View Full Version : My 70 Chevelle
rlehto
03-01-2009, 10:28 PM
OK I've dismantled most of the car and stripped some of the paint to see if anything I didn't know about. Nothing yet a little rust around the window and that's about it. I already knew the qtr was mangled by PO. Also pulled the motor and transmission and looking for body parts and an ls1 with T-56.
Before:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/03/Mycar-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/03/Mycar2-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/03/Engine-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/03/Trans-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/03/DSC02225-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/03/DSC02226-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/03/DSC02223-1.jpg
Motown 454
03-01-2009, 10:47 PM
Its nice when there are no suprises under the paint. It looks like you have a nice starting point.
brans72
03-02-2009, 04:45 AM
you got lucky I got lots of surpises with my chevelle.
DvBoard
03-02-2009, 08:18 AM
Going with a ladder frame i see?
lol, joking. Looks like a nice project! Got anything else to put that nice engine in you just took out?
jy211
03-02-2009, 08:41 AM
gotta love the old school 5 hole wheels! I wish they made them bigger :)
icebird84
03-02-2009, 09:28 AM
nice chevelle to build from
rlehto
03-02-2009, 10:32 AM
Going with a ladder frame i see?
lol, joking. Looks like a nice project! Got anything else to put that nice engine in you just took out?
Yea I'll lose at least 100lbs using the fiberglass/aluminum frame. haha
As for as the motor its for sale on Craig's list. If I could I would try to cram it in my '88 Runner.
Yea, no surprises but still I knew that quarter had to go along with inner wheel well. If I had to guess there is at least a gallon and a half of bondo on that quarter.
rlehto
03-03-2009, 04:48 PM
Anyone have a recomendation to stop the surface rust? I bought a metal prep. that said would stop flash rust but no luck. I don't have a sprayer for primer quite setup. I was going to buy some rattle cans of self-etching primer but its still too cold to spray it.
t72ss402
03-04-2009, 03:54 AM
Looks like you got really lucky on the body. I just started on my 72 and I am not a body man so I have a friend starting on my quarters, Which now is leading to the whole trunk pan inner and outer wheel wells etc.......
So are you going to keep the cowl hood on your project. I bought a new goodmark ss hood but now I want to switch to the cowl. If interested in selling let me know.
Good luck.
rlehto
03-04-2009, 10:55 PM
Haven't stripped that yet, there might be a bad spot but I plan on using it sorry.
1971CHEVELLE
03-06-2009, 04:53 AM
Car looks solid.......
rlehto
03-08-2009, 12:41 PM
I want to incorporate my two favorite things in this car. Jets and muscle cars. I would like to make some what subtle changes so it doesn't become corny. Also I would like it to be my daily driver so drivablity is a must
Powertrain
Engine: LS1
Trans: T-56
Rear-End: 12bolt?
Suspension/Brakes
Still researching probably lower it coil overs.
Tubed control arms poly bushings still deciding on this stuff.
Four-Wheel Discs
Interior
Black leather.
I want put in newer bucket seats
Classic Instruments Gauges (Bomber Looking ones are cool) or digital stuff
Mild Stero New Head unit with I-pod cable Nothing crazy
The whole car should have a jet fighter feel but I don't want to go to over the top.
Some one suggested painting the some of the intoerir panels in trunk like a airplane primer they use on sheet metal.
Exterior
Black with Flat Black Stripes Ultra stealthy.
Black chrome or paint all the chrome pieces haven't decided if this will look good.
Wheels/Tires
I like the black or gunmetal centers polished lip 16"s or 17"s
More to come as I think of it or decide. Will keep reading and learning.
