hour 20 minutes

Trailer (with car and trailer inside of it... finished...) leaves in 3 days!

You're not driving it to the event?! Geez what a trailer queen! :razz:

Good luck and thank you for representing the pro-touring hobby. This will be like rooting for Country in the Olympics.

James OLC

04-20-2010, 12:12 PM

You're not driving it to the event?! Geez what a trailer queen! :razz:

Good luck and thank you for representing the pro-touring hobby. This will be like rooting for Country in the Olympics.

There was some (very brief) discussion about doing that at one point but tacking an additional 5,200 miles (and 8 days) of driving just wasn't going to happen. Plus, as the always very logical Steve'O pointed out to me at one point "prepare the car to race... then go race". Sage advice.

We're going to do our best to represent! We're still the oldest car entered at this point!

98ssnova

04-20-2010, 12:56 PM

David Pozzi Here's a pic of my old spare tire from my 67 Camaro, a Laredo 7.35 - 14 next to the Michelen Pilot 335-18, notice any difference?

Dave it looks like you could make a set of the Laredo tire's out of the one Michelen

James OLC

04-22-2010, 06:55 PM

What a difference some fresh paint and a tune up makes...

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/04/trailer20newJPG-1.jpg

David will fill it up tomorrow and see how much room our spares and tools up. Then... the moment of truth... the test drive!

James OLC

04-22-2010, 07:15 PM

but as time gets tight - the car hits the highway Saturday - small things are sure to crop up. Lesson learned - the new hubs aren't a direct replacement for the stockers in the ATS spindles. ATS had altered the hubs to use a stud with a nut on it and the material thickness of the SKF hubs is slightly different and the swap isn'r as straight forward as you would hope...

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/04/hub201-1.jpg

David took a shot at increasing the clearance but there are still issues...

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/04/hub202-1.jpg

...so we'll have to set these aside for now and change them out after the race. I've got a spare set of ATS spindles in the garage so I'll pop a hub out and we'll bring it with us as a spare instead.

BuddyP

04-22-2010, 07:27 PM

Good luck guys! Hope your able to drop me a line on your way through from Nelson Ledges back to South bend. I emailed you my info a little while back.

James OLC

04-22-2010, 08:22 PM

Hopefully we have the balance of our spares in tomorrow... Kinsler has sent us a fuel pump which arrived today, as did another set of tires and (thankfully) our shock. AWESOME customer service from Penske!

Tomorrow we're expecting our Raybestos R43 pads which we'll carry as backups (on the other side of the customer service fence are the AP reps in California - after a month and a half of email and phone messages I wound up calling England to get help. As soon as the OLoA is over I think that there will be a change coming there) and some more bits and pieces.

Currie Enterprises also sent us a care package....

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/04/Currie202JPG-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/04/Currie201JPG-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/04/Currie203JPG-1.jpg

James OLC

04-22-2010, 08:24 PM

Good luck guys! Hope your able to drop me a line on your way through from Nelson Ledges back to South bend. I emailed you my info a little while back.

Thanks Buddy - we got it and will be in touch!

John Wright

04-23-2010, 04:23 AM

Save that box and make it your carry case for that third member....nice stuff!

Fast68back

04-23-2010, 05:33 AM

Wore my OLC t-shirt to work today! Good luck guys.

bulldog19

04-23-2010, 06:06 AM

Good luck Guys. Can't wait to see the action in Jersey. James i sent you my contact info. Let me know if you need anything or did not get it.

Steve1968LS2

04-23-2010, 06:40 AM

Glad Currie came through for you.. good guys over there!

Sorry about the SKS hubs.. they do directly swap over on GM spindles, who woulda thunk!

Souds like you're as ready as possible.. we're all pullin for ya!

Magntik

04-23-2010, 10:17 AM

Wow looking like your almost ready.

Any way of finding out about time you guys might pull thru certain areas or the exact route you'll be taking?

I sent my contact info, I'm in Cedar Rapids, Iowa. Looks like you'll becoming right through here, I hope you don't need us, but some family and buddies would like to set up and watch you guys cruise thru, the rest of the offer was in the email I sent.

