Chevy24
01-29-2010, 10:02 AM
I'm having the L72 427 lifted from my 1969 Camaro RS Yenko tribute when it is pro-toured. I will be keeping it, the M21 4 speed, and all the other date coded parts.
The engine will be on an engine stand in my garage, as a bit of a showpiece.
So it doesn't rust up or get seized over time with humidity etc, what should I do for the engine? Any tips are appreciated.
======
I did some checking around, & an auto parts store here said to squirt a bit of oil into each spark plug hole, spray CRC engine store spray in the intake and seal off all the holes (or bag-it).
This ties close to what I found on the web (below).
Sound good?
===========
http://www.guy-croft.com/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=1569&view=next (http://www.guy-croft.com/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=1569&view=next)
Drain all coolant and old oil and coat the whole thing incl flywheel and bores and coolant galleries with WD40. WD40 will not hurt any part of the engine whereas moisture will. WD lasts about 4 months even in damp environments but must be renewed. Avoid storing in any location other than a dry garage with stable temperature regime - or similar. Seal up in a large plastic bag (bin liner). Avoid small garden sheds.
The real problem with storage of a previously run block is that the old oil is sulphurous and it can attack the bearings and cause severe corrosion of the crankshaft. This is why it's a good idea to start or at least turn over stored engines once a month or so.
In your case it might be an idea to take the whole block apart or at least somehow get a load of new oil into those galleries before you store it.
==========
http://www.seqair.com/skunkworks/Engine/Storing/Storing.html (http://www.seqair.com/skunkworks/Engine/Storing/Storing.html)
I've been getting a lot of questions recently about storing engines for a long period of time before putting them on your airplane. I quizzed Steve Wilkinson about this, because I remembered that he had done some research on the subject. Steve's method was suggested by a friend, and Mattituck said it made sense.
First, let's define the problem. The internal parts of the engine that are most susceptible to corrosion are the freshly machined surfaces. This includes the polished lobes of the cam shaft, the cylinder walls, and the main bearing surfaces of the crankshaft.
On the typical engine, the cylinder walls are a big concern. The freshly machined interior surfaces of the cylinders are very prone to corrosion until the engine is broken in. Once the engine is run for a while, the steel is coated with a varnish-like substance from the oil that protects it somewhat.
The typical protection against corrosion in the cylinders is to spray LPS-3 oil into the cylinders. LPS-3 is a medium-weight corrosion protection oil that comes in an aerosol can. It's much thicker than the WD-40 or Tri-Flo, and you can get it at shops that sell to machine shops. Call any local machine shop, and they can tell you where to get it.
The spark plugs are normally removed, and you install dehydrator plugs. These are things that screw into the spark plug hole and which hold a desiccant. The desiccant is simply a drying agent, which absorbs moisture from the air, thus preventing it from getting into the engine.
Most people pull the plugs out every couple of months, spray more LPS-3 into the cylinders and turn the engine over a couple of time to insure that the oil stays smeared over the cylinder walls. Steve said he didn't bother with this because his cylinders were Cermichrome cylinders, and there's no risk of the chromium corroding.
Now to protect the insides of the engine, Steve's friend suggested filling the engine with oil, as full as possible, with any kind of oil you can find-and then store the engine upside-down. This insures that the camshaft will remain covered with oil. If a little air space remains, then who cares if there's some corrosion on the inside of the oil sump? With the engine filled with oil and upside-down, the polished surfaces of the crankshaft, cam and the valve train are all bathed in oil.
Steve bought a bag of desiccant from somewhere (Aircraft Spruce? Edmund Scientific? He doesn't remember) and made a sock-like thing from a rag, filled it with desiccant and stuffed it into the intake manifold. Every couple of months, he'd take it out and put the desiccant in the microwave until it turned blue again. All the other openings were taped over.
