Shock relocation with coil overs.. No search results for this one

[LowBuckX]

Sort of a new dilema to work through that Ive not encountered before. With running my upper link the way I am I have no room for a traditional tube crossmember for the coil overs. Go figure try something new and run into problems..lol

Question is has anyone built heavy boxed mounts off the frame and intigrated them into the sheet metal floor. Say heavy 3/16 U channel 6inch wide welded to frame and floor then plated over and add tabs for shock. In my mind it looks stronger than some of the tube and tab reloction kits... dunno whats your thoughts... Will post pic of link mount tomorrow.

[MoparCar]

Are you referring to basically the way DSE does their Quadralink set-up with the channel to raise the upper shock mount? If so maybe they could just sell you that piece?

Wes

[LowBuckX]

No Im looking to intrude into Trunk and cabin as little as possible and still have good geometry. I will have to clearance for the upper link very little as is.

[Rhino]

I'm not sure if anyone has done this with the stock rails, although I'm all but certain I saw pics of something similar to this idea in Matt's (silver69camaro) car on the AME web site. Keep in mind that it does have their rear subframe in it.

I've had thoughts to do something along the same lines. I'd like to plate between 6 to 8 inches of the stock rails with 2x3" angle on the inside, and bottom, of the frame. I would build a bracket off the 2x3" plate for placement of the coil over.
I doubt the floor itself would hold up to the stress, although if you distribute the force along the frame, I don't see any reason it wouldn't work.

[JRouche]

I like your idea of strengthening the frame. If you do tabs will work no??

Sounds like you want to spread the forces to not just the frame but the floor too right?? I like it. All depends on how far over the coilovers are leaned. If they were vertical then the sheet metal floor prolly wont add too much support. But if they are tilted in then yeah. Thats gonna place more side loads on the frame, cross tube needed. But if you cant fit a cross tube then the floor sheet metal can be used to take that load. If its spread out. The vertical loads are gonna still be handled by the frame. And the side loads will be distributed between the frame and the sheet metal floor.

But... You could look at the frame as its in place now, and its welded fully to the floor already?? If it is then additional welding to the floor wont add any strength. But if the floor is floating on the frame, or only connected with a few spot welds then a solid welded seam from your channel to the floor will make it solid. Instead of placing all the side loads on a few spot welds...

Im not sure but it sounds like a good plan for what you have to work with. The sheet metal pan isnt gonna buckle up, its gonna provide alot of lateral support. And the frame will take all of the vertical support.

I like it.. JR

[Rhino]

I plan on building tabs that are boxed on the top side. I haven't had too much time to flesh it out yet, as I've been working primarily on my ride height and geometry. As soon as I get that hashed out, I'll put more thought into the packaging. My primary concern is that I will have the shocks canted inward a little. I'm not sure how long the ears will need to be to avoid interference with the frame. I may end up with a smaller, light weight cross member. It won't support the vertical load, but tieing both sides of the reinforcing angle together. By doing this I feel it will help share the torsional load being placed on the rails.

LowBuckX, could you do a similar crossmember, but have it tied to the top of the rails, in the trunk? I know you don't want to intrude into the floor, although I'm envisioning this being no more than 1" tubing. The intrusion would be minimal in my opinion.

[LowBuckX]

Im having a bit of a hard time envisioning that.

Here is my thought https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://img24.imageshack.us/i/shockmount.png/)

[LowBuckX]

Pics I promised.. I made all including axle clamp. My tig skill is progressing. The tab on bottom is for a for aft support.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
I know I have to cut into trunk for the link and mount to clear but it wont be major.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

[Bryce]

after seeing your drawing, i really think that your idea will work. You could tie the plates together from inside the trunk. Or if you put a cage in make that the tie point. Keep this in mind, NHRA requires a 6 inch by 6 inch plate for all roll cage attachments to the floor. So you might need to use a larger plate to spread the forces.

Nice looking upper third link bracket. We are at about the same point on our 3link projects. Good luck. Continue the good work.

[Damn True]

The LD 3-link mounts the shocks to the rear-most x-member which is also the mount for the watts link. Scour James Shipka's posts for some good photos of it.

[LowBuckX]

Whats the user name.. Searched James Shipka And found nothing.

[Damn True]

James OLC I think

[JRouche]

Pics I promised.. I made all including axle clamp. My tig skill is progressing. The tab on bottom is for a for aft support.

