View Full Version : 68 GTO Project: Grey Goat
josht
11-09-2008, 11:15 PM
Well I have been here, researching and posting questions for while so here is a build thread of some sort.
pictures can be found on:
fquick: http://www.fquick.com/josht
cardomain: http://www.cardomain.com/ride/771273
The GTO was purchased in 2004 on eBay. It took nearly a year before it was media blasted.
vision for the car ::
Color: dark gray with black trim / original color is Verdoro Green
Body mods: removed moldings, trim, shaved doors, trunk with B body mirrors
Old Engine: 73 400 (not the original engine)
New Engine: 07 L92 with 0 miles with VVT removed.
Transmission: 07 6L80e (completely rebuilt and upgraded) . The current transmission is not original. I will be using the Speartech Dual Gate aka his & her shifter.
Rear: 12 bolt Moser with a 3.70 ratio LSD and Tracklock.
Rims: undecided (18x8" Front & possibly in the Rear)
Brakes: C5 conversion with drilled and slotted rotors.
Front Suspension: ATS AFX tall Spindle with SC&C SPC Adjustable upper and Global West tubular lower A-Arms.
Steering: Lee 670 Steering Box.
Rear Suspension: UMI Double Adjustable Upper & Lower Rear Control Arms with Spherical Rod Ends. BMR Control arm mount reinforcement braces.
Suspension: Energy Suspension body mount bushings.
Shocks: VariShocks by Alston/ChassisWorks 16 way adjustable.
Springs: Tru-Coil™ Front Racing Springs - 5" x 9.5" 650#
Tru-Coil® Rear Racing Springs 5" x 10-1/2" 150#
Adjustable Hidden Spring Shim: TD 3-1/8" - 5-1/4" front
Adjustable Hidden Spring Shim: TD 0" - 2-1/2" rear
Fuel System: Rick's Vapor Works 23 Gallon Tank
Safety Stuff: BMR Drive Shaft Loop
I have not decided on the interior, fuel system and some of the electrical stuff.
Feel free to ask questions
josht
11-09-2008, 11:33 PM
Where to purchase 68 GTO reproduction inner grills?
https://www.pro-touring.com/showthread.php?t=37162 (https://www.pro-touring.com/forum/showthread.php?t=37162)
C6 Rim fitment for a 68 GTO with C5 brakes?
https://www.pro-touring.com/showthread.php?t=48209 (https://www.pro-touring.com/forum/showthread.php?t=48209)
I have not made a decision on the rims four years after I purchased the car.
Question on Glass for a 68 GTO, another vent window question.
https://www.pro-touring.com/showthread.php?t=38976 (https://www.pro-touring.com/forum/showthread.php?t=38976)
I am leaning towards removing the vent windows for a cleaner look.
Questions about the OPGI 1967-68 His & Hers Shifter Conversion Kit.
https://www.pro-touring.com/showthread.php?t=37945 (https://www.pro-touring.com/forum/showthread.php?t=37945)
I would love to do a 6L80 but it out of my price range and is internally controlled vs the 4L80e
Questions on GM A-Body suspension/chassis setup.
https://www.pro-touring.com/showthread.php?t=29163 (https://www.pro-touring.com/forum/showthread.php?t=29163)
Where I changed my mind a half dozen times on the engine..
Question on Energy suspension mounts for a 68 GTO.
https://www.pro-touring.com/showthread.php?t=35424 (https://www.pro-touring.com/forum/showthread.php?t=35424)
I was not happy with the OPGI body mounts, should be fine.
The 10 point Cage thread:
https://www.pro-touring.com/showthread.php?t=29359 (https://www.pro-touring.com/forum/showthread.php?t=29359)
The cage still has not been fabricated at this point.
Questions on drum to disk conversion on a GM A-Body:
https://www.pro-touring.com/showthread.php?t=27470 (https://www.pro-touring.com/forum/showthread.php?t=27470)
Code Red
11-10-2008, 04:07 AM
get on it man ;-)
Mr.VENGEANCE
11-10-2008, 07:05 AM
do it!
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
josht
11-10-2008, 06:01 PM
over at LS1 tech there is finally a sticky for multiple builds:
http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/conversions-hybrids/1009784-lsx-into-64-72-gm-body.html
I am not notching the frame, running ac is not a priority now...
