The Under $30k Club

[Jim Nilsen]

I was talking to a guy about this thread, and he said my car must have more than 30K into it. I laughed and said "Offer me 30K right now and it's yours!"

I guess that's the bottom line, right?

You got that right Scott!!!!
In your case at that price all of your labor would be " Scott Free":lol:

I could sell my car for the same and would just be out years of planning,engineering, and all together about 4 to 5 thousand hours of hard LEARNED labor. I didn't start out knowing as much as I know now and the next car would go so much faster that it would make it all look like I was standing still on the one I have as long as the $$$ didn't stop me like it always has.

When will some people give value to labor?

A lot of great cars here for the $$$$$$

[mpozzi]

My car qualifies ...

Cheers,
Mary Pozzi

[Taman]

Check the link below on my TA. I am now getting a G suspension. This would add another $7500 to the cost of my TA. If I included all the freebees I have received, I could still build my TA for around $30k.

[2ndgenhunter]

I was talking to a guy about this thread, and he said my car must have more than 30K into it. I laughed and said "Offer me 30K right now and it's yours!"


Scott,
I would be real careful with a statement like that! I love your wagon and I got plenty of bonus points on my credit card for a free plane ticket.LOL

[gringo]

I bought the car and then fixed everything in the suspension and drivetrain plus some interior goodies and gets the job done.

[DYNODANNY]

Well I'll be posting soon. Right now I have about 8g's including the car. 66 Chevelle with a full roller 350, th400 maunal valve body, posi 4.11 rear end, tubular arms in the front and edelbroock arms in the rear, weld wheels slicks. and I still need to do the swat to pro-touring. Maybe another 5g's. Damm.

[Taman]

Cost can add up real quick. Especially if you don't do the work yourself.

[LeighP]

I have less than 5 grand in my car.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

now that is one fine looking car.....I always thought those later models were a really nice design...you never see them here in Australia.

[LeighP]

I figure my budget on my 71 Firebird build will be around the $30K mark....it does cost more to build a car like this here in Australia than it would if I lived in the US...thats just the way it is.
I think the trick to a budget car is to improve what the car came with, rather than being influenced by high dollar cars and having to front more money for the latest hi-tech stuff. When my car is finished, it'll be way ahead of what they were originally in handling and comfort and power....but it won't have the eye candy appeal of the super trick stuff that costs the big bucks.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
here I've just refitted the subframe...solid alloy mounts, subframe connectors, G-Braces should stiffen it up. Stock control arms will have tall upper ball joints, offset forged upper control arm shafts and steel greasable bushes, lower control arms will have alloy/delrin greasable bushes......its all about working with what you've got to get the most out of it.

[John Wright]

This hobby is for carving corners, not cutting them!
siggy material right there.:smoke:

[MonzaRacer]

who said being frugal and pinching pennys is cutting corners. A $100k PT car may never get driven, beg borrow and swap for everything and build same car for $30k and you will want to beat on it to see if its going to live and run.
Run what ya brung, hope ya brung enough and if it breaks beg borrow and swap for more till it doesnt break of goes faster.
going fast on a(read :small) budget is the best way. Credit card racers tend to drift away or get bored, the busted knuckles and late night deals with your buddy after he gets some spare parts and your figure out they will work better, and before he really knows what he has,,,hehe, well those deals and part usually make the first drive better.

[MattG]

I love this thread.

I'm gonna jump on this wagon and call my next build project "Previously Owned".

After the 'Vert sells, I'm going to set the budget at 30k and try to make every part something that is used. It will be Ls based 1st Gen Camaro and do all of the work myself (I hope).

Wish me luck!!!

[joe440]

heres my under 30k. As normal its still a work in progress, always changing little things to make it better. oil pan and exhaust is getting changed in the very near future.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/03/dart0013-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/03/dart0033-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/03/dart0023-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/08/dart0063-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/03/dart0043-1.jpg

[black73vette]

Project Sinister (73 vette) should be completed well under the 30k mark, Im shooting for under the 20k mark but that might be tough and I am including purchase price. I am also doing ALL the work myself so thats a huge savings there.

[Ron S]

Can't beleive I never posted here, just went through the whole thread. There are some really cool PT cars here that were built for under 30k.Its amazing how many high end really well performing machines there are.

