67 Fastback - Project Dalamar

[Dalamar]

Greetings Pro-Tourning.com
I was turned on to your site by a guy on a local mustang forum, and I've been lurking for a few weeks and am impressed.
Plenty of build threads, and I like the atmosphere.

I wanted to post up my build thread because it is 100% pro touring by definition. Hope you like it, and hope to get some pointers along
the way as this is my first full out custom build.


My name is Jeff, and my dad (Nick) and I are doing this build together.
It started about 7 years ago.
We wanted to build a car for a while but hadn't decided on what. After seeing Eleanor, we decdied
we could do something like that. This was before Shelby and others started making turnkey's.
The car sat for about 5 years, and we've been working on it, on and off for the last 3 years.

We found the car locally and it had been sitting on a trailer for over 10 years, with the windows down a few inches uncovered....:hand:
The body was in pretty good shape, but the interior was pretty rotted.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/stockside-1.jpg

The car was built a GT - 289, made in california in 67 - obv.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/stockback-1.jpg
We definately want to keep the trailer hitch :idea:

Stripped it down and had it Plastic Media blasted.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/blastedbackside-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/01/blastedfrontside-1.jpg

[CruizinKev]

nice project Jeff! keep up good work! :twothumbs :)

[Restomod]

Nice FB but if its a real GT dont do anything that cant be changed back.

[hivewax]

IM-humble-O, I see the Eleanor body going out of style if not now, then pretty soon. I'd go for a Trans-Am racing look.

[Restomod]

No offence but I think Eleanor is not going it has been over for a while in my .02........

[Fast68back]

Sweet, another Mustang! Keep the pictures coming.

[aussiebj]

keep the stangs comming ...post up pics as you go..looks like a great starting point ...you have a blank canvas to work from....cant wait to see the progress on this one

[gearbanger]

No more eleanores!

[Runningriot]

I think the Bullitt fastback is a much meaner looking car then Eleanor but thats just my opinion.

If you do go the Eleanor route, I'd suggest doing something different then the typical silver/pewter color.

And yes, keep those pictures coming! Great to see another mustang!!

[tintman]

Hey this is Jake from utahstangs. Glad to see you made it over here.

[T_Raven]

I still love the Eleanor look. Though I think they look better black with a silver stripe. But whatever you do with it, I'm sure it'll be cool.

[Dalamar]

Wow, thanks for all the responses. I have a lot more to update.
We're not doing the Eleanor... Decided that shortly after they started being sold as turn key kits.
The eleanor can be a nice looking setup, but I prefer something a little cleaner looking.
Let me get some more in here!

[Dalamar]

The floor wasn't too bad, especially after looking at how much rust I've seen on other builds.


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/passfloor-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/driverfloor-1.jpg



We DEFINATELY wanted this car to ride and handle well. So it's out with the old suspension.
We picked up the front suspension kit from Rod & Custom Motorsports with the 2" spindle drop.


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/frontend2-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/frontend1-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/Kmem-1.jpg

[Dalamar]

The first part that went on the car was the new K member.
We removed all the front end parts and cut out the towers.
Leveled and checked the frame, and welded in the new K.

I was glad to find out that the frame is strait, we checked it & it's right on.

Here's some pix.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/stockbay1-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/stockbay2-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/towercut-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/towercut2-1.jpg

[Dalamar]

Next we made a rotissery.

The body is so light, this isn't real heavy duty, just 3" channel, and some hot welds.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/channelpile-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/piguprights-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/frontpig-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/rearpig-1.jpg

I don't have the tool to remove the column from the gearbox, so
a sawzall did the trick.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/columncut-1.jpg

Up she goes.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/pigfrontup-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/rearend-1.jpg


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/pigup-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/pigtop-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/pigbottom-1.jpg

It has been invaluably helpful!

[Dalamar]

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/frontupbrackets-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/FCassemble1-1.jpg

[Wicked]

I like that front suspension. I've been looking for a project car and have been steering away from the small engine bays of the mid 60's Fords since my goal is a twin turbo LSX motor. This kinda opens up my options a little.

[Dalamar]

Now for some info on the motor.
Back before we got into the suspension work, I got a 2 barrel 351 Cleveland. It came out of a 72 Toreno.
A lot of guys swear by the 4 barrel Cleveland's, but I think the 2 barrel is better for a street car.
Mainly becuse it has a better low end torque curve, and wont' suck as much gas on the top end.

It was worn & dirty, but I got it for 300 bucks :)

Here's some pictures from the tear down:


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/engineblockdiscylinder-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/engineblockdisheads-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/engineblockdiscrankin-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/engineblockdistimingcha-1.jpg

[Dalamar]

I like that front suspension. I've been looking for a project car and have been steering away from the small engine bays of the mid 60's Fords since my goal is a twin turbo LSX motor. This kinda opens up my options a little.

Taking the towers out really opens it up.
I'll get some pics with the motor in there, further in this update.

[monteboy84]

Very nice project, can't wait to see how it turns out for you, looks great so far.

[Dalamar]

Here's the specs on the motor build:

bored .030 over, forged pistons - 10.8:1 compression
Crank and rods balanced, new bolts & bearings.

FM cam CS 173R medium overlap, good power range.

I ported the exhaust side of the heads to match the hedder ID.
had the heads rebuilt with all new parts, SS valves & a Crane roller rocker conversion.

ARP bolt kit
Edelbrock rpm manifold.


We thought about adding a small centrifigal blower and running a MDS with their boost timing retard moduel....
But, there's too many unknows so we decided not to go that rought.


Here's all the parts before assembly:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/351Cpartsspread-1.jpg

[joemac]

That timing chain didn't have any slack in it did it? You should go with a set of CHI 3v heads.

The front suspension work is really nice, really opens the engine bay up without those towers.

[Dalamar]

After assembly:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/Heddersroll-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/bottom04-1.jpg


I spent way too much time polishing the intake manifold.
The hedders are Hooker long tubes. Had them and the IM Hot Jet Coated.


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/heddersrollers-1.jpg


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/WPoff-1.jpg


I wasn't liking the look of the stock cast WP, so I got the Weiland polished, high flow unit, and swapped it.
I also had to swap the oil pan to a rear sump style to fit the K on the suspension.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/cantonpickup-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/cantonon-1.jpg

[joemac]

Nice, looks great.

[Dalamar]

Here we are setting the motor mounts.
Borrowed an R470 housing to help with the task.
We're going with a built R470W (4 speed)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/ETboltup-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/In1-1.jpg


Steering
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/infront-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/insteer-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/inside-1.jpg

[Dalamar]

Nice, looks great.


Thanks Joe.
-that chain was a Little slack... lol
After having built that motor, I found out about the Aussie heads.. and there are even better heads avaliable now.
Would have gone that route. But with these roller rockers and head work it should do pretty good.
We'll see how it performs.







Wicked - does this give you a better idea on the space?
The LS1 motor is probably a little wider though... not sure.


Here we are setting the motor mounts.


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/In1-1.jpg

[Dalamar]

I like this shot.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/assemble2-1.jpg

[Dalamar]

Chassis flex is a problem on these cars. so after looking at the stock "sub frame" rails, I decided to connect them in the floor.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/floorcut1-1.jpg
That's my Dad :)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/floorcut2-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/subfloorweldoff-1.jpg

Then I built this external subframe up to the K.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/subweld1-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/subfront-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/Subsweldoff-1.jpg

[elitecustombody]

looking good,keep up good work!

[Fast68back]

Would the motor not drop in without cutting the radiator support?

[joemac]

Nice fab work, I believe that is a 4r70w though. Just a wide ratio AODE to my knowledge. If you have not picked a converter yet check out dirtydogperformance.com

A lot of the early to mid '90s thunderbird guys use that company for their converters as they have the 4r70w.

In reference to the heads, I agree that the 2v should be better for street use as it should have better velocity during lower rpms. The ports on the 4v heads are huge.

[Dalamar]

Thanks eletecustombody





Would the motor not drop in without cutting the radiator support?
In our case, I was lifting off a beam on the celing, and with the car on the rotissary had to cut it for clearance. Simple to weld back in later.




Thank you for the suggestion on the convertor Jmac, we havn't built the trans yet. you are correct on the w - I have a built one in my 96 mustang.

[CruizinKev]

very nice work!!! :twothumbs

[Dalamar]

After that the car sat for a while while I did a bunch of work on my 96.


