View Full Version : how long can a new motor sit without being started?

03-08-2005, 05:02 PM
So.... I have a friend of mine helping me get the car ready to run starting next week.... After reading some of the posts in yody's unfortunate startup I am wondering if I should be pulling the cam and changing the lube on the cam before trying to start my car up for the first time... I have owned the car for 2 years and the fellow I bought it from had the motor builtup and put in the car about 7 months before he sold it.... My thought is that since the entire front clip is off the car it would not be that hard to pull the cam now and check to see if lube is dried up rather than roll the dice and risk having to tear everything apart all over again. I am looking for opinions from the group on what direction to take....


03-08-2005, 08:33 PM
depends on what kind of lube they used, if it was that garbage comp cams lube, i would definetly put something different in it. Put in the crane cams lube it is grey and has better additives and won't drip off. Don't forget a bottle of GM's EOS in the oil also

03-08-2005, 10:39 PM
Ask him if he used anything moly based, or with graphite.

03-09-2005, 03:13 AM
The first motor I did for the street racer was a mild motor I built for the kids to learn to drive. Anyway, long story that motor ended up sitting for 2 years. I had used the Comp cams lube. I wanted to tear it down and make a change before putting it in. Good thing, the lube was dry and abrasive now. Bet it would have killed the motor in minutes flat.
I would not risk it OHC, I would tear it down, clean it out and replace it.

03-09-2005, 02:51 PM
That's why I posted that; most graphite stuff dries up, or falls off. However- they don't trun into an abrasive (unless mixed). Some of the older (you can still get 'em) break in lubes had a very light abrasive to 'work in' the surface of chilled iron cams. I don't use those, as I prefer to use DFLs.

03-11-2005, 06:55 AM
What i have been told is if the engine has been stood the weight of the crank squeezes the oil from under it and sits dry on the bearings, what the builder then does is change the oil and takes the dizy out and runs the pump till the oil has reached pressure, using a drill and a bar that fits into the pump drive, also when i fit a new fliter i always fill it up with oil before fitting so as to get oil to bearings right away
hope this helps paul67