Mines still floating under 23K, but if you add up all hours, even at $5 an hour, I don't qualify.

There is just something cool about building on the cheap, especially if the car is competitive.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/08/408514066_RN8P8L-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/08/401617109_rFNoEL-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/08/956668815_MQHcBL-1.jpg

[Kevin Campbell]

I'll chime in here 'cause I'm really cheap, and this thread fits me to a tee (even though its 2 years old). I can't see me spending big $$$ rebuilding a car, but really enjoy the high quality builds when I do see them.
Before (after starting it, and then sitting for 8 years)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/08/IMGP0759-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/08/IMGP0760-1.jpg

After:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/08/IMGP0869_edited1-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/08/IMGP0867-1.jpg






I did add up receipts. Under $16000 start to finish. Not alot of high tech stuff, but still fun.

[Thumpin'66]

I would have been under the 30k mark if I didn't pay way too much for my 66 SS project car to start with. The SS models are stupid expensive and I had a brief moment where the wife was looking the other way so 12k promptly went from savings into the purchase of the car. In hindsight I should have bought a bare shell and title because that is all I ended up using off the 12k Chevelle. I pulled the blown small block, trans and differential out of my 85 Monte (13 year long project that I did all the work on myself). I think I will hit the 50k mark by the time I see the car fully completed but I will enjoy driving it next year in primer and you have to realize that the 50k will have been spent over a period of 15years or more. I consider myself an average joe who has a vision and commitment to his hobby. Just because someone has a lot of money into their car doesn't mean that they make big money or are independently wealthy. I have had to be extremely patient due to my lack of expendable income but I would rather save up for a year to buy the part I want than do it over later. I have been working my tail off as an auto parts sales guy to support my three daughters while I am trying to build my dream car. I enjoy my thousands of hours of research and participation in the gearhead community as much as I do actually getting to buy another piece of the puzzle that will complete my Chevelle. When it is rolling again it will be on long road trips, drag raced, shown, lapped at the local road course and is a part of my being. I had plenty of what I considered bad ass cars growing up that I had less than 5k into but I never had nice paint or trick suspension. It shure is cool to take something to the next level if you can. The next level for some can be building a 10k car versus a 5k car. I relate it to drag racing the 1/4 mile and progressively making your car quicker. Running 13 seconds in the 1/4 was hella fun for me and scraping up the bux and busting my knuckles to get a little faster each year to the 12, 11 and finally 10 second brackets for me was an exciting journey. I guess it just bugs me when people look at someone's car at surface level and label them as a rich guy or poor man when the young guy driving the $500 project car is having the time of his life and may be the next Chip Foose.

Sorry, my rant is over..
Her is a shot of my car as it sits. I hope to pillage my 401k next week and purchase my front suspension parts so I can get her back on all fours. I really can't imagine what it would cost to build my car if I didn't do my own mechanical work.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gifhttps://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

[Clean Cut Creations]

I really can't imagine what it would cost to build my car if I didn't do my own mechanical work.



This is the most important statement in this whole thread.....
If ya got ten years+ and the skill to do it, ANY vehicle can be restored/customized for under $30 Gs.

I guess NO ONE counts labor twards a vehicle build price unless they pay someone else to build it.....

[brownz]

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/08/untitled-1.jpg


just about 4k with the cost of the car. everything steering suspension and brakes are new. all moog front end with agr billet gear box, rear hotckis spring, two in drop spindle disc brakes, mild build trans, and just a few oother goodies, just something to have fun with till my camaro is done.

[Scott Parkhurst]

OK- I'm out. I just dropped another 5K into the engine rebuild and that puts me just over 30K.

So, it was less than 30K to build...but the rebuild pushed me over. Does that count or not? LOL!!

[GrabberGT]

OK- I'm out. I just dropped another 5K into the engine rebuild and that puts me just over 30K.

So, it was less than 30K to build...but the rebuild pushed me over. Does that count or not? LOL!!

Sounds like a maintenance cost to me.

[Tucks69]

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/08/untitled-1.jpg


just about 4k with the cost of the car. everything steering suspension and brakes are new. all moog front end with agr billet gear box, rear hotckis spring, two in drop spindle disc brakes, mild build trans, and just a few oother goodies, just something to have fun with till my camaro is done.

