View Full Version : ls1 dampner bolt
bret loibl
04-21-2009, 05:54 PM
anyone ever have trouble with the balancer bolt on a 04 ls1 from a gto???? Going to change the drive system and that baby's tight!!! The bolt isin't a left hand thread by chance? anyone got any tricks let me know thanks
parsonsj
04-21-2009, 06:43 PM
No... it's not a left-hand thread. If you have a manual transmission, put it in reverse, block the rear tires well, and use a 4 foot breaker bar. That's how I got mine loose.
jp
zbugger
04-21-2009, 06:57 PM
I forget the torque settings on that thing, but I remember it being crazy high. I did however find these notes.
Crankshaft Balancer Bolt (Installation Pass-to Ensure the Balancer is Completely Installed) - 240 lb ft
Crankshaft Balancer Bolt (First Pass-Install a NEW Bolt After the Installation Pass and Tighten as Described in the First and Final Passes) - 37 lb ft
Crankshaft Balancer Bolt (Final Pass) - 140 degrees
CarlC
04-21-2009, 07:35 PM
If you are going to put a new damper on I suggest a different procedure for installation.
There is a specification out there for how far the damper needs to be pushed on to the crankshaft snout. If memory serves, the front of the crankshaft snout should be 1/8" recessed from the front face of the damper. Put a mark on the bore of the damper at the final crankshaft depth. Lightly oil the crankshaft snout, heat the damper to 230* in an oven or induction heater (no torches) and slide it on to the mark. It makes the installation process super easy compared to the OE method, especially if the engine is in the car.
An ARP bolt is the way to go.
That's a good idea Carl. I have modified my SBC balancer installer to work with a Gen3/4 engine. It works fine but it's not the greatest since the centers of the balancers are so recessed.
As for getting it off when torqued, 120 psi running through a quality 1/2" impact gun. Comes right off after a few seconds and there's nothing wrong with doing it this way. Don't ever do your head bolts this way though.
Allen has the correct torque procedure. That 140* is a lot harder t do than you think. I use a pipe slipped onto my 24" breaker bar. Or I pull our a 3/4" drive torque wrench and have my way with it from under the car. Car's on a lift. If you can't stand under the car, my condolences and best of luck getting it tight.
i got a spare flywheel and threaded a long bolt through it and braced the bolt to the block with block of wood, while it was on a stand on the ground. got a long pipe and a braker bar and had at that SOB!! took all i had to get it off!!
i put it back on at 200 foot pound the same way using the ARP bolt
bret loibl
05-17-2009, 05:07 PM
Hey thanks everyone....I got the bolt out and yes that dude was crazy tight
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