AME Max G 1st Gen. Full Chassis

[NVR2L8]

I'm new to this Web Site, so bare with me as I stumble along.
My knowledge of Handling Mods is poor but I do know quite a bit about First Gen. Camaros, in most other respects.
As I understand this thread, posted in the Classified section.. The Full Sub Frame, is going for $10,500 at the moment. What was the original price?
It also appears that it's gonna cost the new owner at least 5K to have it installed, correct?
And in the process, the Shop will tear out the floors, part of the Fire Wall and what else?
In the end, just what IS the big advantage to dropping perhaps 16K or better for this mod?
Only to a select few, will this mod add value to the car.
Educate me, please, seriously.
Thanks Marc
PS,
Not thinking clearly. I began this thread in the Classifieds, my mistake. https://www.pro-touring.com/forum/images/buttons/edit.gif (https://www.pro-touring.com/forum/editpost.php?do=editpost&p=473959)

[dhutton]

My understanding is that it will allow you to have a lower ride height without clearance issues. There are advantages to this beyond the look that you achieve.

Don

[79T/Aman]

you have to define "add value", in other words it will not add value to the car, it appeales strictly to the enthusiast, so if that is something that fits your needs than it has value to you

[NVR2L8]

Strictly from a Handling stand point. I'm attempting to understand the value of spending this level of money on this particular set-up.
I can appreciate the cost of an LS7 with a T56, a custom interior or perhaps a first rate paint job.

[79T/Aman]

well if it gives the enthusiast the level of handling he is looking for then it is of value, but I have a feeling that this is more of a bench racing/opinion debate

[Twentyover]

Is it worth 16K?

I have no idea. First, what are YOUR goals for the car? What does the pot of gold at the end of the rainbow look like TO YOU?

Everyone has a certain depth they can plumb their pocketbook for their toys. You can probably achieve 90% (or a good fraction of the deal) with tall spindles or the G-mod, upper A-arms w/ more caster, and springs and shocks, with the stock front sub. At maybe 10-15% the cost of the aftermarket sub and installation. Is that enough for you? Or do you have the absolute best (and you'll get alot of discussion here as to what that is), and won't be happy until you have that?

A stock sub has compromises, just like the aftermarket subs do. I think you need to better articulate what it is you want the car to do before the board can provide any kind of credible advice.

[NVR2L8]

I probably posted my question incorrectly. It was intended to understand the true value, (not $$$) of such set-up.
Personally, I would not take full advantage of it as I don't road race or run the 1/4 mile.
I can see it providing a great deal of structural rigidity and adding a degree of safety if you were to be T-Boned.

One of things I've learned over the years, is that I don't have to have the very best. A Rolex, while being an extremely nice Watch is also very expensive. A Casio, is not near the quality but will perform the same task as a Rolex in most respects.
As for my Pocketbook, it's deeper now but not nearly so deep that money is no object.

[hotrdblder]

I probably posted my question incorrectly. It was intended to understand the true value, (not $$$) of such set-up.
Personally, I would not take full advantage of it as I don't road race or run the 1/4 mile.
I can see it providing a great deal of structural rigidity and adding a degree of safety if you were to be T-Boned.

One of things I've learned over the years, is that I don't have to have the very best. A Rolex, while being an extremely nice Watch is also very expensive. A Casio, is not near the quality but will perform the same task as a Rolex in most respects.
As for my Pocketbook, it's deeper now but not nearly so deep that money is no object.
then you answered your own question, the full chassis is the rolex of chassis swaps, while you can do a front sub and rear susp for near 1/2, and it will handle as good or better then full chassis, the thing you get with the full chassis, is a custom ride height with proper clearances etc, but that adds a ton to the project.

[SDMAN]

I have an AME max-G frame under my current project. Its a very nice piece. Didnt go with the complete setup as we had some specific things we needed, so I ordered it as close as I could to the way we wanted it and when it got here we fired up the plasma cutter and MIG welder and 'fixed' it. All of that work is done, and it turned out better than I had hoped for. Just put the 12 point moly cage in.
Several reasons I went this way. Its strong. All box tube. You can put any suspension on it you want. And, when they bend it, they bend it to your specification. We put my car as low as is practical, and it turned out OK. See pic. No air bags either (not a fan). Thats the full time ride height, not just when its parked. Should ride and handle very well, and were shooting for 8 second quarter miles (eventually).
All it takes is time and $$$$$. Oh, and the one thing I never seem to have. Patience.

[silver69camaro]

Everyone has a certain depth they can plumb their pocketbook for their toys. You can probably achieve 90% (or a good fraction of the deal) with tall spindles or the G-mod, upper A-arms w/ more caster, and springs and shocks, with the stock front sub. At maybe 10-15% the cost of the aftermarket sub and installation. Is that enough for you? Or do you have the absolute best (and you'll get alot of discussion here as to what that is), and won't be happy until you have that?



I'm not here to advertise our products, but I feel this statement is wrong.

The best advantage to any full frame chassis that allows the builder to channel the body over the frame is not rigidity. Sure, that type of system is very stiff, but the real advantage is ride height.

You can spec the Max-G chassis to have a 4" (or less, whatever you want) ride height from bottom of frame. This means the rocker panel is only 4" off the ground - there will probably never be a subframe produced that can give you that kind of CG height.

Lower CGs like that open a window to handling capabilities no aftermarket subframe can touch, period.

[SDMAN]

The best advantage to any full frame chassis that allows the builder to channel the body over the frame is not rigidity. Sure, that type of system is very stiff, but the real advantage is ride height.

You can spec the Max-G chassis to have a 4" (or less, whatever you want) ride height from bottom of frame. This means the rocker panel is only 4" off the ground - there will probably never be a subframe produced that can give you that kind of CG height.

Lower CGs like that open a window to handling capabilities no aftermarket subframe can touch, period.
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Absolutely! Single biggest reason I went with an aftermarket frame on my project was ride height possibilities and the ability to get the car very low, and still have correct suspension geometry as well as a decent amount of suspension travel.
The ability to step up to modern suspension components and the additional stiffness were just icing on the cake.