I have a temporary car also. C5 brakes, iroc steering, hotchkis springs and sway bar. I have had a great time with it!!
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/12/DSCN0475-1.jpg

[singer69]

Wow this is a great thread! I can dream of the dream pro touring car but certainly can't afford it. I'm building my 69 Pontiac Lemans convertible to the best of my ability and budget and the way I want to. Bought it a few years ago and it was in decent shape rust wise but still pretty bad. I've rebuilt the 350 motor which was worked, rebuilt the trans, put low budget disc brakes all around, built all custom interior, just got some sweet TSW BMW wheels on ebay for $550 and can't wait to get them on, put some GTO parts on, painted satin black all over. Next will be some suspension work and just enjoy the ride. Once again thanks for all the inspiration here on this thread. Keep up the great work.

[Damn True]

I know that I’m way under 30k! I got my Camaro for $500.00 and it was running with the original 327 and a 350 turbo. Don’t think it was nice, it was junk but drivable. My dad n myself showed up with an air compressor, gas, brake fluid and used the guys hose to put water in the radiator. 15 mins later, waved "adios' to the guy! 6 months later got it all put together and drove it for about 1 year without paint, then saved enough to paint her. So, 3 months later and 5k she was painted. While she was getting painted I found a 4 bolt main 350 in my dad's yard (it was used as a planter by my mom) NO JOKE ! I finished the engine in time to help the body shop to install it. about 2 years later I got the wheels n tires. Besides that I did all of the work myself, saving $$$ on labor alone! Now, my son has started wrenching alongside me, what a great life experience !

Got any photos of the completed air dam?

[DartorDemon]

under 30k is high rolling for me. I'm hoping to stay in the under 15k crowd.

[rfalker1]

Well I don't fit this category, but at the same time I am nowhere near the 100 grand mark....

[johnny68]

im going to have under 30 in the nova hell ive only got 25 in the f100 and its a cover car just go with the basics no fancy motor put the money where it counts K.I.S.S. KEEP IT SIMPLE SILLY
JOHN

[GSDave]

10g including purchase, 40k mile 72 skylark original paint, interior, etc, CPP springs and shocks 2" on all corners, coy wheels, 17 front 18 rears, 2 1/2 mandrel exhaust, recharged ac, ice cold. Changed the oil. https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/11/420-1.jpg

[jwdominick]

Im pretty close to the 30k mark, If I re added I'm probably a bit over. pics can be seen in my newb thread. good luck, do as much as possible yourself, labor adds up quick!

[Vicinity]

I'm coming in at under 15, I think it's 12.7k right now. Can't wait to drop it off jack stands and drive it this weekend!

[trapin]

I wish I still had my website up, it was pretty much dedicated to this movement.

Lots of ways to build a legitimate Pro-Touring car without breaking the bank on certain parts. For instance on my car I choose (or at least my wallet did) for forego the fancy tubular control arms and instead fortified the stock ones with billet cross shafts from Global West, and Del-a-lum bushings. The geometry was corrected with ATS/AFX Spindles, new ball joints, new tie rods, Helwig 1" front sway bar, Hotchkiss 2" Drop springs, Koni adjustable shocks. Most of that stuff came in a package and saved me a ton of money. In the rear I just did DS&E 3" drop springs and Bilstien Shocks. WAY cheaper than doing an aftermarket front and rear clip.

And I doubt I would be far behind the competition if I ever get this thing on a road course.

[DarkBuddha]

From 2 years ago...

And I'm under $5k with the XR4TI including the cost of the car, and might only spend another $2k-$3k to get it where I want it.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
As it sits today, with more performance mods, a different suspension setup, etc., I'm still under $7500 (including things like tires and maintenance stuff since 2006). A pic from this weekend:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

[dodge29]

65 Dart 1k, 950.00 in shipping from Califonia to NC and then i started to loose count, somewhere around 18k at the moment, but that doesnt include a crap load of parts that were already sitting on the shelf, including an r3 race block, new Ford 9 inch grand national complete rear, tons of spare parts, new Indy x heads, intakes, differentials, gold track, turbos, and God knows what else....as much as I like to be part of this club, i fear i will bust in the low 50s by the time this evil thing im building sees the street and Ely, Nevada.....

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

[Damn True]

From 2 years ago...

