Transmissions suggestions please

[Blitz]

Ok. So I've finally come to grips with having to ask for help.
I don't like it BUT...the alternative is experimenting with expensive components. Too much money.
I'll try to make this as short as possible to prevent any attention span issues. I had this posted somewhere else but may have painted TOO broad of a picture. I'm looking for suggestions for transmission, etc. to fit my style.
Keep in mind I'm new at classic American iron (sue me, lol) but not new to cars.
Feel free to dumb it down as much as you feel needed, I'll speak up if you're making me feel TOO dumb.

The car (65 Chevelle) runs a TH350 as of now. Uninspiring to say the least. Reminds me of an old truck the way it shifts.

Where I want to be: 90% Sporty Cruiser, 12's or better , 450-550hp for arguments sake.

Considered Bowler and TCI for programmability...$$$ 4l60e,4l65e,4l803, etc., who knows...

12 bolt soon to come in place of 10 bolt. Considered Currie or Moser, but not sure about gears.

What transmission? Why and from who? I really need an explanation here. Opinions are fine but mostly facts to improve my knowledge about what I'm doing.

If I AM able to run an electronic transmission with the 327, will I be able to utilitze electric gauges. I hate the bouncy mechanical gauges.

[Steve Chryssos]

I had a mint original 65 Riviera with a TH400. The driving experience was similar to what you describe. I was always waiting for another shift.

You mentioned the 4L's (60 and 80). It's good to clarify what you will get from a modern overdrive transmission.
-Overdrive
-Primary and final drive ratios optimized for overdrive
-Lock up
-Electronic programmability
-Evolutionary improvements in manufacturing and performance technology.
-Manumatic capability

Electronic trans swaps are not cheap, but it's good to know that you get a lot for your money. With 450 to 550 HP, you can go either way (60 or 80) with trans selection. Some people choose 80's at that power level because they can be run in basically stock form. Most choose upgraded 60 series. With typical 25-26" pro-touring tires, a 3.73 gear works best with 4L60E's in a street application. You can go 3.73 or even 4.11 with an 80, but I still prefer 3.73's.

Electric gauges are not a problem--especially with Compushift trans controllers. That's what we sell.

To get more specific, respond with vehicle specs such as engine specs, tire diameter and type, intended usage described as percent (i.e. 70% street, 20% drag, 10% autocross/road race). Available traction, power band, and intended usage are at least as important as peak horsepower.

[Blitz]

For right now it just has a 327, nothing special. I'm wanting something I can have now AND later when I can go LSx. I'll run 20x10's in the rear primarily and drop down to 18's with sticky rubber for any track time I might put in. I'm unsure of what street tire sizes so far but like the Nitto Invo. I would say I'm likely to keep it 80% street or more, with the likelyhood of more autocross track time than drag.

I may add a mild cam and aftermarket headers to tide me over until I get all the final components but for now I'm trying to figure out if I can have what I want now in a transmission and still use it for later.

[Steve Chryssos]

Given your input torque, available traction, and driving style, you'll be fine with a 4L60E. The only reason to go with an 80 is if you want to dig one out of a junkyard and run it bone stock. You're gambling on the transmission's condition. Even then, you'll want a shift kit and torque converter. You will also need a transmission controller. So figure out a budget and then decide if you want a fresh, upgraded trans or a take-out that can be freshened and upgraded later (or traded in as a core)

Either way, go with 3.73 gears and keep stall speed right around 2500 rpm.

[mjoc1]

go the cheaper route find a 700r4 or no computer needed. Or find a wrecked Ls powered car and pull the motor trans and computer all in one go. Still cheaper then an aftermarket trans only.