Motown 454
03-08-2009, 05:05 PM
I like those bomber style gauges too the look nice. Maybe some toggle switches to go with them.
rlehto
03-09-2009, 02:21 PM
I've decided to name my project Shock and Awe and the car is still unnamed besides SR-70. I do plan and putting touches like a push button start that will look similar to a jet craft start up and warning lights similar like Master Caution for Check Engine and such. Maybe the pull to adjust the seat could look like an ejection seat pull. Still thinking stuff up
rlehto
04-21-2009, 05:07 PM
Last week I went ahead and order new hardware and body bushing. The old ones came out real easy I was surprised. Also I bought a door hinge repair kit to make sure when I fit all the panels for gaps they are where I want them. Next step align the doors, fenders, hood, and deck lid before I remove the original quarter.
Motown 454
04-22-2009, 02:12 PM
I like the project name. Keep us posted.
rlehto
07-10-2009, 11:42 AM
Well progress has been made in a financial sense. I was able to sell my 350 with Turbo 400 and 10bolt the other week.
Now I've found a wrecked 2002 Convertible Camaro with LS1 Automatic. It was hit in the front but the motor and drivetrain are good I can hear it run if I want. He wants $3000 for the whole car.
I'm not sure if its worth it to pull the motor, wiring and fuel system which I want and sell what I don't want mainly the Automatic Trans and the rest of the car.
I figure if I can make $1000 back from parting the car that should be about right to get a T56 for the LS1 and maybe some other items I need for the swap like clutch pedals.
rlehto
07-20-2009, 02:52 PM
Progress: Sold my old quadrajet carb $25 haha hey every little bit helps.
Also Picked up a 12 Bolt from a 71 El Camino with Sway bar and boxed four link control arms. It decodes as 3.31 gears and posi-traction for $500 bucks not too bad I think.
Now since I sold my springs and shocks in with my rear :pat: I'm researching what I want/need for a good price.
rlehto
07-20-2009, 03:06 PM
Also I found some more inspirational cars for my build
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
Check out the Chad Dorsey Chevelle Rendering Beautiful by Cars by Kris
Then there is the Zephix "Genesis Chevelle" although his site is no longer working there is you tube clip
https://www.pro-touring.com/forum/showthread.php?t=8683
http://vids.myspace.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=vids.individual&videoid=8808614
dmc69
07-20-2009, 03:26 PM
nice motivation
rlehto
07-31-2009, 07:05 PM
Here's the 12 Bolt I picked up. My Eaton Posi, 3.73 gears, and installation kit are on their way courtesy of Big Gear Head. Goal this weekend is to sand blast and paint the housing.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/08/DSC02266-1.jpg
More to come.
rlehto
08-16-2009, 07:58 PM
Well as seems to always be the case I'm a little behind putting it all back together and the fact that my brother's HF sandblaster doesn't like my dad's craftsman air compressor didn't help but I did manage to get it painted and torn down. I also ran into a snag apparently the ring bolts from the Yukon installation kit do not require lock washers good to know now i need new ring gear bolts as trying to torque them down ruined it.
Good news I picked up a 2000 LS-1 from a Carmaro with 52k and a T-56 with 60k so the guy said from ebay for about 2,800 minus some accessories and the harness.
Pics
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/08/DSC02280-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/08/DSC02298-1.jpg
icebird84
08-16-2009, 08:29 PM
nice
LSXZ28
08-17-2009, 04:21 AM
That was a great deal on the LS1 and T-56! Saw that one on there, but he wouldn't ship... little far for a road trip!
rlehto
08-17-2009, 09:23 AM
Yea my dad and I did the roadtrip only four hours from here so $50 in gas versus $200 some i'm guessing for shipping.
rlehto
07-22-2012, 12:13 PM
Well time flies I do have some small updates I completed my rebuild of the 12 bolt and have it temporaly under the car so I could transport it to Texas. Now I have some time and a workspace but money will be short as I am in the midsts of planning for a wedding, but maybe I can do some small things until that's paid for. That being said I've decided to do my project in stages instead of one shot.
Stage 1 Kill all rust, Body/Frame Repair & Paint, Install LS1/T56, Get it on the road!
Stage 2 Update Brakes and suspension lower with tires and wheels.