Jeremy

killer69

04-23-2010, 02:23 PM

James i sent David a PM but what about a Jetnut or ARP 12 point they have very small od dimensions???

James OLC

04-23-2010, 05:13 PM

James i sent David a PM but what about a Jetnut or ARP 12 point they have very small od dimensions???

That's what we are thinking Blake but we are just plain out of time right now. By the time the sun sets in sunny California tonight the OPTIMA Batteries OneLapCamaro should be loaded in the trailer and will head to South Bend tomorrow.

Thanks to everybody for their support.

I'll post up an event schedule tomorrow as well as route maps and track maps.

fishtail8

04-23-2010, 05:28 PM

From a fellow Albertan, and Canadian, good luck! Represent the pro-touring community and the frozen north! Put a maple leaf on that sucker somewhere!

Steve1968LS2

04-23-2010, 07:27 PM

From a fellow Albertan, and Canadian, good luck! Represent the pro-touring community and the frozen north! Put a maple leaf on that sucker somewhere!

Hell, his Camaro has been in the US so long it more American than Obama.. ;)

6'9"Witha69

04-23-2010, 07:28 PM

Hell, his Camaro has been in the US so long it more American than Obama.. ;)
:lmao:

CarlC

04-23-2010, 09:20 PM

Now that's funny right there!

Funny about the SKF parts. Is there a registering problem as well?

fishtail8

04-24-2010, 06:05 AM

Hell, his Camaro has been in the US so long it more American than Obama.. ;)

:lmao: I can't argue that point!

Steve1968LS2

04-24-2010, 07:17 AM

Hey James, I will be at Turn Key on Monday and I will grab up thoses extra sensors and a coil pack.

Is your engine 24x or 58x reluctor?

James OLC

04-24-2010, 07:20 AM

Hey... in all fairness, my Camaro was born in the US :)

We didn't get that far Carl - David saw the modification and focused on that right off the bat. I don't think that there is, it seems like is just a casting difference that wouldn't even be noticable if the hub mounted to the ATS spindle the same way it does to the 'Vette spindle. We'll sort it out once we're back and we feel like working the car again... maybe in the summer.

The LS7 is a 58x reluctor - thanks Steve

David Pozzi

04-24-2010, 12:09 PM

Waiting for the truck to get here!
I have a huge pile of spares and stuff, hope we get it all in the trailer. I test drove the trailer last night and it's great! I did notice I had to push fairly hard on the brake pedal to stop though. Trailer weighs 410 lbs, plus whatever the gear weighs. Probably another 400 lbs, so I'd guess we are towing 800 lbs total.
Mary "got" the trailer with a stick you bitch sticker.

Running RTTC and Del Mar took a couple of weeks of prep out of our month, this put us behind, but I wouldn't have traded the fun we had at those two events...
David

David Pozzi

04-24-2010, 12:13 PM

James, don't forget to bring rain gear., and waterproof shoes.

It'd be nice to put American and Canadian flag stickers somewhere on the car.
David

6'9"Witha69

04-24-2010, 12:15 PM

James, don't forget to bring rain gear., and waterproof shoes.

It'd be nice to put American and Canadian flag stickers somewhere on the car.
David
Quarter windows. Remember, the US flag is always field leading (toward the front of the vehicle). So a standard US on the Driver's side and Canadian on the pass side would work perfectly.

David Pozzi

04-24-2010, 05:05 PM

OLC is loaded and on it's way!
Now, what did I forget???:hmm:

Steve1968LS2

04-24-2010, 05:29 PM

OLC is loaded and on it's way!
Now, what did I forget???:hmm:

Muffler fluid?

55chevyman

04-24-2010, 06:18 PM

Muffler fluid?

prob. a few quarts low on brake light fluid to!

