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View Full Version : buying POR-15



67goatman455
02-02-2010, 05:10 PM
I'm getting ready to order POR-!% products and i'm wondering how far this stuff stretches....

I'm doing my frame, will 2 or 3 quarts cover the entire frame or do i need to step-up to a gallon? I'm tight on cash, so i'm trying to stretch my doll-hairs here, Ill be doing a boxed 67' GTO frame if it matters. Thanks guys!

BonzoHansen
02-02-2010, 05:37 PM
OMG do not buy that much, lol. that stuff goes for miles and leftovers do not really like being put away afterwards. buy the 6-pack of 4oz cans. that should handle your frame.

kochevy67
02-02-2010, 09:36 PM
Maybe 2 quarts. I just did my 67 Chevelle convert frame and I think I only used a quart and a touch of the 2nd one.

67goatman455
02-03-2010, 12:03 AM
holy cow, i was expecting it to not go far at all. what a relief! ill buy a quart then and a pint then. i can either use it for other stuff or sell it if i dont use it, I am SO glad i asked before buying a gallon. thanks a ton guys!

Jim Nilsen
02-03-2010, 06:54 AM
It is a smart thing to have another small can for back up that can remain sealed. You will find a place to use it eventually and if you don't have enough you will be in for more work than you care to imagine. That is why the six pack was mentioned.

I used the silver for my first coat because it fills better and then black for the second. You can't imagine how easy it is to miss places when you go back for the 2nd coat with the same color. Don't be stingy and try to stretch it out as you can make it too thin and it will fail you in looks.

Check the humidity before you start and do not leave or go anywhere in between the coats. The stuff can be ready to go and if you thought it was going to take another hour or get interrupted by someone and think you will be alright it can get you. I have had it take 2 hrs and other times 8hrs to get to the right touch. Higher humidity makes it dry faster.

Read the instructions and do not vary from them. I also advise not to thin it if you plan to spray it, crank up the pressure and/or get a larger tip. I never had any better luck with thinning it.

Get one of the small cans and do a test on something if you have never used it before so you can get an idea and see the results. It will be worth the time and money. The stuff works great when done correctly but it will delaminate easier if not.

The best thing about it is that no matter what it is still chemically resistant to most anything and it has saved my butt when the brake fluid hit the frame.

Goodluck and if you get it on your hands you can get it off by using a callouse remover /pumice stone from the local drug store. They are usually blue and ruff on one side and yellow and smooth on the other. cost is about $2. I found mine at the grocery in the health section. They( restomotive) refuses to sell them as they like to advertise nothing will take it off but wear. It's like sanding it off and it doesn't hurt at all.

Goodluck

Yoda4561
02-03-2010, 08:10 AM
What Jim said. POR cures with exposure to moisture in the air, once a container is opened the shelf life is drastically reduced. In fact even if they aren't opened and sit in a humid garage for long enough, it seems to cause them to set up. I had almost a dozen of the small cans do that, unopened from the factory, solid as a rock after sitting on the shelf for less than a year. I was rather impressed with the durability, when I opened the first can I figured it had just skinned over, so i attacked it with a screwdriver... then I smacked the screwdriver with a hammer, barely scratched the stuff.

67goatman455
02-03-2010, 03:44 PM
well crap....i wanted to get silver POR-15 and the Blackcoat for the top coat for exactly that reason but they had a package deal with both being black. Darn. I'm pretty thorough, so i should be able to manage. I have heard that once its opened then you better use it. Luckily i'm doing the entire frame so i'm not too worried. thanks for the info!

Yoda4561
02-03-2010, 04:40 PM
You should be fine, it's not like it'll harden overnight as soon as it's delivered to you. Get the prep work done so you can just paint the whole frame at once. Just store it indoors in a dry area, the heat and humidity of a florida garage probably made it kick way faster than if I had kept it air conditioned.

67goatman455
02-03-2010, 05:50 PM
lol, i wasn't that worried about it. I do plan on doing the whole frame at once anyways. dont worry, ill post pictures when i get it done lol. I'm just happy to start progress on the car finally.