Stage 3 Turbo(s)??? TBD
Here's a few pics:
I stripped most of the paint to get a handle on what needed replaced. Good news not much rust a little on the bottom of Pass. Fender & Qtr, around rear window, front cowl area not much. The bad I need a new quater PO had an accident and on went the bondo by the bucket full.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/07/20120722_101141-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/07/20120722_101150-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/07/20120722_101119-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/07/20120722_101108-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/07/20120722_101214-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/07/20120722_101303-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/07/20120722_100939-1.jpg
PO cut the package tray all up not sure for what when I bought it had standard speakers in the back
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/07/20120722_100921-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/07/20120722_101013-1.jpg
Lesson learned always double check your brother torqued the lug nuts!!!:banghead:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/07/20120722_101026-1.jpg
PO must of had Bondo delievered in bulk replacing this peice alone should cut 50lbs
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/07/20120722_100755-1.jpg
Up close I dug some out looks like I can tell the history of layers of bondo
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/07/20120722_100804-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/07/20120722_100824-1.jpg
Inside Damage and drilled holes
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/07/20120722_101355-1.jpg
Versus the Passenger side which looks good
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/07/20120722_101416-1.jpg
Floor and Trunk Good
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/07/20120722_100906-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/07/20120722_100835-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/07/20120722_101456-1.jpg
rlehto
07-22-2012, 12:14 PM
I think I need my hinges rebuilt this is as close as I can get the pass. side of the hood to the top of the fender.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/07/20120722_101539-1.jpg
AdvAutoBob
07-23-2012, 09:28 AM
I feel your pain on that quarter rust... I had to replace BOTH of the quarters on my '70 (unfortunately, a common problem) - NOT cheap!
rlehto
11-11-2012, 06:51 PM
Made some more progress.
Got the door and fender in fairly close
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/11/20121103_171234-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/11/20121103_171303-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/11/20121103_171245-1.jpg
Got a great deal on some Ls1 brakes at the local pick-n-pull everything half off. I was able to get front and rears with e-brakes
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/11/20120912_062931-1.jpg
My Dirty Dingo slider adapter plates and new energy suspension motor mounts also came they look great
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/11/20121103_172051-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/11/20121103_172059-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/11/20121103_172105-1.jpg
Sent the hinges off to get rebuilt by Willie Wilson he did a great job, I'll have to get pictures in the daylight.
That fixed the rear of the hood alignment but the hinges were so stiff the first time, it flexed the hood a little where it looks like it previously been damaged there is a slight crease in the top and where the hinges mount the structure seems bowed slightly I noticed? When I stripped the hood this area had quite a bit of bondo from PO. I wonder how it happened? I'll get pictures in the light.
rlehto
12-02-2012, 04:35 PM
Here is some of damage I found to hood.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/12/20121202_173727-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/12/20121202_173812-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/12/20121202_173841-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/12/20121202_173919-1.jpg
The rebuilt hood hinges
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/12/20121202_173835-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/12/20121202_173827-1.jpg
On a side note I was able to pick up a 2004 GTO PCM and Harness but it was drive by wire so I need to look into how to convert it to drive by cable shouldn't be a big deal I was going to rewire it to be a standalone harness anyways.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/12/20121129_193926-1.jpg
It came with the TPC which I'm guess I won't need?
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/12/20121202_174004-1.jpg
rlehto
02-05-2013, 05:52 PM
Update:
I got the front to line up and the driver's door in position. I even had enough time to fit the motor in minus the transmission. Looks like everything clears!
This is a neat trick I picked up from someone on the Chevelle Forum to easily gap the fenders to the hood without the hood. I conduits are notch so it is the distance you need to fit the hood plus 1/8" gap you just bank against them.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/02/20130130_224744_zps073f40bc-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/02/20130130_224802_zpsfa6e5310-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/02/20130202_164759_zpsaf0687f9-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/02/20130203_162249_zps37bf1ad5-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/02/20130203_162257_zps4e82e853-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/02/20130203_144731_zpsbc07d7d8-1.jpg
Full Lock All Clear
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/02/20130203_144559_zpsa027be8c-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/02/20130203_144215_zpsa43fd942-1.jpg
The pan clears the crossmember
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/02/20130203_144335_zps098e3c71-1.jpg
Plenty of room to move it back
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/02/20130203_144520_zps8e0f0c66-1.jpg
rlehto
02-17-2013, 07:19 PM
Started on the rewiring the harness so far it hasn't been too bad just taking my time labeling everything and following the pin out diagram I found on the web.
