and so it begins

[WS6]

Well, as some of you know I totaled my 96 Formula back on Feb 28th. I got out of school for the summer on May 8th. That day I started tearing the car apart to get the drive train out and part the rest of it for money. The plan for this summer is to put the LT1/T56 combo into my 79TA and make it driving again. I don't have a lot to spend so I'm doing it cheaply but correctly. Unfortunately, in order to get the car rolling down the road again with the LT1 in it, I need to do brake work as well. So I'll be updating this as I go with more than just the LT1/T56 swap. I plan to get pretty detailed once I get into the LT1 swap part itself. I figure it is bound to help someone with a second gen. There aren't too many of us here yet.

For now though, I'll start with tear down photos of the TA and some clean up. I'm moving quickly on the car so I'll have more to show soon. It's just a matter of getting the pics uploaded and replies typed up.

Yes, the motor is green. Laugh all you want. I do not care. What you're looking at is a heads/cam 403 with a TH350 behind it.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/06/PICT0801-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/06/PICT0804-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/06/PICT0806-1.jpg

As you can see, I'll have some rot repair to do also. No way this is going back on without being fixed or replaced first. I have some plans though for strengthening it before I put the core support back in. I'll be building for function not restoration.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/06/PICT0808-1.jpg

She is actually running in this picture. I had to get the car from behind the shop into the shop. It's the last time that engine ran in this car. The person who bought the drive train has a 79 SE TA. He's using mine to teach his sons how to work on and build engines. He already has a motor in his TA.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/06/PICT0837-1.jpg

Hood fenders inner and out removed.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/06/PICT0842-1.jpg

More of the rot from the battery. The battery is being relocated to the trunk as part of the swap.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/06/PICT0843-1.jpg

Front clip completely removed at this point

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/06/PICT0845-1.jpg

And now the subframe is stripped and ready to pull

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/06/PICT0864-1.jpg

This picture shows what the subframe looked like before I started cleaning away the rust, dirt, and grime. You can also see a section I have completed and my tool for getting this mess off the metal. Aside from sand blasting, the wire wheel on the end of an electric die grinder works tremendously well. You have to wear gloves, eye protection, and ear protection. The thing is a monster. The only downside is getting into tight spaces. It really can't do that very well but if you're working quickly and on a tight budget, this thing works wonders. It'll also tear through undercoating pretty well. The wire wheel won't harm the metal like you would think it should.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/06/PICT0872-1.jpg

All clean and wiped down with Ospho to convert any rust still on the metal.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/06/PICT0883-1.jpg

[WS6]

Here it is all primed and painted. From using the wiring wheel to clean the metal to painting, all I did was clean away any crap still left around with different solvents. I didn't need to work the metal any more as far as sanding goes or anything. See, the wire wheel doesn't harm the metal.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/06/PICT0914-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/06/PICT0935-1.jpg

And back on the front of the car. I have GW 1/2" drop body bushings on the car. To align the subframe, there are two alignment holes in the body right by the forward body mounts. You'll need a 5/8" dowel to slide into the holes in the subframe and the body to get the alignment right. It turns out that my 1/2" ratchet extensions are close enough to 5/8" that I used them to get the subframe aligned correctly.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/06/PICT0964-1.jpg

Well, I don't have the close up picture of the paint any more. Apparently, some of my files got corrupted and I've lost a number of them. I had some fun ones of my setting the water in the gas tank on fire. Those were cool.

Here's the fuel pump and sending unit out of my 96 Formula. My 4th gen tank was metal so I was also able to cut the top off so I could have the mounting ring and seal to adapt to the 2nd gen tank. The sending unit is spring loaded to force the pump down onto the bottom of the tank. It also has a decent range of motion so you should be able to use it in many different tanks. The gauge sender even has full range of motion inside the 79 tank so I will have accurate gauge readings. It does not have it's own sump or internal pressure regulator like a late LS1 4th gen would have. Again, I'm on a budget and this will work just fine. I'm crossing my fingers that this fuel pump with 177k miles on it will still live for a while yet in my 79's tank.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/06/PICT0965-1.jpg

Here's the 79s tank with the outline of where I plan to cut the tank and install the 96's pump.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/06/PICT0966-1.jpg

I ended up cutting further than I thought becuse of a large cylinder object on the inside of the tank around the return tube inlet. Notice the raised ring? That's got to come out as a unit.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/06/PICT0968-1.jpg

The idea of how the 96 pump will sit in the tank. It should be obvious at this point that it will indeed work just fine. I'll have to change the metal lines coming out of the unit but that's no big deal.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/06/PICT0970-1.jpg

Poster board mock up of the replacement panel.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/06/PICT0974-1.jpg

New panel and mounting ring from 96 welded in place. I had some more in between photos of what I did but they too were corrupted. It's pretty self explanitory though. Just make a panel that hold the mounting ring and tuse fuel pump in the correct location. The later larger 2nd gen tanks need to make sure they are far enough into the large section to not have the gauge sender float get caught on the lower section. It won't read accurately then. You early 2nd gen guys with the shallow tank should still be able to use this pump and sender if you desired. You'll have to shorten the arm on the fuel lever float though.

Also, my welding sucks at this point in time. I'm getting better though. Feel free to laugh at it as well. If you can tell what I may need to work on in terms of my skills, speak up. I'm never above learning a new way or listening to advise.

I did add a couple baffles to each side of the tank. Nothing fancy really. I'm not even sure if they will work. What I did was lean them in towards the pump. Each baffle is about 6" long and I set them against the back wall of the tank. It's not formed to the curvature it's just against it for the most part. Each one was cut about 3/4 of the way through in the middle. I then took the metal and bent it away from the cut. They look like funnels for the most part. The idea was that as you turn the gas will slide up and over the one baffle but not back out to one on the opposite side of the pump.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/06/PICT1023-1.jpg

All painted and protected since it was 22ga steel and I removed the zinc off the tank to do my welding. Notice I taped up where the seal will seat to make sure nothing interfers with that seal working correctly. The tank and new panel shouldn't leak..... too much.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/06/PICT1026-1.jpg

[Mr.VENGEANCE]

man those year TAs are so boss...

[Takid455]

Not harm for having a green engine. One I did for fun in a 78
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

Its very close to Mopar's Lime green. I actually tinted it with black b/c the original color blinded me in the sun light.

Good luck with the swap. the t56 install is not that bad, but you will need some custom items such as x-member, driveshaft and a viper tail if you want the shifter to be in the stock 4spd location. my build has some pics. I also installed a 4th gen fuel pump in a 2nd gen tank. the gauge should read semi accurate, but I'm leaving the stock unit in there initially to test it.

keep the progress coming.

[Young Gun]

looks good Trey!

[CliffS]

Sweet! Did you changed motor mounts on the sub for your LT1 combo?

[WS6]

Yes, Cliff. My next round of pictures will show the new location and I'll add the old location in there too.

Thanks guys

[PARKERRS]

Looking good Trey, glad to see some progress and your workmanship looks top notch.

[shawn_s]

looks good so far, ill be keeping an eye on this. hoping to swap and LSx + T56 into a 79-81 TA this winter

[WS6]

It'll be very similar Shawn. My original plan was a stroked LQ along the same lines as Tommy's car only more budget friendly:) I wanted to be able to say I had a Gen 3 6.6. Since the accident though, I obviously changed my mind. The ultimate plan at this point will be to build a turbo LT1. My goals are around 500 rwhp and lots of torque. I've got some tricks I think I'll try to bring boost in as early as I can. Overall though, the engine will be simple and reliable and still make my goals. Once I get the engine into the car this summer, I'll have a better idea of how things will fit. At this point, I'm just envisioning things in my head. Besides, it'll be a few years before I can build it anyway. I graduate next year and will start working. I have no idea where I'll end up. I may end up in northern Canada working for an oil company or Dubai even.

Thanks Tommy. I need to check for updates on yours too.

[Motown 454]

Nice work the subframe and tank look great..

[Alan66ss]

Trey,

looks like fun. keep at it and keep the progress pics coming.

Alan

[WS6]

Just a short update this week unfortunately. I've got to make money so that takes up my time on my own car.

I got the front suspension back on and detailed. I didn't want to black everything out so I found a gun metal gray to paint on the steering components. I would have preferred a darker gray but this will do.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/06/PICT1037-1.jpg

In these two pictures, you can compare the engine mount locations between the 403 Olds and the SBC. The SBC sits higher and further towards the front of the car.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/06/PICT1036-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/06/PICT0860-1.jpg

I've pulled everything off the driver's side of the firewall in anticipation of cutting and welding the panel to hold the clutch master cylinder. Some of the holes won't be needed any more anyway. MY Ta was fairly loaded from the factory in terms of options. It appears that all they did to accommodate these options was to hole saw the firewall and install a grommet. There is a lot of add on harnesses under the dash. Some of it will be cleaned up this time around. The final and next time I go in to this car, everything will be custom and much cleaner. More on the electrical later though.

Now you seem them

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/06/PICT1040-1.jpg

Now you don't

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/06/PICT1042-1.jpg

The square hole that was filled by the wiper motor is where the factory throttle cable came though. I'll be switching to a Lokar cable and that requires a round hole. Also, I rev match on downshifts constantly. So, I may be moving my gas pedal or brake pedal if they don't feel right once I have the new brake pedal in. Remember, my car was an auto. I've never driven a 4 speed 2nd gen. All the 4 speed vettes I have driven had bad pedal placement. So if I move my gas pedal over, I'll have to move the throttle cable too.

