64 Falcon "Sprint"

[fordsbyjay]

I have been popping in and out the last few years but have never put up any pictures of my car so I figured it was time. It is a 64 Falcon Sprint that I bought back in 04. It was from Oklahoma City originally but I acquired it from a fellow in Wisconsin who got it from some guy that owed him some money. I have looked for a lot of years for the right car at the right price and I think I did pretty good. The car had a restoration about 15 years ago and it is 'typical' work. The outside looks pretty good but the floor pans had a nice layer of tar, tin and rivets on it covered up by underspray. Real nice. It drove pretty nice but the 4 wheel drums sucked. The 4 speed was old and clunky but still fun to drive.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/01/18_1-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/01/17_1-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/01/39_1-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/01/aa_1-1.jpg

[fordsbyjay]

Not being very comfortable with the poor braking that was the first issue I tackled. I bought a kit from vintagevenom.com to bolt on latemodel 13" Cobra R brakes. I had some run out problems with the old spindles and Rob&Ron at vintage had excellent customer service to help me sort it out.

I had to add some 98 17x8 Cobra R wheels to clear the new brakes. I also added a CNC dual master cyl kit from Autoworks Int.
The pedal had a very hard feel to it and I never did like it. I swapped out to smaller M/C and it was a little better and the travel was 'nice' so I left it there. I figured I would try and tune it more when I get rear discs done.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/01/13inchbrakekit2-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/01/IMGP4170-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/01/11201094395-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/01/S5030831-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/01/S5030835-1.jpg

[CruizinKev]

looks good! :twothumbs

[fordsbyjay]

I drove it like this for awhile when I wanted to install my distributorless ignition. This is what started the kaos for the next two years. To bought a crank trigger kit for a 3 bolt balancer and the sensor mount was all fubar. Electromotive clearly had never installed one of these thats for sure. So I figured I will just get a new balancer with a dual pattern and install the 94/95 short timing cover setup I have. Well that led to a mess as well because that p/u mount did not fit properly either. The alternator also would hit the valve cover with the new setup. So I modified the p/u mount and made some new alternator brackets.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/01/customaltbracket021-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/01/customaltbracket1-1.jpg

Of course then I had to change the radiator inlet/outlets to match the Stuart Components pump. I bought a radiator from Northern Rad for a latemodel Mustang. It was complete with shroud and dual fans.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/01/S50321601-1.jpg

Of course the opening was much wider so I had to remove about 6" of the grill opening.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/01/S5032155-1.jpg

I ended up making some changes to the front bracket to get more wrap on the front pulley. The reason I went to all this trouble is when I add the a/C and power steering life will be easier (I hope).
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/01/IMG00136-1.jpg

[fordsbyjay]

While it was sitting there I figured "why not put some subframe connectors in". Hahahaha. This is when I found the awesome floor pan tar & tin restoration. So while putting in the subframe connectors I ended up making new floors.

I tied the subframes into the rocker panels with X-bracing.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/01/subframe-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/01/subframe71-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/01/rearsubframe21-1.jpg

I figured while I was doing all this fabricating it was the perfect time to install the T56 I bought for it the previous year. Well lucky me I went to take out the old 4 speed and found out I had a 5 bolt 289. I ended up using a spare 6 bolt 289 / T56 for mock-up. I read articles on how you can swap a T56 in with no cutting and there is no way you can do it and have any kind of proper drive line angles. So I cut some more floor out to make room.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/01/enginesetback3-1.jpg

[1971CHEVELLE]

looks very good

[fordsbyjay]

Like all things I do I figured "well I have to make a new transmission mount so lets smooth out the firewall and move the engine back 1" and lower it to get more room for the T56..

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/01/smoothfirewall1-1.jpg

I also removed the CNC setup and put some Wilwood pedals and M/Cyl's.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/01/IMG00028-1.jpg

That is pretty much where it is at now. I have been saving up to be rear tires for the back. I have 17x8's now but I want to use a 17x10.5 with a 315 tire.

I bought a Griggs racing torque arm setup for the rear suspension last fall as well.
This is what it WILL look like when I get it installed.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/01/RearSuspensionviewfrombackofcar-1.jpg

[CruizinKev]

wow nice man :twothumbs:

[Bryce]

this looks great!!

what tires are you running in the front?

[SDS MACHINING]

Nice work, looks really good

[MK70]

While it was sitting there I figured "why not put some subframe connectors in". Hahahaha. This is when I found the awesome floor pan tar & tin restoration. So while putting in the subframe connectors I ended up making new floors.

I tied the subframes into the rocker panels with X-bracing.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/01/subframe-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/01/subframe71-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/01/rearsubframe21-1.jpg




Through the floor subframe connectors tied to the rockers AND X bracing. Wow, You don't do things half way do you? :)
Nice work. Gonna be nice!

[fordsbyjay]

this looks great!!

what tires are you running in the front?

They are BFG KDW 225's. I should have went bigger and I really didn't know why I didn't to be honest with you. I am sure a 235 would have fit. I am going to see if I can squeeze a 245 up there.