Stock 2004 GTO Harness
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/02/20130208_183801_zpsbe5e1890-1.jpg
Blue/Green Connectors
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/02/20130208_183812_zpsa4d930df-1.jpg
Not Sure if this marshmallow type goo is factory? Also I'm not sure what these connectors are for maybe for the auto transmission? I'll have to do some more research.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/02/20130209_175542_zps55b4f827-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/02/20130209_175549_zps3365d817-1.jpg
And here it is midway through with all the tape gone. I'm still working on pulling the wires I don't need.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/02/20130209_180334_zps899f4c5e-1.jpg
Another thing I tried was fitting the stock F-body headers and to my surprise they fit pretty good. Although the driver's side is pretty close to the brake distribution block which I had known about just about all headers have a problem with it so I'll relocate it near the master cylinder or maybe on top of the frame still thinking
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/02/20130217_192004_zps23e41eda-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/02/20130217_192032_zpsb5d27770-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/02/20130217_192227_zps23ea94ec-1.jpg
Passenger side will fit no problem, good news for me!
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/02/20130217_192055_zps9698db07-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/02/20130217_192129_zpsde64743e-1.jpg
rlehto
04-07-2013, 06:49 PM
A few small updates I have about finished the wiring just a few wires left to convert it from a automatic to a manual harness.
One large update made the leap and cut the big hole for the T56 :6gears:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/04/20130401_202006_zps1d1ba315-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/04/20130407_153548_zps375f2281-1.jpg
I'm still trying to decide if I want to more the shifter to the forward position I can't tell if going to be to far back for comfort and whether the stock console will fit well. I'm going to do some more research for that since the forward position kit is $$$, uses a different shifter, and requires disassemble of the trans with some drilling/cutting of the shift rod. Another option is to convert to a viper tail shaft not sure on the cost labor involved in that either it moves the shifter forward only 3-4" not sure that's enough to put it in the same place as a stock 4 speed
On a side note I ended up sliding my mounts 1 3/4 back this was a compromise to use the stock F-Body pan and give clearance with the firewall and try to get the shift as forward as I can in the f-body location. Might end up moving back some if I move the shifter to the front location. I picked up a p/s pump and alternator cheap and plan on getting the Holley relocation brackets which solves some problems including one I didn't except the dingo sliders interfere with the alternator in the stock f-body position so FYI to those looking at them.
I scored some 2010 Camaro manifolds which look close to hooker's new cast manifolds we'll see how they fit couldn't find too much info on them in a Chevelle.
Windy City Chevelle
04-07-2013, 07:02 PM
I am sure this will be a sweet build and your Chevelle looked 10 time better then mine when I started my build, check out my fb build page
http://m.facebook.com/pages/68-Chevelle-SS-Project-Lost-Hope/153831408114614?id=153831408114614&refsrc=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.facebook.com%2Fpages%2F68-Chevelle-SS-Project-Lost-Hope%2F153831408114614&_rdr
rlehto
04-11-2013, 06:00 PM
I am sure this will be a sweet build and your Chevelle looked 10 time better then mine when I started my build, check out my fb build page
http://m.facebook.com/pages/68-Chevelle-SS-Project-Lost-Hope/153831408114614?id=153831408114614&refsrc=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.facebook.com%2Fpages%2F68-Chevelle-SS-Project-Lost-Hope%2F153831408114614&_rdr
Thanks, I guess I was lucky in that respect. Your build looks like its going well even though you started with diamond in the rough, killer fab work too, I just picked up a used welder so I'll be playing with that some not at the level your at.
I like the color combo and painting the chrome is something I've been thinking about doing less to take care of and gives it a mean street fighter look.
