Dave Pozzi Comments, Thus Chat 1-16

[Twentyover]

OK, Thursday night 2 weeks ago, I mentioned I was going to run coil spring adjusters similar to what Carl Casanova did on his Camaro, and had a question about adjuster height. Dave Pozzi helped me out by suggesting a different static spring height (4” shorter) to effectively use the full adjustment of the spring adjuster, then commented about slotting the spring pocket and serrating the ‘plate’ that the spring rests against to make it adjustable without disassembling the ball joint.

Does anyone have a picture or other information for the size of the slot in the crossmember spring cup (I’m guessing maybe 3/8” x 2” high or something like that) and frequency of the serrations or the approximate distance between peaks of the serrations. (Dave, are you listening?)

Trying toget my head around this- don’t want to need to spend the money on coilovers to get suspension height adjustment. I live on kind of out in the sticks, and my street ride height needs to be maybe an inch higher than my an autocross ride height.

I was originally going to pm this but thought others may get some value from it, sopublicly posted.

[protour_chevelle]

correct me if I'm wrong but what us Chevelle guys do is the same as the Camaro guys... Measure 3/8" down from the top of the adjuster that hits the top of the spring pocket, and mark a line starting from the top and swing it around the adjuster till you hit your mark 360 degrees around and 3/8" from the top.

Here are mine. I went 1/4" but would do 3/8" Think it would work better.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/01/100_0510-1.jpg?t=1233370518

wait for dave to post up and confirm. Unless I'm way out to lunch :) which I could be.

-Matt

[CarlC]

That correct for the top of the adjuster. However, it is possible to put a hole in the subframe that will allow adjustment of the screw. The screw will need to be modified with notches/ or perhaps a sprocket/ to allow a screwdriver/prybar to be used through the subrame hole to make adjustements.

[David Pozzi]

I spent a couple of hours searching my computer for the photos of them and found nothing, wound up re-arranging a lot of files on my hard drive. Tonight I went out and took these new ones in 5 minutes! Guess I could have saved some time the other night...

Here are a couple of photos of what we are going to try. This has not been put together and I'm not sure how it will all line up to allow an adjuster to reach through the opening to spin the ring. Weight has to be removed from the adjuster or it won't move, and I don't know what ride height will yield what ring position, we may have to rework the threaded part of the adjuster if it's wrong.

I think the notches are 3/16" wide, don't recall the depth but I can measure it for you and post back, I think they are .125" or .150". We painted the rings white to better see them once assembled. Probably only needed to paint the edges... I did the notches on my mill.

Springs used are NASCAR "stock appearing rule" coils that are 9.5" tall X 5" ID for our 69 camaro, - they also make a 5.5" ID coil for second gen Camaros and most 70's cars that use a cast iron knuckle with integral steering arm.
David

[Twentyover]

Chevelle, Carl, and Dave- Thanks for posting.

The slot was pretty much as I imagined it, the serrations a bunch different. I expected a greater number of serrations- you have 16, is it possible to 'catch' serrations going both ways with the slot size given? Using a screwdriver or brake adusting tool?

Please keep this in mind as you assemble the front end- I'm interested in how this deal works out.

[Derek69SS]

On my Chevelles, the adjuster sits up inside the pocket so I don't think you'd be able to adjust it installed.

[Twentyover]

Think that's the point of this exercise- the slot and serrations should- if all goes well- allow you to jack the car up, pull a wheel, and reach through the slot w/ a screwdriver to access the serrations and adjust ride height and crossweight

[David Pozzi]

I'll keep you posted, we did all this about a year ago, then painted the sub and all work stopped and hasn't gone any farther! Hopefully Mary will get going on it again, she re-welded the sub and did all the dissasembly. I was hoping I'd be able to adjust it without even pulling a wheel, but I probably won't be that lucky.

I mocked it up as far as putting the adjuster in the sub, but didn't get the A arms on it or any weight on it, - the sub is not back in the car yet.

[Twentyover]

Thanks Dave. Appreciate you help.

[JEFFTATE]

Wow , that looks neat !
I'll have to try that !