MK70, I don't want to put a roll bar in this car so I was trying to get the unibody as stiff as I can. I am trying to think how I can put some X bracing behind the firewall and back seat panel to try and stiffen it up more.

[Cole]

Nice man, THE SPRINT's are rad!!!!

[Bryce]

awesome, i was able to fit a 245 on all four. I love the subframes. Flippen cool.

[windsor]

very nice! you know you want to put a BBF in it ;)

[fordsbyjay]

very nice! you know you want to put a BBF in it ;)

Hahahaha, like an aluminum hemi! I wish, It will most likely the Bennett Racing 382 windsor that is in my T-bucket and I'll pop the old 289 back in the bucket.

[bigshotsho93]

cool car. i really like the X bracing from the connectors to the rocker.

[MoparCar]

Which rear LCA/shock mount did you use on your rear axle?
Thanks, Wes

[fordsbyjay]

Which rear LCA/shock mount did you use on your rear axle?
Thanks, Wes

That was a picture I found from Griggs. I have not installed my rear suspension yet as I am saving up for wheels and tires. It is designed to attach where the front of the leaf spring mounts. The lower bracket welds to the spring perch and has three threaded holes for the lower shock mounting. There is a cross member that the upper shock mounts too. This is one of the things where the mustang varies from the Falcon. All their stuff is designed for Mustangs and not Falcons so I am sure I will have to tweak some of it.

[454bug]

Project looks great Jason! :twothumbs

I really like the floor modifications as well.

By the way, I'm from Lafayette, La. also...

[fordsbyjay]

Project looks great Jason! :twothumbs

I really like the floor modifications as well.

By the way, I'm from Lafayette, La. also...

I remember seeing a picture of your car and new you were from around here but I couldn't remember where I had seen it. There is a fellow on the bbf site that is swapping a BBF into a bug and I was trying to find a link to show him.

[Ratty 46]

Nice job so far ..... I miss my 64 F/sprint ....

Ratty 46

[fordsbyjay]

Been busy working out of town to do any work on the car but I did order some rear wheels to match the fronts. They should be in before I make it home.

They are 17x10.5's from OEWheelsllc. They are not the same brand but as close as a match as I can find. The fronts are Ford Cobra R wheels and they are the only wheel with the correct backspacing and clearance for the 13" Brembo brakes. Because they are slightly different I went with the deep dish wheels in the rear to try and hide it some. Looking at different pictures on their website depending on the light the silver matches in one picture and is a bit off in another. If it looks like crap they were very cheap on sale so later I will switch to something else.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/03/OEwheels17x10_5-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/01/11201094395-1.jpg

[windsor]

should look good. If you get them and the color is off you could always just spray them or powder coat or something.

[fordsbyjay]

Well I finally got home from work (I work out of town) and got my new tires mounted on the wheels. They are 315/35-17's on 17x10.5 OE Wheels. Isn't it amazing how tall the sidewall still looks even though they are 17's. LOL. As soon as I get finished installing some shocks on my Tbucket there is going to be some serious work going on at my place.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/03/DSC03584-1.jpg

[windsor]

Looking forward to seeing them on the car! I'm kind of questioning my wheel/tire choice so it's good to see other Falcs with varying looks!

(I still say you put a BBF in it:rolleyes:)

[Bryce]

Jason,

Where does the LCA on your suspension? is it inboard of the stock spring eye? Are you doing a full tub in the back or just to the frame rails?

[CruizinKev]

looking good! but need to polish the lips of the front rims to match the rears :)

[fordsbyjay]

Jason,

Where does the LCA on your suspension? is it inboard of the stock spring eye? Are you doing a full tub in the back or just to the frame rails?

Right now the tires hit the leaf springs so I can't put them on all the way. The LCA brackets are made to mount on the leaf spring pad but I need to move that inboard to make room for the larger tire. I have some 4-link brackets that look to be the trick if I wack the top off of them. They are from Strange engineering and will allow me some multiple shock height settings on the back and multiple LCA settings on the front.

As far as wheel space I did some measuring before I bought the tires and a 315 should fit with some frame rail trimming towards the rear of the wheel well. If it looks like it will need to much I have a set of rear frame rails from Autoweld and I will just cut the factory ones out and be done with it. I want enough room so there will be no rubbing with the 315's and to be able to fit a MT 325 drag radial.

[Bryce]

very cool, thanks Jason. As you know I am working on my 3-link. Well I have something to look forward to. I dont want to cut the frames so I might be limited to a 275 maybe a 295.

[Bjkadron]

Very cool! I'm starting to like these little falcons!

[1bad87ss]

The wheels will definately improve over the slots..