Next step was the rear suspension. I picked up an IRS from a local guy who swapped it out for a solid axle in his 03 Cobra (for drag racing)
The IRS is a nice riding piece. the stock bushings are too soft and can cause wheel hop and other issues, but that's all upgradable.


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/IRS1-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/IRS9-1.jpg



So, we picked up the MM rear grip box for this thing.
Maximum Motorsports makes a great product, and they are very through. I've used a lot of their pieces on my other car.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/MMirskit-1.jpg



Bushings installed, swaybar end links and bump steer.
It's interesting having bump steer on the back of the car!

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/IRS3-1.jpg

[Dalamar]

We set it in place and looked it over. It was a little high, so we started into cutting into the subframe and making the mounts.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/IRS17-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/IRS18-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/IRS19-1.jpg

[Dalamar]

Here's the front suspension bolted up.


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/IFS11-1.jpg


Shortly after that the front brakes arrived.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/B2-1.jpg


These Otta work!

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/B4-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/B7-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/B8-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/B9-1.jpg

[csx4766]

Hey I am interested in yor brake setup? Can you give me more details on the setup like part numbers. thanks!

[TGVettes]

what is the flange to flange dimension on the Cobra IRS?

Tonny

[Dalamar]

Hey I am interested in yor brake setup? Can you give me more details on the setup like part numbers. thanks!

Sorry I don't have the part numbers on hand.
I got it from Rod and Custom:
http://www.rcmotorsports.net/31Link.html (http://www.rcmotorsports.net/31Link.html)





what is the flange to flange dimension on the Cobra IRS?

Tonny
What do you mean Tonny?
the rear flang is wider than the front, side-to-side.

[Dalamar]

Got the front button'd up

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/IFS16-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/IFS17-1.jpg

[CruizinKev]

wow nice progress :drool:

[Dalamar]

Next thing we did on the IRS was cut out the sub frame to get it closer to where it needs to sit.

we also made the mounting brackets, and shaved them down as we went.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/IRS20cut-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/IRS21-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/IRS22-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/IRS23-1.jpg

[Dalamar]

Checking wheel clearance :)


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/IRS24-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/IRS25-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/IRS27-1.jpg

[Dalamar]

once we figured the "height" and position, more cutting and welding.


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/IRS32-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/IRS33-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/IRS34-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/IRS35-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/IRS36-1.jpg

[Dalamar]

And, here's the back subframe/mount:


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/IRS37-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/IRS38-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/IRS39-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/IRS40-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/IRS41-1.jpg

[Dalamar]

After a few more nights:


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/IRS46-1.jpg



you can see here where they probably ran air shocks on this car. some of the cracks had already been welded.
and below that, my crappy weld where I didn't clean out the gap very good.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/IRS42-1.jpg



https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/IRS43-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/IRS44-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/IRS45-1.jpg

[CptKlutz]

Just read through the thread, nice! Keep it coming. :kewlpics:

[TGVettes]

Jeff
What I was asking was how wide the IRS rear end is from side to side
(where the wheels mount) most rears on pony cars are around 60 inches wide.

[Dalamar]

Just read through the thread, nice! Keep it coming. :kewlpics:

Thank you. Will do I've got a bit more to catch up to where we are.
The picture in your sig - love the paint/stance. Is that how your car sits?





Jeff
What I was asking was how wide the IRS rear end is from side to side
(where the wheels mount) most rears on pony cars are around 60 inches wide.
Gotcha - measuring between the rotor hats it is: 62 7/16"

[DYNODANNY]

That rear suspention set up looks like it's going to work out fine. Your car is really going to handle good. Keep upthe good work.

[jackfrost]

great project! it looks like you guys know what you're doing. thanks for posting.

[1970 TT Rustang]

looking good

[69stang]

Cool work. Got any shots of the interior side of your frame rail modifications. I'm not getting where the patch tubing ties in on the top side of the factory frame rails and how it replaces the strength of the removed sections.

[Dalamar]

Thank you all.



Cool work. Got any shots of the interior side of your frame rail modifications. I'm not getting where the patch tubing ties in on the top side of the factory frame rails and how it replaces the strength of the removed sections.

Yes, I'll show that in my progress here shortly.

[Dalamar]

Nest step was coil over's for this IRS. We like the adjustability, and
not having to make a huge perch for the stock spring is also good IMO.

Billisteen's with Maximum Motorsports coilovers
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/IRScoilovers-1.jpg


The placement for these required us to notch into the subframe, again, and also build a mount suitable to support the weight.
we measured it out and estimated the ride height compression, and it went like this:


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/RC3-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/RC4-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/RC6-1.jpg

The mounting piece is 3/16" wall and will be tied into the sub frame on the other side.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/RC8-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/RC9-1.jpg

[Dalamar]

Set the IRS back on to chech clearances

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/RC11-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/RC12-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/RC13-1.jpg

Removed and welded off.
Pounded out the well below the mount - to clear to the bushing/nut on the other side.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/RC15-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/RC17-1.jpg

[Dalamar]

Then I welded off all that stuff on the rear.
here's some more pix:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/weld-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/01/frontside-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/RC18-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/RC19-1.jpg

[Dalamar]

Here's how it looks on the inside where the subframe goes through there with the coil over mounts:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/RC21-1.jpg


INSIDE
(the tube show on the right of this picture - will continue on to the rear bumper support and stuff in the back.)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/RC20-1.jpg

OUTSIDE
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/RC22-1.jpg

[Dalamar]

Next thing we did was take the sub frame to the back, tied it into the bumper supports, and framed in the gas tank.


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/Trunk1-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/Trunk2-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/Trunk3-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/Trunk4-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/Trunk5-1.jpg

[Dalamar]

Cleaned it all up and put down seam sealer
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/RC23-1.jpg


Pour15 metal prep.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/RC26-1.jpg

brushed on Pour 15
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/RC27-1.jpg

3M undercoated.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/RC28-1.jpg

[Dalamar]

Put the IRS back on, and got all the bits installed.
Checked the clearance for the wheel/tire. here's some pix.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/T1-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/T2-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/T3-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/T5-1.jpg

I like these wheels/tires!
we're going to have to do something with the stock flair :)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/T4-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/T6-1.jpg

[montessaj]

Thats an awesome way to mock things up. Looks good man.

[CruizinKev]

awesome Jeff!

[SamHatco]

Excellent!! The progress is amazing. I take this happened over a longer period of time and you're catching us up on the build.

Sam

[aussiebj]

looks great keep moving along ..can not wait to see it on the ground

[69stang]

That clears it up. Not the way I think I would have done it but it works and looks good. Good job!

[vossperformance]

Great project

[Dalamar]

Thank you for the compliments everyone, I appreciate it.



Excellent!! The progress is amazing. I take this happened over a longer period of time and you're catching us up on the build.

Sam

Thank you.
Yes, this is our progress for the last 6 months on the IRS. and few years before that on the rest.

this next bit will catch this thread up to where we are.

[Dalamar]

Here's a few more shots of the IRS

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/RC30-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/RC31-1.jpg

Other side:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/T21-1.jpg

[Dalamar]

Next we stated figuring out the seat mounts.
Got these from a 97 Mustang, we will most likely be getting some nice after market seats,
but these will work for setting the mounts etc.

Cut out the stock risers and set them it to check the clearance of my head!


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/T11-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/T12-1.jpg

Head clearance was a lil tight for a 6' 5" guy like me.


Decided to lower the back and tip it a little.
tipping it is actually much more comfortable for me to sit in. Daddy likes :)

We set the front 1" above the floor, and the rear 3/8" below the stock floorpan lvl.
They're welded hot into the sub fram rails, and welded solid to the floorpan.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/T18-1.jpg

Here's the bottom:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/T20-1.jpg


also chopped 1/2" out of the rear seat mounting bracket

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/T13-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/T15-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/T17-1.jpg

[Dalamar]

We got the seat rails done, and were looking at the trans crossmember.
Measured out the headders, and the collector flange is right there, so we cut them down.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/T24-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/T25-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/T26-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/T28-1.jpg

[Dalamar]

And, here's what we did last week.

Pressed longer studs into the rear hubs.
Picked up a few needed bolts, and got the IRS all assembled with the exception of 2 that needed to be ordered from Ford...

The axle shafts are 31 spline, and the Dif ring is 373.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/T29-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/T30-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/T31-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/T32-1.jpg

[Dalamar]

Here's how she sits now :)


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/T34-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/T33-1.jpg

[showme]

Awesome build! I love the choices on the parts and the fabwork!
I just started watching this one ,but will continue!VERY NICE!