James OLC

04-24-2010, 07:20 PM

prob. a few quarts low on brake light fluid to!

no - we're good there - David bled them last night :)

James OLC

04-24-2010, 07:43 PM

Well the preparations are done and the OPTIMA Batteries OneLapCamaro is on it's way to South Bend, Indiana. David put in a huge week and I think we can safely say that we are as prepared as we can be at this point. After fabbing up the trailer hitch and taking car of the routine maintenance - change the oil, bleed the brakes, etc. - David aligned the car one last time and tweaked the corner weights before going over the car with a fine tooth comb. A couple of small issues came up but nothing major - we've gone too far to let anything slow us up at this point. The last thing to do before packing up was a final test drive...

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/04/olc20wi20trailer-1.jpg

Thankfully, no issues and we're on our way!

MrQuick

04-24-2010, 07:47 PM

OLC is loaded and on it's way!
Now, what did I forget???:hmm:
ahhhh you? aren't you going too??
LOL

vince

CamaroAJ

04-24-2010, 07:54 PM

ahhhh you? aren't you going too??
LOL

vince

lol i was thinking that eariler but didn't want to be "that guy":enguard:

James OLC

04-24-2010, 07:59 PM

David is flying down Wednesday and I'm flying down on Thursday. It's four days and 2,300 miles from Monterey to South Bend and that was just too much to ask of our already frazzled nerves. Thankfully David has a friend who has a hauler who is taking it down for us.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/04/OLC20loadingJPG-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/04/OLC20LOADEDJPG-1.jpg

James OLC

04-24-2010, 09:33 PM

Here is the actual route map...

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/04/201020One20Lap20Route-1.jpg

Link to the details here: 2010 One Lap of America Route (http://maps.google.com/maps?f=d&source=embed&saddr=7101+Vorden+Pkwy+South+Bend,+IN+46628&daddr=To:+N7390+Highway+67,+Elkhart+Lake,+WI+53020 +(Road+America+Inc.)+to:19340+Jesup+Ave,+Pacific+J unction,+IA+51561+(Mid+America+Motor+Plex)+to:5990 1+E.+55+Road,+Jennings+OK+74038+(Hallett+Motor+Rac ing+Circuit)+to:3101+N.+Garnett+Tulsa+OK+(Tulsa+Ra ceway+Park)+to:700+Raceway+Blvd.+Madison,+IL+62060 +(Gateway+International+Raceway)+to:7721+Steam+Cor ners+Rd+44904+(Mid+Ohio)+to:40.002372,-81.584473+to:I-79+S+to:8000+Dividing+Creek+Rd+Millville,+NJ+08332 +(New+Jersey+Motorsports+Park)+to:10342+State+Rout e+305+Garrettsville,+OH.+44231+(Nelson+Ledges)+to: 7101+Vorden+Pkwy+South+Bend,+IN+46628&geocode=FfayfAIdTGPa-ilrdwQubC4RiDELG9JM6krefw%3BFYJpnAIdiGfB-iE_xKyPvHCkvg%3BFbnpcQIdKf5J-il9A8OgeHyUhzHBOQsnXbYTXw%3BFTcvKAIdyxU_-ilL7KY5OTGxhzFjSm7dnAEutA%3BFdZVKAIdpm5J-ikXDTZ-0fO2hzGXkBuMmFxTXA%3BFWuqTQId56ag-imRHkfFSK3YhzGr6rO0ACvicQ%3BFT69bAIdoAUT-yk1MRpPhr45iDGkTWYu_qxprQ%3B%3BFX4ZXAIdWpw7-w%3BFfCVWAIdJcWG-ymf-p8oBzbHiTGThZbZutJkhA%3BFQpXdgIdscsr-yllT-v9wWgxiDG4HtuGdPQ1Ig%3BFfayfAIdTGPa-ilrdwQubC4RiDELG9JM6krefw&hl=en&mra=dpe&mrcr=6&mrsp=7&sz=8&via=7,8&sll=39.83385,-81.309814&sspn=3.125494,4.246216&ie=UTF8&ll=40.245992,-86.396484&spn=21.858375,25.136719&z=5)

I've also mapped up the individual daily stages with events and distances. I don't know if I should post them here or create another thread... (?)

You can see the individual routes here (http://onelapcamaro.blogspot.com/2010/04/optima-batteries-onelapcamaro-route.html)for the time being.

