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68byrd
01-16-2010, 02:14 PM
We just picked up another project. Its a '74 Chevy C10 2wd short box pick-up. Its has a 350 (not running) w/ a TH350. The body/frame are solid but need a little work. Right now were are debating on the power plant. I would like to install a 5.3 or 6.0 gm truck engine, but dont really know how much work is involved with getting one of those to work. I'm sure its not simple. The other option is to build a mild 350 so we can drive the truck and enjoy it. Plus it would be nice to have a vehicle that could haul something. I think we are going approach this thing with the "wheels and stance" strategy. Right now we are thinking a 3/5 drop with 18's. Any opinions, suggestions, or insight are welcome. Thanks for looking!

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/01/100_0823JPG-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/01/100_0825JPG-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/01/100_0830JPG-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/01/100_0831JPG-1.jpg

subtlez28
01-16-2010, 02:20 PM
Get a junkyard 5.3 with a 2wd 4L80E hanging on it. Either get the harness with it or shell out the dough for an aftermarket.

Either way you should be able to do this on the cheap. It has been done many times before and lots of info is on the web.

Pics please!

68byrd
01-16-2010, 02:23 PM
Also, if anyone knows of any good websites/forums for trucks like this, let know. Thanks again.

Mr. Anderson
01-16-2010, 05:31 PM
www.fullsizechevy.com has a section for the square body trucks. Lots of information there! Nice score.

larknut
01-20-2010, 08:12 PM
Have you tried http://67-72chevytrucks.com yet

progoat
01-21-2010, 05:04 AM
I love square body chevy trucks:) ever thought of bigger wheels though? them trucks have big wheelwells I'd go with atleast 20's

srh3trinity
01-24-2010, 07:07 PM
Nice find. I am probably going to pick up a truck too. My wife has a small car and I have a sport ute and I am always having to borrow a truck for lumber, car parts, moving stuff. I was going to do a car project first, but now I am going to buy a nice running truck to tinker with, make it my own and then get my car project. I like the idea of 20's too, the square bodies have a lot of wheel well.

68byrd
01-25-2010, 01:44 PM
Thanks for the input! I would really like to do 18's. Leaning towards Coy's C-55 or Boss Motorsports 338 (gray). I think we can do 8's in the front and 9.5's in the rear. We are going to wait until the lowering is done, then measure.

68byrd
01-25-2010, 01:54 PM
We have settled on the lowering kit. DJM 3" drop front lower control arms and a DJM 5" drop rear axle flip kit. Now we need to figure out the shocks. I can't believe how cheap chevy parts are compared to Pontiac. We also dropped the block off at the machine shop. Its a 75' 4 bolt main 350 w/ stock bore. If the crank is good we are going to reuse it, if it can't be saved, its getting a stroker kit. Our machine guy also hooked us up with a lightly used set of Edelbrock E-Tec aluminum heads and a Performer RPM intake.

srh3trinity
01-25-2010, 02:39 PM
Sounds like things are moving along nicely. The downside of hanging around this board too long is you start thinking every thing you build needs an LSX and full out brakes and suspension. Since I have decided to pick up an old truck, I have started to think about a simple small block setup and mild upgrades so I can enjoy it and use it for what it is designed for. Add nice wheels and a simple but effective brake upgrade and then use the truck to pick up the pro-touring parts for a car build.

Mr. Anderson
01-25-2010, 03:11 PM
We have settled on the lowering kit. DJM 3" drop front lower control arms and a DJM 5" drop rear axle flip kit. Now we need to figure out the shocks. I can't believe how cheap chevy parts are compared to Pontiac. We also dropped the block off at the machine shop. Its a 75' 4 bolt main 350 w/ stock bore. If the crank is good we are going to reuse it, if it can't be saved, its getting a stroker kit. Our machine guy also hooked us up with a lightly used set of Edelbrock E-Tec aluminum heads and a Performer RPM intake.

Careful with those front control arms. I used a set of DJM's arms on my '98, and always had problems with the spring seating. They weld a super-wimpy little "L" piece to the bottom plate on the control arm that is supposed to hold the end of the spring. Whenever you jack the vehicle up in the air, unloading the suspension, the spring would always want to pop out of the arm. If not for the shock running through the center, that spring could tear up a lot of stuff! Never had this problem with the driver's side spring, but the passenger side would do it every time. A huge PITA to fix.