[jro183]

Nice. Keep up the good work.

[Dalamar]

Thank you both.



So, this is our build to date.
This is our first full build and I welcome any comments or suggestions from you builders here on pro-tourning.
Our aim is to do as much of this ourselves that we can.
Soon we'll be getting into the body/sheetmetal. I've done structural and thick sheetmetal work before, but havn't
done much with thinner curvy metal, so that will be interesting.

We will need to do something with the rear flares, either bring them out, or bring the whole rear quarter out.
Also want to extend all the side panels down a few inches to give the car a taller/lower appearance.
not sure what we want to do on the front.

It will be interesting to see how it evolves.

[Bryce]

awesome Jeff, just awesomness!

[482supersnake]

Looks like we have been working on some of the same projects on our cars. I also have a 67 fastback with custom front end and am installing a IRS rear just doing it a little differently. Great work and keepus posted. Scott

[bonecrrusher]

That IRS install is bad ass! I love it!

[Motown 454]

Nice work it looks great.

[Dalamar]

Thanks guys!






Looks like we have been working on some of the same projects on our cars. I also have a 67 fastback with custom front end and am installing a IRS rear just doing it a little differently. Great work and keepus posted. Scott

That's pretty cool! I'd love to see it, do you have a thread on it?

[Dalamar]

Had the front suspension parts painted:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/T9-1.jpg




Looks AWSOME assembled! :)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/T36-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/T37-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/T38-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/T40-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/T41-1.jpg

[Motown 454]

The parts look great.

[482supersnake]

No I haven't started a thread yet. Maybe I should with all the Mustangs on the front page right now maybe we take over for a day. Also do you plan on adding a torque box to the passenger side? It would help with body strength quite a bit. If you do, get the Dynacorn one I here they are easier to install. Scott
Edit here is a link to my project on another site
http://eleanorinspired1967mustangfastback.yuku.com/topic/1935
Scott

[Dalamar]

Now for the interior....
picked up this about a month ago.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/97chopper-1.jpg

the plan is: Putting all this..... in there.

(don't think the door panles will fit)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/SNinterior-1.jpg

[Dalamar]

here's what we did last night:


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/T42-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/T44-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/T43-1.jpg

[SamHatco]

Reminds me of when I put my 04 GTO dash in my 69 firebird. Good luck with the install. I know it will look cool.

Sam

[garner67]

We will need to do something with the rear flares, either bring them out, or bring the whole rear quarter out.
Also want to extend all the side panels down a few inches to give the car a taller/lower appearance.
not sure what we want to do on the front.

It will be interesting to see how it evolves.

Awesome build with lots of nice photo documentation.

For the rear quarters, my vote would be extending the whole rear quarter panel instead of adding fender flares.

Keep up the great work!

[hivewax]

I see something wrong here... a perfectly good late-model Mustang being torn apart!

[mustangmanic67]

I would add the passenger side torque box. It will strengthen the body greatly. I did so on my 67 coupe and I can now pick it up like its a nascar.

[Dalamar]

Reminds me of when I put my 04 GTO dash in my 69 firebird. Good luck with the install. I know it will look cool.

Sam
Thank you, I saw your build, the interior turned out awsome. nice work



Thanks Garner





I see something wrong here... a perfectly good late-model Mustang being torn apart!

The shell of a mustang, the car's been parted out.
or were you being funny?




I would add the passenger side torque box. It will strengthen the body greatly. I did so on my 67 coupe and I can now pick it up like its a nascar.

Thanks for the fedback.
Somebody else recommended that, I looked at it and don't realy see how it's necessary. is your rear suspension riding on leaf springs?

This car basically has a frame from the K member to the back, and the IRS has that pipe frame tying the sides together.
I could see a brace between the coilover mounts...
I know on the Fox and SN95 mustangs "torque box" reinfocements are mainly due to bind in the 4-link suspension
and or the wrong part or bushings that don't allow the upper arms to twist. Not really necessary if your suspension articulates as it's supposed to on those cars.

I do appreciate the feedback.
What do you all think?

[Dalamar]

I'd like to throw out a few more questions, so please post up!


1- should I use the SN95 mustang's heat/air system. or should I look at a vintage air unit?
I'm talking the air box behind the dash, not all the vent's and controls. not sure if a vintage unit would work with these controls.


2- Where can I find the piece that makes the side scoop an actual scoop?


3- Does anyone know who makes a good power window kit for this car?

[icebird84]

Excellent project

[Ripped]

looks like an exciting build. Impressive fab work.

Tony Branda may have the scoop which you are looking for.

There are a couple kits which convert the 67/8 to power windows. To make them work right, you will need to make up an assist spring

how are you going to handle the slightly wider track of the sn95 suspension?

Keep up the good work!

[pro-touringAK]

Awesome build. Autoworksracing.com has parts like the power windows and locks. You can also try Mustangdepot.com and mustangsplus.com. Most of these should have the scoop parts and also the others

[csx4766]

Nice build. What are the part numbers for the Wilwood brakes in front? Would 17" wheels work with the brake set up?

[Dalamar]

how are you going to handle the slightly wider track of the sn95 suspension?

Keep up the good work!

Thanks Ripped,
We'll probably move the rear quarter out.




Thanks pro-touringAK



Nice build. What are the part numbers for the Wilwood brakes in front? Would 17" wheels work with the brake set up?
Not sure the part numbers, I linked where I got them from earlier in this thread - from Rod and Custom Motorsports. you would need to get the correct brake brackets for your application.
I would think so, measureing from the center of the hub to the outside of the Calipers is 7"

[Dalamar]

We Fab'd up the aluminum fuel tank over the weekend.
Not to worry, my dad was ASME certified, and knows how to build stuff like this.
It's 24 gallons. :)

Here's some progress pics:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/T46-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/T47-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/T48-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/T49-1.jpg







https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/Trunk1-1.jpg

Test Fit

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/T51-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/T52-1.jpg


It will be out of sight, behind the body panels :)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/T53-1.jpg

[Motown 454]

Very Nice .

[CruizinKev]

wow nice :twothumbs

[Dalamar]

thank you.

Looking at how the exhaust will have to come through the middle/bottom of the irs, then turn and go around the front of the tank -
looks like we'll need to insluate it from the exhaust heat there. gotta figure out what to use for that. any ideas?



https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/T55-1.jpg

[dolf]

How about side exit exhaust. Dr gas makes a nice kit for it. Maybe integrate it into the body like the roush side exit?

[Bryce]

I would cut the tank in half and run center exit exhaust! Kinda late for that tho. But you did make a really nice tank. So that shouldnt be too hard for you.

[jackfrost]

I would cut the tank in half and run center exit exhaust! Kinda late for that tho. But you did make a really nice tank. So that shouldnt be too hard for you.

x2! or maybe just a channel under it?

nice project so far!

[Fast68back]

Are you mounting the filler neck on the sail panel? Very nice work, great looking welds.

[Dalamar]

How about side exit exhaust. Dr gas makes a nice kit for it. Maybe integrate it into the body like the roush side exit?

I like that suggestion!
Looking at tips, I think I'd go with the Saleen F150 tip.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/SSE-1.jpg

I'll have to kick this around.
I had side exhaust on my other mustang for a while, and you do get some soot on the body/wheel, it is louder comingout of the side,
it's kinda in your ear when you're crusing with the windows down.
there's also exhaust smell there when you're getting in and out....

looks bad ass though :)

[Dalamar]

thanks for the suggestions guys, I don't think we want to cut into this tank, mainly because it's welded inside and out.
be hard to weld it again on the inside without cutting the top out.



Are you mounting the filler neck on the sail panel? Very nice work, great looking welds.

Yes we're looking at a neck on the drivers side.

[Dalamar]

another of the tank:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/T56-1.jpg

[Dalamar]

Did some chopping yesterday!


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/T59-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/T60-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/T61-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/T62-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/T65-1.jpg

[Dalamar]

We also did a "test fit" of the dash :yum:


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/T67-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/T69-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/T70-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/T71-1.jpg


It was exciting to see it in there, I think it looks Great!

that is pretty close to where it will sit - we're going to trim it another 1/2 inch to get it as close as we can to the windshield
We've got some work ahead of us to get this firewall swapped!

[HotRod47]

Very nice progress so far. I can't wait to see how you mount the dash.

