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View Full Version : Later Model Factory AC in 72 Cutlass



outlaw 03
02-10-2010, 08:05 PM
Has anyone tried to put an AC system out of a late 90s front wheel drive Regal, Cutlass etc. in a 70-72 A-Body?

outlaw 03
02-18-2010, 08:55 AM
Anyone Any info???

FULMNTE
02-18-2010, 02:00 PM
Why bother if you can buy aftermarket factory fit systems?

jaybee
02-18-2010, 06:40 PM
Why bother if you can buy aftermarket factory fit systems?

Save a few $$? The pride of saying you did it yourself? Desire for something unique?

I do know that I pulled the unit out of a 91 Lumina and it's WAY too big to fit under the dash of my 57 Chevy.

outlaw 03
02-18-2010, 09:59 PM
Why bother if you can buy aftermarket factory fit systems?

What jaybee said and I have access to a complete 98 Buick.

jaybee their that big???

FULMNTE
02-19-2010, 07:01 AM
After restoring a factory AC in one and installing an aftermarket AC in another A-Body, I could not imagine what a nightmare a custom system would be.

For starters, how will you adapt the controls? The A-Bodies had cable controls. Are you willing to hack the dash to install the 98 controls?
You would also likely need custom brackets for the A/C compressor and the condenser. Not to mention how to adapt all the ductwork? Figuring out the electrical hookup might also take a while...
All this beside of the fact that the whole unit might not even fit under the dash/in the engine compartment...

Twentyover
02-19-2010, 10:45 PM
No technical reason it can't be done. Usually the largest problem is geometry of the existing envirornment.

Most probably the Buick unit is a single polypropylene housing containing all components and plenums. This is a situation where you may need to look at separating functional elements of the system (Blower, Evap, and heater core/mix plenum/control doors & surfaces) into pieces that fit the existing geometry. Connect the dots w/sheet metal and fiberglass. You'll need to get creative, since the unit will be probably 3 times the volume of of an aftermarket unit. It may look like hell, but that's why you stick it under dash. Essentially, you are trading money (savings over an aftermarket unit) for convienience. The aftermarket pieces are small, since they aren't being custom fit into available space and need to fit a variety of envirornments.

You may spend as much as you save in adapting fittings to plumb the unit, particularly the A/C lines.

Controls can be approached a couple ways. I'm assuming the unit uses either vacuum or actuator motors to control door position. First, can the modern control head be cleanly integrated to the instrument panel you're using? If not, and it was me, with doors on the modern unit operated with vacuum motors or cables, I'd probably take a look at servo or pulse count motors used in RC models (sorry for the poor sentence construction- It's 3am and I'm too tired to fall asleep). You have an advantage, you can eliminate the recirc door and either choose to duct in 100% outside air or 100% recirc (and have the evap capacity to support either decision). Ducting can be as simple as convo tubing or fiberglass resin used to seal carbboard and duct tape together

As far as the compressor- I went to RockAuto and looked at all the Buicks there - looks like all engines use the V5 pump. I'll be honest, IMO you may want to go elsewhere for the compressor.

Is this going to be simple? No. I've seen it done a couple times (most notably a late 80's Thunderbird HVAC into a Triumph TR7), with good sucess. It depends on how much time you're willing to invest to save a buck. What are the rewards? While others here have called me out on the next point, you should see better performance. Airflow should be 30-50 better than an aftermarket units, evap capacity and heater capacity in the range of 7 kW each, and with larger face areas.

To me, the most significant advantage is that you end up using a series/reheat system that uses true reheat any time you come off full cold, rather than using an evap control strategy that yields significant (IMO) vent temperature swings (this is a consistent complaint i've have about most aftermarket HVAC systems systems I've owned or been exposed to. While I do not KNOW the temp control strategy of the aftermarket A/C system i run in the Camaro (purported by many to be one of the most advanced aftermarket systems), I do know that it exhibits the same temperature variation I've seen on other systems using variable compressor on temp to control vent temp.)

jaybee
02-21-2010, 01:30 PM
Outlaw 03, I have mine for the same reason that you're considering this...I was about to junk a Lumina and decided to save everything that could be of use later. Yes, the unit is VERY large front to rear. I can get that measurement if you want it, it's something like 16-17". Twentyover pegged the reason, it's actually 3 modules that are fastened stacked front to rear. Against the firewall is the fan/recirc door assembly, which feeds the evaporator from the end. It could probably be cut apart from the evap if it helped with packaging. The heater core mounts to the rear of the evaporator housing. Above and behind that is the piece that holds all the control doors, other than the recirc/fresh door that sits on the blower housing.

Control is by pushbuttons on the dash, but they mostly run vacuum solenoids. The temp slider runs a servomotor, which is the wild card in getting it all to function. Aside from temp control I've already figured out how to mount switches on my stock heater controls to run everything through the stock vacuum solenoids.

I haven't completely ruled out trying to do this, and once again for the reason Twentyover suggested. I'm doing a 57 Chevy 2 door wagon and it's going to require a lot of cooling in a hot Iowa Summer. No kidding, budget is also a factor. My time is my own, I"m not building this car planning resale, and it's a model that will never command the value of a Camaro or Cuda, or even a 57 HT or convertible.

outlaw 03
02-24-2010, 07:58 AM
Thanks for the responses. This is what I'm looking for good ideas for overcoming problems. I'm putting a 2003 6.0 liter in the Cutlass so "creative" engineering is part of the fun and "Factory" resto is FAR from my plan. I'm thinking of running a compressor of a 4.3 v6. That style bracket helps overcome some clearance issues with the frame and 6.0 liter compressor. Please keep the ideas flowing.

spoilersbyrandy
02-26-2010, 09:11 AM
outlaw 03, here is my low buck A/C in my 70 El Camino. I replace the whole system with later model parts. Replaced evaporator,condensor, all hoses and lines, compressor. Cost me about $150.00 I can give you more details if you want. Randy

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/myElCamino001sm-1.jpg

outlaw 03
03-03-2010, 05:06 PM
outlaw 03, here is my low buck A/C in my 70 El Camino. I replace the whole system with later model parts. Replaced evaporator,condensor, all hoses and lines, compressor. Cost me about $150.00 I can give you more details if you want. Randy

I like your setup kind of what I had in mind but I'm wanting to use an under the dash unit out of a FWD car. What controls did you use?

spoilersbyrandy
03-04-2010, 04:25 PM
I like your setup kind of what I had in mind but I'm wanting to use an under the dash unit out of a FWD car. What controls did you use?
It still uses the factory controls.

outlaw 03
03-07-2010, 02:15 PM
It still uses the factory controls. what under dash stuff are you using

Twentyover
03-07-2010, 03:14 PM
Probably still factory. looks like he replaced the factory system (think it was a TXV/POA system if memory serves correctly) w/ a CCOT system as used in late 70 systems and later. Uses the same heat exchangers and ducts

spoilersbyrandy
03-08-2010, 06:31 AM
what under dash stuff are you using
Everything inside is still factory A/c 70 El Camino. I just replace all under the hood stuff.

outlaw 03
03-09-2010, 08:23 PM
Everything inside is still factory A/c 70 El Camino. I just replace all under the hood stuff.

Oh OK the under dash stuff is what I'm worried about. My car is non-AC car so I have nothing. I had to remove the out side heater box to clear the LS 6.0. I'll have to just "tear" into the FWD donor car and see what happens. Thanks for the input & I look forward to any other info I can get.