I'd personally stick with the dropped spindle and spring route. You may have to notch the stock lower control arm to fit a 15" wheel, but with an 18" no sweat. It's a far better trade off IMO.

Either way, going to look good with the altitude adjustment!

68byrd
01-25-2010, 06:26 PM
Thanks for the info. I like the concept of the drop lca's. Its gonna be awhile before we get the 18's, so until then we are going to run the stock 15x8's. From what i have read you have to remove alot of metal from the stock lca's with the 3" drop spindles. Also i really don't want to use drop springs. From past experience, they really make the ride stiff. If we have to modify the DJM lca's a little thats not a big deal. We'll see. Thanks again.

srh3trinity- I totaly agree with you, this project is not a high dollar build. Its something to enjoy driving, haul stuff, and look good.

Mr. Anderson
01-25-2010, 07:00 PM
I did the arms for the same reason, wanted to run a 15" wheel. Beef up the spring retainer on the DJMs and it'll probably be fine. I did the 2" arms and 2" springs, then cut another coil off the springs. It was a bit stiff but not bad. With the 7" drop in the back, it didn't do much hauling though, haha.

68byrd
03-03-2010, 08:33 PM
Update: The crank in the block is junk. Its going to be replace with a very lightly used 383 stroker crank. We hope to get the rotating assembly back soon so we can put the engine together and get it dyno tuned in the next couple months. Also, the suspension parts are going to get ordered soon. We scored a rebuilt series 3 Eaton posi unit and are going to install some new Motive Gear 3.73's. My brother found 2 OEM doors in very nice shape as well as 2 clean front fenders. The cab corners came about a week ago and we are waiting to hear about a box in AZ. We are picking up solid body panels when we can find nice pieces at a good price. That is about it so far. Its looks like the 18's are going to have to wait until next year. Oh well, we just sandblasted some nice stock wheels and painted them. They are going to look alot better than the black wagon wheels on the truck now. Hoping to start disassembly soon. Thanks for looking.

796spdbu
03-04-2010, 05:34 PM
If you change the grille...I want dibs.Love the idea. If you go with the Boss 338 check out this link..

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=352320&highlight=boss+338+wheels

There is much talk about those wheels. The 67-72 trucks are basicly the same suspension and these wheels are cheap.

If you have any issues with this truck I have owned over 12 of them in all shapes and forms.

Greg

shortrack
03-05-2010, 09:44 AM
oh oh......another square owner.....the most inexpensive truck on earth to own...Im a member on 67-72 also....great site...IMO build yourself a nice carb 350 or 383 and a 700r4 lower it, some nice wheels and a budget paint job......keep it so you could actually use it as a truck......good luck with that bad boy.

Tony_SS
03-05-2010, 03:02 PM
Running 3" DJM drop springs on mine.. the ride is nice, not too harsh. And I was able to get a decent alignment on it.. handles good for what it is. Go with Bilstein shocks.

E.rodz
03-05-2010, 03:34 PM
looks to be in prety good shape. be careful on how low you go with it. the front crossmember hangs down so low if you go with a 3" drop spindle and cut the coils the stance looks awsome but puts your spine in full compression mode when you hit a big bump. theese are super easy to build your own air ride system for.I think the truck would look better wih 20" wheels it has some huge wheel wells to fill.also the front clip can be switched out to a 81 through 87.there are many different front grill styles availible. had 17's on mine first and just did not fill the wells up enough.but that just my opinion.

68byrd
03-05-2010, 05:06 PM
Tony- Were did you find Bilsteins for a lowered truck? I've looked for them and can't find any. I would really like to use them, We have Bilsteins on the Byrd and love them. Thanks for the input.

68byrd
03-05-2010, 05:08 PM
I have seen the 74-80 trucks with the newer front end. Personally I like the single round headlights and grille better.

ZVT
03-05-2010, 07:18 PM
Always liked those trucks I even did a rendering of it when I was looking to buy one a looooooong time ago...