[724tim]

keep the good work up.:twothumbs

[CruizinKev]

yeah cool :twothumbs

[Dalamar]

Thank you :)






Still waiting on a few parts to get this thing on the ground.

messed around with the pedals tonight, turned out pretty good.
Stock pedal assembly from the SN had a clutch, and the Bullet gas and footrest. But we're going with an automatic. :)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/pedal1-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/pedal2-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/pedal3-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/pedal4-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/pedal5-1.jpg

[garner67]

An automatic trans?... what about one of those sweet T-56 trans from the Cobra?

[Dalamar]

Yep, built automatic :)

[78 Type-LT]

new pony meets old pony..i love it

[preston]

You are swapping the firewall primarily to facilitate the new dash ?
That seems like a lot of extra work just for the dash but I guess if you are using the new pedal assy as well. I would think you would want to stick with the late model airbox if you are using the dash vents and all - the vintage air stuff will not really be as nice as OEM and has no provision for fresh air, whereas the late model will have fresh air and recirc and A/C enabled defrost.

What is your plan for the gauges - custom panel that uses standard aftermarket gauges or are you going to attempt to integrate the OEM gauges ? Can you explain your approach here ?

A previous poster mentioned creating a return/assist spring for the power windows ? Can he come back and tell us what that means. I am running the Electric Life power windows in my '67 and they have been a good unit but I always felt they were a bit underpowered. I spent a lot of time getting my seals just right so the windows would easily go up all the way, if you have any friction at all the pw motor really struggles and won't always close easily. They seem to work okay now, but just curious if other people have had problems with the kit being a bit weak and if some kind of spring assist helps and how that might be fabbed up.

Yeah MustangsPlus or delta bay can source the fiberglass side scoops in functional brake duct or non-fucntional style.

I totally agree with clean not Eleanor look.

[Dalamar]

Thanks Dave :)





You are swapping the firewall primarily to facilitate the new dash ?
That seems like a lot of extra work just for the dash but I guess if you are using the new pedal assy as well. I would think you would want to stick with the late model airbox if you are using the dash vents and all - the vintage air stuff will not really be as nice as OEM and has no provision for fresh air, whereas the late model will have fresh air and recirc and A/C enabled defrost.

Preston, yes we're going to use the air box and everything from the 98.
thanks for the feedback on that.

My dad and I were just talking about the firewall.
I'm no expert here, and am certainly open to suggestions/feedback.
swapping this firewall & most of the tunnel should take care of:
-brake booster mount,
-gas and brake pedals mount & lining up the linkage to the booster
-mounting the dash
-mounting the the console
-the e-brake
-the heater box
-air inlet for the heater box
-steering pivot & column

Sure we could fabricate mounts for all that stuff, but this seems like it would take care of all that in one big step.






What is your plan for the gauges - custom panel that uses standard aftermarket gauges or are you going to attempt to integrate the OEM gauges ? Can you explain your approach here ?
the stock 98 cluster is run by the PCM, so I was thinking of using this:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/amgp1-1.jpg




A previous poster mentioned creating a return/assist spring for the power windows ? Can he come back and tell us what that means. I am running the Electric Life power windows in my '67 and they have been a good unit but I always felt they were a bit underpowered. I spent a lot of time getting my seals just right so the windows would easily go up all the way, if you have any friction at all the pw motor really struggles and won't always close easily. They seem to work okay now, but just curious if other people have had problems with the kit being a bit weak and if some kind of spring assist helps and how that might be fabbed up.

I havn't dived into the doors/windows yet, so I'll have to look into that when we get there.



Yeah MustangsPlus or delta bay can source the fiberglass side scoops in functional brake duct or non-fucntional style.

Have you seen one that is made of metal?
I was also thinking that functional sides scoops - would be "cool" to mount a remote transmission cooler behind it.



I totally agree with clean not Eleanor look.

Glad to hear it :)

[preston]

I'm no expert here, and am certainly open to suggestions/feedback.
swapping this firewall & most of the tunnel should take care of:
-brake booster mount,
-gas and brake pedals mount & lining up the linkage to the booster
-mounting the dash
-mounting the the console
-the e-brake
-the heater box
-air inlet for the heater box
-steering pivot & columnAll good points that have to be balanced against welding in a complete new firewall that may or may not fit the existing structure well (I'm guessing you would you start above the frame rails and torque boxes). Myself I would rather build all the custom mounts. On those '67's you often have a significant amount of cowl rot that needs to be addressed anyway which might make replacing the firewall easier, but your car looks to be in very good shape.

Air inlet for the heater box is a significant issue as this will be difficult to connect to the '67 cowl area if you don't reuse the original "tube".

I have never seen a metal side scoop sold. I recently made some myself using standard metal forming techniques but don't have any plans to sell them. On my old car I put the diff and trans coolers in teh side scoops like you are talking about. Here is a picture of them being mocked up without bodywork however note its a tube frame so not sure how applicable it is for you. Not sure how well it workd as i was running my exhaust pipe behind the cooler about 6" and there didn't seem to be much airflow in there despite the scoop. Never instrumented it before/after so again not sure how well it worked.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/Building20Diff20cooler20small-1.jpg

[SVTforme]

Interesting project - finally going to take the time to comment :). Looks like you have come a long way since you started.

As for the interior, as you know we are doing the exact opposite to you (and plus it is on a Torino and not a Mustang - although they are similar in many ways). I am retaining ther stock interior look, but hiding all the guts from a newer Mustang behind it. I am running an SN95 Mustang suspension front and rear, engine, trans, rear and all the assosiated electronics.

Personally - I think the interior of a old Mustang is just as iconic as the outside of the car. That's why I decided to go original, although it made my life more difficult to get there with all the modern parts in the background. Are you just looking for a more modern feel in the interior? Not meaning to be a critic here - was just curious given the amount of work it will take you to get there. I know I get these questions all the time :).

We ended up removing the stock Torino firewall and replaced it with a 2004 Mustang one. We went back and forth on that one, and in the end decided to go ahead with it once we found out how cheap a firewall is from the Ford service dept. It also made sense since nothing from the original Torino that bolts to the firewall is retained in our cars. It turned out to be much more work than planned, but worth it for what we are doing.

Our reasoning for doing this was:
- Clearance for the 6-speed trans which takes up lots of room
- Mounting of the gas pedal (for use with the cable for the 4.6L engine)
- Mounting of the brakes and clutch. This interfaces with the stock Mustang clutch cable and hydroboost assembly.
- Mounting of the heater box / air dryer from a new Mustang. This goes along with all the Mustang wiring and connects to a stock new Mustang condensor, compressor etc.
- Made it easier to pass the wiring through to the engine compartment, and did not have to patch dozens of original Torino holes.

Major issues we had/have:
- Fitting a new Mustang firewall into a Torino (obviously). The newer Mustang has a different windshield rake angle which changes the proportions of the car quite a bit relative to older cars. This put the wheel wells on the firewall in the completely wrong place. We just cut them out of the firewall and made the panels flat.
- Controlling new Mustang heater control with old Torino sliding controls
- Finding a place for the cruise control buttons
- Operating the newer intermittent wipers from the Torino instrument panel
- Operating a new Mustang light switch from old Torino panel
- Moving the key from the column to the dash (since we are retaining the PATS security system and want to use new Ford keys)
- We do have the same issue as you do when it comes to ducting the fresh air into the heater box. We are just going to scratch build an adapter.
- For the clutch to work correctly, we had to lower the floor 3/4" so the top of the pedal would not interfere with the cowl area and water drainage.
- Making a new gauge cluster work in an old car. Long complicated solution there :). That's a whole other story in its own.
- Original glove-box vs. new heater box

Issues I see you having (all depending on how much of the Mustang front clip you use):
- Contolling the Mustang wiper motor from the new Mustang column. Likely easier in the end to use a motor from a new Mustang on your car. Believe it or not, the rotating arm from a Torino bolts right onto a new Mustang motor - same slot size and everything.
- Adpting a old light switch to a new dash. This one kinda shocked me. A 2004 Mustang light switch bolts into a 1968 Torino dash with no mods at all. They are still nearly identical nearly 40 years later except for the pin outs on the switch.
- Connecting new signal light harnesses from a new column to an old harness. Another surprise here - Ford still uses the same color coding on all the wires even today, so it is an easy cut and splice for you.
- Adapting the gas pedal/cable to your engine. Motion ratio will likely be different, so you may have to make up some custom linkage. Maybe a Fox body carb cable will work?
- Adapting shifter to older trans. I don't speak auto trans.. so can't help you there :).
- Cluster as you already know
- Steering linkages to the new column. Surprisingly new cars still use the same/similar 3/4 DD steering shafts as the 60's cars. Only issue here is the new column does not go straight to the floor. The column kicks to the right to clear the brake pedal.
- Are you planning on just keeping the airbag in the column and making it non-functional? Same thing with the cruise control?

