psy4s
12-22-2009, 07:28 PM
Hello,
This is my first post, though I have been browsing this forum for information. I purchased my 1967 Camaro in Germany in 1985. It is a German Spec car with 200KPH speedometer. After the first year at home the dreaded Ocean Air started to show on the 40 year old body, so I began a long painful rebuild that will reach it's zenith this spring.
I started by painfully (anyone who has done this knows what I mean) cutting each panel off, discarding anything that had started to rust. The car had spent it’s life in Germany as a race car, so the deeper I went, the more human RAT damage I found. I am convinced that a PRO Racers best friend is a Sawzall, and a Hammer.
I needed to replace the tired 283 that came in the car, so I built a 383 from the ground up with the intention of reducing as many of the standard friction surfaces as possible.
The Block is a 1992 5.7 one piece Rear Main Truck Four Bolt Block. Line bored with the crank studs installed, and .030 over on the cylinders. The crank I used is a Summit forged steel crank. The connecting rods are Eagle 5.7 H-Beam, and the pistons are MAHLE Forged with anti-friction coating. The cam is a custom Comp Cams Hydraulic Roller, with an AFR Hydro Rev kit to keep the lifters where they belong. The Rockers are Comp Cams Pro Magnum Rollers. The heads are AFR 195 Eliminators. The intake is an Edelbrock Air Gap RPM endurashine with a Barry Grant 750 AV Demon (650 cfm). This should atomize the fuel better at low RPM’s for around town, but still have good high RPM flow.
The transmission at the moment is a Muncie 4 speed, but in February I am going to pick up a TKO 600. I need this to be street able, so I can take it across Route 66 on my Vacation this summer. It has Factory 4 piston front disks, and the rear’s have been updated from drum to single piston disk with parking brakes. The rear end is a Factory 12 bolt, but the Axles and bearings have been updated. The Rear springs are Vett Brakes fiberglass composite Mono Leaf, the front have a 1.5” drop.
My next decision will be weather to run a 1968 Yenko 427 hood, or a 1967 Z28 Cowl Air Cleaner with the Factory SS hood. The car has already been cut out on the fire wall for the Air Cleaner from years before I ever bought it, but the Air Cleaner did not come with the car. I can get a repro one for about $700 complete with snorkel. The look of the Yenko hood is really cool, but the function of the air cleaner is better for about the same price. When I purchased the car it had a 6” cowl Hood on it. Now I am just 5’8” in shoes. I couldn’t even see the front of the car. Try to take that down the track when you are just learning how to drive the ¼ mile in a 4 speed car.
Over the last 20 years she has slowly become a lady. I have the factory SS hood, which is in pretty good shape, and with the Cowl Air Cleaner, I can run the SS steel hood, and no one will know anything until the hood comes up.
I’m not rushing the body shop, and the engine is not finished at the Machine shop. I hope for it to all come together in March. I will post the entire project in pictures when it is done.
539 HP @ 6500 RPM
508 TQ @ 4500 RPM
The engine is a mild 383 (6.27 liter) with 9.9-1 compression
(5.7 liter-350 cu in block, with 4.030 bore and 3.750 in stroke)
§ Bare Block
10105123
4 Bolt with one piece rear main seal block
§ MAHLE forged pistons flat tops SBC-425030F05. +
Bore 4.030
Stroke 3.750
Rod 5.7
Comp Height 1.425
Weight Grams 458
Dome Volume -5cc
Chamber size Compression
76cc / 9.9
§ Eagle 5.7 H-Beam Connecting Rods
§ Forged Summit One Piece Rear 383 Crank
SME-3-51-05L057 One Piece Rear Main
§ Fluidamper Harmonic Damper P/N 712615
§ Fidanza Billet Aluminum Flywheel #198861
§ Lakewood #620-15000 Blow proof Bell Housing
§ AFR 195 Eliminator cylinder heads
Part Number 1038
Chamber 75cc
Plug Angled Plug
§ Comp Cams Pro Magnum SS Full Roller Rockers
1302-16 1.6 Ratio
§ Comp Cams Hydraulic Roller Cam
CS 3314S.cam Custom Cam Grind
.536 intake .544 Exhaust 110 Separation
§ Comp Cams Hydraulic Roller Lifters
850-16
§ Crane Rocker Stud Girdle
11600-1
§ AFR HydroRev kit to keep the lifters in their holes
6150
§ Hi-Performance Oil Pump
10555
§ Intake Edelbrock Performer RPM AirGap with Endurashine
75014
§ BG Demon 750 AV Carb (650 cfm)
Mechanical with Electric Choke
§ Mallory Unilite Distributor
MAA-3748201
§ CSR Electric Water Pump with Heater Outlet
CSR901H
§ 100amp Alternator
§ Hedman HTC 1 5/8 in headers with 3"Collectors
HED-68276
§ Pypes Stainless Steel X Flow exhaust with cross flow muffler
§ The Transmission is a 4 speed Muncie Transmission.
§ The 12 bolt rear end is 3.73
§ Tires are 225/60VR15
The wife said it was her or the car, that was three years ago, I still have the car. The car was much cheaper than she was! The quiet is SSSOOO Nice now.
