car hauler sway control

[Tom Vogel]

I dont know where else to post this, so here goes. I just bought a 22' enclosed car hauler for my ride. Ive seen too many accidents envolving sway and jack knifes on TTs. What are you guys that have TTs doing on yours?

[My427stang]

Weight distribution hitch and a friction sway control.

Nothing fancy, the key really is to keep some weight on the hitch. If you have tongue weight, they really dont sway.

Load it too far to the rear though, they like to wiggle.

[68sixspeed]

Weight distribution hitch and a friction sway control.

Nothing fancy, the key really is to keep some weight on the hitch. If you have tongue weight, they really dont sway.

Load it too far to the rear though, they like to wiggle.

x2, friction sway control is a must if you are towing with a 1/2 ton truck. 3/4 ton or heavier it doesn't seem to be as big of a deal but it sure doesn't hurt and helps when the tractor trailers come by.

[parsonsj]

Get the proper truck (long wheelbase 3/4 ton), proper tongue weight, and it's not an issue.

Use a short wheelbase vehicle (like an SUV), and look out. White knuckle time!

jp

[David Pozzi]

Long wheel base tow vehicle, long or extended hitch on the trailer helps you "lead" the trailer around, it gives you more leverage. Around 10% of trailer weight should be on the hitch, then use an equalizing hitch with torsion bars to spread the hitch load to all four wheels of the tow vehicle. Another thing, keep good tires on your trailer and tow vehicle. It's cheap insurance. A blown tire can rip the heck out of an enclosed trailer.
David

[Bill Howell]

I am with John and David. The truck is your best friend. I have towed my 28' trailer all over the country and no special hitch, but have a lwb 3/4 ton truck. Usually you don't even know it is behind you.

[zbugger]

I've done some pretty long hauls with MrQuick from this site. We use his Suburban as our hauler. Believe me when I say that getting the tongue weight is probably the most important part of loading up. We usually only feel something if it's windy, or are offroading....

[parsonsj]

I've towed Bill's 28 ft trailer all over the country (really!), and with my big Duramax (or Bill's), it's no big deal.

Don't get me wrong, it's not like driving the wife's Mazda to the grocery store, but it's safe, comfortable, and low-stress compared to other combinations I've tried.

jp

[Tom Vogel]

OK... my tow vehicle is a 2006 GMC 2500 Duramax stretch cab with a 6' bed. I guess that qualifies as a lwb since its a stretch/king cab?
I get the tounge weight I guess... I need to have the car somewhat towards the front inside the trailer.
As for the friction sway bar, Ive got no clue... What are they? Which model is best. Im used to pulling a 27ft Alpenlite 5th wheel, which is no issue with sway or 'wiggle'.
If it matters, the trailer is a 24' Nashcar Aero aluminum. It weighs 3000lbs. empty, and rides on dual 6000lb. torsion bar axles with 4 wheel electric brakes. Trailer is 6" higher than stock. My car weighs 4000lbs.+/-.

[parsonsj]

Tom,

I don't think you need anything other than a Class 4 hitch with that Duramax. Get the tongue weight right and boogie down the road.

jp

[Bill Howell]

Here is my unscientific method of loading a different car in my trailer.
Measure your rear bumper to ground distance with trailer empty. Remember that number. Load car into trailer, easing it forward until your bumper moves down about two inches. strap car down at that point and run up the road to see how it feels. If it wants to sway, move car forward just a bit. If the trailer feels heavy, move the car rearward a tad. Do what feels right. You will know when something is wrong.