Soft pedal after new Wilwood brakes installed?

[Erik Beckett]

I had another thread going but it was more about tire fitment and alignment after my brake install. Now I have more questions that I need help with.

After my brake install I was told it would take a little while for a firm pedal because the brake pads need to seat. I am not sure how long this takes to accomplish proper brake pad seat. My pedal seems pretty soft right now. I am running the 7/8" master cylinder and proportioning valve is wide open to the rears right now. I am not sure how many turn that should be set at. I do not know if he bench bled the master or not. i will ask him today.

He plumbed the master cylinder a little different then I have seem on this website. He used both front ports going to directly to each side instead of a T. Pic is included. He did great work on the bending and the little brackets he fabbed up.

Also, I think I need to look at brake pedal travel as well. Can somebody send me a link to pedal ratio info?



Thanks, Erik

[Vegas69]

The front brakes are hooked up incorrectly. Wilwood told me to only use one side of the front brake port and T is off down line. My guess is your cutting the pressure in half to each front caliper. I'd block off the engine side with the plugs provided and simply put a T down near the frame where the lines run towards the LF caliper and down the frame to the RF.https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/07/IMG_0933-1.jpg

[Erik Beckett]

Can anybody else confirm that this master cylinder is plumbed wrong before I call Wilwood and ask them? I don't under stand how that would make a difference, the T would only be down the 12"-15" anyways, but I will see what Wilwood or Dean @ Hotrodsusa says.

Thanks, Erik

[ProdigyCustoms]

The pedal getting firmer is BS. The master is plumbed wrong. As Todd said, They need to use one side and Tee the lines.

I would be curious what Dean says.

[Erik Beckett]

Hey Frank,

I am going to call them this afternoon and see what they say. Does having having the prop valve open all the way have anything to do with pedal feel at all? I am new to this so bear with me please. On your cars, what does the prop valve usually get set open to 1/2 turn or something?

Thanks, Erik

[$Mike70Z-28]

my friend had the same problem with the same master and size the master was leaking from the back wear the rubber boot is that connect to the brake pedal you cant see the leak couse of the rubber boot that couled be the problem but you got to put the ' T' off the line

[ProdigyCustoms]

Actually Eric on that set up it is so perfect for the car you may very well run the prop vavle wide open. First you have to get the plumbing correct, then you need to do some 25MPH panic stops and see where the brakes are locking being sure they lock at once, or that the rear lock a tiny bit before the front.

[Vegas69]

I keep adding rear brake to mine...Just have to play with it. After it's plumbed correctly you should perform the test wilwood specifies. Firm pressure on the pedal for two minutes and the pedal should stay firm and in the same position.

[silver69camaro]

Firm pressure on the pedal for two minutes and the pedal should stay firm and in the same position.

Quick tip:
If you have a set of Quick-Grips -
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

reverse the stationary clamp (spreader mode), and use that between the brake pedal and steering column support to apply the brake for the specified time period...check the distance between the pedal pad and floor at the start of two minutes, then after. Quick and easy, especially if you have manual brakes.

[Erik Beckett]

I talked to Dustin or Justin at Wilwood after talking to the supplier of the brakes and both confirmed my master cylinder is the right bore and also the lines are ok to be plumbed this way.

They say I may have some more in the lines then we thought and also we mentioned something about the master cylinder push rod might be in the top hole instead of the lower hole. I am not sure but I will need to look at that one. I have pushed the pedal down for a few minutes and nothing really changed.

Thanks, Erik

[6'9"Witha69]

If you have manual brakes it should be in the top hole.

[Erik Beckett]

Just an update. I did confirm that the master cylinder rod is in the top hole on the brake pedal. I tried bleeding some of the rear brakes tonight but my Mighty Vac was sucking some air around the threads. It was hard to tell air from the lines or from the threads.

My concern know is once I took the master cylinder cover off, I slowly pumped the brakes expecting something like fluid to stream or shoot out of the master cylinder but nothing happened. Not even the slightest bubble in the fluid. Is this something I should be concerned about?

I know in the past, I have had fluid shoot out of the master before.
What else should I look for?

Thanks, Erik

[manny z]

I am kind of confused on why you are splitting the line on the MC that way. The pedel is going to get better when the pads bed in, bullcrap. I have used a few different type of pads on my race car, that has wilwood brakes. Put them on, and go.

One thing that has not been mentioned. Are you still running your stock metering block with your prop valve? I ask cause I was going though the same deal with my charger. I know a mopar is not a chevy but. I took the stock block off, and re-made the lines, bleed them, and took it out for drive. Much much better.
You might want to look at this.

[Erik Beckett]

Wilwood sees no issue with running the lines split off the master cylinder that way. I think everybody is used to seeing it split from the factory. I will call Wilwood one more time and see what they say.

Erik

[Charley Lillard]

I would split the front lines just like the rears are done to keep things in balance but it sounds like more of a bleeding problem. I hate the Mighty Vac. You need to move fluid quickly to get the air bubbles out and I have never been able to do that with the Mighty vac. Try manual bleeding by having someone pump the pedal or get a pressure bleeder or I have had great luck with the Vacula vacumn bleeder. The Vacula style moves fluid fast enough to pull bubbles downhill. are all you bleed screws at the top of the calipers ?

[Vegas69]

I agree, do it the old fashioined way. Manually. I used a vacuum pump and followed that up with a manual bleed. Wilwood needs to get there story straight. They told me to use a T on the front lines.

[Serpa69]

Agree with Charley, Bleed them the old-fashioned way. That is probably your problem if you are wondering about fluid squirting out of the master it is because before the piston clears the hole in the cylinder in pushes a little out before it is fully in the bore. I have seen it where people have the pushrod adjusted incorrectly and the piston never fills up with fluid because the cylinder doesn’t get to the hole to refill it (It never gets fluid in the cylinder) the little fluid you get out when you start bleeding is what is left from the initial bench bleed.

[mnm99]

I don't know about the rest of you , but I use these http://www.speedbleeder.com/ and never have a problem. VERY easy....I hook up a long 6 foot clear hose and put the catch can right next to me so when I pump the brakes on every wheel I could see the bubbles. All I have to do is watch the master so it doesn't go low. Just fill and pump.:razz: