New Rushforth Wheels do not fit in front???

[Erik Beckett]

Hey Guys,

I figured I would post here until I can get a hold of Jon at Driverzinc to ask him. I just received my Rushforth wheels and I ordered what I was told to from Jon, which is a basic front 67 Camaro wheel offset. He knew what I needed. My problem is the outer tie rod end is hitting the rim before I get atleast .5-.75" from the rim sitting flush against the hub. There is no way this setup is going to work.

Now, I didn't buld the car. I bought it this way. I have ECI disc brakes on the front and supposedly these retain the stock hub position instead of pushing out like aftermarket brake hubs do. Also I have QA1 coilovers on the front that I have never messed with.

http://www.ecihotrodbrakes.com/early_chevy_discbrake_conversions.html

What kind of adjustments do I need to make or parts that need replaced to get these rims to fit?

I am sure and hoping Jon chimes in, I just wanted other opinions as well.

Thanks, Erik

[Vegas69]

Sounds like you have 2" drop spindles.

[James OLC]

And probably long steering arms.

[BRIAN]

ECI also makes or at least sells narrow hubs to pull the wheels in for Street Rod use. If you have aluminum hubs they might be them as they are made for 1st gen clips.

[1969CamaroRS]

Brian, this is completely solvable, without going to too much effort. I had a similar problem with my Rushforth wheels. We went with an aggressive front backspacing so I could lower my car more. What I ended up doing to fix it was to shim the steering arms away from the wheel/sidewall. You might need to get new longer bolts for the steering arms, make sure you get grade 8 or better hardware.

From this:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/01/Wheels019sm-1.jpg

Shimming with a couple hardened washers:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/01/Wheels034-1.jpg

To this:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/01/Wheels036-1.jpg

There is no shear load on these bolts so shimming them with washers is completely safe. But I would definitely talk to Jon he completely stood behind the product he sells. He was great to work with when I bought my wheels/tires.

[MuscleRodz]

If you have the narrow track kit as you mentioned, this is more than likely your issue and Jon should have been made aware of it. Jon I am guessing set the backspace up for a factory disc car, and with the narrow track hubs, it sucked the wheel in to far causing the interference with the steering arm. The 1" that it moved the hub in is the clearance you need for your steer arm to clear.

[Erik Beckett]

Thanks for all the replies so fast!!! Like I said, I am not sure what is up front yet as far as drop spindles and such. I do know that it is ECI brakes up front. Which is probably the reason it is doing it. I plan upgrading to all Wilwood all the way around so maybe this will fix the issue.

In the mean time, what do you think would be the easiest fix until new brakes are installed. I like the shim idea but is that safe? How can I tell if the car has drop spindles or not? I will take photos of the setup today and can email them to whomever to post for me.

Thanks gain for all the fast replies.

Erik

[MuscleRodz]

Thanks for all the replies so fast!!! Like I said, I am not sure what is up front yet as far as drop spindles and such. I do know that it is ECI brakes up front. Which is probably the reason it is doing it. I plan upgrading to all Wilwood all the way around so maybe this will fix the issue.

In the mean time, what do you think would be the easiest fix until new brakes are installed. I like the shim idea but is that safe? How can I tell if the car has drop spindles or not? I will take photos of the setup today and can email them to whomever to post for me.

Thanks gain for all the fast replies.

Erikwheel spacers. I would not attempt to space the steering arm in as far as you say you need to and may not have the room to do it anyways. 1 or 2 washers is one thing, moving it 3/4" is another.

[DriverzInc]

If you have the narrow track kit as you mentioned, this is more than likely your issue and Jon should have been made aware of it. Jon I am guessing set the backspace up for a factory disc car, and with the narrow track hubs, it sucked the wheel in to far causing the interference with the steering arm. The 1" that it moved the hub in is the clearance you need for your steer arm to clear.

Just heard about his thread.
This is exactly what happened. Erik's front wheels are set up to fit any front application with a stock track width. Those wheels would work on any other first gen disc brake car. I agree with Mike on using a spacer until you make the change over to Wilwood. Erik, call me tomorrow when we're all back at work and we'll talk more about what can be done to band aid the problem until you make the disc brake change. I have several spacers in stock that I'm more than happy to send to you, and we'll talk more about exactly what you need.

[1969CamaroRS]

Wouldn't shimming the steering arms be safer than wheel spacers? There is no shear load on the steering arm bolts, but there certainly is on the wheel studs...

[MuscleRodz]

Wouldn't shimming the steering arms be safer than wheel spacers? There is no shear load on the steering arm bolts, but there certainly is on the wheel studs...
He needs to move them in .75". There is shear because the steering arm is roughly 2-3" lower creating a torsional load. Not only that by shortening the mount point that far you are also inceasing bumpsteer movement. Spacers offer no shear load than some high offset wheels.

[Steve68]

Sounds like customer service at its best!

[DriverzInc]

Erik,
Good to talk with you this morning. Let me know what the outcome is when you call ECI, or if you end up making the move to Wilwood brakes. Your wheels are built to work with most caliper offsets, so they shouldn't be a problem at all if and when you make the change.

[BRIAN]

Erik,

If you get a chance can you measure your hub to hub width without rotors installed. Simply drop a plumb to the floor on each side and measure. I am curious as to what your width is? Maybe 57 or 58"??

If you are looking to upgrade I might want your hubs to build custom brake kit.

[Erik Beckett]

After spending some time on the car today, I was able to come up with
something that might work until I can get my Wilwoods. I tried different thicknesses of washers on the studs and then bolted the rim up and I think I found a happy medium.

I was able to come up with a spacer thickness of .375" and I clear the tie rod end by 1/4" plus I have 10-11 full turns on the lugnut. I assume 10-12 turns I acceptable. I know Baer makes .25, .375. and .5" spacers so I should be good there.

I haven't been able to get a hold of ECI yet as they were closed for the holiday I guess.

Brian, I will check that measurement for you but I do not plan on tearing this apart until I get my Wilwoods, unless there is another measurement I can do for you with calipers and rotors still mounted.

Thanks, Erik

[BRIAN]

Erik you could measure from the wheel mounting pad with the rotor on. Basically where the wheel mounts on the face of the rotor.

Thanks, I am thinking you are going to come up with a 57" number which would be 2" shorter than a disc brake spindle set up. That is why you are running into problems with fitment.

ECI uses factory parts so you could swap a GM hub and space out the caliper and you would be at the stock 59" for disc brakes which gives you the tie rod clearance you want. You are spacing it out at the hub rather than the wheel.

[Erik Beckett]

Hey Brian,

My wife just got done helping me measure from the front of each rotor where the rim touches and mounts to. We came up with 57.5". I assume she measured where I told here too. Again this from the face of the rotor where my spacer would fit up against. Hope this helps!

Assuming I get Wilwoods soon, I will sell them to you.
Thanks, Erik

[BRIAN]

Thanks for the measurements. You have the narrow kit which I think is their big brake kit with OEM parts. They make quite a few performance pads and rotors for that set up so don't ditch them for Wilwoods that quick. Heck, I think Wilwood and most race brake Co's make stiffer calipers that bolt on.

Thanks,
Brian