hard time starting

[lt1chevelle]

the batt has 12volts and it cranks then makes a clicking sound. its a new batt and a new starter since the car has a lt1 in it with a comp and electric w/p could the voltage regulator not be alowing enough volts for it to crank? im out of ideals on what could be wrong:machine:

[novaderrik]

check your connections. a bad ground wil ldo what yo uare describing, and even a bad connection at the firewall.

[130fe]

When it is running, what are you getting voltage wise at the alternator (Big post on alternator). Just wondering if the alternator is charging the electrical system. Was the old battery bad?

[lt1chevelle]

the batt is new i have gone though a red top batt and 2 inerstate batts becuase i thought it could have been the batt cause the car dose not get drivin, when the cars running my volts gauge is reading 12volts and spikes up a little if i turn off my w/p but i have never took a reading from the post itself

[paul67]

you should be reading about 13.8-14.1 when running with all stuff on ie lights, heater etc ,where's the batt on car.Check grounds I had 1 not connected right and it was causing this fault.

[MonzaRacer]

Running voltage should be high 13s like 13.8.13.9 b are minimum. look for more like 14.2 to 14.8.
Charging amps with charged battery at idle with all accessories off should be no more than (at most) the max for ign and fuel pump fuses total. Most fuel pumps for FI or race pull around 4-6 amps, 2-4 for an ignition.
I generally use a amx of 20 amps at idle and would really only like to see this if you have a fan running.
another test is if you have the high13-14 volts is use a good volt meter that reads milliamps and your max AC current at the battery should never be over 50-60 mA (0.050-0.060) I prefer to see nearer to 0.040 give or take especially on new alternators.
AC bleed through the alternator meand its letting AC current through the diodes, and this will really cause isssues, like bad batteries, blown electronics, weird idle from FI cars.