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

68byrd
03-06-2010, 12:37 PM
Sweet rendering! I really like the lines of these trucks.

Tony_SS
03-06-2010, 12:49 PM
Tony- Were did you find Bilsteins for a lowered truck? I've looked for them and can't find any. I would really like to use them, We have Bilsteins on the Byrd and love them. Thanks for the input.

Summit. They are a heavy duty shock and should do fine with a 3/5 drop.

I went with Nitro Drop shocks to save a few buck.. and they arent bad.. but I got what I paid for.

68byrd
03-06-2010, 07:17 PM
You guys that have lowered these trucks. What kind of c-notch/channel are your running in the rear?

796spdbu
03-07-2010, 05:54 AM
Bell tech has a nice kit for these trucks that includes axle flip bracket,c-notch,u-bolts,and shock relocators/extenders. When I did my 83' I used a new set of weld on axle preches fron Jegs(they were like $9) and made my own shock brakcets. My truck was a special order and had a few more rear springs in the pack,so I had plenty of room between the axle tubes and the frame. I didnt notch my frame. Some of the other trucks I have built I used 3/16" steel plate and used the metal brake at work to bend the plate into a U shape. Hope this helps.

Greg

68byrd
03-07-2010, 06:30 AM
796spdbu- Thanks for the info. Our truck is a camper special and has more leaf springs than a regular truck also. I think I'm gonna waint until the drop is done and see what kind of clearance there is between the axle and frame before I order a c-notch. I am going to order shocks for a lowered truck. I don't like how low the shock extenders hang. Thanks again.

796spdbu
03-07-2010, 11:55 AM
68byrd,Thats why I didnt use them and made my own.Be warned that if you do nothing to change the angle of the shocks..they lay a a very hard angle(around 50-60 degree).It all depends on how much welding you want to do. Ill look for the part number and manufacture of the brackets I used. I had plenty of clearance between axle and frame. Im thinking it was around 4". If there is anby other questions let me know.

Greg

N2TRUX
03-20-2010, 01:53 PM
You guys that have lowered these trucks. What kind of c-notch/channel are your running in the rear?It really depends on how low you plan to go. You can do a simple bolt in notch, or build your own from 6" pipe.

N2TRUX
03-20-2010, 02:04 PM
FYI- That notch will allow you to sit like the pic below with 20's..:)

68byrd
03-26-2010, 08:38 PM
We finally started getting some decent weather here in the great white north. We had a full day of tear down and got a lot of work done. The suspension parts are ordered and should be coming. We are in process of reassembling the rear with the new gears, posi unit and rebuild kit.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/03/tear20down20004-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/03/tear20down20006-1.jpg
The frame is very solid with only minor surface rust and no heavy pitting, this truck is definatly not from around here.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/03/tear20down20027-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/03/tear20down20029-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/03/tear20down20044-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/03/tear20down20047-1.jpg
Pressure washed the frame. Its amazing what water @ 250 degrees and 450psi can clean off.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/03/tear20down20053-1.jpg

N2TRUX
03-27-2010, 06:27 AM
.... I think I'm gonna wait until the drop is done and see what kind of clearance there is between the axle and frame before I order a c-notch...... With only a 4" drop you should be just fine. With that said, I would still do the C-notch. It's so much easier to do now while the bed is off.

I can tell you from my experience I don't think I have ever heard someone want "less" drop. They almost always want more....:)

srh3trinity
03-27-2010, 08:49 AM
Looks like you are making nice progress.

N2Trux, you probably have the best looking square body C10 that I have seen. Yours always pops into my mind when I think about buying/building one of these.

LMDGUY
03-27-2010, 02:27 PM
awsome! round headlights look the best, I think. I finally got my 73 back from paint

N2TRUX
03-28-2010, 06:15 AM
....N2Trux, you probably have the best looking square body C10 that I have seen. Yours always pops into my mind when I think about buying/building one of these.Thank you for the kind words regarding my truck.

68byrd
03-28-2010, 06:54 AM
LMD- We need to see some pics of your truck.

LMDGUY
03-28-2010, 08:07 AM
LMD- We need to see some pics of your truck.

well I took it too SEMA in 2008. Paint was damaged during shipping and I wasnt very happy with it anyways.. So I had it all redone.

