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wellis77
07-21-2009, 10:46 AM
Alright guys. Here's a place where we can discuss how we are all wiring these things up. If I do this correctly, below you will see the spreadsheet I have put together. Let the fun begin...

So I couldn't get it to display in the thread but you can download it and check it out. Hopefully that gives you some ideas and guidance.

The WidowMaker
07-21-2009, 01:03 PM
thanks for the list. i could lose;

- cruise control
- 1 power lock output with my poppers
- rear tail light since i would use a single bulb for the turn and light. plus the side marker lights are shaved.
- rear defrost
- constant power sources since i would only have a stereo and wouldnt mind just powering it
- reverse lights if im really in a bind for outputs (not going to buy another just to run these)
- amp (see below)

whats the reason for powering the amp seperate? in my previous installs i used switched power from the head unit. could this still work?

any input?

Tim

wellis77
07-21-2009, 08:59 PM
The reason for powering my amp through ISIS is no other reason than the switches I am using. I'm using a billet aluminum momentary switch for everything except windshield wipers. I'm using a momentary switch because ISIS has a personality that allows me to use the momentary but act as a latching switch, AND the momentary switches are less expensive than the latching. Normally I would wire it to a switch from the head unit as you are doing.

The only thing I may have to add for my build at this point is power windows. I haven't decided on a kit yet so I'm unsure how those would wire. I may have to make some changes if like the locks, I would need multiple outputs per window, which can get to be a lot if I do power windows on my quarter windows as well.

Roadbuster
07-21-2009, 11:52 PM
Alright guys. Here's a place where we can discuss how we are all wiring these things up. If I do this correctly, below you will see the spreadsheet I have put together. Let the fun begin...

So I couldn't get it to display in the thread but you can download it and check it out. Hopefully that gives you some ideas and guidance.

Wells77 I am working on my own list based on yours.

How would you account for dash indicator lights? Left turn, right turn, High beam? Do these require their own outputs?

Do you need to add an output to power the coil or HEI distributor?

I think you need a list of switches as the inputs. Don't forget door pin switches and such.

For custom programming LED tail and turn lights that come on and off slowly like the originals would be a cool addition. You get the bright LEDs but they act like the bulbs.

Sorry its abrupt. I'm tired.

Jon

wellis77
07-22-2009, 12:23 AM
GO TO BED Jon! My excuse is I'm in Switzerland so I'm good...

Dash indicators do NOT need their own output. You simply connect the dash indicator to its appropriate circuit, i.e. bright indicator gets connected to the brights output, same with the turn signals.

I'm attaching a chart ISIS put together for Factory Five Racing's Cobra Kit as they are an option for wiring. This really helped me a lot when I first started considering how to setup outputs. In fact, you'll see a lot of similarities between this chart and mine.

I'm running a new Hemi in my car so I won't have the traditional goodies for ignition, but I'm pretty sure coil or HEI distributor is looped in with the ignition circuit. We may need to have Jay answer that, or somebody else who has experience wiring this in. I don't know what James is running in the OLC but maybe he can lend some insight on the coil/HEI if I'm wrong.

I am working on an input chart but it's not ready yet but will hopefully be in the next day or two. As soon as it is, I'll put it up.

I'm not 100% sure on the LED tail & turns but it could probably be programmed. Maybe using the Pulse Width Modulation personality or possibly the Radiometric PWM. That would likely be a program ISIS would write and send to you.

wellis77
07-22-2009, 12:29 AM
Not sure if you all have seen the installation guides page on the ISIS website, but here is a link and there are a bunch of different guides that may be helpful:

http://www.isispower.com/installation-guides.html

ccracin
07-23-2009, 09:54 AM
How are you guys handling power windows if at all? I am to understand that the ISIS unit cannot run power windows, sun roofs, etc directly. I think it is a problem with bi-directional switches. Any thoughts?

wellis77
07-23-2009, 10:23 AM
I haven't looked into how the windows work but if it's similar to two-wire power locks, you need two outputs per motor, one to up, one to go down. However, ISIS is coming out with a new module later this year called inMOTION that specifically handles motors, windows, moon roofs, convertible tops, anything that is designed to work as reverse polarity. They are in the finishing stages of testing from what I understand and will have it available this year. Eventually I'll be picking one of these up. To be honest I'm not going to begin wiring for another year so I have time for them to come out with this. If I needed it right away, I would have the option of using two outputs per motor. Hope that answers your question.

Roadbuster
08-02-2009, 08:37 AM
Wellis77,
I did some more thinking and research. My plan to set the system up is with one power cell in the engine compartment, the master cell inside the car, and an additional powercell in the trunk. Looks like I cannot eliminate as much of the interior wiring as I would of liked. To minimize it and for max safety the high power stuff will be short leads so I want the power cell close to the headlights. That means I have to run wires back to the dash for the indicator lights or run them from the trunk mount cell.
I was hoping to just have the communication wire go through the firewall. It still might be possible if I can run everything else from the trunk cell.
Does this make sense?

Jon

wellis77
08-02-2009, 08:46 AM
I think I follow what your saying Jon. I can understand why you would want the powercell close to the headlights, but I would bet if you asked anybody running just the 3 cell kit, a powercell and the mastercell are inside the car and the other powercell is in the trunk. I'm unaware of any issues running power to headlights from inside the car. Running leads to headlights from inside to the headlights is no different than a traditional wire harness. Something to keep in mind and allow you to use a bit less wiring. Prior to deciding to run the xtra powercell, I was planning to do exactly what I just mentioned. You would only have one high power wire running forward to the lights versus all the wires coming back to the indicators on the dash. I would leave it inside the car and run the one wire forward. Will