Project "Sleeper" - 69 Camaro updates

[1969CamaroRS]

Well I finally decided I needed my own project thread rather than keep posting updates to my welcome thread:
https://www.pro-touring.com/forum/showthread.php?p=342337

For lack of a better project name, I chose "Sleeper" since I want to keep the stock look of my 69 Camaro but modernize it with more HP, better brakes, suspension etc. Obviously if you look closely you will notice it is not stock, but hopefully to the casual observer it will look like a stocker. I am still considering putting full Z/28 emblems on it and a 302 cowl decal just to throw one off further.

Some pictures of the car:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/08/Exterior003-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/08/Exterior002-1.jpg

It is a 69 Camaro with the RS option with a cowl hood, automatic (700R4) and white interior. It has some z/28 Emblems that the previous owner had put on them. I was also told that it had a early 90s restoration done to it. I think the guy I bought the car from got it running again (bought it from a younger guy) and flipped it. I base this on the general state that the car was in (all the fluids hadn't been changed in a long time, radiator was just about rusted out etc). But that is okay, I was looking for something that had a really good body but needed an engine. I was still able to drive it home just fine, although it had some electrical and carb problems later and sat.

Overall the goal is to do as much work myself as I possibly can, both to learn how to do it and for the challenge.

I enrolled in a local JC and started taking automotive classes as I really hadn't done stuff like this before and really wanted to do it right. So it didn't take long for me to pull it apart anyways:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/08/FrontSuspension000a-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/08/OldEngine003-1.jpg

Old engine and trans, and old tired 307 passenger block from a late 70s early 80s car and a 700R4 trans:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/08/OldEngine008-1.jpg


Originally the plan was just to build an engine for the car, but that snowballed (more about that later). So I started building a big block to drop in the car. It is a 454 GenV block I found at a junkyard (took 4 tries to get one without cracks in it). It is bored 030 over with a stroker crank making it 489ci (8.0L).

So starting on the engine blue print, it is magna-fluxed, sonic tested. Mains, cylinder bores and deck are checked for straightness to get a baseline (pretty good but some machining is in order to make it perfect):

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/08/Engine001c-1.jpg

All the machining is done by me in my engine machining class (except boring and honing they didn't have that machine at the time).

Nice fresh block (with Por-15 engine paint on it; I just love this paint, you can hammer it and pour brake clean on it, doesn't phase it):
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/08/Engine001z-1.jpg

Custom grinding was done on the top of the block for increased oil return and a screen kit is installed (case I grenade a valve it will save my bottom end):
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/08/Engine002-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/08/Engine003-1.jpg

[1969CamaroRS]

Bottom end goes together:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/08/Engine005-1.jpg

All the main bearings are clearanced within .0001 of each other, for very even oil distribution. The goal is not so much max HP but a high HP build that will be very reliable.

Brodix RR-O heads are purchased. Out of the box they have a horrible run-out on the valve seats (max of .009; when we want to see under .002 at least; ideal is under .0005). The guides are honed, valves are checked (they are really good less than .0005 run out on the valve face). Machining the valve seats is done and a run-out of under .0005 is attained. The heads are surfaced (the surface wasn't perfectly flat, plus wanted to raise the compression just a tad).
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/08/Engine013b-1.jpg

The intake and exhaust ports are ported and polished.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/08/Engine013a-1.jpg

The chambers are cleaned up and CC matched within 0.1 CC of each other. The heads are vacuum checked (20in of Vacuum they seal nice and tight). Should have a real nice and even compression ratio across all cylinders of 9.8:1:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/08/Engine013c-1.jpg

Cam goes in:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/08/Engine015-1.jpg

It is a Comp Cams "Thumpr" roller cam 227/241 @.050 547/530 lift 107deg lobe separation. I went with the Thumpr as from my understanding a common weakness of a big block is it lack of exhaust breathing. My hope is that with the 107 deg lob separation and the increased exhaust duration that this will help correct some it.

Pistons, rods and pins are all weighed and measured. One Piston was a bit out of spec but JE in Huntington Beach swapped it right out for me with a smile, even giving me one that allowed me to get my piston to cylinder wall clearances all within .0001 of each other.

Pistons are SRP forged, crank is a Eagle cast crank good for 750hp (since I am not building a high RPM motor should be good), rings are Perfect Circle moly and rods are I-Beam Eagle.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/08/Engine018-1.jpg

Pins are installed, rings are gapped, rod bearings clearance like the mains to .0001 of each other.

Short block is together now:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/08/Engine019-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/08/Engine020-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/08/Engine021-1.jpg

Oil pump is a Moroso high volume with pickup and wind age tray.