If you want to run ac there are two vendors, one of which requires running F-body accessories and relocates the compressor up top.
I am using GEN III truck accessories on the L92.
The original long winded conversion thread over at LS1tech http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/conversions-hybrids/772813-lq4-swap-into-68-gto-body-questions.html
Roadbuster
11-10-2008, 09:07 PM
Car is looking great! That is quite an impressive list of parts!
Thanks for the links - do you still need answers to those questions or is it for reference?
Jon
josht
11-11-2008, 12:36 PM
Jon
It is a bit of both, trying to be helpful and track which issues I am working on.
I still can not find a reasonably price pair of 68 inner grills, I have a while before I need to make a decision.
Not sure on the glass, OPGI now offers 69 window glass with the track, it might fit the 68 manual regulators.
I still can not decide on the rims, so the GTO might get soft 8's.
Hopefully the engine mount issue get resolved soon, in the next couple of weeks. Might have to order new polyurethane big block mounts and shorter bolts.
Car is looking great! That is quite an impressive list of parts!
Thanks for the links - do you still need answers to those questions or is it for reference?
Jon
josht
02-08-2009, 10:52 AM
Well I finally have the right combination of engine mounts and stands. I plan on getting the Edelbrock engine mounts and Timing cover along with the Katech tensioner. That should get the engine setup for another attempt to get in place.
The A1 rod bolts, ARP main bolts and head studs, the new oil pump, C5-R timing chain and new flex plate need to be installed but can be done after the engine goes in for the last time.
The accessories were Gen III truck: water pump, power steering pump, alt and tensioners. No AC with the Speartech relocation bracket and Katech tensioner.
As of 2012: SLP Camaro Underdrive pulley LS1 water pump with spacers, Gen III truck power steering pump, alt, Speartech relocation bracket, Katech tensioner and AC with the Kwik performance brackets.
I am sure that other items will need to be addressed before i get the engine to sit correctly in the frame.
josht
12-24-2011, 03:38 PM
Here is an update of sorts, The GTO was finally put back as a roller several months ago.
The plan is to get it painted by June or July of 2012. A lot has to happen before then, all good intentions aside:
The engine work has been completed, bolts, cam, Edelbrock timing cover, oil pump, timing chain, LS3 heads, LS3 Intake with 90mm TB (needs to be ported).
The drive accessories have changed since 2009; new Camaro/truck under drive pulley, Ls1 water pump with spacers, AC with bracket, Kateck tensioner.
The frame still needs to be media blasted and coated with POR-15, no major changes in suspension components, ride height is well, waiting for me to purchase the rims and tires.
The only major body work left is installing the vent delete kit, the car needs to sanded again since it has been sitting for so long.
I have most of the fuel and brake components except for the fuel tank, flex lines, assorted bolts to mount the C5 calipers to the ATS spindles. I would like the new vapor worx? unit but not sure if the car is ever gonna auto-x...
I am still working on the body mounts as I have the originals (completely gone) the ones from OPGI and the Energy Suspension stuff. The plan is to use the Energy Suspension ones with the original or OPGI sleeves and possible new hardware from Ames Performance.
I have tossed way too many thoughts around on the rims and still don't have something I can afford and like. I would like something in the shade of gray close to the car's color or a Rally II reinterpretation. I know with rims it is not place to cheap out, but the trans computer would have to be reprogrammed in order to use anything but 18x8 out back.
The car still has a long while to go. It might be back together again and painted, POR-15 done, with the "new" rims and tires before the end of next year. At this rate the interior might be on the to do list in 2013, after I figure out all the electrical issues and get the hidden headlights working again.
Feel free to comment, no new pictures as of yet.
agto8u
12-25-2011, 02:40 PM
coming along nicely. keep up the good work. I plan on using an electric actuator to replace the archaic vacuum operated hidden headlight system.
josht
09-17-2013, 01:58 PM
The car and frame are going to be finally separated in the next month, frame is going to media blasted and painted with POR-15. I need to use the Energy Suspension body mounts as the OPGI set is not complete with the OPGI sleeves and hardware. The plan is is to coat with Lizard Skin products on the inside and use DP90 on the bottom, for the trunk tintable U-Pol Raptor Truck Bed Liner Kit. I would like to use grey/black for the two colors in the trunk since I changed so much on the car already. Once the car is back on the frame, it should be possible to get the rear brake brackets ordered from Kore3.