As it sits today, with more performance mods, a different suspension setup, etc., I'm still under $7500 (including things like tires and maintenance stuff since 2006). A pic from this weekend:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

IMO you need a batch of Sierra Cosworth badges to replace the xr4ti stuff with.

[DarkBuddha]

IMO you need a batch of Sierra Cosworth badges to replace the xr4ti stuff with.
I sorta have... all the actual "Merkur" emblems have already been replaced with euro Ford emblems (grille, hatch, and steering wheel), but I couldn't quite bring myself to put an actual Sierra RS Cosworth badge on the hatch. Instead, as a nod to it being the XR4 version of the chassis, but inspired by the RS Cosworth, I created a custom vinyl sticker in the same style (and font) as the original '86 Sierra RS Cosworth stickers:


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://img520.imageshack.us/i/img3270smallkt5.jpg/) https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://img353.imageshack.us/i/img3278smallau3.jpg/)

[kst8engineer]

My Chevelle would definitely fall into this category. It's in the ballpark of $12k total investment right now with the LS1/T56 and 4-wheel disc brake conversion, but will probably be in the $15k range after the body and paint are done (again). I don't have any good pics yet with the new wheels, but here's what it looked like with the old ones.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/12/Chevelle_airstrip_26-1.jpg

Here's a link to the build thread: http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/conversions-hybrids/1047484-kst8engineer-71-chevelle-ls1-t56-build-thread.html

[showa]

"thing im building sees the street and Ely, Nevada....."

Ely??? Better bring snow tires too......

[69projectKAOS]

69 camaro complete car in 2002---$2000
paint and body work-----$1000
3 piece rims w/toyo tires-------$500
seats and misc interior pieces----$350
engine rebuilt-------$2500
ls1 brake conversion-----$300
Total so far........$6650 and its worth every PENNY!!!!!!
Being a college student and working as much as possible i was still always strapped for cash ,so i looked for deals where ever i went. haha and i always stepped in crap like my dad says! :headbang:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/11/5208160306_1a774191a3_b-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/11/5208162106_cf8c849433_b-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/11/5207564247_c8c36f8f57_b-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/11/5207565691_60f95e91f4_b-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/11/5207566527_a73f6b9232_b-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/11/5207567575_6be1c5acfd_b-1.jpg

[shortrack]

cool ride dude......you should be proud!

[69projectKAOS]

thanks!.. everywhere i go i get thumbs up from people, so i guess that means i did something right lol.-Dom

[BuddyP]

I was initially in the hopes of not going over the $30k mark. However I can become too much of a "perfectionist" at times which does not always help the pocket book. I am bumping the $25k mark right now and the body is still on a rotisseirie. I could've saved a good chunk of sum by not doing mini tubs, a 4-link, subframe connectors and 4 point cage. But these are things that involve tearing up or welding to the body and I didn't want to come back in the future after the car was finished and hack into it again. So to do it right the first time around I spent the $$ for these up front so they were done and I wouldn't have regrets down the road.

But I did use my stock front clip, I used the stock recirculating ball steering and stock control arms. I updated my front suspension with 550# drop springs, new bilstein shocks, hotckis swaybar, G-mod and Del-a-lum bushings.

I have a complete rear end, rear suspension, 85% of a motor, tranny, complete front clip and body that just needs final smoothing and paint. So while it's in peices I am getting closer. But still need harness, PCM, fuel rails, brake and fuel lines, Gas tank, exhaust, paint and full interior... that's more than $5k worth of stuff.

More pic of my project are at the link in my sig...

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

[shortrack]

thanks!.. everywhere i go i get thumbs up from people, so i guess that means i did something right lol.-Dom

hey what do your friends drive?.....do they get it?....do the hotties at the clubs have a clue??