CruizinKev
04-11-2013, 11:23 PM
project looks good so far! :twothumbs
andrewb70
04-12-2013, 05:32 AM
Nice project.
While you are doing the transmission tunnel, I would raise the whole driveshaft tunnel. Also, raise the back of the transmission to where it is level with the frame. This will greatly improve your driveline angles once the car is lowered.
Andrew
rlehto
04-14-2013, 04:47 PM
THanks just trying to help other's out if they need it and keep a document so I know why I did what I did haha. I know a lot of other builds on here and else where definately have helped me so far.
Nice project.
While you are doing the transmission tunnel, I would raise the whole driveshaft tunnel. Also, raise the back of the transmission to where it is level with the frame. This will greatly improve your driveline angles once the car is lowered.
Andrew
Good advice I've got your thread bookmarked great stuff there.
I'm thinking its pretty high right now with the energy suspension mounts and dingo sliders it raises the motor up quite a bit. So much so I can bolt up the cross member without modification to give me an angle of 3.5-4deg down toward the rear. The frame sits at 1deg up towards the rear
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://s637.photobucket.com/user/rlehto/media/Chevelle Resto/20130413_174155_zps0c4197fb.jpg.html)
My pinion sits at ~2deg with stock control arms
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://s637.photobucket.com/user/rlehto/media/Chevelle Resto/20130413_174854_zps0917b6ab.jpg.html)
How high the rear of the trans is bolted up to the stock cross memeber
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://s637.photobucket.com/user/rlehto/media/Chevelle Resto/20130413_182737_zps5aafc1a0.jpg.html)
I also got my hands on some 2010-2012 Camaro manifolds they fit pretty well and I like the look better that the 4th gen manifold which have egr ports. I'll definately have to move the brake distribution block as the drives side occupys the same space.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://s637.photobucket.com/user/rlehto/media/Chevelle Resto/20130413_173539_zps20b9f171.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://s637.photobucket.com/user/rlehto/media/Chevelle Resto/20130413_182651_zpsf288a562.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://s637.photobucket.com/user/rlehto/media/Chevelle Resto/20130413_182705_zps61bf4553.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://s637.photobucket.com/user/rlehto/media/Chevelle Resto/20130413_173617_zps33261bc9.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://s637.photobucket.com/user/rlehto/media/Chevelle Resto/20130413_173608_zps72e7bfa0.jpg.html)
rlehto
07-06-2013, 02:15 PM
Well been playing around with the welder and starting to mock up the tunnel. I was thinking of just adding filler strips and keep the top cut portion of the tunnel to keep the fabbing of a tunnel to minimum and I also hope that by raising the entire tunnel I can install a factory console if I want since the contour should match up. Note I will raise the rear portion once I get the front where I want it.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/07/20130702_212156_zps2ea438c0-1.jpg (http://s637.photobucket.com/user/rlehto/media/Chevelle%20Resto/20130702_212156_zps2ea438c0.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/07/20130706_135200_zpsa778b085-1.jpg (http://s637.photobucket.com/user/rlehto/media/Chevelle%20Resto/20130706_135200_zpsa778b085.jpg.html)
Still working on my fab skills and trying to get an idea of the cleanest way to piece it together obliviously near the firewall it gets tricky. Its hard to tell if I have enough clearance, setting the tunnel on top trying to balance it on the edge of the filler strip its hard to keep it all mocked up together, probably need to invest in some heavy duty magnets.
Speaking of the firewall I'm doing some research as to which holes are factory and will be reused and which can be smoothed over. I don't plan on using the Stock insulator pad so that should clean up the majority of holes along with some PO drilled holes and the A/C Control hole
For the A/C my plan is to install a Classic Air Unit, which comes with a cheesy IMO delete plate. I was looking and I saw a A/C delete box on the one of the restore parts catalog here http://www.opgi.com/chevelle/CH27810/.