I have no clue at this point on "rims" the 6L80e is programmed for 18x8 on the rear, I guess I should I gone with 18x9 or 18x10. The bold pattern "should" be 120mmx5 for the front and rear. I have a bad feeling that the rear bolt pattern is going to be 4.75x5 since the studs were 7/16" not M12 as ordered. Tires were originally Toyo T1R now I am leaning towards the BFG Rival at least for the rear tires.
The car needs to sanded again since it has been sitting for so long. Still debating on the paint color: Cyber Gray Metallic (not deep enough), Ashen Grey or the "new" Tungsten. I might put this up for a poll to see what peoples opinions are. The Summit weld-up cross member has been tossed for a American Power Train cross member, so far it is a huge weight savings and easier to bolt to the 6L80e.
I have most of the fuel and brake components except for the fuel tank, flex lines, assorted bolts to mount the C5 calipers to the ATS spindles.
The exhaust system I need header back since I have the discontinued Edelbrock headers: 3" Pypes Performance Exhaust SGA13 No-Muffler Exhaust System or the Pypes 3” Crossmember-back System w / X change NO MUFF SGA14
The cost difference is not that much, it is cheaper to buy with the mufflers but I want to get Dynomax Super Turbo Mufflers unless they are no longer recommended.
The Vent delete kit will be installed, the 2nd gen mirrors fitted. The axles will get the ARP M12 studs, no more of the 7/16" in the rear and M12 up front.
I am sure I will have a a long expensive shopping list at Ames Performance: new inner grills, hidden headlight electric kit, most of the interior, corner lenses, tail light lenses, led conversion kit
I am have a list of stuff to get from MCB: The 68 GTO Classic Thunder Road Blank Panel Black, sorry but I don't like the three gauge look. I understand that the six gauge is more "Chevy" aka Chevelle but I will be using custom Auto Meter or other gauges (blue pointers, full sweep), white with black text, the fuel tank and some other stuff.
I need bolts for the starter and TB spacer, longer bolts for the LS1 water pump.
The interior will be black (original color), I want to do sliding seats with five point harness, preferably with a gray accent.
Feel free to comment, no new pictures as of yet.
josht
03-07-2014, 03:38 PM
Engine - starter bolts, the GM LS "Pontiac" valve covers with coil brackets and relocation harness.
Exhaust - I have the Pypes Performance Exhaust SGA13R - Pypes Race Pro Dual Exhaust System, I still need to order the 3" TO DUAL 3.25" Slip-fit Stainless Exhaust Splitters EVT26
Gauges - NVU white with black text, blue pointers, blue leds
Glass - smoke/gray with antenna
Breaks - Dodge Sprint master cylinder to replace the 05 GTO 1.125" bore master cylinder.
Body - 4 gallons of Lizard Skin Sound Control and 4 gallons of Ceramic Insulation.
I need to re-visit the break situation and get the brackets measured out.
Bonehead
03-07-2014, 04:16 PM
Looks like you're on the same time frame I'm on with my project. :( Love the 68-69 GTOs. Such a bitchin body style and classic GM muscle car looks. Good luck with the rest!
josht
12-24-2014, 09:49 AM
The body is finally off the chassis, ten years latter.
The good:
- the chassis is in decent shape, minimal surface rust at the body bushing locations.
- expected disassemble, media blasting and coating with por-15.
The bad:
- about 10 small pin holes in the floor, more labor hours, better then requiring a patch panel.
- The rear package tray acquired two extra holes for speakers, requiring a patch or panel to be made.
The Ugly:
- the body needs to be sanded again, re-primed and sanded.
I need to track down the BMR suspension braces.
Figured out that I have the 5 bow headliner but I need the spacing to order one from Ames.
parts:
most of the exhaust has been ordered and delivered, debating on electric cut outs.
most items need to relocate the coils have been purchased and delivered. I am using the GM LS "Pontiac" valve covers with the black lettering, I wish that the lettering was blue but for the price I can not be that picky.
Need to put in a order from Ames for GTO parts and to order GM parts and assorted items.
Debating on the steering column, rebuild the 68 or get a rebuilt 69, getting quotes in the next two weeks.
got the Dash insert for the NVU custom gauges and the Nick's Vapor Works fuel tank.
try and update the flicker account with the pictures.
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