[67MAL]

I just found this thread, I had been calling my build "Econo Touring"
I don't get to spend a lot of time on here, I think this is probably my first post.
There are a lot of great looking cars in this thread.
Here's mine, 8 years off and on in the build. Now that I've had a taste of AutoXing
I want to upgrade the suspension, brakes, and driveline. As it is now less than 25K.
5.3/4L60e
Elcomino "boxed" frame
SPC uppers
600lb Stock Car Products ft. coils w/adj. shims
tall ball joints
2nd gen F-body ft. sway bar
"LS1" brakes
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/12/RTTH2010-1.jpg

[singer69]

Just put TSW BMW wheels I got for a song on EBay on today along with Hubcentric 1 inch spacers today. I did some quick calculations on whats been spent so far.
Just about everything bought on Ebay
1969 Lemans Convertible 350 $3400
Radiator $140
GTO wing $150
GTO hood tach $140
MRC seats $370
Kids racing seats $$240
5 point harnesses $$110
Carpet $120
Arm rests and pads $70
Flame steering wheel $200
4wheel disc brake kit $800
TSW Staggered 18 inch wheels and tires $550
Edlebrock carb $400
exhaust $500
stereo and speakers $250
fan shroud $50
battery $80
convertible boot cover $75
1 inch hubcentric spacers $300
Misc: satin black spray paint, undercoating, engine paint, fuses, rewiring, misc little stuff, band aids, advil, etc etc $250
TOTAL:$8,195 so far. I've saved a lot by doing most of work myself and with friends help. This spring I plan to spend around $2500 on suspension(can't afford much more) and hopefully enjoy the summer. Then next winter maybe get a stronger rebuilt engine and trans. But for now just really enjoying my beast.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

[Bryce]

Nice ride andy, Just lower it a little bit. Thats really cheap to do.

[skooli]

I've got a little under $25000 in my fastback. Some people might argue that being a leaf spring car it's not a legit pro touring car, but it's fun to throw into turns and handles better than a stock 68 Mustang. It's got a modern hyd/roller 351w making about 350hp, a Tremec TKO 5 speed, and disc brakes. Some day I might go with a more performance oriented suspension and a mod motor, but for now it's a great budget hot rod.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/12/fb2-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/12/fb1-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/12/0038003R104018A-1.jpg

[shortrack]

Dont worry about the leafs....

[TheJDMan]

I will jump in here and show some pics of my 68 Camaro taken in the early 80's when it was in drag racing trim. I purchased the car in 1973 (I'm the second owner), drove it on the street for 3 years then bracket raced it for five or six years. It has spent the past 25+ years setting in my garage as I completely lost interest in it but never enough to consider selling it. As I am approaching retirement, I have started spending more and more time on the internet getting ideas for it's next life. When I ran across a video of Big Red in the Silver State Challenge, I was hooked and decided it will be a Pro-Touring ride when it is done. Now I don't know how to begin to estimate how much I have in this car over the past 37 years but it is easily less then 10k. That leaves me a lot of wiggle room for Pro-Touring style suspension upgrades. I'm relieved to find this thread which gives me a lot of inspiration that I don't have to spend 6 figures to build a killer Pro-Touring car. A lot of my drag parts will be recycled. For example the pro-shifted ST-10 has already been rebuilt with all new bearings, gears, sliders and brass. Next project will probably be a re-cam of the drag motor, a four bolt main 350 w/202 heads, with upgraded fuel and ignition systems. After that I will be re-gearing the 12bolt from 4.88 to 3.73 or 3.50 ring and pinion. While the rear end is out I think I will install a set of the DSE Mini-tubs and perhaps the entire DSE rear mini-tub suspension kit.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/12/Camaro5-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/12/Camaro4-1.jpg

[musclecarmatt]

69 camaro complete car in 2002---$2000
paint and body work-----$1000
3 piece rims w/toyo tires-------$500
seats and misc interior pieces----$350
engine rebuilt-------$2500
ls1 brake conversion-----$300
Total so far........$6650 and its worth every PENNY!!!!!!
Being a college student and working as much as possible i was still always strapped for cash ,so i looked for deals where ever i went. haha and i always stepped in crap like my dad says! :headbang:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/11/5208160306_1a774191a3_b-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/11/5208162106_cf8c849433_b-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/11/5207564247_c8c36f8f57_b-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/11/5207565691_60f95e91f4_b-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/11/5207566527_a73f6b9232_b-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/11/5207567575_6be1c5acfd_b-1.jpg

sweet ride man....im 24 also.....i know how cash is.....good job!