[fordsbyjay]

So I have been busy adding some bracing to the front of my car. I am not totally finished but I will have to go to work tomorrow so I wanted to get enough done to get some paint on all the new steel.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/04/bracing2-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/04/DSC03635-1.jpg

I am getting close to starting my rear suspension so I wanted to get the front end down to the proper height. Plus I wanted to see a little progress. :yum:

Before.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/04/falcononstands1-1.jpg

So I cut 1 1/2 coils out of the front spring to get it down. It went down a little more than I wanted it too but not by much.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/04/DSC03633-1.jpg

I was going to start with 2 full coils but I am sure glad I didn't
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/04/DSC03634-1.jpg

[bamadale]

i really like that Falcon! i love the stance

[injcted]

badass looks sweet. Great progress on

[Bryce]

looks good

[torino420]

I like it, can't wait to see what you do for the rear suspension.

[windsor]

very nice...like the bracing.

[Fast68back]

Nice Work!

[fordsbyjay]

So I pulled the rear end out today. It looks like a mopar 8 3/4 to me so I will have to post some pics and maybe someone can identify it for me.

I tried to get the new wheels in there but they were hitting the bump stop. I got out the grinder with a 6" cut off wheel and the sawzall. Trimmed the inner wheel tub right along a crease line and along the frame rail. Then drilled out the spot welds for the trunk lid mount.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/04/minitub9-1.jpg

And whala, the inner wheel welll fell out on the ground.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/04/minitub4-1.jpg

Next in when the new wheel.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/04/minitub2-1.jpg

I need to get it down some more but as you can see it is hitting the frame rail still. I have to decide if I want to 'move' the factory spot welded subframe over, notch it enough to clear the bigger tires, or just cut it out and replace it all together with the autoweld frame rails I bought. I really think I would like at least 2" of clearance so by the time I notch it there will be nothing left.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/04/minitub1-1.jpg

Cheers!

[injcted]

Car looks good man! What size tire is that in the rear im running a 295 just mini tubbing it

[fordsbyjay]

Car looks good man! What size tire is that in the rear im running a 295 just mini tubbing it

It is a 315/35-17 on a 17x10.5" rim. I thought about running an 18x10 with a 295 tire ( so I could using a matching KDW tire) but I could not find any silver 18x10 rims.

[fordsbyjay]

I cut out the other wheel well today and lowered the car a couple more inches. I think it needs to come down about another 1/2".

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/04/DSC03652-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/04/DSC03651-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/04/DSC03655-1.jpg

[windsor]

:smoke:

me gusta! going to be very hot stuff!

[fordsbyjay]

Well after a day of trying to decide which way to go with my frame clearance I decided to remove the factory rear rails and use the ones I got from Autoweld. So after a couple of real fun afternoons I finally got the factory rails out. I drilled all the spot welds so I could save the frame rails. They are not reproduced so for someone that has rusted rails they can be invaluable.

You can see the Autoweld rail next to the factory rails.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/04/DSC03657-1.jpg

And a bit more room now. When I get the new rails in I will trim everything up for more clearance.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/04/DSC03658-1.jpg

[Bryce]

looks great. I agree with your choice!

[fordsbyjay]

It has been awhile so I figured I would throw up a couple more pics.

Here is the new Autoweld rails with the 17x10.5's.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/08/DSC04127-1.jpg

Here is with the Ricks gas tank in place.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/08/DSC04129-1.jpg

Here shows the tire clearance. I left enough room for a 325 drag radial or a 335 should I decide to step up.:jump: You can also see my cobra gas cap roughly where it is going to go.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/08/DSC04132-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/08/DSC04130-1.jpg

[CruizinKev]

looking good! nice progress :twothumbs

[j-tan]

Nice car. I love the way the cobra rims look on your car. Can't wait to see it done.

[Bryce]

Jason,

What wheels did you use in the front. Are those 17 x 8s?

[wellis77]

I missed the last couple updates. Progress looks good. I like the Lemans filler cap, I'm doing the same thing on mine, though I will be recessing it a bit. If you don't mine me asking, what did Autoweld get for shipping the rails? Are they 2x3 or 2x4? Thanks. I love the builds of these compact cars. Nice work.

[Bryce]

Jason,

With stock frame rails and a minitub what is the largest rear tire you could fit. Also any idea on backspace. I have a good deal on wheels from centerline that I dont want to pass up.

Do you think a 275/40/17 would fit on a 17 x 9.5 with a 6.5" backspace. This is with no leaf springs.

[fordsbyjay]

Sorry I didn't see the last few questions.


Jason,

What wheels did you use in the front. Are those 17 x 8s?
Bryce they are Ford Racing 17x8 Cobra R wheels. My car has a brake kit from Vintage venom that uses spacers to run the late model wheel. I am not sure how that would all fit into your front suspension.
http://www.fordracingparts.com/parts/part_details.asp?PartKeyField=2438
Fits 1994-2004
5-lug, 4.5" bolt circle
5.72" backspacing
30mm offset
17" x 8" wide


I missed the last couple updates. Progress looks good. I like the Lemans filler cap, I'm doing the same thing on mine, though I will be recessing it a bit. If you don't mine me asking, what did Autoweld get for shipping the rails? Are they 2x3 or 2x4? Thanks. I love the builds of these compact cars. Nice work.