Mike

[Steve Chryssos]

Remember that you get something for the added expense of the computer: Fine tuning capability. You get to match shift firmness and shift timing to your vehicles exact specifications as well as your exact driving preferences.
-1-2 shift happening too late? Tweak the calibration.
-3-4 shift happening too early? Push some buttons.
-1-2 shift feels a bit harsh at 20% throttle angle? Soften it up.
-Want your lock up to kick in at a different speed?. Keep testing lower speeds until the drivetrain load exceeds input torque.
-Swapped final drive ratios or rear tire diameter down the line? Update the values in set-up.

And that fine tuning can possibly extend the life of the transmission. TPS sensors and vehicle speed sensors offer much greater resolution than vacuum modulators, TV cables, governers, etc. Electronic control also gives you other benefits like manumatic control. Compushift's controller even features an on-board rear wheel dyno simulator.

Nothing wrong with the 200R4. It has great gear ratios and it's compact. If it's set up right, firmness and timing can be very good. I just want to clarify that that electronic transmission control provides a lot of benefit for its added expense. A lot of people are turned off by the price as if the computer is just a necessary evil. Others are turned off by the computer itself. Setup and fine tuning are super easy--nothing like electronic fuel injection. We supply every unit with a custom calibration. The only perfect calibration is one that you custom tune yourself. So we also teach you how to tune as part of the deal. We've taught hot rodders all around the globe--usually under 15 minutes.

[IrvJr]

Remember that you get something for the added expense of the computer: Fine tuning capability. You get to match shift firmness and shift timing to your vehicles exact specifications as well as your exact driving preferences.
-1-2 shift happening too late? Tweak the calibration.
-3-4 shift happening too early? Push some buttons.
-1-2 shift feels a bit harsh at 20% throttle angle? Soften it up.
-Want your lock up to kick in at a different speed?. Keep testing lower speeds until the drivetrain load exceeds input torque.
-Swapped final drive ratios or rear tire diameter down the line? Update the values in set-up.

And that fine tuning can possibly extend the life of the transmission. TPS sensors and vehicle speed sensors offer much greater resolution than vacuum modulators, TV cables, governers, etc. Electronic control also gives you other benefits like manumatic control. Compushift's controller even features an on-board rear wheel dyno simulator.

Nothing wrong with the 200R4. It has great gear ratios and it's compact. If it's set up right, firmness and timing can be very good. I just want to clarify that that electronic transmission control provides a lot of benefit for its added expense. A lot of people are turned off by the price as if the computer is just a necessary evil. Others are turned off by the computer itself. Setup and fine tuning are super easy--nothing like electronic fuel injection. We supply every unit with a custom calibration. The only perfect calibration is one that you custom tune yourself. So we also teach you how to tune as part of the deal. We've taught hot rodders all around the globe--usually under 15 minutes.


I was going to say the same thing. In your case i would say 4l80. But i use a 2004r and its built right and works great.

[Roadrage David]

I second that on the 2004r have heard al the horror storys , but the ones i got from Bowtie overdrives(level3), are the best bang for your buck period.
1 and 2 shifts are like a manual full lock up 3e gear hase a little slip(comon) but not mutch 4e gear is lock up again.(i manual shift most of the time)

i have 17x11x315 rear wheel combo and a 530 hp 577lbs of torque 3.42 ratio. go to the out house section and look for Firebird vs Aston Martin. i have beat the crap out of it did 305 kmh(192mph) and not one hick up sins.
i iven shift back from 3 to 2e gear to brake on the trans when im road raceing. mind you i have 3 oil coolers and a deep oil pan to cool the thing!! but it NEVER runs hot!!!. witch i belive is instrumental in the sirvival of those kind of trannys......... so far so i dont need big heavy ecspensif electronic flip flap shifting trannys and al the stuf around it just a ordinairy Hurst quarter stick pistol grip shifter..

[71RS/SS396]

Call California performance transmissions and have Art Carr build you a 2004r they fit in the same space as a th-350. He has a ton of knowledge with these trans' from racing Grand Nationals and he's about half the price of TCI ( which I wouldn't use theirs if you gave it to me ) most of the horror stories about these trans' come from people having ones that someone built by someone that doesn't understand them.