[DarkBuddha]

I'm sub $20k right now with my Mustang, but the car ain't done yet. However that does include $5k in paint and body, $2k for the cost of the car with the motor that's in it, $2k in the suspension & wheels. It probably needs another $10k to be where I'd like it and that will still keep me under the $30k mark.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
I'm still making progress with this car. Currently I'm in the midst of installing a 408w stroker. I just did the math including everything that will be on the car and the total is still sub-$20k, even with the new motor. And still, even if I put another $12k in the car like I'd like to, I'll still be under $30k. Gotta be honest though... $30k seems a small fortune to me; can't imagine the kinda coin some folks have their builds.

BTW...

From 2 years ago...

As it sits today, with more performance mods, a different suspension setup, etc., I'm still under $7500 (including things like tires and maintenance stuff since 2006). A pic from this weekend:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

Still under $7500, but a more recent pic:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

[groho]

is that $30K cap with or without paint? Just asking. . . I completely fall into this catagory. 5 years later my 66 mustang is finally in paint, and yes, its a leaf car with panhard bar. I'm spending more on the paint then I've spent on the trac-loc, tranny, suspension, brakes put together. I admire this forum for the hands-on and ideas that have helped me through this effort. Do I want a four-link TCP setup with a currie 9", heck ya! Can I afford one, heck no!

And KUDO's to Matt on that perty 69 camaro. It takes allot for a young kid to put that much heart and sweat into building a georgous car like that. APPLAUSE!

[srh3trinity]

I may get there without paint, but no chance with paint/body added to the budget.

[71maroesteban]

I'm at 11k into mine 3k for the car 2k for body and engine work 4k In Random parts new radiator, suspension etc and 1k for the ls3 and 1k for the 4l80e I have for it. All the body work on the car is going to be done for free by my gfs step dad who owned a shop so painted and Ls engine in, I'm looking at under 15k for the whole build!

[Barrrf]

I can play too? I hope to be right around that mark when Im finished with all mechanical and interior stuff. As far as body goes..............well yeah. Probably have to just not ever worry about that.

[CampbellshotrodsAZ]

The Mustang in my thread (which is weeks behind), I'm in it about $18k total in parts, not including my labor. It will be done for the Goodguy's Del Mar show this weekend, God willing!

[garyfish340]

I was reading another thread, and a guy was bitching about how much money it cost to build, my brand choice, and how shoddy they were from the factory. I don't know how many people hold that sort of opinion, about one choice, or another, but it made no sense to me. Isn't the idea behind this forum, that we all have chose to - "build the better wheel." My car could have come to me, held together with pop rivets, and duct tape. It really makes no difference, because I intend to run through everything I ever hated about these mass produced pieces of chit, and address those issues. In my case I installed a tubular 4 link rear, and an aftermarket K member. I had to remove the interior to repair some floorboards, I might as well install a 4 point roll bar. I wanted to use a overdrive trans, which required massaging the transmission tunnel. Why not reinforce the firewall, and give the car a backbone ? Tubing isn't all that expensive. And while I'm at it the 1st trick in the age old book is unit body connectors. I should just tie everything from the center of the car to the rockers all together, yes ?.
Since a lot of the part I'm using, are the same parts the Ford guys are using, why is it assumed my brand cost more. I always build things with the idea of upgrading later.The worst part was waiting for a gen III hemi, and than just when I bought an engine, a week later I ended up picking up another for less than a grand. I don't think there is a brand that is junk once we put our imaginations to work. I look at the cars on the website, and I think, " I could do a bit of this, and a bit of that, and it inspires me to want to do things too. I don't have half the experience some of these guys do. All you have to do is read, and you can tell who opens their wallet, and acquires other peoples build, and who believes necessity is the mother of invention. I hoping to finish my project, and drive out to see some of you guys at shows, or competing in autox events. Thanks.

[dragonfly jones]

Well...... I would have been in this club if I would have left the car a lone, there really wasn't much wrong with it. Paid $25k for the car, and probably another $25k customizing it.

[70B5Cuda]

Any updates to be added?

[toofun]

So a couple of comments here on this UNDER 30K project thread. Looks like the last comment that was shown was from 2014 over 5 years ago. As anyone will tell you, that amount of time makes it inherently more difficult to acheive. Is it still doable? I think so but in order to do it, it comes down to a lot of planning and ALOT of luck. The biggest cash suck is definately body and paint. If you are lucky enough to find a rust free body with a decent paint job, you still will be paying a good amount of money when you are talking about camaros, chevelles, mustangs, novas. Other cars that are not as much mainstream or sought after will give you a fighting chance and if you still want that F body, then your best bet would be a FIREBIRD... those things get ZERO respect in my opinion and they are not that much different than the camaros. If you are handy and patient you can pick deals for great parts from Higher end builds that are looking to dump parts as a sacrifice for the ultimate ride.

