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View Full Version : I've heard tooo many different ways???



69protour
08-24-2004, 07:37 PM
Alright guys, all the new sheetmetal is in and starting the plastic work. I've sanded down to shiny metal and cleaned all the welds up. First I put Long strand tiger hair over the welds I've done. Now I'm into putting down some bondo on the rest of the body. Here's where I'm pulling my hair out! I've heard three different stories from three different people. All are excellent bodymen! I've got self etching primer, but I've heard you don't want to cover bondo with it, just metal? Then I've heard to use an epoxy primer/sealer Like DP40 first on the bare metal, then put bondo on over it? Then I've heard to just use urethane primer and go from there? :hmm: So for anybody out there,HELP! Thanks guys. I'm wanting a show finish and I know that makes a difference, but which one! Trond

68protouring454
08-25-2004, 04:43 AM
trond, i personally like to strip car, then do all body work needed, metal and putty, then self etch prime all bare metal, you can allow it to get on the bondo some, then i like to use a poly primer if the body is wavy, but if its decent i put 2-3 coats of standox urethane primer on it and then block sand away, and re-primer and block sand again

jake

69protour
08-25-2004, 07:45 AM
Hey Jake, So I take it the poly primer is a build primer correct? And is Standox primer a brand? So why not put the etch primer on all the bondo, and not trying to be a smarta$$ about it. :) just trying to understand it. Thanks a bunch.
Trond

68protouring454
08-25-2004, 08:08 AM
trond, some guys do put it all over bondo, but i do not, i just get good coverage on the bare metal and what gets onthe bondo gets onit, there is no benefit to cover the bondo, and its only wasted material, not that it would be much.
standox is a brand of paint.
polyester primer is a sprayable bondo, a very high build primer, that shrinks very little.
urethane primer is just that a urethane primer, it is a high build primer, just only builds like 3-4 mils per coat, compared to 8-10 mils per coat of poly, urethane primer is used alot more than poly, but poly shines when you need something perfect, but it takes alot of block sanding as well, you should be able to use just urethane primer for your needs, i would apply 2-3 coats with flash in between, then block sand and re-prime 2-3 coats and block sand again, and you should be ready.
goodluck
jake

69protour
08-25-2004, 08:46 AM
Jake, the car will be black, Would the poly primer be better to use to get it really straight? If I did use the poly what tip would I need to shoot it with? I've got a 1.6 on a Sharp Cobalt. I've used to shoot the etch on other parts and seemed a little to small? Thanks again Trond

68protouring454
08-25-2004, 08:54 AM
trond, the etch should spray fine on a 1.6, open the trigger adjustment open all most all the way, and the 1.6 should be ok for the urethane primer, i use a 1.8 for mine, as for the poly, i am not sure for other brands but for standox i use a special sata gun, i thinks its around a 2.4 or 2.6 and made for spraying polyester, as far as other makes of paint i do not know what they recommend. yes poly may be what you want to do for a black car if you are not experienced in body work, it will fill and hide many imperfections.
jake

BRIAN
08-25-2004, 03:53 PM
For beginner I would use PPG NCP line which is a etch and primer surfacer all in one. It cuts down on products needed. It does require a pretty large tip and a touch of reducer to get it out if you have low air supply. It sticks to just about everything and goes over both bare metal and plastic. I would skim the panels with plastic and get them as straight as possible than proceed to above it will save you from just wasting paint materials. No I am not telling you to bondo up the car but skim coat the side panels especially the door and then long board the panel. You should about to see the metal showing then hiy with higher grit till about 80% of plastic is on floor. Don't get crazy with so many primers if this is first car and backyard effort.

StRacerDuke
08-26-2004, 03:08 PM
I just did a black 67 camaro a few days ago in my garage and it turned out killer.
I'm more or less a rookie who has only done a few paint jobs, but from trial and error this is what I found works best for me. Always remember there is 100 different way's to skin a cat...

From metal:
all body work, using 3M lightweight filler, Evercoat Rage, or Evercoat finishing filler
Prime 2-3 coats with PCL Poly primer (I use a 1.4 tip at it lays down nice, just takes a little longer)
guide coat, then start wet blocking with 220 (make sure you're doing long strokes or you will just be chasing waves). You'll probably have some burn through spots.
Prime again with 2 coats and repeat guide coat and sanding. Repeat untill you have it perfect.
Shoot a final coat of primer on the car to make sure you have even coverage and no burn throughs. Guide coat and wet block with 400.
Prep your garage (Hose it out and tape it off if your doing it at home. Realize your floor will never be the same again)
Wash the car down with only water then clean with fresh rags or shop towels.
Tack rag twice prior to paint.

I personaly like Dupont over PPG. Just my preferance. I shot the base and clear with a 1.3 tip and it layed down so nice that it looked like it had already been wetsanded. I used production 99T black using the Croma Base system, and the premier clear. I highly recommend the Dupont Premier Clear. I haven't seen anything that is that easy to use and comes out that nice.

Just my 2 cents. I'll post pictures in a week or so when I'm done buffing it out.