Here's the booster all cleaned down and ready to paint. I really do not like cad coating. It just looks bad. I've painted the booster a semi gloss black just don't have a picture yet.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/06/PICT1039-1.jpg

This is just the back end area around the gas tank. I've wire wheeled it down and treated it with Ospho as well. I've got it painted black now just need to also take a picture of it.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/06/PICT1044-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/06/PICT1045-1.jpg

Well, that's it for now. Welding those holes up on the firewall was a pain. I couldn't get my welder to act right. I'm learning as I go so I did my best. Thinking back, I think I should have turned up the power. I couldn't get the weld to stick as first. Anyway, it's done well enough for me. Eventually, everything will be redone and better anyway. That's years from now though.

Next up, is to continue to play with the clutch pedal and getting the clutch MC mounted. My pedals came in today. Hopefully, I can get through my customer's cars and back to mine. I'll also be showing what I plan to do with the fuel lines in the back of the car at the tank area. Stay tuned.

[WS6]

Well, it took me a long time to orient the clutch pedal correctly. I didn't use anything pre-made or anyone else template. I got it done though. Before I sold off my M6 pedals out of the Formula, I measured a bunch of different points on the pedals so I could replicate the clutch MC's location in relation to the pedal.

Here's where my quick measurements told me the MC would come through the firewall at. The hole that's already in the firewall is where the factory 4 speed clutch rod would have come though.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/06/HPIM0700-1.jpg

I crossed my fingers and cranked up the die grinder to make room.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/06/HPIM0701-1.jpg

And here's the MC mocked up. I was close with my initial cut. I did take a little more out to move the MC up some.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/06/HPIM0706-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/06/HPIM0707-1.jpg

I checked the pedal travel and it does not hit the MC before it moves the MC rod the needed distance. I'll more than likely need to make a pedal stop though.

I talked with a number of other people that have done this swap before an 2 inches from the pedal pivot is the consensus on what the best location is to connect the pedal to the MC rod. Taking measurements to confirm that the pedal would move the MC rod the needed amount verified that 2inches was going to work on my car as well. Sure, these cars were the same for many years but I wanted to verify and know why, not just blindly copy and hope it's the same. I decided to tap my pedal instead of drill a through hole and use a bolt and nut.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/06/HPIM0702-1.jpg

Moving back to the firewall, I confirmed the angle of the mounting plate with my angle finder. I needed around 12 or 13* to replicate the factory mounting orientation for this MC. I ended up right around 11*. I'm sure this will be fine. To verify that the car was not tilted and thus throwing off my angle readings, I took an angle measurement at the brake booster location. This part of the firewall is perpendicular to the brake pedal and my 12 or 13* readings on the factory M6 pedals were with the booster mount part straight up as well.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/06/HPIM0712-1.jpg

Here's an ugly mid progress weld up of the mounting plate. My welding is getting better but still sucks as far as I'm concerned. I'm glad grinding disks exist.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/06/HPIM0709-1.jpg

All finished and ground down. Like I said, thank goodness for grinding wheels. This setup with be plenty strong. I used 16ga steel for the plate and the angle plates. The brake booster and the steering column will both help strengthen the firewall in this area. I'm not worried one bit about any flexing of the firewall.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/06/HPIM0714-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/06/HPIM0715-1.jpg

[WS6]

Here's the mounting plate all finished off and beautified as much as I care to make it. Obviously it's not show quality but it works and I'm happy with the way it looks.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/06/HPIM0723-1.jpg

I am missing pictures again. I had a couple with the booster and clutch MC in place. I'll have to get them later I guess. Here are inside shots of everything all done. I wish I had a pneumatic nibbler so I could have made the firewall look better from the inside. All I have is a cutoff wheel and sawzall. Oh well, I've retained all mounting holes and locations so I should be able to cover up most of it. Here's the pedal completed

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/06/HPIM0732-1.jpg

One a side note, my brake pedal and clutch pedal pads are communist :) I had to channel the clutch pedal pad though. I was told it was the same size as the brake pedal. I bought two brake pedal pads since no clutch pedal pad was listed. It was too wide for the clutch pedal. I've remedied that problem though.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/06/HPIM0728-1.jpg

One other thing I did was move my accelerator pedal over towards the brake pedal by 3/4". This will allow me to rev match my downshifts easier. I typically have half a foot on the brake pedal and just roll my foot over to rev the engine. I can't do that crazy heel on one pedal and toes on the other form of heel toe shifting.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/06/HPIM0730-1.jpg

Here's the engine in its new home. This is just mock up though. I'll get pulled back out again. It was a royal pain in the but to get in the subframe. The motor mounts took a lot of persuading to do what I wanted them to do. The engine looks good in there though.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/06/HPIM0733-1.jpg

I was not expecting this though. This isn't going to work. It won't allow me to get shims in there to adjust the alignment even after I've removed that spark plug loom. I need to come up with a solution. I my just have to switch over to C4 accessories now instead of later.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/06/HPIM0734-1.jpg

I'm also thinking I should just lower the engine into the subframe some more instead of cutting my floor. Look at all that space between the engine and subframe. I can go down maybe an inch and still have the oil pan above the subframe bottom. We'll see though.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/06/HPIM0737-1.jpg

I did get the T56 mocked up as well. There's going to have to be some cutting of the floor if I don't lower the engine. I have 1/2" body drop solid bushings on the subframe. I may have been able to get the trans in without cutting the floor if I did not have those bushings. I'm not worried about it though. I already needed to cut a hole for the shifter. Next week I'm going to attempt to get all that situated and hopefully have the engine and trans fully in the car with the transmission cross member made up and everything. Only time will tell though and it's still just for mock up anyway. I've got brake lines I have to bend up before I can leave the engine in. I may even have power steering lines to bend up as well. That will depend on if I stay with this accessory bracket or do I move to a C4 bracket.

[Motown 454]

Nice progress it looks good

[WS6]

Ok so I missed my last week's update because I was out of town. Thought I'd get another one in before I leave town tomorrow as well.

I'll start off where I left off. I did indeed have to cut the floor on the car. I'm not sure if the 1/2 drop body mounts where the reason or not. It matters not now as the floor is done.

This was my initial hole size. I cut from under the car because my interior is still in the car. I got covered in sparks. Next time, I'll cut from the inside of the car, lol.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/07/HPIM0738-1.jpg

Here's the transmission raised up into place. I had to go much larger than my initial cut out but it wasn't as bad as I thought it was going to get.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/07/HPIM0747-1.jpg

I used poster board over the cut out to make a template for the new tunnel. You can see the shop light shinning through the poster board. This allowed me to mark where the whole was and where the new panel would sit. I wanted some over lap for welding and strength. I also used some metal strips to simulate the curvature of the new tunnel.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/07/HPIM0752-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/07/HPIM0748-1.jpg

Here's the new panel tacked into place and with some forming already done. I used 16ga again which was not easy to bend. However, it's strong and free so I'm using it.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/07/HPIM0754-1.jpg

This will work out well I think

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/07/HPIM0755-1.jpg

I don't know why but I don't have any of the panel finished from the inside of the car. I fully welded it around the seams and formed it tot he floor rather well I think. I have no training or experience in metal working like this. I simply used a hammer and dolly along with vise grips to get the penal into place and to fit the floor well.

Here's a couple pictures of the new panel from under the car. I welded the under side the same way as I did the top side. This may be overkill but it was worth the time. The new panel is rock solid.

As you can see, I had to cut into the brace that the factory had running side to side just under the seats. I really wish I had sub frame connectors because I would have built a similar brace/ transmission cross member to what DSE offers. That's on my list for future upgrades though.

I ended up cutting too far into the brace but that's ok I'm sure. I should have cut this better the first time around but I cleaned it and squared it up before I started to close it out and reinforce it.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/07/PICT1146-1.jpg

All closed off and reinforced. It's not pretty but it will hold. I have no idea why the top welds turned out so poor. Could this be because I'm welding upside down and gravity is doing it's thing? There was plenty of heat penetration into the new tunnel panel.

I used my new favorite die grinder attachment to clean up the welds, a flap wheel. I had no idea it would grind so well and leave a nice smooth finish. Before, I was just using a grinding disk. No more from here on out. I'm only using the flap wheel.


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/07/PICT1147-1.jpg

[WS6]

The factory transmission cross member can be used to hold a T56 up. It will need to be modified of course. I'm not sure if the 4 speed one is different or not but this is what a TH350 xmember looks like for 79

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/07/HPIM0756-1.jpg

I had to shorten the brace because the sub frame changes shape right where the brace will now mount. This is an initial line I drew as a guide. I tried using my cutoff wheel to cut the xmember. It will work but I was impatient so I grabbed the chop saw :)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/07/HPIM0759-1.jpg

After a couple trial fits to make sure the width of the member was right, I cut the mounting pad off and cleaned up the old welds. From here, I'll need to drill holes in the sub frame so I can properly mount the xmember. I'll then flip the mounting pad over and weld it on the in the proper location. I'll be attaching it in such a manner that I can put spacers between it and the transmount. This should allow me to get the drive line angle dialed in better.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/07/PICT1150-1.jpg

I'll have to get the engine and transmission back in the car first though. I hope to do that next week. We will see.