Too be honest I bought them about 3 years ago and I don't remember exactly but I think they are around $240. Can't remember how much shipping was. They are 2x3 11 gauge.
autoweld rails (http://autoweldchassis.com/spec.ivnu)


Jason,

With stock frame rails and a minitub what is the largest rear tire you could fit. Also any idea on backspace. I have a good deal on wheels from centerline that I dont want to pass up.

Do you think a 275/40/17 would fit on a 17 x 9.5 with a 6.5" backspace. This is with no leaf springs.

Here is a couple pics with the 315's and the stock rails. Mind you there is zero clearance on the fender side in these pics. I am going to cut out my outer inner wheel well because I think a little more room is to be had back there. There is alot of clearance at the front of the wheel it is at the rear of the wheel tub where the frame rolls out and takes up all the room. I would think a 275 would easily fit with some trimming. As far as the rearend I am not sure on backspacing. My car did not have an original rearend and I ordered a new 9" to fit the back spacing on my 17x10.5's.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/04/DSC03655-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/04/DSC03654-1.jpg

[fordsbyjay]

So I got my rear end last week from Schreiner racing. When I had ordered it they were supposed to just ship the leaf spring mounts and I was going to weld them on. I guess Ron felt he was going to do me a favor by welding them on but he welded them on with about 9* of pinion angle in there and I need them straight perpendicular to the pinion.

Anyways I made/modified the Griggs TA cross member today. I have lowered the car so much the rearend is actually slightly higher then the transmission so I am not sure how this is all going to turn out. I spoke with Bruce Griggs today and he said they build alot of cars like that so it made me feel a little more confident. Needless to say I am going to mock it all up then take some measurements and see how it is going to work. You would think with all the mods I have done I could put stuff where ever I want but I am still limited by space. Packaging it all in there is still a big problem.

Sometimes it gets old having to fabricate everything because nothing is off the shelf for you car. The GR 350 kit is a Mustang kit and nothing is even close to fitting. I new there is slight differences between the Mustang and Falcon but holy cow they are way different. Then to make things better I cut and modified the heck out of the stock Falcon stuff so............

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/09/DSC04162-1.jpg[/IMG]

As you can see the pic below the lca/shock bracket ends up being about 11* ahead instead of straight up and down or better yet 2* sticking back. I will have to either cut the leaf spring pad off or I was thinking about cutting a 11* angle off of my brackets so they would be straight to the ground (if that makes any sense).
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/09/DSC04168-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/09/DSC04169-1.jpg

I haven't decided on brakes yet. The only parking brake calipers from Wilwood are either for the 0.820 rotor and the 1.00 rotor. I will cross that bridge when the time gets there. :firefire:

[Bryce]

Jason,

Thanks for the answers. I hope the wheels I just ordered fit. But seeing your pictures are giving me some hope. plus a 275 is about 1.25" narrower than a 315, so I should have good clearance.

Your updates look good. I would just cut off the perches and weld on some circle track LCA and C/O mounts. It would be lighter and cleaner.

[fordsbyjay]

Jason

Your updates look good. I would just cut off the perches and weld on some circle track LCA and C/O mounts. It would be lighter and cleaner.

Thanks Bryce. I already cut the griggs mount to correct the problem. I didn't feel like waiting for some more parts.

[LeighP]

Nce work, love those 60's Falcons. My first car was an Aussie 66 Falcon.

[Bryce]

Thanks Bryce. I already cut the griggs mount to correct the problem. I didn't feel like waiting for some more parts.

I know what you mean, I hate waiting for parts too.

[67and68]

Jason,
Awesome project! How do you like the 13" Cobra R brakes? How do you think they compare to other brake options?

[fordsbyjay]

Jason,
Awesome project! How do you like the 13" Cobra R brakes? How do you think they compare to other brake options?

I found them very hard at first so I had to step down to a much smaller master cylinder (13/16" for the front). I didn't drive it a lot though before ripping the rear suspension out so I can't give any long term opinion.

[fordsbyjay]

It has been awhile since I worked on the car but I did get the rearend in place. I need to fab a new shock mount/watts link frame as the Mustang one is no where near close to fitting. I have been saving lately so not to much car funds. What little money I do have after paying two college tuitions this month I spent on my T-bucket.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/01/PC190003-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/01/PC190007-1.jpg

[fordsbyjay]

Oh, I am a big fat lier, I just remembered that I ordered a hood and trunk lid from Crites. They said a couple weeks but everyone says they take forever. Seems how I am in no rush I figured I would order it now and if it takes longer then so be it. Last time I worked on the car I was working on the trunk hinges. I ditched the factory unit and I have some new Ford units for an 06 Mustang. They are much smaller and use a short hydraulic lift. They also open up way more. Sorry, I don't have any pics of that.

[Bryce]

Nice, progress is still progress. Check out my updates. I forgot about your falcon and yes it still a 3-link!

[fordsbyjay]

I've been watching your thread Bryce I just don't post much.

[csx4766]

WOW, Just read the tread beginning to end. Love the project and bracing on the inner fender and front area. Good Job from one cajun to another. I grew up in Abbeville. I will be following your build and look forward to updates.

[FRENCHBLUE72]

This is gonna be a killer little car. Whats up with the flopper body mounted on the ceiling?

