c5 manual brakes

[keith1365]

I have c5 front brakes and lt1 rear brakes on a 68 Camaro using a manual 15/16 master cylinder. The brakes work well but locking them up is very difficult unless you are going 60 and stand on them. I am using standard pads. Would switching to Hawk HPS pads or something different help? This is a street car that will see some autocross from time to time. Not worried about dust but do not want noising brakes on the street. I know this issue has been brought up before. I reallly do not want to do to a booster set up or hydroboost.

[Apogee]

What are the "standard pads" that you're running? It's tough to make a recommendation without knowing the coefficient of friction rating of the current pads you are running because everything is relative, especially with brake pads.

That said, if you're currently running a low-CoF pad like a lot of the off-the-shelf auto parts store Ceramic offerings, then either the Hawk HPS or Hawk HP+ pads should be a step in the right direction. The Hawk HPS will be similar to other semi-metallic pads out there. The Hawk HP+ are one step more aggressive and while they're also a little dustier and harder on rotors, I prefer them over the HPS in manual applications.

Tobin
KORE3

[Randy67]

I second the HP+ pads, which I have on my El Camino with C5 front/LS1 rear brakes and 1" master cylinder. They are hard to lock up, but it stops pretty darn fast without locking up. The pads do tend to squeak on occasion and dust a bit.

[keith1365]

The front pads came with the calipers I got from Touring Classics. Not sure what they are. The rears are the typical AutoZone replacements pads.

[Apogee]

The front pads came with the calipers I got from Touring Classics. Not sure what they are. The rears are the typical AutoZone replacements pads.

The front pads are probably the PBR pads that came with the calipers then and the rears I have no idea since AuotZone offers several replacement pads for the LT1 application ranging from NAO to Semi-Metallic to Ceramic.

That said, you could benefit by going to more aggressive pads. While comparing between manufacturers can be misleading, there should be a 2-digit alpha code printed on the side or back of the pad. The letters designate an average cold and hot coefficient of friction (CoF) range for that particular pad under a specified testing scenario...the problem is that the manufacturers are the ones responsible for doing the testing.

E - CoF=.25 to .34
F - CoF=.35 to .44
G - CoF=.45 to .54

Most manufactures formulate their pads to give as linear of a CoF as possible througout the operating temperature range, so the letters for the cold and hot CoF's are usually the same, i.e. EE, FF or GG, but they don't have to be. Based on the CoF's above, stepping up to a GG pad like the Hawk HP+ should give you ~25% more brake torque versus the more than likely FF pads that you have now.

Alternatively, you could swap your master cylinder for a 7/8" bore unit and live with the additional pedal travel. That's good for about a 12% increase in pressure over the 15/16" bore unit you have now. Make one or both of these changes and not being able to lock things up should be a thing of the distant past.

Tobin
KORE3

[keith1365]

I have a 7/8 master cylinder off of a ford but the lines come out on the motor side. I have been too lazy to bend new lines will it sounds like a good winter project. Will also try some more aggressive pads.