I could go on and on :). I am sure you already know most of this.. but figured I would chime in regardless. You definitely have a lot of work ahead of you as you already know. Good luck and keep the posts coming!

[Dalamar]

thanks for the feedback Preston.
It makes sense what you're saying about the cooler. I wonder how much air flow actually goes in there.

I'm curious - how long did it take you to make metal scoops?

[Dalamar]

Thank you for the excellent feedback SVTforme.

That is interesting how we're doing similar but opposites on the engine/interior. Thanks for the info on your experience, very helpful!
The SN95 interior is just under 3" wider than the 67, but there is a formed post on either side.
once we subtracted that it's within 1/2 on the width for the dash mounts. the tunnel is also offset to the passanger
side in the SN and a little extra room around the transmission will be good.

With this IRS - the drive shaft won't need to move up/down, I was thinking of shaving the tunnel down where the rear seat
is so there's not such a hump in the rear seat. we'll see how that turns out.





Personally - I think the interior of a old Mustang is just as iconic as the outside of the car. That's why I decided to go original, although it made my life more difficult to get there with all the modern parts in the background. Are you just looking for a more modern feel in the interior? Not meaning to be a critic here - was just curious given the amount of work it will take you to get there. I know I get these questions all the time :).
It's all good.
I really don't like the older dashes, they're very plain and have no console ect. I do like the SN interior, and wanted a console -
so I thought it would be a good fit. make the car more interesting and comfortable on the inside.



- We do have the same issue as you do when it comes to ducting the fresh air into the heater box. We are just going to scratch build an adapter.

Hoping to reuse the lower part of the firewall/cowel. then the intake will line right up.



- For the clutch to work correctly, we had to lower the floor 3/4" so the top of the pedal would not interfere with the cowl area and water drainage.

I think we're going to raise the dash up about 1 1/2" above where we mocked it up.
would be nice to lower the floor a little, but with these rails going through it, it wouldn't work out.





Issues I see you having (all depending on how much of the Mustang front clip you use):
- Contolling the Mustang wiper motor from the new Mustang column. Likely easier in the end to use a motor from a new Mustang on your car. Believe it or not, the rotating arm from a Torino bolts right onto a new Mustang motor - same slot size and everything.


The wiper motor bolts up, thats GREAT to hear. we were wondering if we'd have to swap the whole arm assembly. we definately want intermitent wipers. :)

I can imagine you had quite the job wiring all new controls and electronics in your project!





- Adpting a old light switch to a new dash. This one kinda shocked me. A 2004 Mustang light switch bolts into a 1968 Torino dash with no mods at all. They are still nearly identical nearly 40 years later except for the pin outs on the switch.

- Connecting new signal light harnesses from a new column to an old harness. Another surprise here - Ford still uses the same color coding on all the wires even today, so it is an easy cut and splice for you.

had no idea. thank you again.





- Adapting the gas pedal/cable to your engine. Motion ratio will likely be different, so you may have to make up some custom linkage. Maybe a Fox body carb cable will work?

yes, fox body linkage should work fine.
thinking of EFI conversion rather than a carb.




- Adapting shifter to older trans. I don't speak auto trans.. so can't help you there :).

:D




- Are you planning on just keeping the airbag in the column and making it non-functional? Same thing with the cruise control?

For the steering wheel, we've removed the SN95 wheel-airbag is built into it. Momo makes a nice wheel that bolts right on.

[preston]

I'm curious - how long did it take you to make metal scoops?

Probably 4 hours each not including the flanges welded to the body to bolt them on (I made them out of aluminum), and not including paint/bondo (which hasn't been done yet). But the have a nice rolled edge on the "outlet" too.

And these were actually made for the front fenders to provide hot air outlet behind the wheels, but they were shaped to have the same contours as the rear ones, so process would be very similar.

[Dalamar]

:jump::jump::jump::jump::jump:


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/03/T75-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/03/T76-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/03/T77-1.jpg

[72mavrick302]

:)Sweet!!!

[CruizinKev]

:drool: :twothumbs

[Bryce]

cool

[icebird84]

looks good :twothumbs

[aussiebj]

keep going it looks great..

[Dalamar]

thanks for the compliments.



I had some spacers made for the rear, they match the rotor hat diameter and are hub-centric. :)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/03/Spacer2-1.jpg


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/03/Spacer4-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/03/Spacer5-1.jpg


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/03/Spacer6-1.jpg


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/03/T78-1.jpg

[Krazed]

I'm not sure if you or anyone else has noticed, but all of your picture links seem broken. You may want to look into fixing it. Right-clicking and opening the links in a new tab or window works so I think it's where the pictures are pointing or the code. If you have moved your pictures at all, or sorted them in some way this may be causing the issue.

Oh, and AWESOME Work on the Mustang, Loving the idea's and mods!

[CruizinKev]

very nice work Jeff! you'll add fender flares? what rear tire size?

[Dalamar]

Really Krazed? it works fine on my end. Is anyone else having that problem?



Thanks Kevin.
We're going to keep the stock flair, and bringing the fender out.
Rears are 305's

[SamHatco]

good to me. Progress is coming along nicely. Great workmanship.

Sam

[Krazed]

Hmmm work's fine now. Not sure what happened! All other threads were working fine, just yours wasn't.. oh well!

[Dalamar]

Well after doing some reading....after I got these spacers, there appears to be an issue with spacers over 1/2" thick,
shearing force and expansion/contraction can cause the lugs to loosen.
I'm not totally conviced, but I'd rather error on the side of caution, so I ordered another set of these in Adapter form, with offset studs.

good feedback on this thread:
http://www.gt40s.com/forum/gt40-tech-chassis-brakes-tires-wheels/17072-wheel-spacers-good-bad-dangerous.html


live and learn :)

[chunger]

Dalamar - Enjoying the build. I too had a '67 Fastback, but all I did was drop in a 5.0L! Course this was 20 years ago, when not many were doing that.

Anyway - I've noticed in your pics that you appear to be using a small Lincoln welder - how do you like it? Any issues with welding thick material? I ask as I'm going to be picking up a welder myself and can find these Lincolns easily. What size/model is it? Are you using it with gas?

[strtcar]

This is an awesome build.

[Dalamar]

Thanks Strtcar






Dalamar - Enjoying the build. I too had a '67 Fastback, but all I did was drop in a 5.0L! Course this was 20 years ago, when not many were doing that.

Anyway - I've noticed in your pics that you appear to be using a small Lincoln welder - how do you like it? Any issues with welding thick material? I ask as I'm going to be picking up a welder myself and can find these Lincolns easily. What size/model is it? Are you using it with gas?

Thank you. What color was your Fastback?

My welder is the Lincoln SP-170 T
Runs on 220V. and I use an Argon/Co2 mix with it for the shield.
I've had it for about 5 years, and it works great.
Recently replaced the lead because the coil inside it was getting old cand causing drag on the wire. Otherwise I've had no problems.
I wouldn't recommend going over a 15' lead.

I welded my Roticery together with it. :)
Much past 1/4 you'd want more heat. Using this for 3/16 and 1/4 I'd recommend you have a slight gap to help with penetration.

[Dalamar]

Removing the firewall wasn't as hard as we thought it would be.
We worked on it for about 6 hrs today.

Here's some pictures.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/03/T80-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/03/T81-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/03/T82-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/03/T83-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/03/T85-1.jpg


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/03/T84-1.jpg

[Dalamar]

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/03/T86-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/03/T87-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/03/T88-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/03/T89-1.jpg


:cheers::cheers::cheers::cheers:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/03/T91-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/03/T90-1.jpg

[sgt d]

makes me want to start a build..lol.. good looking work from a fellow hellion guy!

[bonecrrusher]

Damn... talking about cutting 2 cars apart to make one... looks awesome!!

[jackfrost]

awesome progress!

the burning seam sealer is a familiar sight... ;)

[chunger]

Thank you. What color was your Fastback?
Wimbledon White, with a black turn signal hood that I had traded some parts for and since the paint was good, was too lazy to repaint to match the car. Color wise, it actually worked pretty good.