Good looking brackets.. You made those? They look laser cut. Very nice. What do you use to cut the plates for the brackets??? JR

[Rhino]

My guess would be a drill press, hole saw, and a lot of patience. :)

[MCMLXIX]

Whats the user name.. Searched James Shipka And found nothing.

http://www.onelapcamaro.com/build/rearsuspension.html

[LowBuckX]

My guess would be a drill press, hole saw, and a lot of patience. :)


Plasma cutter, cutoff wheels ,Bridgeport and lots of angle grinding..lol

[Damn True]

Plasma cutter, cutoff wheels ,Bridgeport and lots of angle grinding..lol

Nice work!

[JRouche]

Plasma cutter, cutoff wheels ,Bridgeport and lots of angle grinding..lol

Very nice. I am ok with the plasma. But no where that good. Nice cuts. Maybe I need more time on the angle grinder LOL.. Looks good.

If yer interested here is my hack job :)

https://www.pro-touring.com/forum/showthread.php?t=55420&page=3

https://www.pro-touring.com/forum/showthread.php?t=55420&page=2

Plasma, cutoff wheels and angle grinder too. Didnt did to turn on the bridgeport though. Cause its CNC and not much fun for one off parts. Id like to have a manual mill. I got all caught up with CNC and have two vert mills but they are both CNC. Kinda left myself hanging in the wind for one off parts. Oh, read Im not great on the computer. Hahaah. I spend more time trying to design something on the computer and it would have been done already on a conventional. So I pick up the angle grinder.

Ok, not to hijack this thread, Im sorry. But a quick recommendation for 4.5" angle grinder flap wheels while they are still on sale. The inexpensive ones from enco. They are imports. CGW is the brand. They are an Israel company, you know, like Iscar, good stuff that has a distribution where house in the states. But anyway. At 2 bucks a disc they are great!! I just got to try them today on some heavy steel. They eat great and dont lose abrasive like some cheap discs. Good adhesive. I just thought Id throw that out there for all the guys using the angle grinder as much as I do. Solly for the off topic stray.
http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?PMAKA=SV317-1246&PMPANO=0515229&PMKANO=235&PMKBNO=2021&PMPAGE=49&PARTPG=INLMPI

[jtm311]

Very nice. I am ok with the plasma. But no where that good. Nice cuts. Maybe I need more time on the angle grinder LOL.. Looks good.

If yer interested here is my hack job :)

https://www.pro-touring.com/forum/showthread.php?t=55420&page=3

https://www.pro-touring.com/forum/showthread.php?t=55420&page=2

Plasma, cutoff wheels and angle grinder too. Didnt did to turn on the bridgeport though. Cause its CNC and not much fun for one off parts. Id like to have a manual mill. I got all caught up with CNC and have two vert mills but they are both CNC. Kinda left myself hanging in the wind for one off parts. Oh, read Im not great on the computer. Hahaah. I spend more time trying to design something on the computer and it would have been done already on a conventional. So I pick up the angle grinder.

Ok, not to hijack this thread, Im sorry. But a quick recommendation for 4.5" angle grinder flap wheels while they are still on sale. The inexpensive ones from enco. They are imports. CGW is the brand. They are an Israel company, you know, like Iscar, good stuff that has a distribution where house in the states. But anyway. At 2 bucks a disc they are great!! I just got to try them today on some heavy steel. They eat great and dont lose abrasive like some cheap discs. Good adhesive. I just thought Id throw that out there for all the guys using the angle grinder as much as I do. Solly for the off topic stray.
http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?PMAKA=SV317-1246&PMPANO=0515229&PMKANO=235&PMKBNO=2021&PMPAGE=49&PARTPG=INLMPI

First I have seen your work..... Excellent!!

[JRouche]

First I have seen your work..... Excellent!!

Thanks John. Ummm. After scrolling through ALOT of pics on your site I gotta say Im humbled!!! Now YOU are doing some great fabrication... My 9yo son says to his buds when they ask what is that, pointing at my car. He say thats the car my dad is building... LOL He needs to see what it means to build a car. Im gonna show him your car. Thanks. JR

Johns' car build. Worth a looksee.... http://www.jtm311.com/main.htm

[Bjkadron]

Judging from your picture... yes that should work. You didn't include any measurements but Since your car is a unibody the floors should be heavier gauge.