[fordsbyjay]

This is gonna be a killer little car. Whats up with the flopper body mounted on the ceiling?

That is a Kenny Bernstein Mercury LN7 funny car go cart body from the early 80's. Basically wall art.

[fordsbyjay]

Well I haven't done anything new to this car (I have been working on my 56) but I did receive some parts from Crites Restoration on Friday. They have a sale on till the end of Feb so I ordered a hood, trunk lid and front fenders. The fenders are just sitting on the car so the body lines are not lined up right now.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/02/P2250051-1.jpg

[csx4766]

Not sure if you heard but I think Griggs went out of business or the sold the business to Alston.

[fordsbyjay]

Not sure if you heard but I think Griggs went out of business or the sold the business to Alston.

I had read that recently. I sure hope they didn't sell out to Alston, their stuff is already too expensive.

[Bullockracing]

Great project! I love how the "I'll start with this little small task" escalated into cutting frame rails. Awesome!!!

[Bryce]

How is this project coming?

[fordsbyjay]

It is sitting there Bryce. I need to make a shock x member and mount for my watts link. I bought some tubing but have been busy lately. I have been working more as well as trying to get my other two cars ready for Cruising the Coast in Biloxi Ms at the start of OCT. I work out of town and it is not uncommon to be gone for 3-5 weeks at a time so it can put a real damper on the projects. Upside is I have money for the same projects. LOL....

I am at the point right now where I would like too take it to someone to finish the suspension but I don't know anybody around here.

[fordsbyjay]

I started working on my shock x member today. The game plan was to mirror the Griggs unit that came with my suspension but narrow it some to fit my car. I don't have any good pictures of the Griggs setup but below are two partial shots to give you an idea what the finished product SHOULD look like.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/03/griggs9wattslink-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/01/RearSuspensionviewfrombackofcar-1.jpg

Below is my picture but the sharp eye can see I ran into a problem with my shocks. I don't have very much travel left.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/12/Picture006-1.jpg

They are Koni 30-7325's. I looked up the installed height on Koni's website and this is what I found.

7" Steel Shock
Part Number Bump Valving Rebound Valving Min. Length Max. Length
30-7325 3 2-5 12.75 19.75


I took the min and max lengths, calculated the average for 16.25" installed height. I made a couple bars with the holes 16.25" apart to use for mock up. After I installed my shocks I only have about 1.5" of shaft left sticking out the shock. I double checked my bars and they are right so the shocks are longer then the Koni spec as far as I can figure. I have one more hole 1" lower on the lower shock mount but at the lower bolt location the shock hits the lower shock mount. I will need to make some longer spacers for a little more clearance.


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/12/Picture005-1.jpg

http://www.koniracing.com/oval30.cfm#Parts List

[fordsbyjay]

I took a better shot of the Griggs x member. It is setup for a watts link.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/12/Picture010-1.jpg

Here is a better shot of the shock installed. I measured it and there is 2" left so I need to find another 1.5" to be in the middle of the shock travel.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/12/Picture008-1.jpg

Here you can see the little amount of space I have left between the shock and shock mount.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/12/Picture009-1.jpg

[cheapthrillz]

Love your projects Jason... Gives me some Ford inspiration! Hoping to do my 3 link similarly to your TA setup..... Good luck my brother in blue!

[fordsbyjay]

Thanks JC. I follow your build as well I just don't comment much.

[exwestracer]

Jason, seeing the shock as installed, I think the Koni measurements are correct. They measure the shock fully bottomed, and it looks like you have a good 1 1/2 - 2" to the bump stop pad. Try pulling the spring and perch off, then compress the shock all the way and measure it. All that travel may not be useable, but that's how they are measured.

[fordsbyjay]

Ray I made a longer spacer and moved to the lower mounting hole and that puts me about 1/4" off of center in the travel. You are correct about the bump stop pad though. When I first posted I didn't realize it was not bottomed out all the way. I took one shock off yesterday and measured it up completely and that is when I noticed it. It is exactly 19 3/4 open and I couldn't get a closed measurement by myself. It is classified as a 7" shock and in the open position there is 6 5/8" of shaft sticking out. The bump stop is 1 1/8" so really there is only 5 1/2" of travel before it hits the bump stop.

[fordsbyjay]

I spent most of the day yesterday taking measurements of components and where they are located. I need to finish up today because I think I need to make some mounting changes. I lowered the car about 3". I also lowered the engine 1" and moved it back 1". Where I am going with this is my driveline angles are all fubar now. In it's current configuration the transmission yoke is about 1" lower then the pinion yoke but of course it is pointing down and the diff is up. I can space the the transmission up some to compensate but the only way I can lower the diff pinion angle is to lower the T/A front mounting point. I talked to Bruce Griggs about this some time ago and he said to just keep lowering the front till I get the correct pinion angle. In my mind I am screwing up other factors by doing this.

My current plan is to measure everything, draw it up, post it here and see what I can get for suggestions.