Yoda4561
02-03-2010, 06:14 PM
Just remember that it sticks best to light surface rust and VERY coarse ground steel, like 80 grit or lower. If the surface is too smooth it won't adhere properly.

Jim Nilsen
02-03-2010, 06:55 PM
well crap....i wanted to get silver POR-15 and the Blackcoat for the top coat for exactly that reason but they had a package deal with both being black. Darn. I'm pretty thorough, so i should be able to manage. I have heard that once its opened then you better use it. Luckily i'm doing the entire frame so i'm not too worried. thanks for the info!

If for any reason you have a problem with coverage remember that the chassiscoat black is your friend to complete it as you don't have to worry if the first coats are already dry, you don't have to sand the surface to get the chassiscoat black to stick to it unless they have change the formula.

You should be ok with the same color on the 1st and 2nd coat but I was in a hurry when I did my s15 and learned to do the 2 color way when I did my cormaro. Just don't skimp to make it stretch if you are brushing it on.

As was said, a little rust or ruff surface is your friend, it etchs the surface the best and gives it tooth as they say.

67goatman455
02-03-2010, 09:12 PM
would brushing it on or spraying it make it go farther. i can do either, it doesn't bother me either way....

Jim Nilsen
02-04-2010, 06:21 AM
would brushing it on or spraying it make it go farther. i can do either, it doesn't bother me either way....

I have done both and spraying is faster, I had to do some bush touchup on the drips that can occur when trying to spray in places that are hard to get to. Brushing is a lot less mess and you can make it go a bit farther providing you are trying for the same coverage with each. Spray leaves a smoother look in some places but the drips and runs that you either leave or bush out still leave you with a brushed look sometimes and sometimes it will flow flat and smooth.

I would brush it on in your case with the experience you have with it and your need to make it go as far as you can. Learning to spray with it takes a few times and can mostly destroy the paint gun for anything else later if you can't get it perfectly clean. I have had luck with some of the airless sprayers but it goes on thick.

As I have said before, thinning it really doesn't work well as you have to really thin it a lot to make it spray really nice and at that point you sacrifice the integrity of the material in my experience.

By lots and lots of cheap brushes and keep a set of tweezers to pull out any strands that fall out of the brush.

And make sure you have plenty of ventilation or you will have a headache you won't get rid of for DAYS and DAZE.

67goatman455
02-04-2010, 03:38 PM
alright, good things to know! I may try to spray it....not sure yet. I am an auto body tech so i'm pretty sure i could have it come out alright. but it could also be VERY different from what i'm used to.....hmmm, decisions.

Does anyone have pictures of what it looks like when brushed on? Or maybe i could use a foam brush for better looks?

Yoda4561
02-04-2010, 03:49 PM
It's a cyanoacrylate based product (similar chemisty to superglue). Make sure if you spray you have something that will clean your gun out, I don't think normal laquer thinner works.

Injected69
02-05-2010, 08:04 AM
If you go to WWW.KBS- Coatings.com they have a really nice product for Frames, Motors, Trunk and Floor pan and they have videos show an old gas tank being cleaned repaired and coated all in 1 kit. I have the stuff for my 69 and it is great. Hope that helps you. Good luke and have fun with your project.

Injected69
02-05-2010, 08:05 AM
I ment Good LUCK not Luke. Sorry,

Jim Nilsen
02-06-2010, 11:02 AM
I ment Good LUCK not Luke. Sorry,

May the force be with him ,like Luke Skywalker said. Good Luke.

Just had to let that out,Sorry

kochevy67
02-08-2010, 06:54 AM
Buy a cheap Harbor Freight gun and toss it when you are done.

Jim Nilsen
02-08-2010, 04:55 PM
Buy a cheap Harbor Freight gun and toss it when you are done.

If you but a cheap gun air or airless make sure you get the largest tip you can get !