Fun idea would love to see more up to date attempts. If you are lucky enough to score a car on the cheap with most of the work done, then it is acheivable.

Just my .02 cents.

TOOFUN

[Bugzilla]

I am under the $30k mark on my build, even after blowing up 1 engine. I have done 100% of the work myself though and I get pretty hefty discounts on just about everything. If I had my car professionally painted, I would be over the mark for sure.

[jimco84x]

I'm under $30k. Actually, I think I'm under $25k. Bought it with lots of work done and more to go. I do suspect that I won't be allowed to remain in the "Under 30 Club" once I redo the suspension and brakes though.162609

[mytmouz]

How about 3... I just sold this one about a month ago due to health reasons. This is it leaving on a trailer. I actually came in at just under $25,000, including purchase price. I was able to do this as i did 95 per cent of the work. Car is a 1967 Chevelle malibu, factory air reworked for R134, connected to a late model compressor, as the engine is a reworked 6.0 LS, with a cam and head swap, Hooker/Blackhart headers and exhaust, all stainless, a Legend LGT 700 5 speed trans, a fabricated 9 inch ford rear end, 2002 Camaro disc brakes all around, all UMI tubular front suspension, viking coil overs at all 4 corners, a mini tub and frame boxing job using materials I had on hand, including widening the tubs myself, $14 dollars total in doing that). Did the metal work myself, replacing the floor pans and trunk pan, the tail panel, repairing the sail panel, and lower rear part of the quarters. Had the wheels made to spec, and also has a full on stereo system with subs/amps, etc.


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2019/02/xsusvkYl-1.jpg (https://imgur.com/xsusvkY)

And this one I have around 18,000 in, which is way too much for a Chevy LUV truck, lol... Still have it, for sale locally, I am gonna lose my shirt on this one. Body off, frame blasted and painted, all new stock rebuilt suspension, Has a 9 inch ford rear, a 4L80e trans, an owner built 396 cubic inch pump gas small block. I have since this picture was taken added the bumpers and glass, and the interior, which has 65 mustang bucket seats, and a 68 camaro console with aftermarket console gauges. It is pretty much finished, just need to correct some gauge wiring.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2019/03/8Ah8kIWl-1.jpg (https://imgur.com/8Ah8kIW)

And lastly, Frankenstein, I have had this truck for over 20 years, I got it when my grandfather passed. It started out as a 1989 Nissan D21 Hardbody. It has a 1996 Vortec 350 CHevy, converted the tbi (by me), with a 700r trans and an 8.8 rear. Stock interior with Pathfinder bucket seats and a 2002 Chevy Blazer Console. I have lowered the rear since the pic, still needs paint, I ran out of health before I got to it. I have ten grand in it, and sadly, am looking for a new owner for it as well...


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2019/03/ZgKdljHl-1.jpg (https://imgur.com/8Ah8kIW)

[c4racer2]

My starter price was under $20K. But didn’t take long to push it above $30K. I’m long past that number.

[c4racer2]

I mean - I don’t know about you guys, but I am using those summit ALWAYS codes like they are going out of style. And that’s not for the big items just the odds and ends. Seems like endless list of odds and ends that keeps coming at me as I go too ! And I started with a pretty complete running car too.

[ilikeike]

When the thread started in 2008, that would be a pretty decent ride. Now a pretty basic driver,still nice but not like a $30k 2008 build.

What would that be now, a $50k car starting from scratch ?

mini tubs,wheels and a decent suspension setup could easily be half that $30k.

[c4racer2]

I'm thinking $40K is the new $30K !

[boss_hoss]

My car will be somewhere in the $16-18k range by the time I'm done. I think the important things for me to keep the cost down was not being brand loyal. You definitely don't have to have all big name parts to get in the game. My suspension has quality components but not necessarily from the same manufacturer and they work great together. Also scouring the sales forum craigslist and eBay will net you cheaper, lightly used parts that will keep the cost down. Finally for me the goal was to get it on the road and get the look I want and enjoy the car with the understanding that I will change and upgrade parts in the future. Even if you do make some concessions initially to keep cost down you can address it down the road once you're driving it.