[exwestracer]

Jason,
The main thing is having the front and rear shafts close to the same angle under power. It's not so much that the pinion needs to be pointed down, they are just normally led down to compensate for pinion climb under acceleration. With the torque arm, this isn't nearly as much of an issue as with a 3 link or esp. leaf springs. If you keep the front torque arm mount close to the neutral line, you won't see much body reaction under power, so not much pinion angle change either. I'd say less than 2 deg, unless you have a real weapon under the hood of a super light car...:razz:

[fordsbyjay]

I ran some levels and strings today. The pinion is 5/8" higher then my transmission yoke.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

[fordsbyjay]

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/12/topview3-1.jpg

[fordsbyjay]

I got tired of trying to redraw my scribblins'.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/12/notes-1.jpg

[exwestracer]

According to trig, you would have to drop the front torque arm mount just under 1" (.900) to get 1 deg of pinion angle drop. That would put you at about 2.5 deg. If you can get that at the trans as well, you'd be in fine shape with driveshaft angles.

[85coupe50]

Woo hoo, a Griggs TA install... I will be headed down this raod soon enough and this is great tech for me.

Fantastic job on the Falcon so far! Love it. I am going to be running a 17x8 front wheel with a 17x10.5 rear. I have the full Griggs chassis setup but no instructions or anti-sway bars!

[andrewb70]

I ran some levels and strings today. The pinion is 5/8" higher then my transmission yoke.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

Could you not raise the trans slightly and lower the pinion to minimize the front and rear operating angles?

Andrew

[fordsbyjay]

That was what I was thinking Andrew but I would need to raise the tranny 1" and lower the front of the torque arm the same. My biggest concern is the front T/A mount is already getting low and another 1" is just that much closer to the ground. I didn't measure the front T/A mount height but calculating it from the diff it is only 4.3" off the ground. The angle of the T/A would also be about -4*. Drop another 1"?? Maybe I am worried about nothing.. This is the first one for me so that is why I posted it.

Thanks,

[andrewb70]

That was what I was thinking Andrew but I would need to raise the tranny 1" and lower the front of the torque arm the same. My biggest concern is the front T/A mount is already getting low and another 1" is just that much closer to the ground. I didn't measure the front T/A mount height but calculating it from the diff it is only 4.3" off the ground. The angle of the T/A would also be about -4*. Drop another 1"?? Maybe I am worried about nothing.. This is the first one for me so that is why I posted it.

Thanks,

Why does the front of the torque arm need to be dropped? Isn't there a way to rotate the rear end housing without moving the torque arm itself?

Andrew

[fordsbyjay]

No the Griggs unit is fixed to the pinion support mount.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/12/920inch20TorqueArm20closeup-1.jpg

[andrewb70]

No the Griggs unit is fixed to the pinion support mount.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/12/920inch20TorqueArm20closeup-1.jpg

That's a shame. Having some adjustability there sure would have made this simple. Are you inclined to modify the torque arm mount to have some pinion adjustability?

Andrew

[fordsbyjay]

I have been thinking about it and have the tools to get it done. Shame to mess up that pretty powder coating though. I am going to see if I can find a better solution by raising the motor a smidge or something before taking out the grinder.

[andrewb70]

I have been thinking about it and have the tools to get it done. Shame to mess up that pretty powder coating though. I am going to see if I can find a better solution by raising the motor a smidge or something before taking out the grinder.

I can relate. It is a shame to ruin the pretty powder coating. Looking forward to seeing what you do.

Andrew

[Bryce]

Jason,

I would cut it and make it right. Otherwise you will always wish you did it right. Powder coating will cost about $100 for that size part. Or some good hammertone paint will last a few years.

[67redrocket]

Any updates on this project?

[fordsbyjay]

Any updates on this project?


Not much to report. I modified the mounting bracket on the T/A to get my pinion angle right but now the front T/A mount is too high not leaving enough room for a driveshaft (esp. an aluminum one). There is really no other choice but to move the front mount lower or raise the engine. It would be a lot nicer of the T/A was adjustable so I've been wondering about making some changes to it. I also talked to DSE and the Roadster shop about putting a front clip under it. I had a bunch of money saved up before summer for that step but spent it on one of my other cars.

Other than that I have been too busy with work and life. I have 3 girls in college which sucks up all my cash every 6 months, as well as my oldest daughter got married in June. I've burned up all my savings in the last few months. My wife has 2 cars and they seem to be sucking up any free time I have left.

I'm pretty much at the point where I need to take it to someone with a lot more knowledge than I have that can put the T/A mount where it needs to be. I think I am going to keep saving and just have a front clip installed at the same time so at least I will be rolling. I like doing the small stuff but I think I am beyond my knowledge area.

[fordsbyjay]

I have actually been working on this thing lately. I looked the other day and I think my tires have expired it has been so long. I kept having "packaging" problems with the T/A. Because I lowered the car a lot more than the Griggs parts were designed for the front of the T/A wanted to be right where the driveshaft is. I originally modified the T/A lower but it hung way down under the car. After a 1/2 decade of humming and hawing I raised the engine/trans back up 1" (I had lowered it years ago) which helped out a bunch. Ideally a T/A with a front slider would be a lot better design for a low car. the double bushing unit that Griggs has too tall IMO but then wth do I know.. Today I shortened my own driveshaft for mockup purposes.