I did get the clutch fluid reservoir mounted as well. It should work out well right here.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/07/PICT1145-1.jpg

I leave you this time with a picture of what's to come soon as well. mmmmmmmm Kore3 parts :)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/07/PICT1156-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/07/PICT1157-1.jpg

[Mr.VENGEANCE]

damn Trey.. talk about head first into the project..

itll be great tho.. the subframe and parts look serious.. now you gotta make the rest match.. LOL!

[WS6]

haha not going to happen this time around. School starts back in a month(August 17). I'm not going to have this running by then like I was hoping. I'm shooting for getting it back on the road by the end of the year. My two biggest expenses to come are gauges and rims/tires. I'm doing my best to find some rims/tires used but it's not working out so well. I still have to buy rear brakes too. One day it will all be done though and then I'll start on another one.

Thanks

[1971CHEVELLE]

Awesome project :1st:

[cdoggy81]

Trey, great work so far!

What were you thinking for rear brakes? Your 79 TA should already have rear disc. You want to go to something bigger I assume? Best bang for the buck, go with the LS1 rear set then. $39 adapter plate & a $75 trip to the local junk yard & you are set :)

What size rims/tires? You may want to check out the Eagle Alloy or Boss rims. You can find them all day on the net for $150 to $200. Here are examples of the more popular TT II copies:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

[WS6]

I was looking at the C5 rear brakes so I could run the internal parking brake. Is this what you're referring to or are you talking about the LS1 Fbody rear brakes? I do have rear discs now and they suck. I almost wish I had rear drums to start with because my brake problems most likely wouldn't exist and the solution to the problem by upgrading could have possibly been put off until I had more money. Oh well, 13's front 12's rear sound good to me!

For rims I was thinking of the YO 17 cast snowflakes but am not sure they will fit. I'll have to make a trip up there with the template off Kore3's website to verify they fit. My next option was to find some BMW M Parallel rims. I'd go for the machined finish http://www.lakeshorewheelandtire.com/specials/bmw-5-18-staggered.shtml

I'm looking for ideas and used rims as well. My problem with the BMW rims is the metric bolt pattern and 18" tires. 18" tires cost more obviously. The metric bolt pattern is close. Actually, it is very close to the stock GM pattern. That's not good enough for me. I want exact which means adapters and more $$$. I think they look great though and have found take off sets with tires for $1000 or less. I missed them though as it was a search on CL and they were not recent ads. I don't want anything polished or chromed if buying new. If used, spray paint will change the finish in a heartbeat :)

Thanks everyone.

[WS6]

Finally another update. I was tied up working on an L98 vette that was giving me hell. It's done now though so on with my car.

Got another new item in for the car.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/08/PICT1185-1.jpg

This is a DeWitt's radiator. You're probably saying Dewhat who? DeWitt's makes the best radiators for Corvettes, period. Their Direct Fit line of radiators work fantastically and they even offer correct date coded and all radiators for people wanting restoration radiators. Anyway, since I love their product and I happen to be a dealer for them, I thought I'd check with them to see if they had something close to my stock HD radiator. Turns out that GM used that particular size of radiator in a couple of different vehicles of the era. They didn't just have one that was close, they had an exact one. All that was necessary was for them to put straight outlets on the radiator instead of the bent ones that would normally be on a C3(in this case) Corvette. While they were at it, I had them size the upper hose for the modern LTx/LSx engines(1-5/16" versus 1-1/2" of yester-year) and add the steam port which you see below the upper inlet. The radiator admittedly isn't cheap compared to the low end ones you can get from Summit but it's right in line with anyone looking to use the higher end Be Cools, Griffins, or Ron Davis radiators. I'll be using my stock 96 radiator fans to pull air through the radiator. I won't have any cooling issues. Oh, I did have them put the drain **** in the Corvette location instead of factory TA location. It's now located on the bottom under the outlet port. I'll have to drill a hole in the core support to make it work but that's no problem. I always hated that the radiator would drain right onto the steering box and spray everywhere.

Next up, brakes! I'm reusing my factory 96 master cylinder. The lines I have bent up myself since I am using a t block for the front and an adjustable proportioning value for the rear. I had some stainless line left over from another project so I used it for the front crossover tube. The rest are steel. Because the MC has ports on the inboard side, I had to bend the lines to clear the steering shaft. It's not the prettiest job I've ever done but I'm more interested in function and not spending more on steel tubing.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/08/PICT1195-1.jpg

If you'll notice, I've tucked the prop valve behind the inner fender. That's the inner fender mount right below the valve. I HATE seeing prop valves under the hood of cars. Hide the thing already. On a street car you'll more than likely get it adjusted and never touch it again. Besides, putting it where I did allowed me to only shorten and bend the factory line to the rear brakes. I just needed to buy a different tube nut to fit the prop valve. Saving money where ever I can.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/08/PICT1196-1.jpg

Onto the spindle modifications needed in order to run 13in brakes on the front. I read the directions supplied by Kore 3 carefully before beginning. I would suggest getting online and looking at the directions in PDF form. The picture for where to cut is much bigger and clearer. Triple and quadruple check your lines before your cuts. Think about how you are going to make your cuts as well. You do not want to mess this up. Here's the lines I drew to guide me on my cuts. I just used a silver sharpie. As you can see in the one picture, I drew over my lines with a black sharpie so as to not get confused over which line I wanted to follow

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/08/PICT1199-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/08/PICT1201-1.jpg

Here are my initial cuts. My weapon of choice was the Makita sawzall. It worked great and only took one blade for both sides. WEAR A DUST MASK THOUGH! I did not think it would create a lot of dust. Shavings and bits of metal, yes. Dust, no. I cut the first spindle without a mask. I was sneezing and blowing my nose for two days.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/08/PICT1203-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/08/PICT1205-1.jpg

This picture shows why you have to change the curve in the spindle. That's the bolt that will hold the C6 calipers to the mounting bracket.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/08/PICT1207-1.jpg

I used a grinding disk to rough in the cuts and finished everything off with a flap wheel. Notice how I contoured and smoothed everything. This prevents any stress points that could be starting points for cracks. It also makes everything nice looking. The directions are great and tell you to do this and for the same reasons.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/08/PICT1215-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/08/PICT1217-1.jpg

[Motown 454]

Looking good .

[cdoggy81]

Good stuff buddy, keep it up :)

[WS6]

In this picture, I have already painted the bare metal parts of the spindle and have drilled and tapped the caliper mounting brackets. You must take your time with the drilling and tapping. Neither one is very difficult but both are very easy to screw up. Cast iron is very rough and will dull a drill bit if you spin it too fast. So use a good bit and go slow. Also. use cutting oil not motor oil. Use oil for both drilling and tapping. Get a second set of eyes to watch and mach sure you stay level and perpendicular to the bosses so you don't mess up. You can not go too slow with the tapping of the threads. After you have tapped the threads, use a countersink bit to debur and slightly counter sink the holes. This will allow the bolts to start easier. You may also notice the paint is now gone from the bosses. I used a flat file to remove the paint and any burs left over. Make sure you keep the file flat though.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/08/PICT1221-1.jpg

I did a dry test fit of the hub and bearings as well as the rotor and calipers. I selected the 1/2 screw in studs instead of the M12 press fit ones. Be sure to lubricate the studs before putting them in. You can just snug them up. They won't back out as you try to put lug nuts on. They will work the same way studs do on cylinder heads.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/08/PICT1223-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/08/PICT1224-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/08/PICT1226-1.jpg

Here's the clearance around the caliper mounting bolt that I showed earlier.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/08/PICT1228-1.jpg



Well that's it for tonight. It's late and I'm a slow typist so I'll be back tomorrow. I'm working on the core support now. It's really messed up. I'll have pictures tomorrow.

[Samckitt]

Awesome work. Keep us posted.

[Motown 454]

Nice Work, it looks good.

[TPI Monte SS]

Looking great, nice work!!

[CliffS]

Looking sharp Trey!!

[WS6]

Ok so I didn't update a few days ago like I said I would. Life got in the way. Oh well.

The last major work that needs to be done is fixing the core support. Everything else is easy to me. The core support for my car was in bad shape. Exhibit 1 is the passenger side ie non battery side of the core support all nicely sand blasted.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/08/PICT1211-1.jpg

Exhibit 2 is the driver's side which did have the battery. This side is trashed. I didn't both sand blasting it as I will be cutting it out entirely and rebuilding it.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/08/PICT1212-1.jpg

I decided that I was going to modify the core support in an effort to strengthen it which in turn strengthens the front end of the car. So I started on the good side. My thoughts were that since I am teaching myself as I go, if I can't make this side work, I won't be able to rebuild the other side. Step one was removing the inside wall.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/08/PICT12141-1.jpg

I am using 16ga steel again and it is thicker than the core support metal. The inside wall also was not straight which would cause problems with my plans. Since the car does not have AC right now and will not for quite some time, the bends in the wall that were there to accommodate the AC lines won't be missed.

This picture shows the new inside wall tacked in place as well as two more walls.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/08/PICT1232-1.jpg

It should be obvious what I am doing at this point, but in case it is not, this picture will make it clear.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/08/PICT1233-1.jpg

[WS6]

Here's what the completed passenger side looks like after being fully welded and ground down.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/08/HPIM0771-1.jpg

I even welded the front side which is original sheet metal but only tack welded in place.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/08/HPIM0770-1.jpg


Feeling confident about my abilities which are getting better and better especially my welding, I cut out the driver's side of the core support :)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/08/HPIM0773-1.jpg

Hind sight being 20-20, I should have point some bracing in there to keep the core support's original shape and dimensions. I took measurements before I cut so I could get things correct but braces would have been smarter.

