Before I drill...does this look right?

[funbnme]

Got my shocks moved, so now I can get the hellwig swaybar installed.

Before I turn my rails into swiss cheese, does this look about right?

I needed to bring the mounting point in to the center a bit. Otherwise, the driver side bracket was going to clip the fuel filter if I hit a bump. I could have cut away some of the bracket to clear it. Am I better leaving the brackets where they are, or pushing them out to the ends and cutting away the edge of the bracket?

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/03/DSCF3090-1.jpg

Here's what the bracket looked like if I brought it closer to the end of the bar. I think I could cut away enough to clear the filter, but if the rear end jumped more than an inch, I could be in trouble.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/03/DSCF3084-1.jpg


Driver side. I'll drill the holes a bit lower than where it sits now.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/03/DSCF3088-1.jpg

Pass side.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/03/DSCF3087-1.jpg


From the instructions, it says to get the bar parallel to the ground. With the car on jack stands, are there any tips or tricks to get it close?

I have the links as short as they'll go...should the end of the bar sit lower or higher?

[JRouche]

I dont know that it will change the rate of the bar if the axle mounts are in or out, I dont think so, so I would leave it where you have good clearance. If the ends are too long for you to get the bars parallel to the ground can you fab up some new shorter ones. Might only take a sectioning out of say an inch and welding them back together. Looks good so far, kinda hard to tell the levelness of the bar ends. JR

Oh yeah, Im in the process of installing a sway bar too. I will need to cross drill my frame for 1/2" bolts. What Im gonna do to help from tearing out any holes on the frame is weld in .250 wall tube with a 1/2" ID in the frame. Instead of just drilling holes for the bolts. Just an extra step, not completely necessary. But I will have a few extra holes not being used in case I want to move the bar forward or backward to adjust the rate. My bar is a lil different though. I can adjust my rate by where I hook up my links on the arms. It will vary the rate between 289-433LBS

[silver69camaro]

I'd be a little concerned about the link rubbing against the frame rail. It will move sideways slightly in it's travel. Consider spacing it away a bit.

[funbnme]

I moved the upper link mount a bit back & about midway on the rail. It just does barely rub on both sides, so I'll have to get a couple washers to space it out just a bit.

[JRouche]

I moved the upper link mount a bit back & about midway on the rail. It just does barely rub on both sides, so I'll have to get a couple washers to space it out just a bit.

I would use some spacers made just for the rod ends. Flat washers are just gonna cause the same problem. As the ball moves in the housing of the rod end it needs clearance for side movement. JR
http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/Rod-End-Accessories_c_80.html

[funbnme]

The kit came with regular washers to go between the bolt head and the rod end. The rod end isn't a heim joint or ball end. The washers moved the whole rod away from the frame rail so the shaft on the end link isn't rubbing on the frame at all.

The rear sway bar gave a noticeable improvement in handling. The rear end feels firmly planted at all times now. The car should be a lot more fun at my next track event.