Build most budjet friendly LS1 69 camaro - suggestions???

[TrialRun]

Guys,

I've been lurking around here for a few months with "big dreams" of building a 1969 Camaro with a LS1/T56. I'm 25 yrs old and will be completing all the work in my garage with a few buddies to help out. To say the least this will defiantly be a learning experience for me. Within the past 2 weeks I sourced a 69 Camaro that I found locally here in San Antonio on craigslist.com (I love this site). Car was listed with no photos and a vague description. After emailing the seller several times I was able to check out the car two months later. The car had been sitting in his garage since 1995 and the front end and subframe completely disassembled, motor/trans was pulled and sold. The subframe, inner fenders, control arms and spindles were blasted and primed; seller was planning on doing a frame off. Body was still straight with minimal rust issues and all the parts were in the car or in boxes. Long story short, I came back out the following day with cash and got the car for $4,500 (I still have a grin on my face from this find).

Now the fun begins – I sourced a complete 2000 LS1 motor w/82k miles and a auto trans out of a wrecked WS6 off craigslist (did I mention this is a great source), ended up getting everything for $2000. People seem to drop their asking price considerably when you show them cash :woot:. I plan of selling off the auto trans and finding a T-56, also I need to find a computer that is compatible with the 6 speed.

Now I’m stumped, after reading all the treads on this site and LS1Tech, I’m more confused more than ever as to what components to use. My objective is to use the most cost effective parts to complete this swap without compromising quality and function. So I figured, I’d make a thread on here for people who have experience with this conversion to assist me in making the smartest purchases. I will however mention I am very thrifty and would rather not waste money on pricey items, if they can be obtained or made for less.



Let me know your thoughts on the following items in my conquest to build the most budget friendly LS1 69 Camaro:

-Motor mounts adapter plates or kits
-t-56 cross member
-wiring harness
-Oil pan – I plan on notching the factory pan
-master cylinder (I plan on fabbing up a bracket similar to the ats one)
-steering box
-rack and pinion (manual or power)
-Gas tank – thoughts on modifying an OE tank for the sump or an aftermarket one
-fuel system
-radiator / fans
-gauge ideas
-headers
-other misc. items for the swaps


Thanks guys, I try to post some photos up tomorrow and once I decide on a parts list, I’ll start a thread under projects

-Chris

[1969CamaroRS]

Welcome to the site! I too found my car on Craigslist (great resource). I don't have any info on LSX builds and I put a big block in mine, but good luck with your build!

I dunno if you have the budget for the American Touring Specialties LSX stuff but you might check out what they have to offer (and how they did certain things), maybe you can find some of it for sale in the classifieds.

[TrialRun]

Thanks Ed, I looked into some of the products ATS offers and I have to agree its all top notch.

Here are some photos as promised:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/01/IMG_1865-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/01/IMG_1862-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/01/IMG_1864-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/01/IMG_1866-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/01/IMG_1860-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/01/IMG_1861-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/01/69camaro2013-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/01/IMG_1859-1.jpg


-Chris

[Shawn MacAnanny]

I used ATS plates at $125 for the pair, i'd go with hookers for a budget setup and header clearence. They are like $70 i think.

SBC polyurethane mounts are about $60 a pair

You can get a wiring harness for about $400-500 specific for your swap

If you're notching the stock pan then you saved yourself about $500 which is about what i ended up spending for my pan and remote filter and such

The ATS bracket is a nice piece but it is made of like 3/8" steel so it would be hard to bend unless you just cut and welded it at the right angle. It was money well spent for me i think it was like $60 when i bought it.

I cut my stock hydraulic clutch pushrud, ground each piece down to a taper and re-welded it the length i wanted it and fit it to the stock 67-69 pedal assembly hole, no pedal stop (you should have one, ive had no issues though). I took a wet wash cloth and wrapped it around the rod going into the master cylinder to keep it from damamging the plastic cylinder.