I added braces for support after the fact but also because I decided I needed to get ride of the outside wall which I had hoped to keep. This picture shows not only the reason I ended up cutting the outside wall away but also the tabs that I welded in as locators and welding points for the new wall.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/08/HPIM0775-1.jpg

Here's the other brace put in for temporary support.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/08/HPIM0776-1.jpg

The first steps I decided were to build that new outside wall and to put the main support back in. The main support is what sits on the subframe and has the bolts and mounts go through it. The outside wall was a cinched. The main support took me hours to do. I tripled checked everything as best I could to make sure it was level and in the correct location. In the end, it's close, lol. It should work though. If not, guess I'll source one from somewhere.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/08/HPIM0777-1.jpg

After that, I started flying with the other pieces. I even forgot to take pictures I was moving so fast. So here's what the driver's side looks like almost completed. Everything is just tacked into place of course.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/08/HPIM0786-1.jpg

I have to give props to Inverter for giving me the idea to drill holes in these diagonals. He's doing it to a lot of the piece in his truck build up and I think it looks good. In my case it also allows air to pass through to the radiator. These diagonals should help strengthen the radiator opening area of the core support

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/08/HPIM0783-1.jpg

I added one to the passenger side too.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/08/HPIM0784-1.jpg

And that's it for now. I have a lot of welding and grinding left to do. I'll have more pictures soon though as I've made more progress since these pictures where taken.

Thanks

[WS6]

Forgot to add that I am not a fabricator. I am just going at it with this and teaching myself as I go. I'm using my mind and planning ahead on how I want everything to lay out. I'm totally open to suggestions if you see something wrong or that I could have done differently. I didn't do any sort of analysis on the core support and the changes I've made. I can't imagine it is not going to be stronger and help brace the front end of this car though.

[Motown 454]

Nice work it looks good..

[NOT A TA]

Looking good! It does look like it should be stiffer using thicker sheetmetal, being boxed, and having the the extra braces added. I like the boxing idea combined with the solid mounts to reduce twisting of the whole front. Are you adding metal where the body mounts are? I'm going to be switching to solid mounts from polys and prepping a different core support for my 70 and thought I'd beef up the area where the mounts are to help stiffen everything up.

[formula]

whoa, dude....you're doing fantastic work! I'm envious of your skills and bravery. Absolutely sick!

[Ralph LoGrasso]

It's coming along nicely, Trey! Keep up the good work.

[WS6]

Thanks guys. I appreciate the positive feedback.

John, I didn't add extra metal around the actual mounts. I did weld up the metal parts on the passenger side that were stock. I believe the boxing will help make the whole platform area with the holes stiffer. I'm also welding all the way around the support instead of relying on the factory pinch welds. I figure, why not since it is out.

In all honesty, I'm sure I could have just put gussets instead of an entire panel and gotten the same results. The solid sheets look better and work. I'll worry about weight one day later. In a few years when I go to build the turbo system, I hope to be able to tig aluminum and I'll make up and whole new support then. I'll have intercooler piping to worry about as well as AC lines and the different coolers. This is all just to hold me over til then.

[WS6]

not much of an update but I did have some pictures to show of the core support 95% completed.

I've got the driver's side panel welds ground down and looking pretty. All that's left for this part of the build is boxing in the lower portion under the radiator itself which is done but I don't have a picture for it yet. Also, I have to make two brackets to hold the lower rubber radiator isolators that were normally held by the fan shroud that's no longer being used and the upper radiator cover that will some how hold the twin electric fans off my Formula.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/08/PICT1254-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/08/PICT1253-1.jpg

The biggest news to me is da rims :)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/08/PICT1251-1.jpg

That's right. I got my hands on a set of staggered OEM M-parallel rims. Why would I want these you ask? Well here's some info on them. They are 18x8 and 8x9.5 front and rear. Front back spacing is 4-13/16" while rear is 6" This is pretty close to what is needed for these cars so a thick adapter is not needed. the fronts weigh 24-3/4 pounds and the backs weigh 26-1/4 pounds. Not bad for factory forged aluminum rims. Oh and I picked the set up for $600. There's some minor curb rash on the one and nicks in the clear coating but a set of 18" rims for $600. That rocks in my book. Oh and the fronts clear my Kore 3 C5/6 hybrid brake setup. I may paint these eventually but they are just getting bolted on for now.

[Twentyover]

Please tell me the copper brake lines seen in post #24 wuill be replaced w/ steel

[WS6]

They aren't copper actually. That's the coating on the steel. The shop that did my bubble flares and my SS flares had that stuff. I thought it was copper too. It's supposedly some new steel that's much easier to bend and the coating is much better. It is much easier to bend. Not copper easy to bend though

[WS6]

I lied. I do have pictures of the bottom of the core support boxed in. I just don't have pictures of the welds ground down. I got the idea to box in the core support and not just repair it from people like XV Motorsports and the project SN65.

I boxed it in using two pieces of steel instead of one for ease and because I'm running low on 16ga steel and don't want to be wasteful or buy more, lol.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/08/PICT1255-1.jpg

[NOT A TA]

Thats the way I'm considering doing the bottom of my core support. I'm hoping to use that area as an attachment point for a splitter.

[Twentyover]

They aren't copper actually. That's the coating on the steel. The shop that did my bubble flares and my SS flares had that stuff. I thought it was copper too. It's supposedly some new steel that's much easier to bend and the coating is much better. It is much easier to bend. Not copper easy to bend though


Maybe Kunifer, commonly used in the UK? An alloy of copper, nickel, and iron (Ku--> Cu--> Copper; Ni---> Nickle; fer--> Ferrous--> Iron)

[WS6]

No idea honestly Greg. I had never heard of there being a new steel for brake lines until the shop grabbed it. It was definitely easier to deal with than the steel I did use for the one section I had made out of SS but screwed up.

[gto406]

Looking really good Trey. Thanks for sharing the info on your rad saddle. I have to fix mine (the lower channel was grafted off my original saddle onto the one I picked up). Unfortunately, I didn't weld (those many years ago) and the guy I had do it, brazed them in. The welds are crappy and it still has that flimsy feel to it.

I think I might adopt some of your ideas for trying to strengthen it up.

Cheers,
~Brian.

[Takid455]

well done on the rad support. I would add a 'Z bend' or coil to the brake lines though to provide for frame flex. the lines by snap or break if too much strain is acted upon the lines. Even with mine being grafted to the body of the car, it still flexes a little. the 'G-braces' help that issue.


nice mounth of the prop valve. looks like a familiar placement.:)

[WS6]

well done on the rad support. I would add a 'Z bend' or coil to the brake lines though to provide for frame flex. the lines by snap or break if too much strain is acted upon the lines. Even with mine being grafted to the body of the car, it still flexes a little. the 'G-braces' help that issue.


nice mounth of the prop valve. looks like a familiar placement.:)

That's a good idea. I did not even take that into consideration. The front lines are not secured down really at all so they should be fine. The rear line though goes straight down and is secured almost right away. I'll see what I can do with them.

Did you put your prop valve there too? LOL I had no idea. How is your car coming along? Love the things you are doing as well.



Oh yeah, I mocked up the core support today with the fenders and all. I'll have to put a wedge under the bolt at the saddle that I rebuilt. After all that checking I still put it in wrong enough that it will screw up the alignment. Oh well, I can make it work with a wedge and other than that, everything lines up just fine. Hopefully I will have another update this weekend. Core support is done besides painting.

[WS6]

man has it been a long time since I updated. I've been working on the car steadily but haven't had time to sit down and upload pics and write this stuff out. Here's what I have to up load.

I'm done with the core support and it's all nicely painted. I used Krylon semi-gloss black. this stuff dries in 10 minutes and looks great I think.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/09/PICT1260-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/09/PICT1262-1.jpg

I've mounted the computer to the firewall. It's not the nicest way but I didn't feel like making a bracket. This will work just fine. I'm going to have to leave the power antenna in a box or sell it though. The car was optioned from the factory with a power antenna which went in the driver's front fender. I'd rather have my ECM on the firewall under where the antenna comes though. I have a severe aversion to putting the ECM at the front of the engine bay and these cars are great at wasting space. So basically unless I mounted it inside or got serious about fabbing something up, the only place to put it is on the firewall right there. This place works out great as I can hide the wiring harness as much as possible which is something I routinely do.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/09/PICT1263-1.jpg

These next pictures show how to get the transmission cross member to work with the T56. You'll need to modify the mount by cutting the metal away because the mount will not sit inside the bracket which has been flipped upside down and rewelded to the cross member itself. You'll also need to cut away that little tab off the bracket so it will fit tightly against the oddly shaped cross member. The pictures are fairly self explanatory. I set the bracket on the cross member before welding it in such a manner as to give me about 5* down in the back on the trans. I did this so I could shim the trans up and adjust the pinion angle instead of trying to weld it in the exact spot. I also didn't take any close ups of the welding I did on the cross member. I was taxing the hell out of my 110 mig. High heat sloooooow feed. Got good penetration but it's ugly. Worst part is, the neighbor had just bought a 220 mig a few weeks earlier and didn't tell me. He needed it to weld the long arm suspension brackets onto his Jeep. Doh!