I like the idea of it covering all the stock holes while keeping a cleaner look versus the cover plate CA provides. Although I'm not sure if its deep enough to be able to cover the CA heater and A/C lines. My other options would be to take a stock A/C box and cut it and patch it or smooth the fire wall and get a Vintage Air Unit.
From one 70 chevelle owner to another, looking good! Take your time and plan every move, you don't want to re-do things once or twice. Ask me how I know!
rlehto
09-15-2013, 02:56 PM
Slow progress ordered an E-bay Clutch Master Bracket, a Used Master Cylinder, and some new drum hubs from CPP which were a great deal came with all the bearings and seals. I tried finding some used ones from guys getting rid of their drum brakes but the cheapest I could get was $40 and I would want to rebuild them anyway. So these are a way better deal now I just need to get turned to be able to fit the LS1 Rotors.
Looks like I will need to fab a patch to seal off the gap between the firewall and the master cylinder bracket.
raustinss
09-18-2013, 03:47 AM
Google abc smooth firewall...it will come up I can't remember what the actual website is but they sell a one two or three piece firewall smoothie panel..which can either replace the factory firewall or weld overtop...parts look laser cut and good quality. quick response from email and great prices..that is where I'll be sending my business
Good luck Ryan
BLACKLIST
09-24-2013, 07:24 AM
looking good. nice build.
rlehto
02-18-2014, 05:41 AM
Got the hubs turned down and tried my hand at making some adapter brackets. Some of the hardware needs to be exchanged it's a little long.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/02/20140217_205312_zpstbgbzlyl-1.jpg (http://s637.photobucket.com/user/rlehto/media/Chevelle%20Resto/20140217_205312_zpstbgbzlyl.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/02/20140217_204823_zpsrdh01ixb-1.jpg (http://s637.photobucket.com/user/rlehto/media/Chevelle%20Resto/20140217_204823_zpsrdh01ixb.jpg.html)
rlehto
02-27-2014, 06:42 PM
Got a few of my b-day gifts! Orange to match my hoist and crappy lawnmower :)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/02/20140227_201102_zpsxgrgadnt-1.jpg (http://s637.photobucket.com/user/rlehto/media/Chevelle%20Resto/20140227_201102_zpsxgrgadnt.jpg.html)
rlehto
04-05-2014, 04:54 PM
Made some progress got the spindles cleaned up and painted looking good as new.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/04/20140321_075712_zpsjgxfelfp-1.jpg (http://s637.photobucket.com/user/rlehto/media/Chevelle%20Resto/20140321_075712_zpsjgxfelfp.jpg.html)
But after a morning cleaning upper and lower a-arms I found the lower driver's side wouldn't hold the replacement ball joint and as I was pressing in the rear oval bushing the opening crack some. On top of that the driver's upper arm cross shaft was so worn it bent the arm enough that I couldn't get the one bushing all the way in the arm before it bottomed out on the replacement shaft. All that to say I will be looking for a full suspension kit probably BMR or UMI look like good candidates.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/04/20140329_154712_zps6dzeod8q-1.jpg (http://s637.photobucket.com/user/rlehto/media/Chevelle%20Resto/20140329_154712_zps6dzeod8q.jpg.html)
Also got the late model Camaro rotor mocked up looks like I need a center the rotor some more and move the mounting holes inboard as it looks like the pads would hang off the edge.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/04/20140405_183643_zpsnjreqxw5-1.jpg (http://s637.photobucket.com/user/rlehto/media/Chevelle%20Resto/20140405_183643_zpsnjreqxw5.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/04/20140405_183726_zps8qlsnkf5-1.jpg (http://s637.photobucket.com/user/rlehto/media/Chevelle%20Resto/20140405_183726_zps8qlsnkf5.jpg.html)
rlehto
04-05-2014, 04:58 PM
One other small set back the CPP hubs I got machined down are cracked at almost every stud. Not sure if it was the machine shop's fault or the fact the castings aren't that good or maybe both? I didn't notice till I was about to paint them. Oh well I'll use them for mock up for now.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/04/20140321_075800_zpssese9aar-1.jpg (http://s637.photobucket.com/user/rlehto/media/Chevelle%20Resto/20140321_075800_zpssese9aar.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/04/20140321_075828_zpsi9more7k-1.jpg (http://s637.photobucket.com/user/rlehto/media/Chevelle%20Resto/20140321_075828_zpsi9more7k.jpg.html)
rlehto
05-25-2014, 10:16 AM
I was able to get the engine back in and installed with my Holley accessory relocation bracket for the alternator and p/s pump, as well as the valve covers. Looks like besides the remote reservoir the pump body is too large to fit in the Holley bracket. Also I had a little interference with the old school valve covers but a little trimming of the spacer fixed that easily. One other thing is the plastic cover on the alternator slightly rubs the valve cover and does not let you remove it. I think I'll cut out a portion and rebuild it with a recess in this area.
