66 mustang tri 4bar

[stanglou]

I need to know what size rod ends and what diameter bar i should use for a 66 mustang, under 3000 lbs. it will be putting out about 500# torque, and has an 8in rear. thanks for the help
louie

[MrQuick]

Hey Louie,
1 1/4" DOM tubing with 3/4" ends should do fine,
Another alternative to spherical end links are Currie Johnny joints (http://www.currieenterprises.com/cestore/johnnyjoints.aspx) or Rubicon express joints (http://www.rubiconexpress.com/dynamic/mainpage.asp?folderid=788). They offer great weather protection and lubability, not to mention a 33 degree range of motion.

[stanglou]

i like the johnny joint idea. how much would you give up in the performance department running those. would it be good to run those for a top or bottom link or both. might be nice to relieve some of the nvh in a car that isn't 100% track. what do you think?

[MrQuick]

Haven't had them on the track yet? I really don't have hard evidence to compare to. I will be running a set of lowers on my 3rd gen come July. DOM is exspensive now days.




Side note, I wanna run an IRS on my 65', but am interested in front end options...I heard late model k member will fit an early car. Any truth to that?

[stanglou]

as far as late model crosmembers go, i dont know the ammount of modifications you would need to make it fit. there is actually quite a bit of room front to back in the 1st gen engine bays. I am making a crosmember that moves the engine back, acts as a rack mount, and acts as the lower control arm mount. it is actually a lot easier than you think, and has three advantages. the lower arm being level with the ground and having the pro motorsports drop give a great cambur curve. i wount tell you the exact height of the lower control arm, its fun to figure that stuff out. having the rack mounted on the same plane gives you zero bump if you have the right rack, mounting point. lastly moving the engine back will give you better weight distrobution. considering the ammount of work needed to get a late model cross member in, it would probably be easier to work out the goemetry and get out the welder for a day. while you are at it, lengthining the lower control arm, is a good idea. im going for about a 12in control arm on top, and a 17 in control arm on the bottom. look fo my products doing all of this comming soon

[MrQuick]

Thanks Lou, looks like we're in the same book but on different pages... :worship: please keep me informed of your progress. I've been throwing the full frame idea around too. Gotta get rid of some junk first.
Agreed the engine bay has room but not enough for the engine im running. ;)

[stanglou]

just out of curiosity, what engine are you running? i have a 351C and it is wide, but i got it in there without doing anything to the shock towers. just out of curiosity, would you be interested in buying suspension parts for the stang some day. Im trying to get a feel for what the market is like for the pieces im designing. i would keep the prices lower than all the major guys out there, but by the looks of it im going to have really good geometry. talk to you later

louie

[MrQuick]

Hey Lou,
I figure i'll wait till you get your set up done, check out pictures and just copy your stuff. We will have to see what you have lined up cause I may go a different route. Unknown at this point,but thank you.I will definatly keep you in mind.
I plan on running a 2003 Cobra running gear, with a Viper based IRS. Pipe dreams for days...ahhhh.... f-u cody ha ha
I would like to find a Linc 5.4L and run a magna-charger. Time will tell, like I said theres alot on my plate right now.