68byrd
04-20-2010, 06:46 PM
Sorry, its been a while since I've posted. The good news is we have really gotten a lot done. My brother and dad have been doing most of the work. We decided to removed the cab from the frame and clean up the entire frame. It wasn't that much more work to do and it would make the frame refinishing much easier.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/04/runner20005-1.jpg

The axle and leafs were removed and the frame was sand blasted. The frame is in very good shape, only light surface rust which blasted off easily.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/04/runner20013-1.jpg

Then the front suspension came off and the front was cleaned up

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/04/runner220001-1.jpg

srh3trinity
04-20-2010, 07:01 PM
And this is the point where the "while we have it down to the frame, we might as well...." starts up. Looks like great progress. Keep up with the updates for us.

68byrd
04-20-2010, 07:05 PM
We then painted the frame using KBS coatings Rust Seal. Its a very nice self-leveling frame paint. It turned out really nice and was fairly easy to apply. At least thats what I'm told. They (brother and dad) again did the work. Its a very hard finish, should be pretty tough.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/04/runner220007-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/04/runner220012-1.jpg

After getting the frame finished the axle was installed. We are reusing the stock axles w/ a rebuild Eaton Posi unit and new 3.73 gears. The axle is the stock GM truck 12 bolt that came in the truck. All the bearings and seals have also been replaced. It was painted using VHT chassis and roll bar paint.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/04/runner20019-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/04/runner220026-1.jpg

We removed the overload plus one leaf spring and installed the DJM 5" flip kit.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/04/runner220025-1.jpg

Then put on the stock 15x8 truck rallys we refinshed with 275/50 R15 BFG Radial T/A's. Its starting look like a vehicle again!

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/04/runner220033-1.jpg

68byrd
04-20-2010, 07:13 PM
We opted to go with the DJM front lower control arms w/ a 3" drop built in. They are nice arms but we didnt like the silver hammer-tone paint. So they were stripped, which was a PITA, and painted with the KBC Rust Seal.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/04/runner220029-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/04/runner220047-1.jpg

We cut half a coil off the front coils and reused them. All the front end parts we reused were blasted and repainted. All bushings were replaced with Energy Suspension Urathane bushings. The front brakes were replaced with stock parts.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/04/runner220054-1.jpg

68byrd
04-20-2010, 07:16 PM
The rims for the front are 15x7 rallys that we refinshed. Its officially a roller!

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/04/runner220059-1.jpg

Its come a long way from this...

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/04/runner20005-1.jpg

796spdbu
04-20-2010, 07:24 PM
Nice work! Its always a good idea to strip one down to the bare frame and work up. Makes it much nicer in the end! Looks like you(dad/brother) are moving on pretty quickly.


Greg

68byrd
04-20-2010, 07:29 PM
We picked up the rotating assembly w/ other parts on sunday. Here are the stats:

-74 Chevy 350 w/ 4 bolt mains bored .030 over
-Eagle 383 crankshaft
-Eagle SIR 5.700 rods
-Silvolite Claimer 383 Flat Top pistons
-Edelbrock E-TEC 170 Aluminum heads
-Edelbrock Peformer RPM Air Gap intake
-Comp Cams Thumpr cam

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/04/runner220040-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/04/runner220070-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/04/runner220071-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/04/runner220074-1.jpg

68byrd
04-20-2010, 07:37 PM
Thanks Greg. I work on it too! I promise. We work on it at our parents house in their shop. My brothers house is about 3 miles from there and mine is about 50. I try to put in as much work as I can, but they are way ahead of me as far as hours right now. Thanks again.

68byrd
05-13-2010, 04:15 PM
We have the engine almost all buttoned up. The dyno day is set for May 28th. I hope to get some good pics and mabe some video. I know if you've seen one engine dyno'd you seen them all, but its still cool. I hope the Thumpr cam makes some decent power/torque, we shall see! Here are some more engine pics. I wish MSD had a black cap available for the distributor.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/05/100_1145JPG-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/05/100_1141JPG-1.jpg

Tig
05-13-2010, 05:57 PM
Wow, looks great. Nice work.
What size rear wheels are you using? 15x?
Thanks

68byrd
05-13-2010, 06:03 PM
The fronts are 15"x7" and rears are 15"x8". Thanks.