CHILI442
02-10-2010, 02:37 PM
POR sucks! Save your money and buy a quart of Rustoleum. If your frame is rusty, then use some type of rust encapsulator first, then Rustoleum.

MonzaRacer
02-10-2010, 04:53 PM
POR is a rust encapsulator and if you try to use it on squeaky clean frame thats super smooth or completely rust free it doesnt stick well. I helped a guy fix his car up and we used it, too bad he had been intending to paint it so it was sanded smooth, so we used a sander with a 36 grit sanding disc, sat it outside for a couple of weeks, after it got a good coat of rust we simply hit it with scotch brite pads by hand, we wiped it down with the solvent and shot it with the POR 15, sticks great and looks awesome.
IF YOU CANT MAKE POR STICK YOU PROBABLY HAVE SOME ISSUES IN READING THE INSTRUCTIONS.
I only say this as I have helped put it on may cars with zero issues.

Jim Nilsen
02-10-2010, 08:46 PM
POR is a rust encapsulator and if you try to use it on squeaky clean frame thats super smooth or completely rust free it doesnt stick well. I helped a guy fix his car up and we used it, too bad he had been intending to paint it so it was sanded smooth, so we used a sander with a 36 grit sanding disc, sat it outside for a couple of weeks, after it got a good coat of rust we simply hit it with scotch brite pads by hand, we wiped it down with the solvent and shot it with the POR 15, sticks great and looks awesome.
IF YOU CANT MAKE POR STICK YOU PROBABLY HAVE SOME ISSUES IN READING THE INSTRUCTIONS.
I only say this as I have helped put it on may cars with zero issues.

I 2nd that advice.

1 thing most still don't take into account whether you do the prep right or not is that it will stick as good as regular paint and will protect against things like brake fluid and the elements far better.
Just because it will come off if you scrape it by putting it on wrong doesn't make it all bad it just means you shouldn't have scraped the car to begin with and you would have damaged anything else you put on it too.

But when it is done right is a hard and indestructable as the steel itself.

Rustoleum, well it is ok for lawn chairs and such and comes in many colors, but I worked for RPM industries and if it was the best by todays standards they wouldn't have invented ZeroRust which is far superior for, rust protection than rustoleum which is just a top coat to begin with. You still need to use rustoleum primer to do the job right too and that also only works as well as your prep.

I have sprayed POR clear on my lawnmower deck and then sprayed my PPG acrylic enamel over the top when slightly tacky and to this day it is as hard as nails and after 10 years has only had problems where anything would have problems.
You can scrape of the surface of the steel if you try hard enough,LOL

nekkidhillbilly
02-14-2010, 10:06 AM
If you go to WWW.KBS- (http://WWW.KBS-) Coatings.com they have a really nice product for Frames, Motors, Trunk and Floor pan and they have videos show an old gas tank being cleaned repaired and coated all in 1 kit. I have the stuff for my 69 and it is great. Hope that helps you. Good luke and have fun with your project.


i agree on kbs its a better product than por and cheaper

nekkidhillbilly
02-14-2010, 10:08 AM
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/IMG00120200907101727-1.jpg

that is done with kbs

crustysack
02-14-2010, 03:01 PM
rustoleum - :lol:- welcome to 2010 not 1943-
I bought a gallon of POR-15 and did my frame, rear end, the inside of the roof, the trans tunnel, the fire wall, the radiator support, inside the new trunk, the COMPLETE bottom of my 65 GTO, the bumper brackets, the horns, gas tank, front inner fenders, https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/000_0147-1.jpg https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/000_0150-1.jpg https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/643_2309-1.jpg https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/643_2312-1.jpg https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/643_2328-1.jpg https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/643_2332-1.jpg https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/643_2437-1.jpg https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/643_2440-1.jpg https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/Picture032-1.jpg https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/Picture046-1.jpgand I applied it with a brush-you can hit it with a hammer and it wont chip try , I have also tried the KBS coating on a job box and it is also a very good product

fordsbyjay
04-04-2010, 06:37 PM
So where is the best place to buy Por 15?