I lowered the back of the car down so it is level. This is the before picture and I can't seem to find an after picture. I will post one tomorrow.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/01/20140331_162507_resized_zps622989f1-1.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/fordsbyjay/media/64%20Falcon/20140331_162507_resized_zps622989f1.jpg.html)

I have most of my watts link fabbed up.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/01/20160120_170802_zpslpq7nytq-1.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/fordsbyjay/media/64%20Falcon/20160120_170802_zpslpq7nytq.jpg.html)

[rustomatic]

It's good to see you back on this car! After a few iterations of dealing with stuff that was supposed to go within the factory confines of a Falcon, or at least a Mustang (and not fully liking the results), I gave up and made mine a Corvette (with an LS engine). It's still a work in progress, but that's just the nature of the hotrod, as you're well aware. The fast Falcon community always needs another voice--we're a small group!

[fordsbyjay]

Here is the car now. The back is about 1/2" higher than the front. I am expecting the front to drop another inch once the radiator and stuff is all in.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/01/20160121_093320_zpsz54ylqse-1.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/fordsbyjay/media/64%20Falcon/20160121_093320_zpsz54ylqse.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/01/20160121_093303_zpsqvxo2wdh-1.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/fordsbyjay/media/64%20Falcon/20160121_093303_zpsqvxo2wdh.jpg.html)

[Bossed]

Love what you're doing with the Falcon, the stance is just killer. That stroked Windsor will make it super fun to drive. I owned a 64 Sprint, same color. Best of luck as you move forward, and thanks for sharing.

[Jetfixr320]

Looking good! Keep at it.

[Munssey]

Love the falcon builds! Keep up the nice work and posts.

[LERM]

Outstanding car. I'd love to strip my current car of all its go-fast stuff to put together a falcon just like this. Too awesome.

[fordsbyjay]

I built a dropped front crossmember for the T/A today. I put in the drop so I could make room for the exhaust yet have enough driveshaft clearance. It will sit flush along the floor and attach to the subframe connectors.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/01/20160124_185746_zpsmu11hjzm-1.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/fordsbyjay/media/64%20Falcon/20160124_185746_zpsmu11hjzm.jpg.html)

[fordsbyjay]

One of my goals was to stiffen up the car without ever adding a roll bar. I initially braced and boxed the cowl area. When I added the rear 2x3 frame from Autoweld I thought they would be strong enough. I realize with no sheet metal things can get a bit flimsy but the back part of frame/car moves around with just my weight. The floor and tubs will tie everything together but I wanted to make sure the suspension wasn't going to move around under load.

I added an X brace behind the back seat and welded the original sheetmetal seams in that area. Then I tied it into the frame and a bit of bracing I added to the frame. When I added the Autoweld frame rails they are made for a stock car floor pan. Once I lowered the car I started to run out of room for exhaust and suspension travel. I used the added bracing for structural help as well as to raise the trunk floor a bit for more clearance underneath.

The big opening behind the seat will be filled in with sheet metal and attached to the x brace.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/01/20160124_163808_zpskr5puiuo-1.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/fordsbyjay/media/64%20Falcon/20160124_163808_zpskr5puiuo.jpg.html)

[fordsbyjay]

For better or worse the T/A is in.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/01/20160125_164809_zpsxfyz6aax-1.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/fordsbyjay/media/64%20Falcon/20160125_164809_zpsxfyz6aax.jpg.html)

[Blk02crewinms]

Car looks great I've lurked here forever and I've finally went ahead and bought a 64 ht falcon. Seems like I'll watch what you and Bryce and a couple of the other guys have done and go from there on my choices. Really thinking about sticking to a "stock style" front suspension and going all out on the rear. Next time I come thru Lafayette I'll have to see if your around. I'd love to check this thing out. Especially the subframe connectors and braces.

[fordsbyjay]

Thanks..

[fordsbyjay]

I made a steel panel to fit behind the rear seat..I don't have any experience with a bead roll so the corners did not come out that nice. I definitely need to use a larger radius next time.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/02/20160212_171902_zpskesi0ftq-1.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/fordsbyjay/media/64%20Falcon/20160212_171902_zpskesi0ftq.jpg.html)

I have also been working on the rear tubs. The are 18 ga steel and have a radius on the inside edge. I got this one mostly finished tonight and mocked up the cardboard on the other side. The cardboard has some give to it but I forsee the steel tub not installing very easy... I used a spoiler roll on the two pieces then had to shrink the tub edge to get the curve.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/02/20160212_171318_zpswqu73d9z-1.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/fordsbyjay/media/64%20Falcon/20160212_171318_zpswqu73d9z.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/02/20160212_171302_zps82hopffo-1.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/fordsbyjay/media/64%20Falcon/20160212_171302_zps82hopffo.jpg.html)

[fordsbyjay]

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/02/20160213_091011_zpsof1yu5se-1.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/fordsbyjay/media/64%20Falcon/20160213_091011_zpsof1yu5se.jpg.html)

[fordsbyjay]

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/02/20160213_143752_zpsi2sfah5t-1.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/fordsbyjay/media/64%20Falcon/20160213_143752_zpsi2sfah5t.jpg.html)

[windows]

Project is looking real good. Nice work on the tubs.

