need advice

[1BADRS]

Hey guys. I have been having a booger of a bear on getting my roof skin to quarters to match in the thick pillar area.
I have been over these areas no less then about 10 times only finding myself coming up too shallow each time to paint.
Besides not really knowing what the hell I am doing wrong,
can someone give me advise to what types of tools to use in this difficult area of the car. Its where all four corners meet and of course the area is not flat. I have used a rubber sanding block for the most part and done both wet and dry sanding using anywhere from 220 to 400 grit. Bout the time I think I have it done, I find a low spot that can be seen but only felt. If I try to use glaze putty in the shallow areas, they tend to crack and not bond to the car very well. I find myself sanding the areas over and over and over again, only to come up too short. If I fill the entire area again with bondo but the time I feel I got a goot smooth transition across the panel, by the time I get to my final wet sanding the dam thing comes up to low again. The passenger side is coming up a lot nicer than the driver area. I wish the dam body shop would have filled these weld areas with lead as im sure they would be a lot better than I am trying to accomplish. Any advise at all more than welcome. I need to get these two areas done so I can move on to something else that needs work. I am starting to lose patience, and thats what will keep me from doing it right I suppose each time.

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[1BADRS]

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[dhutton]

I'm no expert but I think you need to put the filler over a wider area and use a guide coat when you are sanding. You should also be using a long block when you sand. 3M Durablocks work well.

You should be using a guide coat when you block the car. The 3M dry guide coat works well.

What are you sanding with and what grit are you using?


Don

[1BADRS]

Might try this:
http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?itemID=14773&itemType=PRODUCT

[toxicz28]

Remember to try to keep your heat as low as possible with the lead free. It needs a higher temperature to become "plastic". The lead solder takes less than 450*.

[dhutton]

I don't think your problem has anything to do with filler versus solder. Once you fill it with solder you will be back where you started trying to smooth it with filler. That's assuming you don't warp it trying to flow that lead free solder.

Don

[mikey]

I would stay away from the solder if you don't have alot of experience. Fill it with all-metal then finish it off with body filler. Use a flexible long block to sand it with. A rigid block won't follow the contours very well. I would use at least a 12-18 " block. The longer the better within reason of what you can work the area with. I personally like a hutchins pf16 or a dura-block. Have a look here most paint stores are carrying thesehttp://www.dura-block.com I have the 7 piece set plus the 2 long ones I keep one at work and the other at home.