This is my first post, though I have been browsing this forum for information. I purchased my 1967 Camaro in Germany in 1985. It is a German Spec car with 200KPH speedometer. After the first year at home the dreaded Ocean Air started to show on the 40 year old body, so I began a long painful rebuild that will reach it's zenith this spring.
I started by painfully (anyone who has done this knows what I mean) cutting each panel off, discarding anything that had started to rust. The car had spent it’s life in Germany as a race car, so the deeper I went, the more human RAT damage I found. I am convinced that a PRO Racers best friend is a Sawzall, and a Hammer.
I needed to replace the tired 283 that came in the car, so I built a 383 from the ground up with the intention of reducing as many of the standard friction surfaces as possible.
The Block is a 1992 5.7 one piece Rear Main Truck Four Bolt Block. Line bored with the crank studs installed, and .030 over on the cylinders. The crank I used is a Summit forged steel crank. The connecting rods are Eagle 5.7 H-Beam, and the pistons are MAHLE Forged with anti-friction coating. The cam is a custom Comp Cams Hydraulic Roller, with an AFR Hydro Rev kit to keep the lifters where they belong. The Rockers are Comp Cams Pro Magnum Rollers. The heads are AFR 195 Eliminators. The intake is an Edelbrock Air Gap RPM endurashine with a Barry Grant 750 AV Demon (650 cfm). This should atomize the fuel better at low RPM’s for around town, but still have good high RPM flow.
The transmission at the moment is a Muncie 4 speed, but in February I am going to pick up a TKO 600. I need this to be street able, so I can take it across Route 66 on my Vacation this summer. It has Factory 4 piston front disks, and the rear’s have been updated from drum to single piston disk with parking brakes. The rear end is a Factory 12 bolt, but the Axles and bearings have been updated. The Rear springs are Vett Brakes fiberglass composite Mono Leaf, the front have a 1.5” drop.
My next decision will be weather to run a 1968 Yenko 427 hood, or a 1967 Z28 Cowl Air Cleaner with the Factory SS hood. The car has already been cut out on the fire wall for the Air Cleaner from years before I ever bought it, but the Air Cleaner did not come with the car. I can get a repro one for about $700 complete with snorkel. The look of the Yenko hood is really cool, but the function of the air cleaner is better for about the same price. When I purchased the car it had a 6” cowl Hood on it. Now I am just 5’8” in shoes. I couldn’t even see the front of the car. Try to take that down the track when you are just learning how to drive the ¼ mile in a 4 speed car.
Over the last 20 years she has slowly become a lady. I have the factory SS hood, which is in pretty good shape, and with the Cowl Air Cleaner, I can run the SS steel hood, and no one will know anything until the hood comes up.
I’m not rushing the body shop, and the engine is not finished at the Machine shop. I hope for it to all come together in March. I will post the entire project in pictures when it is done.
539 HP @ 6500 RPM
508 TQ @ 4500 RPM
The engine is a mild 383 (6.27 liter) with 9.9-1 compression
(5.7 liter-350 cu in block, with 4.030 bore and 3.750 in stroke)
§ Bare Block
10105123
4 Bolt with one piece rear main seal block
§ MAHLE forged pistons flat tops SBC-425030F05. +
Bore 4.030
Stroke 3.750
Rod 5.7
Comp Height 1.425
Weight Grams 458
Dome Volume -5cc
Chamber size Compression
76cc / 9.9
§ Eagle 5.7 H-Beam Connecting Rods
§ Forged Summit One Piece Rear 383 Crank
SME-3-51-05L057 One Piece Rear Main
§ Fluidamper Harmonic Damper P/N 712615
§ Fidanza Billet Aluminum Flywheel #198861
§ Lakewood #620-15000 Blow proof Bell Housing
§ AFR 195 Eliminator cylinder heads
Part Number 1038
Chamber 75cc
Plug Angled Plug
§ Comp Cams Pro Magnum SS Full Roller Rockers
1302-16 1.6 Ratio
§ Comp Cams Hydraulic Roller Cam
CS 3314S.cam Custom Cam Grind
.536 intake .544 Exhaust 110 Separation
§ Comp Cams Hydraulic Roller Lifters
850-16
§ Crane Rocker Stud Girdle
11600-1
§ AFR HydroRev kit to keep the lifters in their holes
6150
§ Hi-Performance Oil Pump
10555
§ Intake Edelbrock Performer RPM AirGap with Endurashine
75014
§ BG Demon 750 AV Carb (650 cfm)
Mechanical with Electric Choke
§ Mallory Unilite Distributor
MAA-3748201
§ CSR Electric Water Pump with Heater Outlet
CSR901H
§ 100amp Alternator
§ Hedman HTC 1 5/8 in headers with 3"Collectors
HED-68276
§ Pypes Stainless Steel X Flow exhaust with cross flow muffler
§ The Transmission is a 4 speed Muncie Transmission.
§ The 12 bolt rear end is 3.73
§ Tires are 225/60VR15
The wife said it was her or the car, that was three years ago, I still have the car. The car was much cheaper than she was! The quiet is SSSOOO Nice now.