My welder is the Lincoln SP-170 T
Runs on 220V. and I use an Argon/Co2 mix with it for the shield.
I've had it for about 5 years, and it works great.
Recently replaced the lead because the coil inside it was getting old cand causing drag on the wire. Otherwise I've had no problems.
I wouldn't recommend going over a 15' lead.

I welded my Roticery together with it. :)
Much past 1/4 you'd want more heat. Using this for 3/16 and 1/4 I'd recommend you have a slight gap to help with penetration.Thanks, I'll have to go take another look at the Lincolns, sounds like they'll work just fine. But, I'll have to stick with the 110v models.

Car is really coming together. Nice job on the firewall - are you going to fab in some cowl vents like the stock firewall has? Dunno about you, but I find myself using them quite a bit to get air flowing in the car.

[Dalamar]

Wimbledon White, with a black turn signal hood that I had traded some parts for and since the paint was good, was too lazy to repaint to match the car. Color wise, it actually worked pretty good.


black hood on white is a nice combo. I'm considering doing something on my 96, which is white.




Thanks, I'll have to go take another look at the Lincolns, sounds like they'll work just fine. But, I'll have to stick with the 110v models.


If there is any way you can get 220V out where your welder is, I'd highly recommend it.
In my experience you get a better weld, and you can turn up the heat when needed.

If you need to go with a buzz box (120 V uint ;) , I'd do some more checking on which model is best. a 120V unit would be fine if you're just doing sheet metal.



havn't thought about putting those vents back on, but that's a good suggestion. I'll check it out, thanks.

[CruizinKev]

wow awesome work! looking good!! :twothumbs

[ATOMonkey]

Very nice!

Do you have plans to put in a cage and support bars for the front frame section?

I noticed that my front frame section became very flexy after I removed the dog house and torque boxes.

I thought it would be stiff enough with a cage and welded subframe connectors, but it was not.

[ATOMonkey]

Wimbledon White, with a black turn signal hood that I had traded some parts for and since the paint was good, was too lazy to repaint to match the car. Color wise, it actually worked pretty good.

Thanks, I'll have to go take another look at the Lincolns, sounds like they'll work just fine. But, I'll have to stick with the 110v models.

Car is really coming together. Nice job on the firewall - are you going to fab in some cowl vents like the stock firewall has? Dunno about you, but I find myself using them quite a bit to get air flowing in the car.

Running a 220V outlet is not hard at all. I wouldn't let that deter you from getting a bigger welder.

[Dalamar]

Very nice!

Do you have plans to put in a cage and support bars for the front frame section?

I noticed that my front frame section became very flexy after I removed the dog house and torque boxes.

I thought it would be stiff enough with a cage and welded subframe connectors, but it was not.


Yes we were, that flimsy sheet metal there, without the strut towers didn't seem to be doing much. I haven't done anything like that before, but we measured out the angle on the top for the fender mounts, and it shouldn't be too hard.

I looked over your link/build in your sig.
Looks like we've got the same welder. and I like how you cut a hole in the roof to hook up your hoist :) nice work.
Looks like it will be a nice ride. similar front, IRS and you've got Termy power!
My dad's first car when he got married was a Mav.
he says my Mom would do burn out's down their street. I have a hard time imagining that! :)

[Dalamar]

Can someone tell me where I can find some guildlines to help me build a cage/front support. We want to do it, but it will be undiscovered country!

[Dalamar]

The tunnel from the SN is offset towards the passanger side, and is a lil wider.
The drivers side lined up pretty good, and I got it frenched in last night.
reworked the right side corner piece to fit.
removed the outside hump from the SN, will fab it straighter with a lil more room.


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/03/T94-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/03/T95-1.jpg



The other side will take some massaging :smashcomp

(that beutel tape/tar stuff is tough stuff)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/03/T92-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/03/T93-1.jpg

[ATOMonkey]

Yes we were, that flimsy sheet metal there, without the strut towers didn't seem to be doing much. I haven't done anything like that before, but we measured out the angle on the top for the fender mounts, and it shouldn't be too hard.

I looked over your link/build in your sig.
Looks like we've got the same welder. and I like how you cut a hole in the roof to hook up your hoist :) nice work.
Looks like it will be a nice ride. similar front, IRS and you've got Termy power!
My dad's first car when he got married was a Mav.
he says my Mom would do burn out's down their street. I have a hard time imagining that! :)

Thanks for the compliments!

That flimsy sheet metal combined with the torque boxes was doing much more than I imagined. When I sat that mod motor on there it probably sagged the whole front end at least 2 inches. That's why I tacked those down bars in there. I'm sure it has something to do with the car sitting on the rockers (so the weight isn't realistically distributed) but still...

Since I don't plan on drag racing, and only wanted to cage to add stiffness to the car, I bought the Jeg's 10 point cage and rear seat saver bars. It ended up fitting pretty well, and I could have tucked it up better if it wasn't my first time doing it. I ground the notches too deep which shortened up the bars too much. Still workable though.

I don't like the way those diagonal bars look right now, and I'm not satisfied that they provide all the support I want. So, I'm going to order another set of rear seat saver bars ($55USD) and use those to brace up the front. Should look much better and support the front end a lot better too. Especially after I add gussets to the joints. I'll also be able to use them to support the fenders and hood later.

I need to add some bars from the frame to the cage where the torque boxes used to be, because that appears to be where most of my flex is happening. It's just spanning too much distance without any verticle support. Once I do that, I should be pretty good to go.

[Goat73]

Just read through the whole thread. very quality work. can't wait for the finished product..keep up the great work.

[Dalamar]

Thanks Goat



Made some more progress this evening

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/03/T96-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/03/T97-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/03/T98-1.jpg



https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/03/T99-1.jpg

[ATOMonkey]

Can someone tell me where I can find some guildlines to help me build a cage/front support. We want to do it, but it will be undiscovered country!

I like the way this guy has run the tubes for his maverick.

http://mmb.maverick.to/showthread.php?p=670770#post670770

[Dalamar]

I'm not registered on that site, can't view the pics :(

[ATOMonkey]

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

[Dalamar]

Picked up a few things from powder yesterday!
brakes/adapters turned out guuuuud.


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/03/U3-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/03/U4-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/03/U5-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/03/U6-1.jpg



Shiny Motor mounts, and picked up an IRS cover brace.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/03/U7-1.jpg

[capjr]

:1st:WOW ,firewall and tunnel look almost made to swap, Nice job Gonna have a very cool ride when finished !!!!!

[Dalamar]

Thank you capjr!



Today we got the firewall mostly welded off.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/03/U8-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/03/U9-1.jpg


Test fit the dash - Looks pretty good... we raised it up for a little more leg room :)
first install/adjustment of many

The ends of the dash are a little wide, and we're going to have to do something about that.


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/03/U10-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/03/U11-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/03/U12-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/03/U13-1.jpg

[1971CHEVELLE]

very nice work!!!:1st:

[icebird84]

looking good

[SamHatco]

That's going to look awsome!

Sam

[CruizinKev]

awesome work! nice interior - looks like mine :)

[bonecrrusher]

Thats awesome!

[Dalamar]

makes me want to start a build..lol.. good looking work from a fellow hellion guy!

Do tell! what is youre hellion bolted on?

[Dalamar]

Thanks for the compliments guys.

started tearing the doors apart, they're a mess.

[youngandfree]

Hey man, nice project. I like the late model interior a lot. Here is a front end idea for you. It is from the Obsidian Mustang. It is a blended '05 grill and lights and bumper. Looks sweet on the fastback.

http://www.autoworksracing.com/AWRacing/sema_06/slides/obsid%2015.html

[Bryce]

those are stupid expensive.

[Wolvee]

I didn't know you were on here Dalamar? I've been visiting this site since it was a .news.subscription

[Dalamar]

Thanks Young, that is pretty nice looking. I have an idea on the front of this thing, we'll see if it works out.
I do really like the Obsidian's rear cover/tail light cover.



Hey what's up Sxynerd? nice to see an old vet on here :)





Been busy with other projects, but did get a nice GAS CAP for this thing.

oooooooow Shiny!


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/03/gascap1-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/03/gascap2-1.jpg

[Motown 454]

Nice progress and nice bling.

[ATOMonkey]

Do you know how you're going to narrow the dash?

[Dalamar]

Do you know how you're going to narrow the dash?

My plan of attack is to get the doors on and see if I can hollow out a section on the inside panel to clear the dash ends. if there's not enough space, we'll have to get out the samuri sword!

[ProMav71]

My plan of attack is to get the doors on and see if I can hollow out a section on the inside panel to clear the dash ends. if there's not enough space, we'll have to get out the samuri sword!