162957

[ilikeike]

My car will be somewhere in the $16-18k range by the time I'm done. I think the important things for me to keep the cost down was not being brand loyal. You definitely don't have to have all big name parts to get in the game. My suspension has quality components but not necessarily from the same manufacturer and they work great together. Also scouring the sales forum craigslist and eBay will net you cheaper, lightly used parts that will keep the cost down. Finally for me the goal was to get it on the road and get the look I want and enjoy the car with the understanding that I will change and upgrade parts in the future. Even if you do make some concessions initially to keep cost down you can address it down the road once you're driving it.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]162957

That's a good looking Pontiac.
You must have gotten it for free to make it look so good under $16k :twothumbs

[boss_hoss]

That's a good looking Pontiac.
You must have gotten it for free to make it look so good under $16k :twothumbs

It wasnt free but cheap. I can Break down some of the areas where I think I saved the most

-Car $2200, ran but the drivetrain was shot. Very solid body though. Only needed some patches in the rear quarters. I also think it helps to start with something that isn't a Chevy or ford. Buick, Pontiac, Olds Mercury etc are always less expensive and have the same underpinnings. A comparable Malibu or chevelle would probably be $5-10k easy.
-Engine $600. Was looking for a cheap LS but found a guy who only built pontiac engines. I traded my blown up pontiac engine and $600 for a complete running Pontiac with accessories. still trying to figure out why I got such a good deal on that one. It runs like a top, no issues.
-Paint and body$6000. Did all the prep and tear down myself. Found a young local painter, who's building his business. It's not a show winning job but he used good product and it's going to be a driver for me so I feel better getting rock chips on a 6k paint job vs one for twice that much.
-Wheels and tires $1100. Foose wheels and mickey Thompson street comps. They were mockup wheels from a hot rod shop down in California. After the car was gone they didnt need them any more and needed the space. I'll defiantly upgrade down the line as they are pretty heavy and not the final style I'm looking for but I'll get my money back on those.
Lastly I saved a lot of nickels and dimes like I said by being an opportune shopper. My suspension has QA-1, UMI, Spohn, summit racing and bilstein components. Most were take off parts from the fourms or eBay which netted me some good savings.

I think the real catch is, until you sell the car the project is never complete. There's always something we're doing to our cars so who know ho much my car will cost in the end. But to get it on the road in a presentable driving condition that most people would say is finished that's what it took.

[badazz81z28]

It’s easy to stay under $30k if you keep basically a stock suspension with aftermarket upgrades. Doesn’t help when your base car starts out expensive ie a 1st Gen Camaro. It’s when you start going big the dollars add up. I have over $10k in my engine alone. People going LT4 are going to have $15k into it.

[Rolling_Thunder]

1968 Dodge Charger

Started with a pretty much rust free 1968 Charger in SoCal - originally equipped with a 318 / 904

Was a running / driving car when purchased in 2003 when I was in high school --- Went through a couple engine / transmission swaps over the years

stock 318, Magnum 360, 383, 440, 512 then settled on a 6.1L Hemi back when no one had really done the swap yet (2007)

Transmissions are similar, started with a 904, then a SB 727, then a BB727, then Tremec TKO600, and now a Viper T-56

Gears started at 2.76, then 3.55SG, and now a 3.91SG

4 wheels disc brakes from SSBC are still there while I finish my big brake kit (14" rotors and 6 piston calipers all around)

Etc Etc

I ended up having the car painted - other than that I have done all the work myself

Added up reciepts are way less than $30,000 --- good luck finding a 68-70 Charger in running condition for that these days - prices have gone NUTS

[KacyZ28]

Under 15k with mine so far... still needs paint and interior Rebuilt 406, Bowtie overdrives stage 3 700r4, 355s, 18 US mags, aftermarket wiring harness, Holley EFI, front semi coil overs, Global west Upper control arms, VB&P rear fiberglass spring,
163941

[Bygblok]

My 66 Buick will likely be in the $20k range when I’m done. So far I’m in it around $5k........... all aftermarket suspension, digital gauges, factory style interior and a single turbo 5.3/4L60 combo. Building it as a distance cruiser for my wife and I to enjoy.