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/09/PICT1265-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/09/PICT1268-1.jpg

and the cross member in place and painted. New holes were drilled in the subframe for the bolts and access. What a messy hard job. 16 holes, two of which where hole saw drilled, all drilled upside down. I was so sore when I got done. Good bits and cutting oil are a must. Just put the oil onto a cloth and wipe it onto the bit after a little drilling. This will cool the bit and help it cut as well as not sling oil everywhere or have it drain back into the drill

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/09/PICT1270-1.jpg

This is just a couple of pictures to show how close or really how far away from the firewall the engine sits. I really think I will move the engine back when I build the turbo system. We will see. Again, that's years from now.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/09/PICT1276-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/09/PICT1277-1.jpg

Remember way back when I mocked the engine up I showed how close the upper control arm was to the accessory bracket? I introduced Mr Bracket to Ms Carbide bit :O

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/09/PICT1280-1.jpg

Photo of the rims mocked up on the car. I really dig these rims. I'll eventually switch the fronts out to another pair of rears so that I have 9.5 inches of rim on each corner.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/09/PICT1283-1.jpg

This picture shows why I need to move my rims out 1/2". I just have no idea if I can. I'll have to see once I put the fenders back on where everything sits. With 1/2" spacers, my back spacing will be right about 4-5/16". Not sure if this will work on an 8in wide rim. I've got my fingers crossed that it does. I want my center caps on there.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/09/PICT1284-1.jpg

[WS6]

More goodies. First up are the fuel system components. I'm on a budget and not doing things as well as I could or would if this was a customer's car but you'll find that fuel and wiring I will not skimp on, period. Those are my cut to fit LT1 wires with 90* opti boots. I put those on today but the pics are at the shop still. Maybe next weekend I can show them off.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/09/PICT1295-1.jpg

Tires. Sumitomo HTRZ II in 245/40/18. These tires get good reviews for the most part. I need them to fit and look correct as well as allow me to go down the road. At $107 each, they fit my bill just fine. In all seriousness, I would keep an eye on Sumitomo. They have come a long way from when they started. I expect and hope that in a few years they are at the top of the list for good tires on a budget. I'm talking on par with Kuhmo Ecsta MX's and Firestone Firehawk Wide Ovals. I'd run the Wide Ovals if I could afford them. That or BFG KDW 2's? I think it's the 2's that have that wicked tread pattern as well as grip.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/09/PICT1296-1.jpg

Here they are mounted. They fit the rim perfectly IMO. I highly recommend everyone check out Tire Rack's specs section on any tires you are thinking of buying. I did that with these tires and it saved me. I wanted to run 255/40s on the front. The rim and the car can handle that. However, the 255/40s would have been a tad taller than the 275/40s I wanted to run in the rear. It would have looked dumb. These 245/40s are slightly shorter overall than the rears will be. Like I said, they fit perfectly IMO.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/09/PICT1297-1.jpg

[WS6]

OK on with the fuel system. I'm actually using the vent line that ran to the charcoal canister as the return line. The vent line is 5/16" and the factory original return line is only 1/4". I'm just using the line and not the port on the tank for fuel return so I should be fine.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/09/PICT1298-1.jpg

Here's what the fittings on the end of the fuel pump connects will look like. I didn't think I would get a good shot with the tank in the car so here it is while sitting on the floor. Everything clears and will work out just fine.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/09/PICT1299-1.jpg

I used the factory hard lines as much as possible when hooking everything up. I don't like running soft lines down the car even earl's Pro-lite 350 which I love and am using. These cars don't have a frame rail to follow or even a direct shot so I decided to adapt to the hard lines.

Here's a great idea that was mentioned to me by Doug F. Use a Corvette TPI fuel filter and just get the fittings to adapt to the 6AN hose. The LT1 and TPI cars ran with the same fuel pressure so the filter will work just fine. The flow rates between the engines isn't that great of a difference either. Besides, as Doug mentioned, the filter will support a lot to horse power too which requires lots of fuel flow. So here's my $6 fuel filter that can be easily bought at any parts store. The fittings are from Earl's

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/09/PICT1301-1.jpg

I'm mounting it right under the number 2 subframe mount. It will be hidden but easily accessible here.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/09/PICT1302-1.jpg

Now for some comedic relief. This is why you should always read directions. The PC police have not won their stupid little war. People with senses of humor still exist. read step number 6 carefully. I laughed

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/09/PICT1306-1.jpg

Here's how the driver's fuel line will reach the engine from the hard line. That plastic loop that's right below the wiper motor I believe originally held the wiring harness. I thought it would be better for it to hold the fuel line.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/09/PICT1309-1.jpg

And connected to the fuel rail now.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/09/PICT1310-1.jpg

As you can see, I'm running the return line down the passenger side. This is how the factory did it with the 403. I'm not sure but I believe all the late 2nd gens were this way regardless of engine choice or fuel pump location. Feed on the driver's side and return down the passenger side.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/09/PICT1317-1.jpg

[WS6]

I liked the plastic loop on the driver's side so much that I added one to the passenger side. It was almost necessary as the exhaust manifold sits further back and closer to the firewall on the passenger side and I certainly don't want the return hose to get melted or rupture.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/09/PICT1316-1.jpg

And here it is clamped to the side of the frame rail on the passenger side. I used some generic conduit clamps. Not he prettiest but they work great and I had them. There's enough flew between the connection at the frame rail to the hard line to not be an issue.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/09/PICT1315-1.jpg

Voila! gratuitous outside shots of the engine and trans sitting in the car with the car on all four wheels again. I'm further along than this like I said. I'm well into the wiring for the engine and that's very time consuming for me to do since I'm so anal about it. I'll update again when I can. Thanks for looking.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/09/PICT1320-1.jpg

[TPI Monte SS]

Awesome job Trey, I'm impressed!!! Can't wait to see the next updates!

[WS6]

ok so I thought I'd spend my Friday trying to get this caught up instead of doing homework. Sounds good to me!

Anyway, here are some random wiring pictures. I decided to modify the factory harness which means everything on the passenger side has to be lengthened due to the fact that the PCM now sits on the other side of the car from where it did in my 96. I think this is the last time I modify a harness to work. From now on, I'll build them from scratch. I have all the tools, connectors, and pins needed. Oh and I have a few miles of wire in all sorts of colors. This has taken me much longer than I thought it would but it takes time to make it look right and build it for the car and not just for the engine. I still need to get the fuse panel inside the car mounted and wired as well as get the MAF, IAT, and fans wired up. I need the driver's inner fender on for that though. So it may be a little while yet unfortunately. I've also only just begun on the battery relocation too.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/09/PICT1378-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/09/PICT1379-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/09/PICT1385-1.jpg

For relocating the battery, I'm running a 2ga and 6ga wire from the rear. The 2ga is for the starter only and the 6ga is to power the car and recharge the battery. The 6ga is overkill but I'd rather go big than small. I'm also going overboard on circuit breakers and fuses too I bet. Again, better safe than sorry. I'm running the wires through the car instead of under. I see no reason to go under the car. The battery is in the trunk, the wires are better protected inside the car, and if you've ever seen the bottom side of a 2nd gen, you know there is no straight forward path to take from front to back. So inside the car it goes. Unfortunately, I'm finding more and more rust than I thought the car had. The car is plenty solid still but I think this one will be the track car. I'll build something else for cruising and looking pretty. I've got this mean itch to build a Ventura slammed to the ground and looking a lot like Notorious by Rad Rides. Anyway, pictures of big wires

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/09/PICT1394-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/09/PICT1395-1.jpg

I've got my MSD wires on now too. I order the cut to length ones with 90* opti boots. I wanted to run my wires in such a manner that they don't get burnt or hang all over the place. I also wanted to go behind the accessory bracket on the passenger side instead of in front. So here's what my plug wires look like. The 90* opti boots are tight on the passenger side but they fit if you're careful with the bottom two.

Almost forgot a warning. If you are poor like me and run manifolds on your LT1, you must put the factory heat shields over the 5,7, and 8 plug boots. They will get damaged from heat rather quickly if you don't. You can see the two on my driver's side. I need to go get another off the LT1 I have in storage for the number 8 plug. They fit nice and tightly over the MSD boots.


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/09/PICT1383-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/09/PICT1381-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/09/PICT1384-1.jpg

What's this?! Front clip parts back on the car? Why, yes it is. I can't put the driver's side stuff on yet because I have a hole I need to drill first. I can't drill the hole just yet either because not all of the wires are ran yet. Soon though I hope.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/09/PICT1411-1.jpg


Please no kissing the screen with this picture. LOL whatever! So as the car comes together more and more, I am really really liking the rims. I need to wait to the whole weight of the car is on the suspension before I make changes but it looks as if I can move the front wheels out 1/2". If I can get 3/4" which I think is highly doubtful, that would allow me to run adapters and that would be just swell. Like the swell in my pants as I look at this picture

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/09/PICT1413-1.jpg

[WS6]

Here's a teaser shop of what's to come. Just as soon as Ed Miller gets around to getting me a bracket set with cables and hoses, I'll be good to go here too. :) He's a busy man I know. I'm patient too.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/09/PICT1414-1.jpg

I know the update was short but oh well. I'm getting up at 5 tomorrow morning so I can get into the shop and make some headway. I'll try to get another update done soon too. I have more pictures of the almost completed wiring harness. It'll be a while yet before I wrap it but the wires are ran and you can see how that's been done. Til then

[srh3trinity]

The car is shaping up nicely. The BMW wheels look a lot like the split 5 spoke Fikse wheel. Nice to know that the backspacing is close.

