Which end connection (mount) to chose for rear coil over shocks? Bearing or bushing?

[meenaggie]

I am going to be running a canted four-link in the rear of my 68 camaro. It is an air-bar switched over to traditional coil overs. Most companies in my budget (Strange, Varishock, QA1) offer two end types for the shocks - bearing or bushing. So my question is which do you prefer and why? The logical answer to me seams like bearing but it looks like most of the suspension kits come with the bushing type. There is only about a $5 difference, if any, per shock in the cost (bearing type more expensive). Most companys advertise the bushing to be polyurethane and the spherical bearings to be teflon lined.

Any info to help me make this decision would be appreciated . . .

[79T/Aman]

I would use the bearings beacause they allow for missalignment of the mounts and for none linear movement of the coilover especialy with a live rear axle

[dipren443]

Yup, bushing equals bind... Just be weary of cheap bearings...

[Bryce]

im running bearings in my front suspension. Less deflection than bushings and no added noise or harshness. The bearings will wear and will need replacing if the start to get sloppy

[meenaggie]

Thanks for all the info . . . bearings it is. GENII, one of the companies actually calls them mis-alignment connections and since I going to use the weld on lower connection I think that will be an added bonus.

[JRouche]

Ill jump on the bearing ends too. I have bushings on the shocks (shockwaves) right now and will keep them cause I spent money for them. The issue I see with the bushing is they use the bolt for a pivot. BAD!!! Bolts should not be used as a rotating pivot point.

Stock control arm (and shocks) bushings lock the center sleeve against the frame, so its not allowed to rotate on the bolt. Thats the proper use of bushings, the engineers actually worked it out. The rotational force is directed on the rubber, making the rubber rotate or I should say twist.. Thats why rubber bushings are so stiff. The rubber takes the rotational force if they are used correctly.

Aftermarket bushings may not have the serrated inside sleeve. If they dont they are a bad design. If you dont lock down the inner sleeve then the sleeve will rotate on the bolt, BAD!!!. And this goes for shock or coil over mounts also.

Now a bearing will take all the rotation movement. If the tolerances are correct the ball of the bearing is held tight with the clamping force of the fastener and all the movement, rotation and deflection are handled by the bearing surface, not the bolt.
Sorry but I thing most of the aftermarket suppliers of rubber bushing (that includes all the poly units) have a poor design. The inner sleeve of their bushings is rotating on the bolt. NOT GOOD!! They seam to focus on the sideways deflection and miss the issue of rotational movement.

Ok, so know that I had a moment of focus Ill stray a lil :)

I have an art morrison 4-link that I originally ordered with their really nice stainless steel poly (might be rubber, I forget) bushing ends. They dont have any time on them but I decided to swap them all out for some nice QA1 rod ends. I also bought a bunch of sealsit covers for the rod ends. http://www.sealsit.com/rodend.asp
They look like some nice lil seals, should help to keep the dust and dirt out.

But eight rod ends and 16 seals kinda broke this weeks bank. Not a cheap way to go. Maybe Ill ebay the AM stainless ends on up and collect some sales tax money LOL

Oh, one thing about the seals to consider. They do add a lil amount of thickness. I made 16 spacers for the rod ends, before I decided to use the seals. Now I have to go back to the lathe and shave 47 thou off each spacer. Errr!!!! Wonder why this car is a 15 year project... One step forward and two steps back.

Oh, by the way. Why Im changing the rod ends. I can get a stiff 5 degrees of rotation on the rear end with the AM ends. Problem is, its pretty stiff past 2.5 degrees. And that wouldnt worry me cept if the rod ends keep hammering the bars, trying to rotate them then eventually they are gonna over come the jamb nut and then the bar is free to spin. And once that happens the bar grows (or shrinks) in length. NOT good. Thats the only reason I changed my setup.

But yeah, for the coilover ends I wouldnt hesitate using bearings. IMO DONT use a fastener (bolt) for a pivot. Either lock the center sleeve of a bushing down tight with a serrated sleeve or go with a bearing. Bolts are not meant to be bearings. JR