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    Results 1 to 16 of 16
    1. #1
      Join Date
      Jun 2006
      Location
      Katy,TX
      Posts
      1,678

      Torquing ball joints and cotter pins

      Putting the new suspension togetherfinally. Torques the new Howe ball joints to the same specs as MOOG. (Howe tech says they are not on the instructions because they have no specific guidelines). So every one of them the hole is almost obstructed. Maybe 1/2 opening. Tightening would take almost a whole extra notch to open it so alot more torque on it. There were some pictures here of a broken Hoew ball joint stud so a little leary of that much extra torque.

      I guess adding washers could get it in a different spot.



    2. #2
      Join Date
      Dec 2006
      Location
      So Cal
      Posts
      920
      I just received some new MOOG upper balljoints to use on my Tempest.

      They came with instructions that mentioned using washers so you could maintain the 50 to 60 lb. ft. torque on the stud nut and still keep the cotter pin hole lined up with the castle nut.
      Bart F.


      '64 Tempest - LS3/4L70E - Grandma's Poor-Touring car
      '64 GTO - 455 HO/TH400 - Ex-bracket racer, street bruiser
      '02 WS6 convert - LS1/4L60E - Pure stock, pure pleasure

    3. #3
      Join Date
      Apr 2001
      Location
      The City of Fountains
      Posts
      16,129
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by b-man View Post
      I just received some new MOOG upper balljoints to use on my Tempest.

      They came with instructions that mentioned using washers so you could maintain the 50 to 60 lb. ft. torque on the stud nut and still keep the cotter pin hole lined up with the castle nut.
      I always set the torque wrench to the low setting, then just tighten it more until the cotter pin lines up.

      Andrew
      1970 GTO Version 3.0
      1967 Cougar build
      GM High-Tech Performance feature
      My YouTube Channel Please Subscribe!
      Instagram @dr__efi
      I deliver what EFI promises.
      Remote Holley EFI tuning.
      Please get in touch if I can be of service.

      "You were the gun, your voice was the trigger, your bravery was the barrel, your eyes were the bullets." ~ Her

    4. #4
      Join Date
      Jun 2006
      Location
      Katy,TX
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      1,678
      "I always set the torque wrench to the low setting, then just tighten it more until the cotter pin lines up." Started there and then going to the upper range the hole is still covered. The Howe's come with one washer I guess I can add another and see where it ends up.

    5. #5
      Join Date
      Nov 2004
      Posts
      27
      There's a trick I use for wheel bearing nuts that would work here as well. I hone the end of the nut on a wet stone, or with a piece of wet dry sandpaper glued to a piece of glass. a couple thousands is usuall all that's needed

    6. #6
      Join Date
      Apr 2001
      Location
      Central CA USA
      Posts
      6,114
      Country Flag: United States
      Most ball joint instructions say to torque to the stated value, then tighten more until the cotter pin can be inserted.
      67 Camaro RS that will be faster than anything Mary owns.

    7. #7
      Join Date
      Dec 2006
      Location
      So Cal
      Posts
      920
      Copied directly from my MOOG ball joint installation instructions:

      NOTE: Some models will require the use of one or more washers supplied between the steering knuckle and slotted nut to provide proper alignment of cotter pin hole. Install slotted nut "F" supplied and tighten to 50-60 foot pounds of torque. Tighten nut to nearest slot if necessary to align with hole in stud and lock with a cotter pin.

    8. #8
      Join Date
      Nov 2008
      Location
      So. Cal.
      Posts
      1,240
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by z65mm6 View Post
      There's a trick I use for wheel bearing nuts that would work here as well. I hone the end of the nut on a wet stone, or with a piece of wet dry sandpaper glued to a piece of glass. a couple thousands is usuall all that's needed
      I like that idea. Clean off any burrs and make it a good sliding surface for torquing values. Its not like you are torquing for major vales. What I like to do is over torque it to seat the bearing surface and push out all grease and debris, yeah, dust. Then back it off and then torque it down to specs. Still missing yer hole? Take it up in torque to the next hole. It will be fine. JR

    9. #9
      Join Date
      Jun 2006
      Location
      Katy,TX
      Posts
      1,678
      I've always just torqued it higher but never had a whole slot to go either.

      And after seeing that broken ball joint here maybe a little leary also.

    10. #10
      Join Date
      Jun 2006
      Location
      Katy,TX
      Posts
      1,678
      Well yesterday after taking them off and on several times and retorquign they finally got close enough to just need a little tweak.

      Now on to bleeding the new Wilwoods

    11. #11
      Join Date
      Apr 2001
      Location
      The City of Fountains
      Posts
      16,129
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      Quote Originally Posted by Skip Fix View Post
      ....

      Now on to bleeding the new Wilwoods
      Do the "clear tube in a clear bottle method." It works great and you can bleed breaks without a mess and by yourself.

      Andrew
      1970 GTO Version 3.0
      1967 Cougar build
      GM High-Tech Performance feature
      My YouTube Channel Please Subscribe!
      Instagram @dr__efi
      I deliver what EFI promises.
      Remote Holley EFI tuning.
      Please get in touch if I can be of service.

      "You were the gun, your voice was the trigger, your bravery was the barrel, your eyes were the bullets." ~ Her

    12. #12
      Join Date
      Jun 2006
      Location
      Katy,TX
      Posts
      1,678
      Got them bled , now have to replace an O ring in the NEW line lock! Found it leaks with pressure, that after chasing replacing the fitting at the MC(Edelmann 5/16 IF to 1/4 IF was too short for the Vette MC and the hex hit before the flare sealed.Hit every auto parts store and finally at the second ACE they had one with longer threads!

    13. #13
      Join Date
      Feb 2006
      Location
      Idaho Falls, Id
      Posts
      1,341
      Quote Originally Posted by Skip Fix View Post
      I've always just torqued it higher but never had a whole slot to go either.

      And after seeing that broken ball joint here maybe a little leary also.
      Was there a specific thread about a broken ball joint? I'd like to check it out if someone knows which thread. thanks
      Traven

    14. #14
      Join Date
      Jul 2002
      Location
      Mesquite, TX
      Posts
      4,941
      Country Flag: United States
      Probably this one:
      https://www.pro-touring.com/forum/sh...ken+ball+joint

      (search terms: broken ball joint)

    15. #15
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      Red Deer, Alberta, Canada
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      1,364
      Country Flag: Canada
      Quote Originally Posted by T_Raven View Post
      Was there a specific thread about a broken ball joint? I'd like to check it out if someone knows which thread. thanks
      point and laugh at me. I'll take it.
      Matt
      72 Chevelle 370ci, 76mm single turbo, TKX, Speedtech Track Time, Millerbuilt Strange full floater 9", Brembo brakes, BC Forged 18x11s with 315s square
      Instagram: Cst_koon

    16. #16
      Join Date
      Feb 2006
      Location
      Idaho Falls, Id
      Posts
      1,341
      Quote Originally Posted by derekf View Post
      Probably this one:
      https://www.pro-touring.com/forum/sh...ken+ball+joint

      (search terms: broken ball joint)

      Thanks, I searched before I asked and by searching for "ball joint" in threat titles it didn't show up, but those words are in the title..weird.
      Traven




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