[67goatman455]

wow, those rims.......fap fap fap. i sure wish i knew about the 90* opti boots. thats awesome! keep it up!

[69projectKAOS]

whats the bolt pattern on those rims?? would they fit on a 69 camaro 5x4.75? because i seen a set of those in a special interest paper here where i live and they would look sweet on my car in black thanks-dom

[WS6]

they are 5x120mm. They will fit on a 4.75in pattern but it's not 100%. That's part of the reason I am hoping to get adapters in there and not just spacers.

[69projectKAOS]

other than spacers, why dont they fit 100%? did u have to oblong the holes? because i found a decent set that i dont want to pass up on if they can work. thanks for the help-dom

[John Wright]

Hey Trey,
What is all that green tape on the wiring?....LOL
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
..

.
..

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/10/DSC02390-1.jpg

At least your tape is colorful, mine was ole shipping labels.

[WS6]

lol, yep. The surveying tape works great for making tags. I do this on cars I am working on that I may not be 100% familiar with.

Dom, it's the metric pattern compared to the SAE pattern. It's very close. You can put the wheel right on and torque it down as is. You just have to be careful that the lugs stay tight. Some people use loctite. The only other issue is making sure the center cap fits on the rim and getting hub centric spacers if you run spacers or adapters. Always choose adapters if you can. The thinnest I have found is 3/4" though which is why I may run spacers.

[69projectKAOS]

ohh ok, now i understand lol, i am going to look at the set of wheels this weekend and hopefully they are in decent shape, i appreciate the help again.. thanks-dom

[WS6]

wow! Has it really been four months since I made an update? Damn! I knew I had been slack about posting an update over xmas break. I just didn't realize October was the last time I updated. Anyway, on with the update. I've been working on the car since I last updated but it has been slow. School just got very busy and this semester is just as bad. I'll do my best though.

Wiring is basically done. I need to check everything once my fuel pump arrives but other than that, I have a short section I need to do for the MAF and IAC once those are mounted. I prefer wrap to convoluted tubing. The wrap is what GM used back in the 60s and 70s. It looks so much cleaner to me.

Here's the engine wiring and what I did for vacuum line connection to the booster.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/01/PICT1498-1.jpg


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/01/PICT1499-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/01/PICT1502-1.jpg



Here's were the wires go into the inside the car to the fuse panel and ignition. The two red wires will plug into what is left of the factory harness and prove power to the car itself. This includes all lighting, windows, controls, etc etc.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/01/PICT1497-1.jpg

This is my throttle cable. It's made by Lokar. It doesn't look it but there is plenty of slack in there to allow for flexing and engine movement. I had to drill the hole in my throttle body cable bracket to accept the thing on the end of the Lokar cable whose name is escaping me at the moment that actually allows the cable to operate the throttle body. I'll also have to figure out what to do about getting the scoop to clear this. I think there will be plenty of room but I won't know until I get the hood on. The stainless steel cable bracket that is holding the cable to the intake is a part I made for my business that allows people to run a Lokar cable on their LSx motors when doing a swap like this. Turns out it works just fine on my LT1 too, lol. I don't mind as I like it of course.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/01/PICT1503-1.jpg

[WS6]

On the water pump I took the heater hose that was pointing straight up and rotated it to just below horizontal facing the front. I thought it would look better to have the heater hoses running to the front of the engine together.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/01/PICT14181-1.jpg

Here you can see the lower radiator hose I ended up using. Part number is L1000 from autozone. It's not perfect but I think it'll work for me. As you can see here, the heater hoses look good and tucked in tightly to the engine.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/01/PICT0064-1.jpg

Something that you guys doing LT1 swap must remember is to add this bleeder valve. The Fbody had two valves because the heater hoses in a 4th gen went higher than the radiator and engine. In order to bleed the heater system, this valve was put in place. On a C4 vette, the reservoir was the highest point so only the bleeder at the thermostat housing was needed. Now on these 2nd gens, I'm betting that the small 5/8" hose is the feed and not the return. That means this bleeder may only work so so. I'll find out soon enough. I wanted it there all the same because it will help. If you don't do this, you may have issues with the coolant temp as you must bleed the coolant system on an LT1 for it to function properly.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/01/PICT0065-1.jpg

Here's the upper radiator hose and steam port line. I routed the steam port line under the throttle body and under the upper hose to the radiator. I wanted to hide this as much as possible. That's Earl's Pro-lite 350 hose that I used for the steam line. The radiator hose is the upper hose off my 96 formula. Just go to autozone or the like and get the upper radiator hose for a 96 fbody with the V8 engine and they will hand you that. Oh and in case I missed it earlier, that's my radiator cover i made. I just used some .090 aluminum along with the radiator isolators to hold it in place. It holds the fans in place too.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/01/PICT0035-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/01/PICT0036-1.jpg

Since I am not running AC at the time I needed to delete the pulley. This is a Dorman part number 34209. I had to drill out the mount holes as they had them threaded for some reason. I also had to add a washer behind the pulley to space it out. Pretty lame but it was half the cost of a GM delete pulley so I'll take my chances for now.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/01/PICT0037-1.jpg

[WS6]

On to some more electrical. I built a box to hold my red top. It's nothing fancy but it works and it didn't cost me anything which is good considering the cost of that damn battery
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/01/PICT0044-1.jpg


This is the back side with my fuel pump relay and circuit breaker. My main circuit breaker for the alternator, and the starting relay. The main circuit breaker is 105amps. If it is not enough, I have another one I can put in its place. The test function(red button) can work as a kill switch for the entire car. If it's open, the car is completely dead. 100% nothing. Considering it is tucked behind the box which sits off to the side of a small truck and is covered by wires, I think it'll function well as a kill switch.

Some good eyes my notice that the starter relay is actually the wrong kind. Oooops. It's been switched out. Just go to autozone and ask for one from a V8 mustang 1970 model or so.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/01/PICT0042-1.jpg

Here's the box in the trunk with all the wires hooked to it ready to tuck into the corner and bolt down. I have four 3/8" grade eight bolts going through the box and into the frame rail flange holding this box in. It's not going anywhere.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/01/PICT0045-1.jpg


And what it looks like tucked in and bolted down. Nice and out of the way for the most part.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/01/PICT0047-1.jpg

Remember those wires I had running through the fire wall into the car? here they are from the inside of the firewall. Just below the factory fuse panel. Admittedly they are a little in the way but everything is tucked away cleaning and nicely.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/01/PICT0053-1.jpg

Here's where they terminate. I have the fuse panel on the left and the ALD on the right. The lower dash panel fits and covers these two items up nicely. I can easily get at them with a simple coin if need be.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/01/PICT0052-1.jpg

In the back of the car I had to go from the battery box which had the fuel ump relay mounted on the back to the outside of the car to the fuel pump. I went through the same place as the tail lights go through. I drilled another hole in the grommet and fed the fuel pump wires through the hole and put a connector on the outside just behind the tail light.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/01/PICT0060-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/01/PICT0058-1.jpg

[WS6]

And a few odds and ends to finish this update. the center console fits and the shifter clears barely. I won't be able to run any sort of boot with it like this but whatever. I'll get to it eventually. For now I'll have an arm rest and place to mount my window switch

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/01/PICT0050-1.jpg

Because I moved the gas pedal over to towards the brake pedal, the panel right behind the pedals needed trimming. here it is all nicely trimmed. Looks almost normal doesn't it?

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/01/PICT0054-1.jpg

I've mounted my 96 formula's charcoal canister on a simple strip of metal right behind the gas tank. It's out of the way of everything in this location. Not sure if it will work for me or not like this but it's worth a try

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/01/PICT0049-1.jpg

Something that always nagged me about my car was my nose was warped. If discovered it's because of the support not fitting against the bumper correctly. I corrected that I hope. I used a hole drill and sent some tek screws through the bumper to better hold this foam support up. I'll see if it helps any. I may have to replace the foam support eventually.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/01/PICT0055-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/01/PICT0057-1.jpg

At the other end of the car was the gas door. It always hung down and made the tail light look dumb. So I decided I wanted that fixed. I couldn't believe how crappy of a design it was. They used two long roll pins to hold a spring back and act as a pivot. They were both early worn through. I decided to fix this again for cheap with two #8 screws and one long #10. I had to drill the holes out for the #10 screw just a little bit. The #8s fit right through the holes. I used teflon lock nuts and tightened everything up just enough to remove slop. Sprayed some white lithium grease into the ares and voila, it works great. As you can see, the screws and hing area is well hidden so I don;t have to worry about people saying how bad it looks. The door stays closed 99% of the time anyway so what do I care. Now it looks correct and doesn't look like it's half way falling down even if I can't hold the camera level. Now to find a way to make it light up at night hmmmmmmm......

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/01/PICT0176-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/01/PICT0177-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/01/PICT0178-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/01/PICT0181-1.jpg

Ok that's it for now. I have some I will try to do in another day or so. Thanks for looking

[T_Raven]

Just saw this for the first time. I always like to see what people can do with a low budget and a lot of creativity.