Another thing I'm looking at is coil pack relocation either on the block near the motor mounts or behind the engine somewhere though its pretty tight.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/05/20140514_053515_zps604a5726-1.jpg (http://s637.photobucket.com/user/rlehto/media/Chevelle%20Resto/20140514_053515_zps604a5726.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/05/20140511_172419_zps45902b4f-1.jpg (http://s637.photobucket.com/user/rlehto/media/Chevelle%20Resto/20140511_172419_zps45902b4f.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/05/20140511_172450_zps4db0e480-1.jpg (http://s637.photobucket.com/user/rlehto/media/Chevelle%20Resto/20140511_172450_zps4db0e480.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/05/20140511_172354_zps1133b821-1.jpg (http://s637.photobucket.com/user/rlehto/media/Chevelle%20Resto/20140511_172354_zps1133b821.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/05/20140518_184924_zpsee86f81f-1.jpg (http://s637.photobucket.com/user/rlehto/media/Chevelle%20Resto/20140518_184924_zpsee86f81f.jpg.html)
raustinss
05-25-2014, 07:25 PM
I'm doing a ls7 with a t56.....my car was originally a bb car ss. I want to use dirty dingo sliders what did you use and what part numbers for the energy suspension piece and then what on the frame side? Also what was was the name of the company you got the firewall braket from. I need to mount the slave cylinder
Thanks Ryan Austin
rlehto
06-21-2014, 06:12 PM
I'm doing a ls7 with a t56.....my car was originally a bb car ss. I want to use dirty dingo sliders what did you use and what part numbers for the energy suspension piece and then what on the frame side? Also what was was the name of the company you got the firewall braket from. I need to mount the slave cylinder
Thanks Ryan Austin
I used these sliders from DD: http://dirtydingo.com/store/index.php?cPath=1_206_305_322
These energy suspension mounts P/N 3-1122G: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ENS-3-1122G/?rtype=10
The frame side perches are the stock SB 350 perches I forgot if they are the "tall" or "wide" ones
The bracket for the clutch MC is an ebay purchase just do a search and I'll find it.
rlehto
06-21-2014, 06:47 PM
I spent a little time trying to figure out the coil relocation
My plan was to put them behind on the heads like this
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/06/CoilBracket_zps0943475b-1.jpg (http://s637.photobucket.com/user/rlehto/media/Chevelle%20Resto/CoilBracket_zps0943475b.jpg.html)
Here's how it came out
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/06/20140621_213505_zpsf4wuegtz-1.jpg (http://s637.photobucket.com/user/rlehto/media/Chevelle%20Resto/20140621_213505_zpsf4wuegtz.jpg.html)
Needs a little tweaking
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/06/20140621_213543_zpslntvpc59-1.jpg (http://s637.photobucket.com/user/rlehto/media/Chevelle%20Resto/20140621_213543_zpslntvpc59.jpg.html)
I'll try this arrangement on the next one
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/06/20140621_213627_zpsxppvxo0h-1.jpg (http://s637.photobucket.com/user/rlehto/media/Chevelle%20Resto/20140621_213627_zpsxppvxo0h.jpg.html)
Crestronwizard
06-23-2014, 02:36 AM
Cool idea with the coil packs
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