Big Block Olds for the '68

[68cutlass]

I had to post some images of my engine. Specs are:

1971 455, bored .060 over
9.1:1 compression
forged TRW pistons
Engle EP 20/22 H cam
ported G heads (over 25 hours in the heads)
Crane rockers
Edelbrock 750 Performer carb
Edelbrock Performer intake
ProComp HEI
Doug Thorley ceramic coated headers (if they ever are shipped!)

Going in my '68 Cutlass. Should be a monster off-idle with all of the torque. I feel like a proud new parent!

-Mark

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/09/scan00041-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/09/scan00021-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/09/scan000311-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/09/scan00012-1.jpg

[Mr Nick]

Awesome, congrats!

Question... why do you have the distributor cranked so far around? Usually the electrical connections point to about "3:00"

[orbit]

Awesome, congrats!

Question... why do you have the distributor cranked so far around? Usually the electrical connections point to about "3:00"

Funny! I was thinking the same thing but its not in the car yet so I assume that it'll be sorted when in and running.

Very cool! I literally just got my '68 Cutlass running! I did an intake, cam, double roller chain and 4bbl swap! I'm not to great at setting the timing on the distributor :hand: so it was a bit of a hassle....:hammer:

But I think I got it! Lets see some pics of the car?!?

[jackfrost]

awesome... any dyno numbers or estimates?

[68cutlass]

With stock heads it should make approx. 400 HP and 460 ft. lbs. of torque. The heads really are a limiting factor with the Olds. With the amount of work done to them, I'm hoping for closer to 425 to 450 HP, and 500 ft. lbs. of torque. The best part is that it makes power off-idle to 5500 RPM, which is what you want in a street motor.

Why the distributor seems cocked to a side, I don't know, I didn't even notice that before. I'm picking the motor up in a few weeks. I'll ask my engine builder.

Currently the car is in various pieces around my garage, so I attached a pic of what it looked like before I started the project. It was originally from Indiana and the salt they use in the winters ruined the frame, so I prepped a "new' frame for it. I have my front suspension done (ATS spindles, SPC UCA's, Varishocks, Eibachs) and my C6 front brakes, but I got sidetracked when I came across this engine. This is the biggest part of the project I have to tackle before body & paint, and the hardest to track down parts for, so I figured I'd better get it done when the opportunity presented itself.

-Mark

[orbit]

I would assume the disributor was just set in place. It should be fairly easy to set correctly.

I didn't want to get into the heads on mine so I left those stock. Only to find out a local guy is willing to go through them for cheap...:hammer:

What are you going to do with the lower fenders? I have the same problem with mine. I think you can buy new patch panels.

Please ditch those wheels! LOL:rolleyes:

[gearheads78]

Sweet! Congrats!! I am in process of collecting parts for a similar motor. So far have F block, mild ported E'brocks, Hartland Sharp rockers and a 4 speed crank.

[68cutlass]

The engine fired on the first try, but we haven't broken it in on the run stand yet. Why the distributor looks cocked sideways I'll figure out when I get a chance to see it in person.

I'm going to have to buy patch panels for the fenders & probably new quarter panels when I get into the body work. They're available through Year One, Original Parts Group, and so on. dickmillerracing.com has them in fiberglass but I don't want to go that route if I don't have to.

You don't like my Cragar Protechs? Those were the wheel in 1985 when I first got the car when I turned 16! Seriously though, I'm probably going to have Intro build me a set of either 5-stars or Vistas to clear my brakes.

-Mark

[68cutlass]

Gearhead,

The main reason I jumped at building this motor was it had a manual crank and flywheel. I was slowly collecting engine parts & had a standard block already, but I really wanted to switch the car over to being a manual. I didn't want to mess with drilling out the crank for the pilot bearing. I'll be putting a TKO 600 behind this. It should be a lot of fun. You've been on this board for quite a while, how's your project going?

-Mark

[gearheads78]

Gearhead,

I'll be putting a TKO 600 behind this. It should be a lot of fun. You've been on this board for quite a while, how's your project going?

-Mark

Same thing I am doing.

Its going slow lately but picking up steam. Link to the build is in my signature. I try to update it as often as i can.

[68cutlass]

Your build looks really nice. I love the "Oldsmobile" calipers. What did you have to do to get the TKO to match up with the Olds?

-Mark

[gearheads78]

Thanks.... Nothing to make it work. Its just like bolting a 4 speed in as far as bolting to the belhousing. I watched for about 3 months and got a used Lakewood scatter shield listed for a Pontiac (same as Olds) You do have to trim the scatter shield on the drivers side to clear the clutch rod if you use mechanical linkage in an Olds. You can see my thread to see pics of what I am talking about. If you have any questions just let me know.

[68cutlass]

Good to know. I haven't purchased any of the transmission components yet. Thanks.


With the Performer manifold the vacuum advance module doesn't clear. Plus its a HEI instead of a stock distributor, so its significantly bigger. I'll find out if its a clearance issue with the firewall when I get to that point.


-Mark

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/09/scan000511-1.jpg