wheel stud spinning and bolts not coming out

[elementdeep]

This sucks. I just picked up a car and went to inspect the back brakes. Come to find out one of the rear wheels stud is completely loose, all the happens is the lug just spins. I was able to get the other four lugs off and tried to exert pressure by pulling the wheel up and using an Impact but thats not helping. I'm guessing only thing to do at this point is to drill out the stud and hope not to damage the wheels. Unfortunately the lugs are seated deep within the rim and cutting it off is not an option....

Thoughts?

[mc84_zz4]

C-clip GM axle? Ford 9 inch? what car/axle is it?

If you have to drill it out, chances are the lug will spin too..
Get a reverse thread drill tap, just in case it gives it up early on in the
drilling steps...
You could also use an old deep socket, cut the end off the socket and use it to keep the
lug from spinning, holding it with some vise-grips.

[elementdeep]

1963 impala with factory rear end. Is pulling the axle shaft the best option?

[6'9"Witha69]

1963 impala with factory rear end. Is pulling the axle shaft the best option?
Yes. Pull the axle and cut off the head of the stud from behind.

[mc84_zz4]

1963 impala with factory rear end. Is pulling the axle shaft the best option?
I'm not sure, I hope somebody else can chime in on that one.

In any case, if you did have the axle out, wheel and all, you could weld the stud from behind, and then remove the lug as it 'normally' should... IMO. (or use Mr Grinder wheel, and decapitate the culprit)

Here is a link that may help as a reference:
http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/tech/engines_drivetrain/driveshaft_rearend/0808chp_1966_chevy_el_camino_rear_axle/photo_05.html

"With both C-clips removed, the axles will slide right out with a quick jerk from the hub. If the axle's seals have been replaced recently, take care not to slide the axle splines over the seals, as the seals could rip or tear, causing them to leak fluids."
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/01/0808chp_06_z1966_chevy_el_camino_rear_ax-1.jpg

[elementdeep]

The rim is still on the car....... I can pull the shaft then what, the drum will still be intact and I won't have access to the bolt. A few searches say to drill out the bolt and that may be the most practical option. Ultimately I am having new studs pressed in so I can slap my rushforths on there

[Vegas69]

You would have access to the back of the stud pulling the axle.

[elementdeep]

Thanks for the advise guys, off to pull the axle shaft.

[novaderrik]

if the rim has enough room around the lug nuts, then you can just put a socket on it and snap the stud off with a quick sideways jerk on the breaker bar.

[CHILI442]

I've had a lug nut seize on the stud before, where there was no option to pull the axle (9" ends with Explorer brakes). I cut the end of the lug nut (acorn style) with a Dremel, and drilled down opposite sides of the lug nut with an 1/8" or so bit and then split open the lugnut like a clam shell. Then I could pull the wheel off. Pain in the azz!

[JRouche]

Kinda sounds azz backwards but try using the impact to tighten the nut and pull the stud tight into the axle flange. Do it with all the other nuts off so you can wedge the wheel out some with a bar or board to help hold the stud on the flange while you tighten it. Then use a breaker bar to loosen the nut. You may seat the stud enough to allow the nut to come free. JR

[latamud]

I had this problem on a Ford 9" a few years ago. You can't pull the axle without removing the drum on those. I ended up drilling a small hole in the backing plate and pried against the stud head with a prybar while hitting the nut with an impact to get it off.
The C clips will make it so much easier for you.

[pitts64]

Can you tighten it enough to snap it or reset it like the guy above said...

If you have a small grinder like a dremel why not cut the nut off...

[PRRC]

You wont be able to pull the axle with out getting inside the drum. The retaining ring is bolted with a nut and bolt through the backing plate and axle flange,You could cut the heads off the 4 bolts then you could pull the axle. I might be pretty tough even with the bolts cut. If the brakes are adjusted out and wont slide over the brakes shoes you will tear up the pads and mounting hardware forcing the drum off over the pads. But I you have to save the wheel thats going to be your best bet.
Tim

[monteboy84]

I like the plan of trying to tighten it with a good impact first, then loosening the nut with the impact. It's pretty likely that the lug will re-engage its splines.

[Vegas69]

You wont be able to pull the axle with out getting inside the drum. The retaining ring is bolted with a nut and bolt through the backing plate and axle flange,You could cut the heads off the 4 bolts then you could pull the axle. I might be pretty tough even with the bolts cut. If the brakes are adjusted out and wont slide over the brakes shoes you will tear up the pads and mounting hardware forcing the drum off over the pads. But I you have to save the wheel thats going to be your best bet.
Tim

It's a 12 bolt.

[wiedemab]

It's a 12 bolt.

If I'm not mistaken the early 60's Chevy rear axles were like a 9", 8" Ford with bearing retainers on the axle flange - not C-clips.

I didn't see where he said it was a 12 bolt - sorry if it is and I missed it. The 12 bolt listed in his signature is for a different car than is being discussed here - I think.

[PRRC]

Not if an original 63 Impala rear. They use a center section like a ford 9" does.
It's a 12 bolt.

[monteboy84]

Even if it is a C-Clip rear, don't you have pull the drums in order to push the axles in and release the C-Clip? I realize the cross shaft is mainly what hols the C-clips in place, but on every one I've taken apart, the wheel and drum had to be off to remove the clips.

[Vegas69]

I didn't know that clearly.

[Apogee]

The 58-64 Impala application has an Eaton 8.2" drop-out style rear end, so it's a positively retained, non-c-clip axle housing. Getting the retainer bolts out with the wheel and drum in place would be a trick worthy of Houdini.

I take it you're trying to save the wheel?

I think you should be able to pull the differential, cut the (4) retainer bolts from the inside of the housing end flange, and then pull the backing plate and shoes out from the drum. That should at least give you access to the head of the wheel stud with a grinder or gas axe.

Tobin
KORE3