N2TRUX
05-14-2010, 04:13 AM
..... I wish MSD had a black cap available for the distributor. Sounds like a job for Krylon 1613.

68byrd
05-31-2010, 04:56 AM
The engine was dyno tuned on friday. I have to say I am very impressed with Scott @ S1 Dyno. He was very knowlegable. The engine started right away and ran pretty well from the word go. The cam was broken in, then the fun began. We started @ 32 deg timing. The vacuum advance was disconnected. With 32 we were getting some detonation on the high end. The timing was backed off to 25. More runs were completed and we found the best safe numbers were @ 27 deg. Then the carb was tuned. The carb didn't need much work. Its a holley 750 double pumper w/ vacuum secondaries and an electric choke. Its a 4160 base instead of a 4150. When eveything was said and done, the numbers were 472 hp and 510 lb ft of torque. Overall were are really happy, especially with all the bad " reviews " I've read about the THUMPER cam.

OyQdyiDrxhE

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/05/dyno20day20010-1.jpg

N2TRUX
08-12-2010, 06:37 PM
Any updates?

68byrd
08-13-2010, 05:31 PM
Sorry its been so long for an update. We have been working on the Byrd to get it ready for Car Craft Summer nationals and just buttoning up some little things. I will post pics and more updates soon. Thanks for the interest.

68byrd
08-13-2010, 06:12 PM
The engine is done, so that is checked off the list. The transmission should be done here soon. We are using a 700R4 with the Monster Transmissions "monster-in-a-box" SS Mega monster kit. The trans is being built by a local guy we have used before. With the numbers that the engine put up on the dyno we need something that will hold together. After doing some research it sounds like the TV cable adjustment and temperature and the things that are critical with a 700R4. We are going to run an aluminum radiator with a built in trans cooler and also an external cooler to keep the fluid temps down. We haven't picked a TV set-up yet, that is still under investigation.

68byrd
08-13-2010, 06:35 PM
The original box sides were in tough shape so we set out to find a new box. After many hours of looking online and calling around, we thought we had one in Duluth, MN. We drove up there (3hr one way) to find the box was not what we thought it was. So we left it there and came home empty handed. A week later we found a really nice box with an Access roll-up cover and a cab with full black interior about 20min from home. The box needs little to no work. The truck was in an accident so the cab itself was junk, but all the interior parts we needed were there and in good condition. Our truck is originally a work truck with no interior trim, the trim that was there is blue. So we gutted the cab and scrapped it. The original cab from our truck is pretty clean, there are some minor rust spots on the floors, rockers and cab corners, but no damage. The floor pans, rockers and cab corners are cheap and you need to learn to body work sometime, so we started cutting. My dad did body work back in the day and he is a perfectionist so we had a good teacher.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/08/progress20001-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/08/progress20002-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/08/progress20004-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/08/progress20007-1.jpg

After the rotted panels were removed, the interior was masked off and the surrounding metal was sand blasted.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/08/progress20008-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/08/progress20010-1.jpg

The new panels were then trimmed to fit and messaged to fit nice and tight.

N2TRUX
08-14-2010, 06:31 AM
Thanks for sharing. Lots of great projects on this site, but not too many truck build to enjoy. Keep us updated when you can.

68byrd
08-20-2010, 07:52 PM
I opted to cut the stock springs to lower the front down a little more. This has created a problem because the spring will not stay
centered in the lower control arm and is binding on upper spring pocket. Instead of going the lowering spring path, we have decided to go with air bags up front. This will let us adjust where the truck will ride without removing the spring and cutting or replacing it. I am currently researching what set-up to use. I am leaning towards the suicidedoors.com front bag/ plate kit. Right now it will just have schrader valves to inflate and deflate bags since i am not planning on changing the ride height after we get is where we want it.

