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View Full Version : My 275x40x17 on 9.5" TTII's with 5.5" backspacing don't fit my 68 camaro



rp0029
08-24-2008, 04:50 AM
Hey guys,
Long time listener, first time caller here.
I recently had delivered some TTIIs and tires for my car, a 68 camaro coupe.
On the rear, I got 275x40x17 tires, and TTIIs that were 17", 9.5" wide, with 5.5" backspacing.
I have rear drums that will eventually be replaced with discs, probably the LS1 discs.
Before mounting the tires, I checked the rims for fitment. The rim is about 1/8" away from the shock. It is situated so that if I were to mount the tires, there would be major rubbing against the shock.
What should I do?
The shocks are air shocks put on by a shop a couple years ago. I don't know the brand.
I figure I can either a) send the rims back and get the 3" BS ones, (which will not ship until 9/17), b) get a spacer, c) get 245x40x17" tires, or d) b & c. Could it be my shocks?
My car is not lowered any way, and suspension is a mystery to me, which is why I signed up here - to learn. Any thoughts?

trapin
08-24-2008, 05:51 AM
First off, welcome to the site...you came to the right place.

My initial thought is in regards to the air shock. I think they have a larger diameter tube than a regular gas shock. Also, you might want to verify that the wheels do indeed have 5.5" of backspacing. Lay the wheel flat on the ground and place a long straight piece of wood across the opening. Than measure from the hub seat out to the piece of wood. The rear suspension in first gen Camaros have been known to vary from car to car. What works for one car may not necessarily work for another.

I had those same size wheels and backspacing on my car and they fit perfectly.

Mr Nick
08-24-2008, 06:18 AM
I agree with Tony, compare you current air shocks to a 'normal' replacement shock. The air shocks I sell at work have a larger diameter and that might be the cause of your problem.

nowukno
08-24-2008, 06:57 AM
3X I agree,thate air shock body may be too wide in diameter.If you dont mind me asking,is there any reason your running air shocks? They are usally used on trucks or wagons.I think A good gas shock will do the job for you..get the specs on your air shocks and compare them with the specs on a good gas shock..

nowukno
08-24-2008, 07:05 AM
P.S dont send your rims back just yet,It might be worth it for you to go to napa autozone etc. and by a cheap set of rear gas ($14 each max) shocks for mock up purposes install them check for clearance if that fixes the problem take them back get your money back and purchase a better set from one of the site sponsers or a place of your choice.seems like a lot of work but imagine sending wheels back for no reason at all..i think you'll be just fine.

eville
08-24-2008, 07:36 AM
i agree about the air shocks.

Also, a 3" BS will NOT work with a 9.5" wheel. The tire would stick out WAY too far.

rp0029
08-24-2008, 10:00 AM
Wow, you guys are awesome. The problem seems to be at the shock, not at the wheel well.
I think you guys are probably dead on.
As I stated above, I am completely ignorant about suspension. My car brakes and handles like utter crap, which is why I came here. While I have an engine that could pull a stump, I'd like to get the suspension and brakes to at least modern performance.
There is no reason why I am running air shocks. I had a shop do them a couple of years ago, and that is what they put in.
So are shocks hard to remove?

nowukno
08-24-2008, 10:16 AM
No Not at all, usually a bolt at each mounting point in the rear, top and bottom.get a friend to help you if need be.You came to the right place for Camaro Help.Get Pics up when you can and get rid of those air shocks.Good set of 4 gas shocks should be a good start..

6'9"Witha69
08-24-2008, 10:19 AM
Shocks are easy. A box end and an open end from the trunk and a wratchet & socket down below. Try to have the suspension in droop so that the shock is as long as it can be for both ease of install as well as safety. Also, drain the air out first. I could swap em in about 15 mins flat including jacking and supporting.

CarlC
08-24-2008, 10:29 AM
Don't be surprised if the the ride height changes after removing the air shocks. This is a common way for many to try in increase ride height after the stock leaf springs sag after 40+ years of use. Unfortunately, it's the wrong way, and often leads to ill handling and a plethora of other problems.

You will find that upgrading the rear springs and shocks, along with updating the front suspension, will make a world of difference. Imagine the difference between the feeling of having a stock engine vs. what you have now. The same thing happens with the suspension and brakes when you choose the right matching components. I always hated being concerned that the car could not handle and brake nearly as well as the engine could make the car go.

That size rim should fit but may require a bit of fender lip rolling from the 10-2 o-clock location. Shocks should not be a problem.

rp0029
08-24-2008, 10:31 AM
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/08/Image076-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/08/Image085-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/08/Image086-1.jpg
Sorry the pictures are crappy, but they are from the cell phone.

rp0029
08-24-2008, 10:41 AM
Don't be surprised if the the ride height changes after removing the air shocks. This is a common way for many to try in increase ride height after the stock leaf springs sag after 40+ years of use. Unfortunately, it's the wrong way, and often leads to ill handling and a plethora of other problems.