CamaroAJ

04-25-2010, 05:41 AM

just a heads up on nelson ledges track, here are my comments on driving Nelson.

First, the surface of the track is sucks. There are patches, loose asphalt, potholes, and bumps all over. Grip also changes depending on the part of track you are on. But unless you know the cars limit and are keeping it there it's not that big of a deal.

I am using the corner numbers from this map:
http://www.nelsonledges.com/pdfs/nelsonTrackMap.pdf

T1 - standard high speed corner. Compare it to T1 at Mid Ohio, but narrower.. the fast line is far left down the front straght and make your turn in late. there is a pavement change just before the turn and thats where you want to make your turn in. Just be careful to not blow the exit and go too wide, you will regret it.

T2 - far left (stay in the outside line from T1) to tight inside, this is a faster turn than your mind lets you think.

T3 - fast here and stay close to the inside burm.

T4/T5 (Oak Tree) - becareful through this turn as it consists of different types of pavement and there is a pavement change just before your out of the turn that unsettles the car and can cause a spin if your trying to get on it too hard at the mid to end part of T5. Brake, find the right spot during testing and stick to it. You will feel like you have to brake a lot more than you NEED to. It's an increasing radius corner to 5, so you can carry a ton of speed through it. Brake on the right side of the track and then STAY LEFT, double apex between 4 and 5. There's no point to go all the way out to the right side through here.

T6 - You should be mid-track going into/around T6.

T7/T8/T9 (Carousel) - keep mid-track untill somewhere around the middle end of T7 then cut down to the right side of the track then let the car drift back to the top 3/4 of the track just after T8. pretty much just doing a double apex of T7/T8 so you have a straighter line for T9. T9 you will see the track has a sharp angle on the inside of the turn, this is where you want to hit with your right side of the car then angle to the far left and hit the outside of the track with your left side of the car, there is a pavement change here too that was a good marker point to aim for.

T10 - mid track. drift to the left side before T11.
depending on your exit of T9 this should be about the fastest part of the track, in the stock C5Z i had this was about 130 if i had a good exit and about 126 if i had a bad exit. you should be faster as that car was only 385hp flywheel and on hard street tires.

T11 (the Kink) - this turn can be done alot of ways, i found it best to be far left going into this turn and mid-track out of the turn. there is a huge dip just after the turn that wouldn't bottom out my suspension but did cause bad scraping of the air dams.

T12 - Line up to the right, find your right braking depth and DON'T brake too much! there is a hump in the middle of the brake zone that will cause wheel lock up if your on them too hard and screw you for the turn. brake just before it and let your foot lighten up on the brake as you go over the hump then back on the brakes on the down side. You can carry a ton of speed through here. Brake, turn, and get on the throttle to zip to the braking zone of T13.

T13 - from the apex of T12 look straight across the street into T13, there is a power line pole, aim the car at that pole to set up for T13. This is pretty much a throw away corner. Just don't enter it too fast. There's no need to go to the outside of it at all until you exit on the front straight. The challenge here is making the transition from turning/accelerating from T12 to straight line braking for 13. It needs to be all one smooth move to be fast.

Front straight - STAY LEFT, cars coming in from the pits on the right.

you will need to modify based on your driving and the car but this should get you a good baseline to start from.

James OLC

04-25-2010, 08:52 AM

Thanks AJ - that is awesome feedback! David and I have been reviewing track maps, watching video and reading other peoples notes but it's especially nice when those notes come from someone you know. On the off chance that there are some other people with track familiarity I'm going to kick off a new post with the entire route and track maps. Maybe we have a bit of a track brainstorming session...

By the way, one of the reasons that Nelson Ledges was included in the schedule was exactly what you comment on - it's not a great surface and will actually reward cars that are a little bit softer sprung than the more 'racey' entries. Brock Yates is renounded for adding venues that are a little bit more challenging. One year there was a dirt oval stop, most years there is an oval track of some kind, and it's always possible to have an autocross or other venue thrown in at the last minute.

By