Thats exactly what Im having to do on my Maverick to clear the ends of the Stang dash. Your Stang should be a little wider than a Maverick so you should have enough space.

[ATOMonkey]

I was going to suggest that if you wanted to get really fancy, you could make a fiberglass mold of the dash, narrow your mold, and make a custom narrow dash that will fit in the car.

[TonyHuntimer]

(that beutel tape/tar stuff is tough stuff)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/03/T92-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/03/T93-1.jpg

If you want to remove that tar easily, go to your local dry ice dealer and buy some dry ice sheets. Lay the sheets on the tar. Let it freeze the tar. Move the ice to another spot and smack the tar with a hammer. It will shatter and come right off the metal. Be careful with the dry ice. You can't hold it with your bare hands...using pliers is a good idea. Read up on handling it safely.

[Dalamar]

That would have been great to know before we did that! thanks for the suggestion, I kinda want to try it jus to see how it works.

Spring/summer -- I'm busy.
it's been a few months, but I messed with the car a little today.
few more shots.


Got the right sized studs pressed in and the adapter installed with red loctite.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/06/U15-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/06/U16-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/06/U17-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/06/U18-1.jpg



And don't forget my $75 soda blasted cup holder!!

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/06/U14-1.jpg

[hechtrod]

Hey Dalamar, I remember you from the sn95 forum when I had a '94. I'm in Utah too. I need to drop by your place and check out this '67. Wow! You and your dad have done tons of work. Amazing! Definitely be following this build.
Chris

[Ripped]

...




https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/06/U17-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/06/U18-1.jpg








Are you going to go wide-body on the back end?, what are the plans for the rear quarters?

[Dalamar]

Are you going to go wide-body on the back end?, what are the plans for the rear quarters?

We're going to widen the rear quarter.
this car will have a low stance.

[hechtrod]

So, Dalamar, any update on this badboy!?

[sgt d]

updates?

[Dalamar]

No updates of yet guys, sorry.
my summer has been super busy! now that the kids are back in school, it should calm down some.

[ATOMonkey]

Bippity boppity bump for an update?

[Dalamar]

it is about time for an update, and about time we worked on this project for that matter.


What we did over the weekend.
Wiper linkage. mounting the motor and linkage from the 97 doner car.
here's some pics.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/12/U20-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/12/U21-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/12/U22-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/12/U25-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/12/U23-1.jpg

The motor is accessable from the bay, and the rest will be welded back under the cowel sheet :spank2:metal!

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/12/U24-1.jpg

[Dalamar]

pieced in the tunnel brace and tied it into the seat crossbrace

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/12/U28-1.jpg



got it up in the air to weld all the joints on the bottom side.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/12/U26-1.jpg



I still think the bottom of this car is more interesting :P

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/12/U27-1.jpg

[chunger]

Great to see that this project is still moving along - it's looking good!

[CruizinKev]

looking good Jeff! good work!!!

[Dalamar]

last weekend's damage:


Metal prep'd & Pour15 the front inside
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/12/U38-1.jpg



Put the front suspension back on:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/12/U39-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/12/U40-1.jpg


heater core bolts right in!
Front tires on :)


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/12/U42-1.jpg




https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/12/U44-1.jpg





Check out the Hotness: :yeah:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/12/U45-1.jpg

[cobraguy65]

Awesome project jeff!

[bonecrrusher]

Whats the height of your garage ceiling?

Car is looking awesome...

[Dalamar]

Thanks Cobraguy.


Bonecrusher, it's 10'
would have loved to go higher, but couldn't.




Looking at some Dampifier to put down on the interior to make it nice and quiet inside.
has anyone used that stuff?

[ProTouringCuda]

Looking at some Dampifier to put down on the interior to make it nice and quiet inside.
has anyone used that stuff?

I used Dynamat on the '65. Every easy to install, and works pretty good as well.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/12/100_1303-1.jpg

[Zachalanche]

Like all the custom fab. should be an awsome car. Just a heads up, I had the same front end on my '70 and had some issues with the coilover mounts. The adjustable pieces would never stay in place and I eventually had to tack them to keep them where I wanted them. and over time the vertical piece that holds the coilover mount began to bend inward, so you may want to reinforce that if possible.

I also had a little trouble keeping the Rod and Customs supplied U-joints tight on the sterring shaft. nothing ever came apart, but it was a neusance since it frequently caused there to be a little play in the wheel. I had the manual rack so I'm sure there was a lot of force put on the steering shaft at times. Hopefully you will have better luck with the power rack.

[preston]

I've had the same problem with Borgeson steering joints. Even with loc-tite those little set screws seem to back off after a while. I've thought of using normal bolts and safety wiring them, but always worry the wire could somehow bind on the joint at a bad time, although its hard to imagine safety wire being strong enough to bind the steering. Just keep an eye on them and if you're steering feels sloppy check there first.

[chunger]

Looking at some Dampifier to put down on the interior to make it nice and quiet inside.
has anyone used that stuff?

I'm using QuietCar. You might want to look into it. It's a liquid you can spray or brush/roll onto the surfaces. Goes on like thick paint. I have several friends who've done their cars with it already and swear by it. I'll use about 2 1/2 gal for my entire car. The best part is, it is MUCH lighter than DynaMat. A 5 gal bucket weighs about 50 pounds. And 5 gals would be more than enough for an entire car.

[Dalamar]

thanks for the info Chunger and John.
i'll check that stuff out.


Thanks very much for the info Zackalanche, that is good to know.
once I figure out the hight I want to set it at, i'll have to mess with it.
now is definately the time to make modifications to it, not after the car is finished. :fingersx:

[Zachalanche]

thanks for the info Chunger and John.
i'll check that stuff out.


Thanks very much for the info Zackalanche, that is good to know.
once I figure out the hight I want to set it at, i'll have to mess with it.
now is definately the time to make modifications to it, not after the car is finished. :fingersx:

No prob. Good luck.

[Dalamar]

Todays damage:
dash back in. see that red line - chopity chop!

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/12/U48-1.jpg


put the steering in - ordered a solid steering shaft from Maximum Motorsports to replace the stock cush-rag.
will probably have to swap out/chop the end that goes on the rack.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/12/U43-1.jpg


Cut the dash ends off for door clearance, hung drivers door and checked
:twothumbs

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/12/U46-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/12/U47-1.jpg

my son Ren.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/12/U49-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/12/U50-1.jpg

Fits better than I thought it would!

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/12/U51-1.jpg

[icebird84]

looking good

[badbu68]

love it!

[austin552]

Great work! Watching this one like a hawk.
:seizure:

[bonecrrusher]

Lookin good!

[FRENCHBLUE72]

Looking good lots of work put into this one...

[Dalamar]

Thanks guys.

Not sure if these doors are recoverable? anyone with experience with this sort of thing agree/disagree?



BTW, Happy 2011! let's get some work done this year.


Still deciding what to do on the doors.... so we did mess with some sheet metal over the last week. *Pillar vent/scoops
we want a scoop, but more low profile than the shelby scoop.

look at this picture:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

IMO it's a bit much.

we want one that doesn't stick out so far and isn't so close to the body line...
So we decided to try our had at making one! *
Made a wooden insert and messed around.

progress:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/01/U52-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/01/U53-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/01/U54-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/01/U55-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/01/U56-1.jpg



filled in the front and bottom of the hole a bit, the scoop sits a little higher and is a bit narrower.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/01/U57-1.jpg


Tac'd it into place to stare at it.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/01/U58-1.jpg

I like the front, but think the back needs to taper down more, maybe flush with the panel.

Opinions?

[482supersnake]

Looks good but yeah bring the back in a little and put a naca duct in there to let some air out. Scott

[Dalamar]

Scott: thinking of having the duct be dammed off about 1" in.



https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/01/U59-1.jpg

[Dalamar]

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/01/U63-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/01/U67-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/01/U70-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/01/U71-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/01/U73-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/01/U75-1.jpg



https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/01/U74-1.jpg

[Bjkadron]

Nice! In my opinion it might look a bit better if you made it follow the fender contour a little but more.. such as make the bottom front drop down a bit more or raise the back part of it a bit more. or am I not explaining myself well?

[Motown 454]

Nice fab work! I agree wit hyou it looks better with the back tucked in closer.

[MSTSFabbed]

Excellent! The scoops look great! Ive always liked the Shelby scoops but the idea of smaller ones never even occured to me. Awesome! Keep it up!

