Swapping to LS2... Bellhousing / clutch Q's

[Blown353]

I figured I would ask here... I've done some searching but the answer is still somewhat cloudy.

I currently have a Gen 1 SBC, a Mcleod scattershield, Mcleod billet flywheel & Mcleod clutch, and a Tremec TKO. I'm building an LS2 right now to replace my SBC, but I'm keeping the TKO transmission; I'm trying to determine the following:

Will my current scattershield work? The answer seems to be yes but minus one bolt hole.

Will I need a new flywheel? I believe I do...

What pilot bushing will I need for the LS crank and the Gen-1 input shaft tranny?

I'm still debating if I'm going to keep my heim-jointed mechanical clutch, or go hydraulic. I do know if I stick with mechanical I'll have to build my own mount for the ballstud on the block.

[69importkilla]

1st question, yes minus one bolt hole.

Yes, Mcleod now makes a special flywheel for this application. Its .400 thicker to account for the crankshaft flange differences between the GEN 1 and the LSx's.

Mcleod also makes a adaptor pilot bushing.

Scoggin Dickey makes a new adaptor that bolts to the block to mount the ballstud.

Hope this helps!

[alocker]

Go with the LS2 flywheel and LS2 roller pilot bearing (the big one).

[hotrdblder]

you have to be careful as depending on the tranny,bellhousing sometimes the large bearing will not allow unput shaft in all the way, keeping bellhousing off block 3/16ths.
i had this problem as i bought a mcloed modular scattershield for a bbc, then used it on a ls1 tranny and had that problem, i had to use the good ole bronze bushing that came with mcloed kit or you can get at any napa, the cranks on ls's can accept both, i believe, at least my ls6 did.

[Blown353]

Cool, good info so far but I'm still a little muddy on the flywheel & pilot required. I have also heard about incorrect parts leading to too much or not enough engagement of the input shaft into the pilot bushing.

I'm still undecided on mechanical vs. hydraulic.

My heim-jointed mechanical setup is butter-smooth and very simple, but the Z-bar may limit my downpipe routing options. A hydraulic setup is more complex, more failure (leak) points, and I don't like how they feel somewhat "dead" compared to a mechanical setup, but it would allow much more downpipe room without a Z-bar in the way.

I'm looking on SDPC's website right now for the LSx ballstud adapter... I assume this is it:

http://www.sdparts.com/product/SDCB/ClutchPivotBallBracketforGMCarsandTrucks.aspx

[alocker]

Yep, thats the correct bracket for the stud. I wanted to use that but the Edelbrock headers im using interfere with the Z-bar, so I went hydraulic. My iron block actually has an area that you could probably drill and tap for the stud, but I dont know if the aluminum ones have this.

Are you using custom headers or truck manifolds? Just trying to pry info out of you for your new setup. Im assuming your having twins ;)

Im using the LS2 flywheel and pilot with a factory 621 bell and TKO 600. The input shaft almost fully engages the bearing. So if your bell is close to the stock depth, your ok.

[69importkilla]

Just my two cents....

Maybe someone can explain whats up with the LS2 flywheel? Is it thicker than the standard LS1 flywheels?

The mcleod flywheel was created for a reason. Yeah using a different flywheel may work, i'm not saying it wont. But what I do know from mock-ups is that the disk rides right on the end of the splines of the input shaft, and some people have had geometry issues setting up the clutch fork. I guess you could go with a hydraulic set-up, or a longer throwout bearing or a taller ball stud.

Or you could just do it the right way. There is a .400" difference that has to be made up somewhere, I guess it's your choice on how....

[Blown353]

Yep, thats the correct bracket for the stud. I wanted to use that but the Edelbrock headers im using interfere with the Z-bar, so I went hydraulic. My iron block actually has an area that you could probably drill and tap for the stud, but I dont know if the aluminum ones have this.

Are you using custom headers or truck manifolds? Just trying to pry info out of you for your new setup. Im assuming your having twins ;)

Im using the LS2 flywheel and pilot with a factory 621 bell and TKO 600. The input shaft almost fully engages the bearing. So if your bell is close to the stock depth, your ok.

I'm most likely fabbing my own stainless headers. I probably can't do the flipped truck manifolds as the DS manifold will dump right into the steering box on a Chevelle chassis, but I'm going to get a truck manifold to try first. The turbos are twin PT-61/76RS. I actually bought them for my SBC but 2 pistons gave up the ghost recently so I'm selling the SBC stuff and going LS2.

I just bought a new Quick Time LS scattershield for $300; can't beat the live.com 30% off promotion right now on ebay. I was also hoping to buy a Mcleod RST twin disk and get 30%/$200 off through live.com, but Jegs ebay store doesn't currently have the correct part number available on ebay.

I have a call into McLeod for the flywheel... I see .200" and .400" thicker. I was hoping to get a 22# billet steel as I have on my SBC now, but it looks like Mcleod's steel flywheels for the LS are all 28-32#. They do make a 153 tooth 22# LS flywheel, but it is not the extra-thick version.

[The WidowMaker]

i called them and they said either fly would work. i got in on their overstock deal about a year ago and got the .200 thicker aluminum fly.

i also got my 6912-07 rst from tbryne for $500 right before they went under.

why the quicktime scatter shield? any benefit over the mcleod? any mods needed to the block or pan to make it fit?

let us know what works and what doesnt. mcleod is driving distance from me so i can exchange this stuff if necessary.

Tim

[Blown353]

The QTP is a lot smaller & lighter than the Mcleod... so I decided to change. It's a specific LS bellhousing too, not that drilling one hole in the Mcleod at 12 o-clock is a difficult task... LOL

I wish Tbyrne was still around too-- I got some fantastic prices from them before they went under! $500 for the RST is a full $220 cheaper than Summit or Jegs! I have no idea how he made any money.

I wish I could find the Mcleod stuff cheaper... it's $400 or so for the .400" thicker flywheel and $720 for the RST at Summit or Jegs. The tech guy at Mcleod said to use the .400" thicker version.

[The WidowMaker]

i may have to swap my flywheel out then. i got a deal from them for $250 and they had both listed on ebay in their store for the same price. still sitting in the box uninstalled. any reason he said the .400 over the .200?

ive heard of some issues with the qt housing also, mainly not being within the .005 for the tremec, and something about the top being angled down for the corvettes leaving a gap for all other installs.

but, my #8630 mcleod seems a little off also. i have it bolted up now, but only 5 bolts will go in. it seems like i should have at least 6 into the block. the instructions suck, so i need to take that back to them and see as well. i bought it used on ebay, so no swapping out if it doesnt work.

id buy the clutch on jegs ebay store when it goes back up to 30% for live.com. once you place the order, call them and have them switch the part #. i dont see why they wouldnt help you out.

Tim

[Flash68]

I just bought a new Quick Time LS scattershield for $300

So I assume you are selling your McLeod scattershield? PM to discuss.

thanks

[69importkilla]

So blown383, which way are you going mechanical or hydraulic? I havent decided completely which way to go.

[Blown353]

I'm going to try and keep my mechanical setup; I already have all the heim joint linkage, it's super-smooth, stupid-simple, and it's already on the car and paid for.

However, I need to see if the Z-bar will leave enough room to pass a 3" downpipe. If there isn't enough room, I'll go hydraulic. This is a decision that will have to wait until everything is mocked up in the car so I can see clearances.