68byrd
08-20-2010, 08:01 PM
The new pass side sheet metal is fitted and tacked into place. The door needs to be hung to check how the panels line up before its finish welded and seam sealed.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/08/more20progress20001-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/08/more20progress20004-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/08/more20progress20005-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/08/more20progress20007-1.jpg

Here are some pics of the chassis with the new box sitting on it.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/08/more20progress20009-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/08/more20progress20010-1.jpg

68byrd
08-20-2010, 08:20 PM
The gauges were are going to use are Autometer Sport Comp Ultra Lites. I have modified a stock gauge trim panel so the new ones will fit. I used a gauge panel that was already cut around the radio as a test panel. The gauge panel that will be used is black. I have seen a couple of these trucks with Autometer gauges and they just don't look right because the gauge panel tilts away from the driver on the bottom side making the gauges hard to read. I mocked up the gauges with some angle mounts from Autometer to tip the gauges so you can see the entire face. I think i could make my own angle mounts that don't stick out so far. I need to make some angle mounts for the 5" tach and speedo as Autometer does not make them for that size. What do you guys think?

Gauges w/ angle mounts

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/08/gauges20002-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/08/gauges20003-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/08/gauges20004-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/08/gauges20006-1.jpg

Gauges w/o angle mounts

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/08/gauges20008-1.jpg

N2TRUX
08-21-2010, 05:00 AM
If your not sure which way to go, here's an options-

LINK (http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=405465&page=2)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/08/P7240066-1.jpg

GHOSTDANCER
08-21-2010, 05:21 AM
That's a great looking engine :cheers:

68byrd
08-23-2010, 06:02 PM
We had some time on sunday so we grabbed one of the Pro Car Rally seats and installed it to see how it looked, and also just to sit in it. Gotta stay motivated! We are going to use a TCI Outlaw pistol grip shifter so we set that in there to just to get a feel for it. I like the card board box, but we are going to be making some kind of console between the seats. The seats are great, they are very comfortable and look like something that could be OEM.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/08/seat20001-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/08/seat20004-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/08/seat20009-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/08/seat20010-1.jpg

N2TRUX
08-24-2010, 05:02 AM
Those seats look great in there. I think a little carbon fiber tape on that box, and your good to go...;)

68byrd
04-05-2011, 07:48 PM
Finally, some updates. Snowmobiling projects are done, another trip out west is in the books. Back to car projects. The pass side floor board, rocker and cab corner have all been replaced with new metal. The drivers side got the same treatment. New floor board, rocker (inner and outer) and cab corner are now installed. The cab needs to be tipped so the bottom can be sand blasted and painted. There are also a couple spot welds that need to be done too.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/04/100_1738JPG-1.jpg
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68byrd
04-05-2011, 07:59 PM
We figured we would drop the engine and trans in the chassis. This way we can figure out where to position the new transmission crossmember. We opted for a different crossmember to give us better clearance for exhaust and also adjustability of the angle of driveshaft. Also bolted on the headers to check the clearance. You have to love the room on these trucks. We're not use to this after working on the byrd. It looks like the drivetrain angles are pretty good. With the flip kit installed on the rear axle the drive shaft angle going to the pinion yoke is much better than stock. The plan is to blast the bottom of the cab this weekend and try to get it back on the frame.

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68byrd
10-21-2011, 03:12 AM
Its been a busy summer. Lots of weddings (mine included). Finally got a little time to work on the truck last weekend. looking at my last post, I have some updates to do. The floor boards in the cab have been replaced, seam sealed and painted with KBS rust seal coating top and bottom.

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68byrd
10-21-2011, 03:35 AM
When the cab dried, we put it on the frame with new mounts and bolts from LMC. With the cab on the frame we decided the install the airbags and plates on the front.

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The DJM lower control arms are made for steel springs so we had to modify them to accept the lower airbag cup. Some people like to weld the cups on to the lower arms. Others have the cup sit in the spring pocket. We removed the spring stop to make room for the cup. We also removed the sway bar mounts and bump stops for now. Once the truck is back together we will figure out where we want the bump stops and sway bar mounts and weld them back on.

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We welded pieces of 1/2" rod on the the lower control arm to form a pocket for the cup to sit in. This will keep the airbag in a postion where it doesn't rub.
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irregal83
10-21-2011, 07:49 AM
trucks comin together nicely!