The only other thing you have to be concerned about is to keep the engine out of areas that have strong humidity and temperature changes. In Steve's barn, for example, sometimes the tools on the wall would gather dew when the air warmed up in the morning after a cold night.
The engine will be on an engine stand in my garage, as a bit of a showpiece.
So it doesn't rust up or get seized over time with humidity etc, what should I do for the engine? Any tips are appreciated.
======
I did some checking around, & an auto parts store here said to squirt a bit of oil into each spark plug hole, spray CRC engine store spray in the intake and seal off all the holes (or bag-it).
This ties close to what I found on the web (below).
Sound good?
===========
http://www.guy-croft.com/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=1569&view=next (http://www.guy-croft.com/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=1569&view=next)
Drain all coolant and old oil and coat the whole thing incl flywheel and bores and coolant galleries with WD40. WD40 will not hurt any part of the engine whereas moisture will. WD lasts about 4 months even in damp environments but must be renewed. Avoid storing in any location other than a dry garage with stable temperature regime - or similar. Seal up in a large plastic bag (bin liner). Avoid small garden sheds.
The real problem with storage of a previously run block is that the old oil is sulphurous and it can attack the bearings and cause severe corrosion of the crankshaft. This is why it's a good idea to start or at least turn over stored engines once a month or so.
In your case it might be an idea to take the whole block apart or at least somehow get a load of new oil into those galleries before you store it.
==========
http://www.seqair.com/skunkworks/Engine/Storing/Storing.html (http://www.seqair.com/skunkworks/Engine/Storing/Storing.html)
I've been getting a lot of questions recently about storing engines for a long period of time before putting them on your airplane. I quizzed Steve Wilkinson about this, because I remembered that he had done some research on the subject. Steve's method was suggested by a friend, and Mattituck said it made sense.
First, let's define the problem. The internal parts of the engine that are most susceptible to corrosion are the freshly machined surfaces. This includes the polished lobes of the cam shaft, the cylinder walls, and the main bearing surfaces of the crankshaft.
On the typical engine, the cylinder walls are a big concern. The freshly machined interior surfaces of the cylinders are very prone to corrosion until the engine is broken in. Once the engine is run for a while, the steel is coated with a varnish-like substance from the oil that protects it somewhat.
The typical protection against corrosion in the cylinders is to spray LPS-3 oil into the cylinders. LPS-3 is a medium-weight corrosion protection oil that comes in an aerosol can. It's much thicker than the WD-40 or Tri-Flo, and you can get it at shops that sell to machine shops. Call any local machine shop, and they can tell you where to get it.
The spark plugs are normally removed, and you install dehydrator plugs. These are things that screw into the spark plug hole and which hold a desiccant. The desiccant is simply a drying agent, which absorbs moisture from the air, thus preventing it from getting into the engine.
Most people pull the plugs out every couple of months, spray more LPS-3 into the cylinders and turn the engine over a couple of time to insure that the oil stays smeared over the cylinder walls. Steve said he didn't bother with this because his cylinders were Cermichrome cylinders, and there's no risk of the chromium corroding.
Now to protect the insides of the engine, Steve's friend suggested filling the engine with oil, as full as possible, with any kind of oil you can find-and then store the engine upside-down. This insures that the camshaft will remain covered with oil. If a little air space remains, then who cares if there's some corrosion on the inside of the oil sump? With the engine filled with oil and upside-down, the polished surfaces of the crankshaft, cam and the valve train are all bathed in oil.
Steve bought a bag of desiccant from somewhere (Aircraft Spruce? Edmund Scientific? He doesn't remember) and made a sock-like thing from a rag, filled it with desiccant and stuffed it into the intake manifold. Every couple of months, he'd take it out and put the desiccant in the microwave until it turned blue again. All the other openings were taped over.
The only other thing you have to be concerned about is to keep the engine out of areas that have strong humidity and temperature changes. In Steve's barn, for example, sometimes the tools on the wall would gather dew when the air warmed up in the morning after a cold night.