You will find that upgrading the rear springs and shocks, along with updating the front suspension, will make a world of difference. Imagine the difference between the feeling of having a stock engine vs. what you have now. The same thing happens with the suspension and brakes when you choose the right matching components. I always hated being concerned that the car could not handle and brake nearly as well as the engine could make the car go.

That size rim should fit but may require a bit of fender lip rolling from the 10-2 o-clock location. Shocks should not be a problem.

That is probably why the shocks were addded. I have little doubt that the monoleafs are the same ones that were put on in the factory 40 years ago.

What parts do I need to swap the rear springs out? What do you guys recommend? Is stepping up to multi leaf necessary?

Getting these rims on is just the first step in my suspension/handling difficulties. I am experiencing a back end vibration at about 55-60mph that may or may not be related to the pinion angle. After the 265x55x14 tire on it went flat I decided to hell with the old rusty bent up rims. I needed the rims anyway.

nowukno
08-24-2008, 10:43 AM
Don't be surprised if the the ride height changes after removing the air shocks. This is a common way for many to try in increase ride height after the stock leaf springs sag after 40+ years of use. Unfortunately, it's the wrong way, and often leads to ill handling and a plethora of other problems.

You will find that upgrading the rear springs and shocks, along with updating the front suspension, will make a world of difference. Imagine the difference between the feeling of having a stock engine vs. what you have now. The same thing happens with the suspension and brakes when you choose the right matching components. I always hated being concerned that the car could not handle and brake nearly as well as the engine could make the car go.

That size rim should fit but may require a bit of fender lip rolling from the 10-2 o-clock location. Shocks should not be a problem.
What CarlC said

6'9"Witha69
08-24-2008, 12:52 PM
There you go Carl, thinking outside the box again!

Carl is right, the whole setup needs to be addressed.

As to address the what it takes, springs with new spring eye bushings and new frame bushings for the shackles are necessary. Mono leafs are really only goo for bone sock appllications with 6 bangers. THis does not include fiberglass 'mono' leafs though. They are one piece or 'mono' but have the thickness at the mounting pad of a steel multi leaf spring. Changing all that involves about 10 bolts per side. Not too complicated but an extra pair of hands is always good for safety as the rear assembly gets heavy real quick! Do one side at a time if possible.

In order to convert to multi you will either need to weld on new perches to the axle tubes or buy a set of adapters (much easier and cheaper) from a place like DSE.

rp0029
08-24-2008, 02:05 PM
Don't the JCW springs fit right up without any welding?
www.camaros.net/forums/showthread.php?t=122050&highlight=%22mono+leaf%22+JCW (http://www.camaros.net/forums/showthread.php?t=122050&highlight=%22mono+leaf%22+JCW)

CarlC
08-24-2008, 07:49 PM
If I may.....

Don't jump in too fast with suspension upgrades. There is a ton of info here, at camaros.net, etc. Read Read Read. Then read more. There's enough to read keep you busy for weeks.

There are a ton of different ways to get good results. You will also get a ton of different opinions. Read, set a budget, use the search function, read more, and ask questions.

You don't have to spend a ton of money to get good results. However, I suggest that you don't cheap out on components. Would you use a cheapie piston in a high-performance application? A junky old cam? Suspension and brakes are the same way. Buying good components will last longer, handle better, and be less expensive in the long run.

6'9"Witha69
08-24-2008, 07:53 PM
If I may.....

Don't jump in too fast with suspension upgrades. There is a ton of info here, at camaros.net, etc. Read Read Read. Then read more. There's enough to read keep you busy for weeks.

There are a ton of different ways to get good results. You will also get a ton of different opinions. Read, set a budget, use the search function, read smoe more, and ask questions.:worship:

shep
08-24-2008, 07:59 PM
When you change to disks on the rear it will push the wheel out some as well, giving more clearence to the shock.

rp0029
08-25-2008, 08:02 AM
So what I was thinking was to upgrade the rear first. As this is just a street machine that I hope to drive around 2-3 days a week, I don't need positraction. I am happy with the current gearing, and I think the rear end will hold up fine. I am not looking to run any road courses (I just want a street machine that will make me grin, and the engine does that), and I do not really want to lower the car. Just a comfortable ride that handles around the same as my stock 99 Trans Am. I prefer the stock height.

As far as suspension, I was thinking that I will install some monoleaf springs designed to fit a 1970 Nova - either the ones from JCW above or the ones for 1968 cars found here on P 14:

http://1967-81camarocarparts.com/catalogPDFs/F1%2006%20suspension.pdf

I read that neither of the above springs require me to weld on new perches. I want to get new spring and shackle bushing sets (Summit PTP-7-1052-BL) and new spring pads (Summit ENS-3-6113G).

It will then be a question of shocks. I was thinking Edelbrock Performer IAS Monotube Shocks. But which ones? Should I get the ones for mono leaf spings - EDL-3376, as the positioning of the spring will be just as the mono leaf, or the ones for multi leaf springs, EDL-34981?

Of course I will test fit some cheapo gas shocks on a mock-up, and later put on the Edelbrocks, but should this all fit together? Is there anything else I need to upgrade the rear springs so the car doesn't sag anymore?