GM A-body Front Control Arms...

[mrgto]

What's the popular choice now a days.

There are what, 4-5 options?
BMR, Hotchkis, Fat Man, Global West, and then Air Ride(out of my price range.

I've been leaning towards the BMR or GW...any other options? I need to get this frame done this summer so I'm missing those and then I can paint it and get it on the jack stands at least.

Thanks.

[derekf]

The SMC arms seem to be very popular, but the answer really probably depends on what you're doing with the rest of the front suspension.

[mrgto]

The SMC arms seem to be very popular, but the answer really probably depends on what you're doing with the rest of the front suspension.


QA1 coilovers.....R&P Steering if there is one avaliable...otherwise just a quicker steering box. 17 or 18" Oasis rims and some 13" brakes.

[derekf]

Sorry, the name of the company I mentioned was SPC, not SMC.

Are you looking at tubular control arms for functionality or for looks? Unless the QA1s require a "coilover" lower, if you're staying with the stock spindles I don't think there's much gain to the aftermarket control arms.

Do yourself a favor - call Marcus at SC&C, he knows a lot about this stuff and can set you on the right path.

[mrgto]

Weight reduction and strength. Probably will be going with stock spindles.

[Roadbuster]

Weight reduction and strength. Probably will be going with stock spindles.
For an A-body the problem with the front suspension is the spindles. Changing LCAs won't fix the geometry. X2 on calling Marcus at SC&C!
Jon

[stealth71]

scandc.com

I'm running the stage II kit w/ tall ball joints. Adjustable upper and stock lower. Best bang for the buck.

[BobB66SS]

DSE has all new A-body parts too.

[killer69]

DSE has all new A-body parts too.
Same here

[1nkred1ble]

i have a 70 chevelle, and every time i go to scandc.com i give myself a headache trying to understand their packages, how much is it for a stage 2 kit vs a stage one? and what does it come with?

[wmhjr]

i have a 70 chevelle, and every time i go to scandc.com i give myself a headache trying to understand their packages, how much is it for a stage 2 kit vs a stage one? and what does it come with?

That's why there's a phone number. Do yourself a favor and call Marcus. You'll end up learning a little about how the components work together.

[jilge71]

i called marcus and he explained everything to me. he is very easy to talk to. i just ordered my rear coilover kit with adj swaybar and front stage 2 plus kit and he matched everything together so the overall would be the best bang for the buck

[Hotchkis]

If you're looking for a dialed in complete turn-key package (http://www.hotchkis.net/search.html?Make=7&Model=1072&SubmitForm=Search), our A-Body tubular A-arms are extremely strong, lightweight, and designed for bolt-on installation. Your best bet would be to upgrade to a B-Body or F-Body tall spindle with a geometry corrected arm (http://www.hotchkis.net/gm_abody_tubular_lower_aarms_wballjoint_for_b_or_f _body_spindle.html) for superior handling.

However even the stock spindle with tubular arms works pretty well. Here's a new video we just shot at the track testing a customer's '71 with our complete TVS package and tubular upper/lower a-arms, including doing some slalom runs on an uneven asphalt surface so you can see the suspension articulation.

Chevelle Slalom Video (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pJM57HTenAo)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/05/IMG_0134-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/05/IMG_0103-1.jpg

[ProTouring442]

If you're looking for a dialed in complete turn-key package (http://www.hotchkis.net/search.html?Make=7&Model=1072&SubmitForm=Search), our A-Body tubular A-arms are extremely strong, lightweight, and designed for bolt-on installation. Your best bet would be to upgrade to a B-Body or F-Body tall spindle with a geometry corrected arm (http://www.hotchkis.net/gm_abody_tubular_lower_aarms_wballjoint_for_b_or_f _body_spindle.html) for superior handling.

However even the stock spindle with tubular arms works pretty well. Here's a new video we just shot at the track testing a customer's '71 with our complete TVS package and tubular upper/lower a-arms, including doing some slalom runs on an uneven asphalt surface so you can see the suspension articulation.

What about the problems with bump-steer and lack of turning radius associated with the B-body swap?

Shiny Side Up!
Bill

[Hotchkis]

No problem. There are now several options available for completely aftermarket “Tall Spindles” that can take advantage of the Geometry corrected tubular upper arms and overcome any negative effects such as bump steer.

[1nkred1ble]

wow!

[1nkred1ble]

nice chevelle

[BMR Tech]

We have various options as well from an OE replacement tubular upper and lower with additional positive caster to a modified upper for use with tall spindles. Both sets reduce unsprung weight by 10 pounds and both versions of the uppers have double-offset billet cross shafts to reduce the amount of shims required for lowered cars. Additionally, either set can be purchased for under $900.

[silver69camaro]

That video really shows how much it can pay off to stretch the tire over a wider rim - sidewall deflection is significantly reduced. Very cool!

[Hotchkis]

Thanks Matt. That was a customer car that happened to be available on one of our testing days. He's a regular family man that took 8 years to build his dream car, a little at a time. Nice guy with a lot of pride in his ride.

[Marcus SC&C]

Your best bet would be to upgrade to a B-Body or F-Body tall spindle with a geometry corrected arm (http://www.hotchkis.net/gm_abody_tubular_lower_aarms_wballjoint_for_b_or_f _body_spindle.html) for superior handling.


So, the "best bet" is the antiquated B-body/F-body tall spindles? Oh, unless you want a reasonable turning radius, proper steering ackerman, proper steering ratio and less than staggering bumpsteer. Then folks should use some kind of aftermarket tall spindles (which vary wildly), which you specifically designed your arms for, despite the fact that they`re all different and have a different ball joint axis inclination than the B-spindles that were formerly (a few minutes ago) peoples "best bet".
I hate to break it to you, but the guys on this forum are a LOT smarter than that.
Bottom line, arms of any kind or brand certainly play a role in the suspension but it is only a supporting role. The geometry and performance of the suspension are defined primarily by the pickup points (pivoting points) of the suspension. On a car such as a GM A body which has totally backward suspension geometry by modern standards you`re only putting bandaids all over the car until you repair the geometry by moving those pickup points. In this case the primary errors are vertical and arms aren`t capable of moving these points,they simply connect them together they don`t define them. So you don`t pick a set of arms because they look gee wiz cool and then select a set of random spindles to use with them. You select the spindles (or other geometry altering components) to redefine the geometry to suit your needs and then select arms which are configured to compliment them.
There is no "one size fits all" suspension solution for all cars,all applications and all drivers anymore than one size,type and style of house would suit everyone. Savy companies will build a custom package to suit each clients goals, budget and needs. Mark SC&C

[Tony_SS]

I tried some solid 'geometry corrected' control arms and they failed me miserably.

The Stage 1 kit with SPC adjustable arms from SC&C worked out perfect.