[Crestronwizard]

I love this build! I was wondering if a new model dash could be made to fit.......thanks for answering that question! :-)

[HOSTILETAKEOVER]

VERY cool build. You certainly are not affraid to try things. Its inspirational.

I put a C4 corvette IRS in my 69 Camaro. I just think IRS is just cool and a nod to where modern rear wheel drive cars are eventually all going to be.

[Dalamar]

thanks for the compliments guys.



In order to accommodate the wider IRS and 10" wheels/tires, we wanted to wide body the rear fender and keep the stock flair vs putting on a huge flair.
moved the fender out 1 7/8" in the center, radius tapered out to the ends.

Progress pix:

(like my dad's nice straight cut!) :poke:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/02/U76-1.jpg



3 tedious check, tac, check hammer, check..... hours later:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/02/U77-1.jpg



stock flair clamped up :jump:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/02/U78-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/02/U81-1.jpg



Still have to do the other side, tie in the bottoms, and extend the inner fender wells & weld all that stuff off.
Also want to extend the side skirt to make it taller and flair it out in the back a little.

[Dalamar]

Few more fun Pix:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/02/U79-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/02/U80-1.jpg



this shot got me excited!

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/02/U80after-1.jpg

[Crestronwizard]

very nice!

[aussiebj]

where did the fender flares come from ..I love the look keep it up....

[Dalamar]

TY sir!

The flairs we cut off an aftermarket fender.

[Dalamar]

anyone have any suggestions? - I'm open to advice! kinda winging it.

[Ripped]

TY sir!

The flairs we cut off an aftermarket fender.

They look nice.

I did kind of a similar thing, except I left the top of the quarters attached, and detatched the wheelhouses in the middle, then moved the fenders out.

Good looking project!

[Dalamar]

Tried out some Dampifier on the firewall. I like this stuff


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/02/U82-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/02/U83-1.jpg

[Dalamar]

Ok, so i'm going to have to make a number of patch and extension panels to accomplish what I want to do with the body.
got into mounting the flair off the aftermarket fender, and the lip has a nice swoop in it.
it seems that i'm going to have to learn how to do some metal working.


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/02/U84-1.jpg


see how it swoops out on the right? :squint:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/02/U85-1.jpg


Just ordered a metal shaping tutorial. Gotta up my skills with curves and working with thin sheet metal.

[CruizinKev]

looks great Jeff! good work! :twothumbs

[Bryce]

Nice work.

[Dalamar]

Made some progress tonight.
After much massaging, we tested the wheel travel.


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/03/U88-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/03/U89-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/03/U90-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/03/U91-1.jpg



this is all new to me. I have some ideas on the inner fender, but if anyone has some suggestions, please shoot them my way.
also wondering how to make the rear flair lower profile....we'll see what I can figure out.





very interersted in the Ring Bros rear spoiler so we did a "how will it look" cardboard/spraypaint mach.
I like it :twothumbs:twothumbs

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/03/U92-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/03/U93-1.jpg


I'm pretty happy with the new wide body line from the back.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/03/U94-1.jpg

[Motown 454]

Its looking great nice work.

[Zachalanche]

I like the combination of part wide body and part fender flare. With just one or the other, sometimes the modification looks too drastic.

[482supersnake]

Hi Jeff Looks Great. I used an inner wheel well cut off to fill the gap on my mustang but I dont have the wide body like you so I don't know if it would be long enough. https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/03/100_4897-1.jpg[/IMG]

[Dalamar]

Thanks Wayne & Zack

I'm thinking I want to make the rear flair lower profile. thinking i'll have to split it.



aren't self-drilling-self-tapping screws super useful!?

thanks for the picture SS

[Dalamar]

played with the inner wells tonight.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/03/U96-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/03/U95-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/03/U97-1.jpg




https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/03/U98-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/03/U99-1.jpg


hammered the flanges out so they follow the curve pretty well.
will have to piece between this and the flair once we roll the edge.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/03/V2-1.jpg

[bonecrrusher]

Cool. Are those prefab trailer wheel covers?

[Dalamar]

Yes they are, 16 gauge was the thinnest they had.

[bonecrrusher]

Cool - trailer wheel covers for wheel wells, and wheel barrels for fire walls... gotta love hot rodding! Looks good.

[garner67]

Nice to see you making progress this year. I really like how you extended the entire fender instead of flaring just the wheel area.

Having recently moved to SLC, I look forward to seeing your Mustang on the streets one day. Keep up the great work!

[Dalamar]

Nice to see you making progress this year. I really like how you extended the entire fender instead of flaring just the wheel area.

Having recently moved to SLC, I look forward to seeing your Mustang on the streets one day. Keep up the great work!

Thanks. and welcome to SLC. I love it here.
and I see in your sig that you're aware of the Miller track. it's so much fun to drive there, you'll love it.


just looked over your build link. NICE CAR!
love the metal hood scoop you have on there, and seeing the progress of your build.
tinted tails go great with your black ride.
looks like the body guys did an outstanding job on the prep and paint.
beautiful car, hope to see you on the road sometime.

[Dalamar]

What do you guys think of this??


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/03/V5-1.jpg


STOCK SIZED FLAIR = TOO BIG
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/03/V3-1.jpg

BIKINI FLAIR
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/03/V4-1.jpg


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/03/V6-1.jpg

[JBCO]

Looks good! I like the way to tapered it down all the way to the rear (towards the rear valence) -- I always thought that part on our cars was lacking -- makes larger tires look out of place to an extent.

Nice work fellas

[Dalamar]

I'd like some feedback --- What do you guys think of this?



some duct tape, cardboard and some smudging with PS to give the idea.

The general idea is to Fabricate the side skirt so it's about 3" lower, smooth and clean on the bottom. should give the side of the car a little bit taller look.
Fab side scoop, and move the bottom line of the scoop down and further forward. (it won't be as promenent as shown here)


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/04/V7-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/04/V8-1.jpg

[GT500KR_Vert]

Mine look like that, they are made by Mustang Depot- 1968 4-Piece Ground Effects Kit

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/04/25768760136_large-1.jpg


I'd like some feedback --- What do you guys think of this?



some duct tape, cardboard and some smudging with PS to give the idea.

The general idea is to Fabricate the side skirt so it's about 3" lower, smooth and clean on the bottom. should give the side of the car a little bit taller look.
Fab side scoop, and move the bottom line of the scoop down and further forward. (it won't be as promenent as shown here)


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/04/V7-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/04/V8-1.jpg

[HotRod47]

I like it!

[garner67]

I like it.

Are you thinking about doing the same treatment along the rear quarter panel behind the rear wheel? I think a subtle extension on the rear quarter panel might have a better line from the lowered rocker panel extension to the rear quarter panel.

Looking good!

[Dalamar]

Thanks GT500KR, I looked over your build - nice work!

Thanks Guys.

Garner, absolutely yes, it will still taper towards the back but be lower behind the wheel, to match the rocker.

[NJSPEEDER]

That is a really cool look. Go for it!

-Tim

[MSTSFabbed]

Man I had to look at the pic for a few secs just to figure out what you did different! Very subtle but definitely good! I like it.

[705.0Merc]

Looking good. I really like how you did the subframe connectors and all the metal fab work. Any thoughts on turbocharging the fastback?

[Dalamar]

Thanks for the responses guys!



I'm just not loving the shape of the wheel wells. they just remind me of a truck well. i'll be looking for something else to use, something newer and ROUND :spank2:



We did Finished the wiper motor/arms in the transmuted cowel area.
Sealed up inside with Pour 15
Primed the bottom of the sheetmetal cowel with 3M weld-through primer & put it back in place.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/05/V10-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/05/V11-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/05/V12-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/05/V13-1.jpg


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/05/V14-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/05/V15-1.jpg

[sgt d]

Do tell! what is youre hellion bolted on?


sorry for the late reply, i saw you had posted in another thread and wanted to see if you were still working on yours, looking great.

my set up is on a 93 coupe, it was in the august issue of 5.0 along with my hellion shelby. final tune on it a 19 lbs on 93 octan was a hair over 740 to the wheels. i got rid of the shelby and picked up an aston martin vantage, i miss the shelby..lol..

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/08/Picture293-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/08/install321-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/05/DSC_5651-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/08/th_Picture300-1.jpg (http://s263.photobucket.com/albums/ii149/sgtdraughn/coupe/?action=view&current=Picture300.mp4)

great looking work you have been doing, i hope to gain the skills to tackle something like that myself.