Getting Started...

[crazeflier07]

Hey guys have a few questions before I get started on my ride. I have a 98 Mustang that has some custom bodywork done to it already and needs final touch ups but overall is getting close to getting a paint job. I talked to the guy who is going to paint my car and to save myself some money I am going to do most of the disassembly myself. I was thinking though that since I am going to be doing this why don't I start doing some of the sanding and such to get started and maybe take some more money off the overall labor cost. I don't have to worry too much about rusting or anything and the car is in pretty straight shape so I just want to start sanding the car to get the clear off and maybe spray the car once with primer and block it to get it as close to straight as possible. I'm figuring after I take everything off it that needs to come off I could hit it with some 80 grit to start and then some 220 grit after I get through the clear. Does that sound alright or should I look at doing it a different way. I don't have a compressor at my place and probably won't be driving it to my friend's that has one after I've taken parts off so I'll be doing most of it by hand. Any help from you guys would be great since I really want to get her started. If the pics show from what I posted then this is what my car used to look like before I started on some of the work that was under the green primer and now is better then what is was then. Thanks in advance.
~Jon~
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/09/8084910011_large-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/09/8084910012_large-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/09/8084910015_large-1.jpg

[Hacker Joe]

your best thing to do is ask who is painting it how they want it done, they know what they like to work on. From what I understand you are working over good paint so I would prefer that you use no rougher than 320, I would really prefer it wet sanded with 500. unless the painter says so, (hes the one who has to deal with how it is prepped) PLEASE DO NOT TOUCH the car with 80, it will tear up the paint too much

[crazeflier07]

Thanks for hitting me back Hacker. Will the 320 or 500 remove the clear well enough? Since a lot of the car is in good paint I don't want to have someone rip me off by just re-spraying the car and only really prepping the trouble spots and not sanding down the rest of the car. They guy who is going to do my car is an honest guy but you never know since your not there. Don't want to have to deal with any bubbling or things like that later on ya know?
~Jon~

[Hacker Joe]

Ive been a painter for a long time and I always felt if you know what you are painting over (ie. good original paint) there is no reason to remove the old paint/ clear. If it is in good shape I would block it with 320 to get the old paint flat and find any problems. if you make sure you have everything sanded (shine gone) the paint will stick to the exsisting paint. but again I would only trust this on something you know the history of (original paint, no previous repairs, etc.) I have done atleast 10 cars that the owner prepped to save money and first thing I did was go over the car and show them what and how I wanted them to do.