View Full Version : Orange peel in sealer

09-19-2009, 04:20 PM
I have only posted a couple of times but i troll this site often. I just painted my 88 mustang gt and have a good amount of orange peel. My question is, this is the first time I haver ever sprayed a wet on wet sealer and I believe most of the Orange peel started in the sealer. I sprayed 3 heavey coats of clear to try to flatten it out as much as possable and even ended with some pretty good runs. Will wet sanding and pollishing take the orange peel look out even if it started in the sealer? This is the 4th car I have painted and never had the orange peel like this. I have never done a finish sand on a car before so any input on that would help also. I used the sherwin williams ultra 7000 and it is grabber blue in color. Thanks for the addvice I realy respect the oppinions on this site.

09-20-2009, 07:10 AM
As a guy who sucked a lot of paint fumes over the years, I can just say this. You know the answer......block it out and see what happens.

If you have enough material to cut and buff, it could be the best looking job you've every done. If you don't, keep sanding and shoot it again, but this time you wont need sealer because the color will already be there.

Either way, problem solved LOL

If you do have to shoot again, read the label closely. New materials really need to be sprayed the way they tell you. Pressure, tip, temp, and it even tells you how it will lay out (med wet and let flow, or apply to desired flow) The latter meaning spray it the way you want to see it because it wont lay out over time.

Good luck

09-20-2009, 08:02 AM
^^^ I agree 100 percent^^^

was it a solid color? If it was, your probably going to be ok. But if it was a metallic or pearl, you may be out of luck ( Im not sure if grabber blue is) If the orange peel is very heavy with those types of paint, you may see it even through the clear.

but as said, the only way you'll know for sure is to cut and buff it. Check the site for tips on buffing out paint. the biggest mistake I see made is people that don't spend the time. the more time you spend wet sanding and getting everthing smooth, the easier it will be to wheel it out.

I usually start out with 800 grit, then go 1000, then go 1500, then go 2000 grit. then it time to wheel it out, it doesnt take much at all. I use a wool pad with a heavy cut compound, then go to a foam pad with fine grit. then again with a foam pad I use whats called a microfinish compound with a dual action buffer. this helps eliminate swirl marks. Also, use a good buffer that is not over 1200 rpms and keep it moving, dont sit in one spot with it. be careful of edges, even with sanding. I usually just leave edges untouched while sanding and run the buffer up to the edge. that seams to take car of the edges without burn through. Also, concerning edges. You want to run the buffer off of the edge, not into it. Meaning that the rotation of the wheel, you want it going off the edge. this will prevent the wheel from grabbing the edge and diging into your paint. It can happen so fast you won't beable to react and your will have burn through spot.

But this is all from a novice painter. Some of the expert painters here or other places will surely have something to add, or do differently. This is what I do, and it seems to work out ok for me.

09-22-2009, 04:14 AM
what type of sealer was it?..like the guys said before, solid colors have a better tendencey to be cut and buffed to get rid of the peel...if you do cut through, grab some base ans blend it if it wont be too noticable...if it's a metallic, you might have to reshoot the panel or try to spot blend if you cut through into the base...i've used all kinds of sealers and most don't use heavy coats as it's just to provide a good, even shade to shoot over but keeps the bleeding and dye back down...try using some DP epoxy from PPG and reduce it down kinda like DuPont's value shade technique...used the DP on high-end euro's i used to do and it worked like a champ 99% of the time as you can't say 100%...

09-22-2009, 06:13 PM
Looks like I need to start wet sanding and keep a close eye and try not to cut through. Thanks for the suggestions. Railin93 it was valspar and painted sherwin williams ultra 7000

09-28-2009, 10:08 AM
i used the valspar base mine on an acura rsx one time and was not pleased with the results of the metallic blending...mottled and flattened real bad even with using DBC500...still didnt help any...sherwin williams was painted on my first GSX-R 600 back in '98 and it went on like glass...real weather and uv resistant too but took some good buffing to bringit up to high gloss!!...just try cutting and be real easy with it and go slow...watch your clear as you sand...cuz even if you don't sand thru , you can still go thru with buffing!