Panhard Bar

[injcted]

Hey guys im new to the forum and i was wonder if any of you guys could help me on a couple of things.

I have a 64 mercury comet and i wanna put a panhard bar on the car but i dont know where to get one at besides jegs. And if i could get some advise on placement of it in the rear.

Any tips or tricks would be awsome.

Thanks
Dominic

This is the Coolest forum out there!

[JRouche]

Pan hard bars are good. Where they shine is with the weight issues. They dont put much weight on the unsprung suspension..

The down side is packaging. The longer the bar the better. So that can be an issue.

Not sure about the room you have on your car but a rear mounted bar might get you the most room?

I gotta ask? Why a pan hard bar? What happened with your original lateral locating device? Usually a leaf spring or control arms.

What did you remove so you need a lateral locating device? JR

[injcted]

I still have the leafs but i put in a crites relocation leaf kit. It moved the leafs in 4 inches on each side and now i get some shimmy in the rear. I found Speedwaymotors.com they have some good stuff there.

[Bryce]

cool project. Look up pictures of the 65 mustang transam and there is also a 63 falcon in that nastalgia series.
Mount the panhard low about 2-3 inches below the center line of the axle and mount it horizontal at ride height. Make it as long as possible. And reinforce the frame mount.

Have you thought about using a watts link?

[injcted]

Its a thought but how do you mount it to a 8.8 any link i could take a look at?

[LowBuckX]

Search Watts and you will have tons of threads...

There is no problem with a Panhard Watts links are sorta the bling thing right now..

[Norm Peterson]

Its a thought but how do you mount it to a 8.8 any link i could take a look at?
Preferred thinking is to frame-mount the central pivot of the WL bellcrank (this will require fabricating some structure between the bellcrank and the existing car structure) and attach the outer ends of the lateral links to pedestals of some sort that mount to the axle tubes. Again, mount the pedestals as far outboard as possible, as even a Watts link does not have absolutely perfect geometry.


Norm

[injcted]

Well i was thinking about using this barcket for the axle

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Panhard-Behind-Rear-End-Bracket-Weld-On,3381.html

get two of these and box it to the frame, maybe if i had to get some 2x2 square tubing to shim it down to make the bar level to the ground

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Four-Hole-Mounting-Bracket,4102.html

then make a bar out of 1.125 round stock with the correct rod ends for the brackets

[LowBuckX]

welding onto the axle tube isnt a good idea unless you are going to cut the ends off and reweld them back on with a jig. Thats why everything I used mounted to the axle tube used axle clamps.....

[injcted]

Would the weld on bracket for the axle give a cleaner and a professional look than a clamp on style? Why would i have to weld it onto a jig and then put it in the car.Could i just put the car a ride height and weld on the bracket to the then make the bracket to the frame so the bar is level the ground?

I'm new with this so i could be wrong.

[LowBuckX]

what happens when you weld on the axle tube is it bends slightly into the hot spot so its no longer straight. then you have to take off the ends and use a jig so it all comes back together straight.


Why is a a tube clamp not profesional looking. They are used in professional racing for many applications from shock mounts panhard mounts and spring mounts.... Just something to think about.

[JRouche]

Why is a a tube clamp not profesional looking. They are used in professional racing for many applications from shock mounts panhard mounts and spring mounts.... Just something to think about.

The tube clamps work really well. They dont move at all and they really dont look bad IMO.

Check out my watts link in the thread below. I talk about some minor testing I did with the clamps. For a pan hard bar I think the bracket shown would work pretty darn good.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/11/braket-1.jpg

Here is what I used for my axle clamps.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/05/m-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/05/o-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/05/r-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/05/s-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/05/c-3.jpg




The complete build up. thread.....
https://www.pro-touring.com/forum/showthread.php?t=55420

[injcted]

Cool thanks for the pics. I'm new at this so all the input is well appreated!!!!

[JRouche]

Cool thanks for the pics. I'm new at this so all the input is well appreated!!!!

No problem. Hey, Im new to all this also. This is the first time I have ever worked on a car. Its a learn as I go type thing. And Ill be really honest, without great sites like this one and others I would be floundering. I have learned a great deal from all the folks here. JR

[Jasons72]

JRouce, is your car being set up for cornering or straight line performance? The reason i ask is because of the 4 link you have. What kind of ends do you have on the links and does it allow for enough movement without binding? I'm going to build my own 4 link but i think i'm going to triangulate it or something, not too sure yet.

[High Plains Mopars]

Check these guys out, http://www.maierracing.com

[JRouche]

JRouce, is your car being set up for cornering or straight line performance? The reason i ask is because of the 4 link you have. What kind of ends do you have on the links and does it allow for enough movement without binding? I'm going to build my own 4 link but i think i'm going to triangulate it or something, not too sure yet.

Hey Jason. Well, my car is set up for civil street driving, nothing more. No track time is gonna be seen, I cant afford that. Just the streets. Going to the store to pick up groceries. Thats all..

And as for the binding issue. Well, I started out with some really nice rod ends that art morrison sent with the 4-link. I honestly think they would allow enough twist without backing out the links. I checked them at 5* of twist and they were compliant enough.

But I got a good connection on some more of the QA1 XM series rods ends I used for my watts link and decided to do a change over. A lil more compliance and the price was right.

So Im swapping out the stainless/poly rod ends for some QA1 rod ends. And some dust covers from seals-it to keep the rod end balls a lil cleaner. I had to make some spacers to take up the additional space too. JR

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/11/rodends-1.jpg