I like the wheels. I like split 5 spoke designs but I've never seen those. They look great on the car.

[67rstbkt]

I just read through this whole thread; Nice progress, keep up the good work :git:

[Dalamar]

Great work! Love all the progress pictures.

Before I had a mustang, I had a 72 Firebird.

[John Wright]

Trey,
Shifter can be located back into the center of your console fairly easy.

something like this will work, and not effect the throw.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

[WS6]

Thanks guys. I may have to try that John. So far its location isn't bad. Move it back a couple inches and it should be better. Guess I could use that as an excuse to move the engine back :)

[John Wright]

I've got that goofy, offset to the side, Viper shifter on my T56 to contend with.

[67rstbkt]

I've got that goofy, offset to the side, Viper shifter on my T56 to contend with.


Me too, what are you going to do about it?

[John Wright]

Me too, what are you going to do about it?Trey, please pardon the thread derail.
I'm going to look into the aftermarket options for a different shifter. No sure yet how that will play out. I believe the aftermarket shifter will just bolt in place of the stock Viper shifter. The top plate seems to just unbolt and the shifter has a ball/socket configuration on the end. /derail off

[67rstbkt]

Trey, please pardon the thread derail.
I'm going to look into the aftermarket options for a different shifter. No sure yet how that will play out. I believe the aftermarket shifter will just bolt in place of the stock Viper shifter. The top plate seems to just unbolt and the shifter has a ball/socket configuration on the end. /derail off

Thanks for the info.
Sorry for the thread-jack Trey, next time I'll send a PM.

[WS6]

No worries guys. I've done my thread in such a manner as to be a lesson on this particular swap. There are a lot of different things that also come up and could certainly help someone out.

[WS6]

ok more pictures and details

Here's a bracket I made up to hold the power steering reservoir. I just laid it out on 3/16" steel and bent it up and welded it together. Should work out just fine.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/PICT0066-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/PICT0067-1.jpg

I picked up a reservoir for a 97+ v6 fbody off Ebay. C4 Corvettes have a similar style that may be usable also.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/PICT0068-1.jpg

There should be plenty of room between the hoses and the upper control arm but I'll need to double check once I get the power steering plumbed in.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/PICT0069-1.jpg

Next up is a close out panel for the air intake for the engine. I decided to make it out of fiberglass instead of metal. I didn't want to take the time to setup a vacuum bag system and I really didn't want to do a whole bunch of sanding and leveling to get the panel to look right. So I placed a lot of weight on the fiberglass while sandwiching it between two 3/4" panels wrapped in plastic :)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/PICT0136-1.jpg

I put two batteries, a 6x6, a home made caster, and a snow flake rim and tire on top for weight. Easily 80 lbs of stuff.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/PICT0138-1.jpg

Here's how it looked once cured and ready for finishing

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/PICT0140-1.jpg

I still had to do some sanding and leveling with bondo and filler but nothing terrible. Shaping the contours was a pain but well worth it. Here it is primed and ready for painting.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/PICT0148-1.jpg

I forgot to mention that I made a template out of cardboard first. I placed that under one of the layers of plastic so that the fiberglass would form to it. That worked ok. I probably could have just made it flat and them traced the template onto the fiberglass and sanded it from there.

Here is a quick shot of how I will be routing the intake tube. I thought I had more pictures but this is it for this time.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/PICT0149-1.jpg

I'll get some more this weekend and hopefully get them uploaded soon. I have the intake tube done and painted as well as the close out panel. I need to wire in the IAT and that's it under the hood. Out back I'm still waiting for the fuel pump. It should be in by now but until I get there on Saturday, I won't know for sure.

I'm close to test firing the car. The fuel pump is the last thing. I've measured for my driveshaft and confirmed that the TH350 slip yoke fits the T56 as well. So no combination Ujoint for me, woot! Power steering is next on the list. Exhaust is done and I need to get pictures. So I'm close. Rear brakes are still needed as are adapters for the rims. Hopefully by my 30th birthday I'll have it rolling on its own again. That gives me til the end of April.

Thanks for looking.

[srh3trinity]

Nice progress, the closeout is going to look trick. Keep us posted.

[WS6]

so my fuel pump finally showed up. I ordered a Racetronix setup from Thunder Racing before the beginning of the year. They had a computer system failure shortly there after and it took a while to figure out what happened to my order. It would show as being shipped with a tracking number and everything but there wasn't anything there. It was finally figured out and everything was straightened out and I got my fuel pump. Crap happens and it wasn't their fault. I just got set back a wee bit. The Racetronix setup uses a Wablro 255 lph pump and comes with a new pump filter, connecting harness since the pump uses a different harness, and that no kink GM tube. Those were the reasons I got the racetronix unit. Oh and it dropped right in with no problems. Everything that came from them is on the left and the factory unit is on the right.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/PICT0192-1.jpg

Got everything put back together and glued the bucket shut. It's ready to put back into the tank now.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/PICT0193-1.jpg

I got the tank up into the car and wired in now too. I checked the circuitry and it works as necessary.

Here's the exhaust system all welded up. Yes, I did use that many sections. I decided I did not want to deal with getting the car to a muffler shop for them to do it for me. I'll never weld overhead again unless I have a stronger welder though. I have too many burn scars on my arms. I'm still proud of how well it all went together. I used a factory C6 Corvette H pipe and purchased a 45* and 90* bend from the parts stores. The C6 pipes are 2.5" from the factory. It was a take off unit from one of my customers and I decided to use it instead of scrap it. The bends that were on that system I was able to use rather well on my car. I wasn't about to ground the welds down on the pipes.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/PICT0201-1.jpg

Here's the intake I fabbed up and the close out panel completed. I still need to put the hose clamps on the couplers but I have those with me now so I can do that tomorrow. I got the couplers from www.siliconecouplers.com. They are really nice pieces and their prices were cheaper than Ebay. Shipping was fast as well. I paid $10 for each coupler. I used scrap metal for the intake tube also. Guess what i used ? :) C6 Z06 H pipe that I cut up, lol. C6 Z06s come with 3" exhaust from the factory. I had another take off one that I didn't scrap so I used it. The first bend out of the throttle body was a piece of ss pipe I had for something else. I really don't see how everyone is able to piece together and intake and have it look solid after welding. If you can do that, you're a much better fabricator than I. It would have been nice if I could have done that here but I just didn't care enough honestly. It's sealed up and will work well at bringing in air to the engine. I put the IAT sensor on the bottom of the pipe over by the MAF if anyone wonders where it is at.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/PICT0195-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/PICT0194-1.jpg


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/PICT0196-1.jpg

Here's the filter sticking into the fender. It will pull in fresh air from around the headlights and that whole open area just like factory did. Only I think this looks a lot better.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/PICT0197-1.jpg

Well, that's it for this time. I should test fire the car tomorrow. Everything is wired and has been checked and all is good. I just need to put some gas in the tank, prime the system, and cross my fingers that my injectors aren't gummed up. It's been one week shy of a year since I totaled the formula. The engine has run since then. I drained the fuel rail but I'm still worried about the injectors. I'll find out tomorrow.

Thanks

[WS6]

I got it running! For about 2 seconds at a time anyway, lol. I have a factory tune in my PCM and forgot I needed to disable VATS and what not still. So I brought my laptop home and will play with tuner CAT this week I hope. Sounded pretty good though. I have something rubbing in the flywheel area I need to check out. Nothing major just makes a noise.

[CruizinKev]

congrats! nice work! :)

[WS6]

Just a quick update. No pictures this time. The driveshaft is done, the engine runs, and all panels except for the hood are back on the car. I have steel lines and the mastercool flaring tool so I'll be making my own power steering lines. I'm waiting on rear brake brackets still. So there's not much left til it moves on its own. Hopefully sooner than later. School and life are taking up my time though.

[19,69camaro]

Looks great man keep up the good work

[Runningriot]

This is some awesome work! What do you go to school for?

[srh3trinity]

We will be pulling for you down the home stretch and keep us posted with pics. I am going to be doing the same thing except with an LS swap and your build has been a great inspiration.

[WS6]

Thanks everyone.

I'm in school for mech engineering. I'm trying to get into the oil industry and move to Grand Junction, Colorado. At least that's the plan. We will see if it works out or not. I need to get the car mobile before then so I can put it somewhere easily.

[Runningriot]

Thanks everyone.

I'm in school for mech engineering. I'm trying to get into the oil industry and move to Grand Junction, Colorado. At least that's the plan. We will see if it works out or not. I need to get the car mobile before then so I can put it somewhere easily.

Hey thats what I'm in school for too! Once again, great work!

[TPI Monte SS]

Glad to see your updates Trey, it's looking great!!! Now we need video as well. :)

[WS6]

haha I'll try but I am honestly am not sure I will have time to finish the car before I move. So much is up in the air. I just know I have to finish this last month of school and cross my fingers that the oil service company I am interviewing with hires me. I have no clue when I would have to start. I just know the car is important but this other stuff is more important.

Thanks

[WS6]

Well I finished the car as far as it is going to go a while back. I've just been so busy getting ready to move to Colorado that I haven't had time to update. This update isn't going to be as good as my others unfortunately. Please ask any questions you have though and I'll answer them as I can.

I don't have a tag, insurance, or a alignment so I've only driven it through the neighborhood. I still had fun though. The car will be like this for a while. I honestly have no idea when I'll be able to bring it to Colorado or get any more work done to it.

