Door jamb wiring

[parsonsj]

I got some help from the folks at Electric Life, and they think I can get my power window kit to work. So... now I have to find a way to get power and ground into the door.

I can't use the sliding mount thingies (like these (http://www.electric-life.com/shopexd.asp?id=1032)), because my speakers are just inside the car there.

I've been looking at these contact door jamb tachs (like these (http://www.painlessperformance.com/webcatalog/plarge/40022.jpg)). I'm concerned about durability and that I have to cut a large hole in the car door and body.

Anybody know how the rare cars that had power windows back in the day did this?

Any other suggestions?

thanks!

jp

[CRead01]

dont know how much room you have between the speakers and door but autoloc makes some stainless looms that are a screw on type that you could probably cut the extra threads off.

[CarlC]

What about using some kind of a boot from a later model compact car? A tour of the junkyard might yield some good results.

[zbugger]

John, I know it might not look great, but something like this -

http://www.electric-life.com/shopexd.asp?id=1320

or this -

http://www.electric-life.com/shopexd.asp?id=1321

would be a better choice. They are most like the factory pieces that you see on new cars today. Might not be the prettiest, but it does the job and protects the wiring. And you don't have to worry about it sliding in and hitting your speakers.

[Steve Firebird]

I used the button type and like them but cutting the holes was tough and it was hard to find a place were they would line up well. I had to modify the weather stripping to make it work.

[parsonsj]

Thanks guys.

I went and looked at my truck, and saw how those boots worked. I think that will work fine for me. Allen, I like the look (and price!) of the EL parts. I'll order up a set today.

jp

[FULMNTE]

On my Monte Carlo, there was a dimple on the door and on the A-pillar where the factory would have cut the holes for the wires if power windows were ordered.
Maybe you can find that as well?

[parsonsj]

a dimple on the door and on the A-pillar where the factory would have cut the holesNo such luck. The Nova guys on Steve's Nova site are telling me my car never came with factory power windows.

Can you describe the locations on the Monte Carlo? Does the A-pillar hole face out (away from the car)? Or does it face back (towards the rear of the car)?

jp

[FULMNTE]

The hole in the a-pillar for the power windows is actually right behind the kickpanel, i.e. when you take the kickpanels off, you can stick your finger through the hole. At least that was the case on my A-Body...

[deluxecustoms]

I don't like the door-contacts can't operate when the door is open and they get large if you need number of contacts. But if your door-jams are tight thats all you can use.

[vp23271]

JP,

I like the look of the rubber boot. It hides and protects the wire and leaves a nice clean finished look. One of my concerns is if their is enough room for that rubber boot once the door closes. I never really checked how much of a void is left between the door shell and the door jamb. Also 2x check the rubber boot length in the full open position of the door and the full closed too. If you offset the 2 holes, you don't want the rubber boot to get pulled out when you open the door all the way.

I have seen pic's of your car and you seem like a very hands on guy for sure. Sorry if I am stating the obvious with the stuff above. Let us know what you decide to go with. This is something I will need to decide on too.

[parsonsj]

Rick, I agree. I like the rubber boot too. The contact method looks a bit too street roddish to me, though I appreciate the engineering.

I have found two existing holes (1/2") in the A-pillars in the door hinge area (pointing out to the side of the car, right about where the dome light door switches are). I put rubber plugs in those holes a long time ago. I think they might be an ideal spot to put a rubber boot to bring wire into the door.

Of course... assuming all that works: I have another problem. I have window cranks now, and so I will need to fill the holes in my custom door panels. I could put in a simple circular plug, but I don't think that will look all that nice.

jp

[vp23271]

Were you planning to mount the up/down switch in the center console or on the door panels?

If you mount then on the doors, maybe you can create a small plate to mount the switch to. Then take the switch/plate and mount it where the cranks were to cover up the hole. Maybe paint the mounting plate or cover it with the same material as the door panel.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/01/0708_crup_07_z1967_chevy_novainterior-1.jpg

[parsonsj]

Were you planning to mount the up/down switch in the center console or on the door panels?Center console. One of the main reasons for doing this is to be able to roll the windows up and down while I'm strapped in. I can't even touch the dash then! Perhaps I can wire it with both, like most modern cars (driver can roll all windows down, passengers get their own switch).

jp

[ProTouring442]

I used the rubber bellows style from the rear doors of a 1990's Pontiac Bonneville on my '72 442. Pull them from a junk yard car, and you can see how they were installed, then mimic the placement on your doors. The boots usually last just about forever, so ones from a yard should work fine.

Shiny Side Up!
Bill

[barno68]

I used the rubber bellows style from the rear doors of a 1990's Pontiac Bonneville on my '72 442. Pull them from a junk yard car, and you can see how they were installed, then mimic the placement on your doors. The boots usually last just about forever, so ones from a yard should work fine.

Shiny Side Up!
Bill

I did the same for mine, pulled them from the rear doors of a '90s Cady.

[FASTRC5]

I would avoid the contact style conectors used on mini van and stick with an offset conduit. Recomend looking at rear doors as they have less electrical content. It would be unusual to not have enough space on an older car as they typicaly use hinges with integral hold open. Newer cars are much tighter 2005 cts for example has 19mm door side standoff and 42.5mm body side standoff. Try to maintain factory vertical offset for improved durability of the wires if you go the junkyard route.