I modified my stock TH400 crossmember. I cut it to fit between the fram rails which was like 23". I cut the mount off and re-centered the transmission mount (the were offset 2" so the exhaust header would clear with BBs so are the BB engine mounts). I then welded two pieces of angle iron to the ends of the crossmember and drilled through my frame rails and subframe connectors to mount it. Its a SOLID piece, not pretty.

Gas tank i dont have any info on as i jsut used a new OE tank and ran carbed. At the time i ran 3/8" braided stainles line but now i see they sell aluminum tubing on ebay in 25ft lengths which would have been perfect to run for it. I know that most use a corvette filter setup because it has a built in fuel pressure regulator where you can regulate it back by the tank and save yourself 20 foot of fuel lines needing to be run.

Easiest setup for radiator and fans i can suggest is from a 1994 Camaro. Any setup will work from 1993-2002 but the 1994 had the largest capacity radiator. The thickest core by like 1/4" or something. Any one will work you just bolt through the aluminum tabs on the top and bottom of the radiator and that holds fine. The fans just clip on then. This allows you to use the stock ls1 camaro radiator hoses too for the swap. For those worried about an engine overheating My coolant temp has never seen over 180 degrees with the fans wired to a switch even in the 90+ degree days i was racing/tuning it on my backroads.

I have driven when it was 50 degree outside 17 miles to work without ever turning on the fans and it never went above 170. You gotta think these aluminum radiators were designed to be run with no air flow through them really but what came in through the air dam and fans pull through. They are 100% open in the front of a 1st gen so they get plenty of air flow. Without a doubt LT1 radiator and fans are the way to go they can be had for $100-200.

I've run all autometer gauges. You will need Autometer part number 2277 for the coolant temp sensor in the head, i didnt have to use an oil sender adapater because of my remote filter being NPT.

I ran hooker coated ceramic headers with my swap. They are like $650 new. There are quite a few options out there but these are basically the cheapest and dont rust plus they include gaskets and hardware and work great.

I have 12GB in pictures ive taken from the swap and such from ever little thing i did so if you need pictures or have any questions feel free to email me with them at [email protected] . I'm 21 and did the swap my my lawn (built engine in dining room) and did most everything by myself so it should be 100 times easier for you having a concrete floor and help. Really nice find man! I got my 68 for $1500 with a runing 400 blown transmission though. Lots of rust and such but i wanted to be able to hack it apart for the at home mini-tub and such.

Car weighs 2820 empty with the swap and all steel panels still. 2 seats, no carpet yet. I ran extra steel for the mini-tub, a rear crossmember for the inner shocks, a heavier transmisisons crossemember, subframe connectors, traction bars, and front suspension is bone stock. These cars are very light.

Also another thing i forgot to mention is your drivesahft. You will need a new driveshaft. I had mine Made my Dennys driveshaft. It's their nitrous ready driveshaft which they offer a lifetime warranty with against tube bending or weld breaking (everything but slip yokes and u joints). They make you run a 1350 u joint and with both u joints, a slip yoke for the viper t56, and a 1350 ujoint converter for my 8.5" rear end i paid $560 shipped. It comes painted black with the Denny sticker. What even better is that so long as you keep that stick on there your driveshaft has lifetime free labor for futer modifications (lengthening, shortening, slip yoke swaps, balancing etc) you just pay the shipping and part cost. It took 1 week for my driveshaft to arrive from the day i ordered it. They are AMAZING.

[TrialRun]

Shawn,

Thanks for the info, thats exactly the kind of response i'm looking for. What company did you use for the wiring harness and what are your thoughs on the product? Can you send me photos of the radiatior installed and the crossmember you fabbed up to [email protected]? Thanks

-Chris

[Shawn MacAnanny]

Well i used an MSD 6010 ignition system for the cabureted setup which comes with its own harness. If i did an EFI swap i would use Painless Performance. I've heard nothing but the best about them. There is also a dealer on Ebay who sells a wiring harness but i havent heard anything about them I thought about trying them.