[no go nova]

Just read this thread and glad your sticking with it.

[fordsbyjay]

Had to leave for a few weeks for a funeral :( but I am back
Built the other tub this weekend. I made it differently where as I rolled the outside edge like the inside. I don't care for the look of the first tub I made.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/03/20160306_163041_zpsfe4ujmy2-1.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/fordsbyjay/media/64%20Falcon/20160306_163041_zpsfe4ujmy2.jpg.html)


I am pretty sure I will have to cut part of it off to get them in place then weld them back together once in the car. My goal is to prime/paint them first so the front area will be protected. Tomorrows forcast is rain so there won't be any painting this week.

[fordsbyjay]

Today I worked a bit on some metal pieces to mount my trunk hinges (2005 Mustang). I will post some pics tomorrow.

[TX OUTLAW]

Nice!been watching yours and a few other falcon builds through out the past few years.you have really giving me some good ideas for my falcon.I've had it for 2yrs now and it's just been sitting in my garage but I'm about to that point to where im ready to start working on it.anyway,nice build and can't wait to see it done.keep up the good work bud.

[fordsbyjay]

Thanks. I have been working a bit on some sheetmetal. I had to raise the trans tunnel a bit which was a huge PITA. The driveshaft tunnel is high enough to fit a larger aluminum driveshaft. The way the car is sitting right now I am thinking it might go a couple more inches lower so I wanted to make sure the floor can support that at a later date.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/05/20160421_203142_zpscfqiakbp-1.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/fordsbyjay/media/64%20Falcon/20160421_203142_zpscfqiakbp.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/05/20160418_194543_zpsyuh9gtxc-1.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/fordsbyjay/media/64%20Falcon/20160418_194543_zpsyuh9gtxc.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/05/20160418_194903_zpsroaeh8fg-1.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/fordsbyjay/media/64%20Falcon/20160418_194903_zpsroaeh8fg.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/05/20160506_175541_zpsz7cjlmju-1.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/fordsbyjay/media/64%20Falcon/20160506_175541_zpsz7cjlmju.jpg.html)

[fordsbyjay]

Well it's been awhile so I figured I should post an update. I was moving along well with the wheel tubs and interior when our house flooded a couple months after my last post (Aug 2016). I lost almost everything in the house and my wife's 2005 Mustang. Most of my cars are stored somewhere else so I had minimal hotrod loss. My 56 flooded but it has no interior so that was easy to clean up. My Falcon is still on blocks so just the bottom of the wheels got flooded.

I see photobucket has screwed up my build thread as well. I am going see if I can repost some of the pictures from my new imgur account.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/10/QMEg2hf-1.jpg

[LowFast]

Sorry to hear about the mess. Hopefully you guys have recovered. Life tends to always throw things at us to make a mess of it all.

[fordsbyjay]

One more picture a little later in the day.

The Aholes at photobucket won't even let me download all my pictures now. I have them all somewhere but they are spread out over 4 different computers over the last 12 years.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/10/EoVV0VN-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/10/EtpIvhf-1.jpg

[wfo guy]

You have my sympathies. I know that has to horrible.

[Motown 454]

Wow, I m sorry to see you had the flooding.

[fordsbyjay]

Thanks. We just about have that behind us now so hopefully I can resume some projects.

[fordsbyjay]

I have several cars and one of my other projects has been soaking up all my cash lately so after 2+ years I assembled everything so I could move it to my storage building. This is the first time it has been on the ground in many years.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/11/aqHfFUI-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/11/tmPjaTt-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/11/jLoC2kJ-1.jpg

- - - Updated - - -

A lot different then this years ago.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/11/t2DUicx-1.jpg

[rixtrix1]

Love the looks of these boxy little Falcons! You've only made it better. Thanks for sharing.

[Project Bike Truck]

Saw your post on FB. I will be following this for sure. killer work.

[jaybee]

Great to see some activity on this thread. I've taken a renewed interest in all the cars built on the Falcon platform as I'm considering looking for a Maverick.

[Fastbackfreak]

I was using Google in order to search for a solution for my Griggs Suspension.
My 67 Mustang has been tubbed and I’ve modified the Watts link arms to fit the narrower frame rails. Plenty of room for my 17x13 inch rear wheels.

But I also want to use a different Torque arm that is less bulky, and ideally with a sliding pivot mount instead of the Griggs solid busing type.

I lost my Griggs Torque arm some time ago, and I needed to find out the length of it, before I can figure out a plan. I know the importance of having the correct geometry and angles, so the illustration in this thread was very useful. Great forum I signed up with years ago :twothumbs

Any news on your project?

162915

162917

162916

[Bossed]

Hey, any updates on the Falcon ?