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    Results 1 to 10 of 10
    1. #1
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Posts
      2,413

      Leaf spring clip nuts I have a better solution. Good for other suspensions too.

      Ive already made these for my car just need to install.
      Many talks about the clip nuts for the front leaf mounts have come up in the years Ive been on this and other sites But ive never seen a solution other than another type of clip nut. Well here is my solution.

      First make a plug out of 1 inch round stock drill and tap one end 1/2 13 then on the car from under drill a marker hole through to the interior floor. then using that hole as a guide drill a 1 inch or slightly smaller hole through floor only not the frame then take the plug put it through till it seats on the inner frame. run a bolt in tight and weld the plug in... What do you think... This in my mind will be 100% stronger than clip nuts plus larger bolt and solid mounted to frame top n bottom Also suspension systems like the Quadralink Prodigy bar air bar g-bar glink and anyone else that uses the front spring cup could use this idea..... opinions please...




      Nothing says "I built this" better than tool marks and dykem blue..

      Follow my 3 link build. https://www.pro-touring.com/forum/sh...ad.php?t=61592


    2. #2
      Join Date
      Dec 2004
      Location
      Midwest
      Posts
      2,263
      Country Flag: United States
      Those original clips are available from Eaton Spring cheap, made by the original supplier if you need them. Like less than $10 / bag I'm pretty sure.
      Kevin Oeste
      V8 Speed and Resto Shop
      V8TV
      Muscle Car Of The Week
      V8 Radio Podcast

      All about us:
      https://www.v8speedshop.com


    3. #3
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Posts
      2,413
      The whole point is to not use the clip nuts that secure onto a thin flap of frame section..
      Nothing says "I built this" better than tool marks and dykem blue..

      Follow my 3 link build. https://www.pro-touring.com/forum/sh...ad.php?t=61592

    4. #4
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      Walla Walla, WA
      Posts
      1,512
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by LowBuckX View Post
      The whole point is to not use the clip nuts that secure onto a thin flap of frame section..
      I'm unaware of anything, anywhere that suggests the unibody leaf spring mounting points are a weak spot. I think the point of oestek's post was that it is the repro spring clips that are the weak point, not the mount to the unibody. So your solution seems a like a lot of work to solve a simpe hardware issue.
      Mike Kelcy - '68 Camaro with some stuff done to it.

    5. #5
      Join Date
      Dec 2004
      Location
      Midwest
      Posts
      2,263
      Country Flag: United States
      I was suggesting that if you needed originals and couldn't find them, (they're tricky) - that they are now available. I know they always break when taking them out.
      Kevin Oeste
      V8 Speed and Resto Shop
      V8TV
      Muscle Car Of The Week
      V8 Radio Podcast

      All about us:
      https://www.v8speedshop.com


    6. #6
      Join Date
      Feb 2005
      Posts
      320
      I personally like the idea and would have used it if i wouldnt have cut out my entire floor for the full frame max g chassis. Good work!

      Chris

    7. #7
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      Rustburg, Virginia
      Posts
      3,436
      Country Flag: United States
      The spring perches are trying to push up under the car when launching and during that point in time, you wouldn't even need any clips, unless you drop the clutch with the tranny in reverse....LOL
      1970 RS/SS350 139K on the clock:
      89 TPI motor w/ 1pc rear seal coupled to a Viper T56 via Mcleod's modular bellhousing w/ hydraulic T/O bearing from the Viper, 12 bolt rear w/ 3.73 gearing, SC&C upper control arms, factory lowers with Delalums, C5 brakes at all four corners, Front Wheels 17x8's with Sumi 255/40/17 and Rear Wheels 17x9's with Sumi 275/40/17.
      Brief description of the work done so far can be found here: http://www.nastyz28.com/forum/showthread.php?t=112454


    8. #8
      Join Date
      May 2000
      Posts
      4,151
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by John Wright View Post
      The spring perches are trying to push up under the car when launching and during that point in time, you wouldn't even need any clips, unless you drop the clutch with the tranny in reverse....LOL
      Or hit the brakes,

    9. #9
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      Rustburg, Virginia
      Posts
      3,436
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by MarkM66 View Post
      Or hit the brakes,
      LOL...yup, you're right.
      1970 RS/SS350 139K on the clock:
      89 TPI motor w/ 1pc rear seal coupled to a Viper T56 via Mcleod's modular bellhousing w/ hydraulic T/O bearing from the Viper, 12 bolt rear w/ 3.73 gearing, SC&C upper control arms, factory lowers with Delalums, C5 brakes at all four corners, Front Wheels 17x8's with Sumi 255/40/17 and Rear Wheels 17x9's with Sumi 275/40/17.
      Brief description of the work done so far can be found here: http://www.nastyz28.com/forum/showthread.php?t=112454


    10. #10
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Posts
      2,413
      My situation is a link type suspension with the hole moved 3/4" lower and that would cause more leverage to be put into the perch..Thats why I brewed this up..
      Nothing says "I built this" better than tool marks and dykem blue..

      Follow my 3 link build. https://www.pro-touring.com/forum/sh...ad.php?t=61592




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