The gauges are New Vintage USA gauges

I used 3/4" adapters on all four corners to get the wheels on correctly. There is plenty of clearance with these adapters you just can't go too low or else the front will rub the outer lip area where the inner fender mounts tot he outer and you might have to roll the rear lips.

Hopefully that answered some questions.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/06/PICT0306-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/06/PICT0309-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/06/PICT0310-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/06/PICT0312-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/06/PICT0314-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/06/PICT0318-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/06/PICT0319-1.jpg

[WS6]

I also just noticed from these pictures that the suspension has settled since I took these pictures. I have a little over two fingers of clearance between the body and tires front and rear. It looks good :)

[srh3trinity]

Looks great. I am going to buy a 74 Bird tomorrow so I may be in touch about the wheel adapters. I have found several sets of BMW wheels that are reasonable that will need adapters. I think the older second gen 'birds have a little more room for tires in the wheelhouses. I can look back through the whole thread, but what did you do in the way of suspension mods?

[John Wright]

Looks good Trey. ....have some fun with it now.

[cdoggy81]

Trey, great job!

[WS6]

suspension was built a while ago. It's really just new bushings, Koni Classic shocks, raise the front leaf spring eyelet, and cut the front springs.

[T_Raven]

Looks good, those wheels look even better than I expected they would.

[Mr.VENGEANCE]

whoa.. talk about wheels that suit the car that... shouldnt!

[WS6]

I'm really happy with the wheels. I may try and get another pair of rears which are 9.5s for the front. It won't happen anytime soon but we will see when I get there what I do. I may try and change the color of the rims also. Just not sure but I'm happy at this point.

[srh3trinity]

Just curious Trey, but did you look at the 4th gen tank compared to the 2nd gen tank. I was wondering if you could do a tank swap. I realize the 4th gen tanks have the filler neck that connects to the drivers quarter, but I will be doing an LSx swap into a second gen and I was thinking about a billet filler on the quarter and having the tank straight out of an LS1 car would make for a nice swap. I have neither seen either tank out of the car nor can I remember what my 4th gen tank looked like when I had one, so I may be way off base here. Let me know since you have laid eyes on both during this project.

[WS6]

I never considered it since my 2nd gen tank was in good condition. I'm honestly not sure if the tanks would swap. The LS1 tanks after 98 were plastic. My 96's tank was metal. What you may want to look into doing is swapping in the LS1 fuel pump assembly to your 2nd gen tank. That's what I would do if I had an LS1 tank to start with.

[srh3trinity]

Thanks, just curious if there was an easy solution. My guess is they are too different to use or you would see more people using the LS1 tanks with swaps.

[cdoggy81]

My tank in the Trans Am was in good shape so I was going to order one of these from Tanks Inc. for $225 & stick it in. You could always just get a new Spectra EFI tank from Rock Auto as well for $450 & just be done with it (which is what I did) Just a few options for you :)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2007/03/prd_sm_84-1.jpg

[srh3trinity]

Those are nice options too. The swap will be down the road, but the tank options have been on my mind as I slowly assemble parts.

[WS6]

Good idea on the Spectre tank. I had forgotten the early 2nd gen cars had that as an option as well. Still not much love for the late 2nd gens in the market place yet.

[formula]

got dang those m-pars look great on there--are you still around athens, or have you already moved? If you're still in GA you oughta sneak out to PSMC this weekend,just to show the ol' girl off...

[WS6]

Thanks Wes. I leave friday morning for Colorado unfortunately so yet again I will miss the PSMC.

[srh3trinity]

Trey,
What master cylinder and booster did you use. I need to go all the way back through this thread and will likely do just that when I start getting my hands dirty on my car. Also, when you have the car out again, try and get some good shots of how the tires look from the back. I have stumbled across some 9.5 inch wide wheels that I really like and I am wanting to know how a 275 would look. In the pics that you have already posted, the width of the tire gets lost in the shadows.

(edit) I found that you used your LT1 master, follow up question, you have had the car on the road for limited runs, so how is the pedal feel with this particular master?

[WS6]

Well, I'm in Colorado now and the car is back in Georgia so pictures will be a problem. I drove the car a few times before leaving and the pedal felt fine. Travel was not much at all to actually stop the car but i was only stopping from ~30-35mph. I did a couple brake checks from a little higher and the brakes work very well. Still haven't adjusted the prop valve so I am sure there is more tuning to be had with the brakes.

if you run this MC, make sure you get the line nuts with it because they aren't easy to find typically.

[srh3trinity]

Just reading through the thread again, this is going to be a good reference for me. Hurry up and get the car to Colorado and enjoy your hard work.

[WS6]

Good I am really glad it will help you out. That was my whole reason for showing this build in such detail especially with the engine and trans even if they aren't common.

It's looking like I will have to buy a house before I can bring it out here. So maybe 1 year. There are a lot of foreclosures and short sales in this area. I'm making enough and living so far below my means that I'll be able to save quickly. Most houses have two car garages and they aren't two barely fitting into the place garages.

[PonchoJohn]

Trey-
Beautiful job on your car! The wheels look fantastic on there! I never thought I'd say this, but nice job on the <non-Pontiac> engine (okay, that's enough... I gotta shower after that comment)- the reuse of parts was very creative and resourceful. I like how you packaged the computer and wiring- very neat job!
I'm showing my nine year old some of the pics to help him visualize what's after the "take it apart, clean it, clean it some more" stage. He's very excited to see your car "finished."
A couple of random thoughts:
1) When I "built" my 88 T/A's engine (back in early 1993), I had a place called B&B Performance (So Cal) make me some custom valve covers for the "new" centerbolt heads- that might be a really nice touch for such a fine install/display of craftsmanship.
2) It seems that the Impala SS/ Caprice/ Roadmaster cars had a plastic gas tank that will bolt right in to a second gen. I 'think' I read an install piece on it on this forum. I suppose it's a little late for that now, but it may help other folks.
3) Did I tell you how nice your car looks?
4) Any issues w/ the core support (lining it up, tightening the hardware, etc)?
Thanks!

[zamora7]

So you didn't use the pedals from your 96 formula. I'm doing a similar swap(LS1/T56) and I was going to attempt adapting the pedal assembly to the car. But I was wondering if I can take just the clutch pedal out and adapt it to the firewall along with the MC from the 2000 WS6 I got it from.

[WS6]

thank you for the kind words John. Eventually i may do something with the valve covers as the stock stamped steel ones aren't the nicest you're right. The core support lined up well enough. The driver's side was not perfect and was actually out a little bit. i was able to get it all lined up and then bolted down. I'll do a better job next time but for now it works.

[WS6]

So you didn't use the pedals from your 96 formula. I'm doing a similar swap(LS1/T56) and I was going to attempt adapting the pedal assembly to the car. But I was wondering if I can take just the clutch pedal out and adapt it to the firewall along with the MC from the 2000 WS6 I got it from.

correct. you need to get factory four speed pedals which is a clutch and brake pedal. i show how to do it back on some of the earlier pages.

[RicerwannaB]

Great build, Looks good!

[WS6]

Thank you. I was surprised to see my thread brought back to life. Nothing's changed with the car. It's still in GA and I'm in TX now. I did drive it last week for all of 3 minutes. I had to go back to GA unexpectedly so I figured I might as well drive it while I'm there.

[019hotrod]

Nicely Done! Thanks for the good reading.

[WS6]

Thanks! One day I'll get back on it and get it road worthy so I can drive and enjoy the car.

[Chadman27]

Made my way to your build thread from your post on mine... HOW DID I MISS THIS?! Nice work, and to be to honest, I really like the green motor, lol.... I got a badass Grave Digger vibe off it! :twothumbs

[WS6]

Thanks. I have no idea what happened to the motor. I hope and believe the guy who bought it rebuilt it with his sons as he had planned. It might be sitting in another bird running around the ATL area for all I know now. I'm sure it's no longer green though

[GreatWhiteTrans-Am]

Where did you find your wheels? Did they fit fine without and modifications?

[WS6]

I just put a want ad on Craigslist and someone with them replied. I detailed what was necessary to make them fit in the thread. I just used adapters to convert from the metric to standard bolt pattern. 3/4" I believe was the thickness of the adapters. It's a fairly straight forward deal to make the wheels fit properly. Thanks

[duffinatur]

Trey,
I found your thread and am just starting a build on a similar car: 79 TA with an LS1 swap (from a 99 TA). Thanks for posting this, it's very helpful.
Duff

[dpruden]

Trey-
1. Badass build done on a reasonable budget
2. Who do you work for? I am in oil as well and was just wondering.
3. Awesome idea on the BMW wheels, way to be different.

[WS6]

Glad you found it helpful, Duff. That's what I intended with this thread more than anything else.

Thanks, dpruden. I'm a casedhole wireline engineer with Halliburton. Thanks for the compliments on the wheels. I can't take credit though. I got the idea off NastyZ28.com. I saw a few guys there with these rims on their camaros and thought they looked great. I figured they should look good on the TA too.

I hope one of these days soon I can actually start working on the car again. Especially, now that I don't have such a strict budget.

[Tpichevy]

What did you use for center caps on these wheels?

[WS6]

I used the BMW center caps. I painted them silver. The front ones I had to remove some of the webbing on the backside so they would fit. They barely clear the bearing caps. I suggest gluing them in as well. I recently lost one of the rear one.

Thanks