[1969CamaroRS]

Heads go on, nice shot of the custom grinding both on the block and heads:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/08/Engine023-1.jpg

Verifying timing:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/08/Engine024-1.jpg

Intake is port matched to the heads and goes on. Full roller rockers (Comp Cams) with 1.7:1 ratio. Edelbrock RPM Air gap:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/08/Engine026-1.jpg

Valve and timing covers go on (Trans-dapt powder coated valve covers and GM stock timing cover for a GenV motor painted with left over Por-15):
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/08/Engine027-1.jpg

Valve covers are crappy and leak and replaced later but the intake sure looks nice (durashine finish):
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/08/Engine028-1.jpg

Water pump (Stewart Components Stage 2 pump) and MSD Distributor go in:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/08/Engine030-1.jpg

March performance pulleys for v-belt systems and Holly Street avenger 770cfm with air cleaner go on:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/08/Engine031-1.jpg

Hooker ceramic coated headers with 2” primaries and 3.5” collectors:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/08/Engine032-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/08/Engine033-1.jpg

Finished product ready to start up:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/08/Engine034-1.jpg

[1969CamaroRS]

After initialing firing up the motor on an engine stand, all the problems found were fixed (bad radiator cap, leaking valve covers, spark plug wire holders that let the wires hit the headers etc)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/08/Engine036-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/08/Engine037-1.jpg

Fast Air/Fuel meter and dual wideband O2 sensors are installed, along with Pypes Race-Pro mufflers (went with their 3” stainless exhaust kit as well):
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/08/Engine042-1.jpg

More engine buildup pics here:

http://s328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Engine/

General Stats for the engine
Engine Type
Big Block Chevy displacing 489ci / 8.0L
(4.280 bore x 4.250 stroke)
Block
454 Big Block Chevy GenV standard deck

Compression Ratio
9.8:1

Oiling
Moroso 6 quart oil pan
Moroso high volume oil pump
Moroso windage tray
Custom machining done to top of block to increase oil return

Rotating Assembly
Eagle Rotating Assembly, Eagle cast crank, Forged SRP Pistons, Eagle I-Beam Rods, Perfect Circle Moly Rings, Clevite Tri-Armor Bearings

Cylinder Heads
Brodix Race-Rite Oval Port 270cc intake runner, 119cc Combustion chambers. Race valve job, Mini-ported, chambers matched and polished.

Camshaft
Comp Cams "Thumpr" roller cam 227/241 @.050 547/530 lift 107deg lobe separation. Roller timing chain

Valvetrain
2.250 inch intake / 1.880 exhaust valves
5/16" Comp Cams magnum push rods
dual valve springs

Induction
Edelbrock RPM Air Gap manifold, Holly Street Avenger 770cfm, Aeromotive Street Rod electric fuel pump

Ignition
MSD 6AL box and Distributor with MSD 8.8 spark plug wires

Exhaust
Hooker ceramic coated headers 2 in primaries, 3.5 in collector. Pypes 3" stainless exhaust system with Race-pro mufflers

Fastners
ARP

Gaskets
Fel-Pro

Cooling
Ron Davis Double pass radiator with integrated coolant recovery tank, dual 13" spal fans and controller, Stewart Components Stage 2 high flow water pump, Robert Shaw thermostat, Earl's transmission cooler.

Misc
Tilton Super Starter, March Performance V-Belt system. Billet Specialties Valve covers, wire holders and breathers. Moroso battery relocation kit. Por-15 engine paint.


Should be about 600hp and 600ft-lbs of torque at peak at the flywheel and about 500ft-lbs off idle!

Special thanks to my school and instructor(s) for teaching me and letting me work on my car in the shop.

Ready to put in the car now. But wait all the brakes and suspension stuff will be easier to work on while the motor is out…

[1969CamaroRS]

I can’t put this nice new engine in an engine compartment like this:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/08/FrontSuspension000b-1.jpg

So off the front clip it goes:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/08/FrontSuspension000e-1.jpg

Needs paint badly:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/08/FrontSuspension000g-1.jpg

[Bad pick] Once cleaned up and painted looks like new:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/08/FrontSuspension000h-1.jpg

Time to take a look at the front suspension and firewall, just about everything needed attention (new brakes, ball joints bushings etc)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/08/FrontSuspension001-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/08/FrontSuspension004-1.jpg

Lets pull the front sub-frame. It needed some minor welding to get it back in shape:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/08/FrontSuspension005-1.jpg

And start cleaning up the firewall:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/08/FrontSuspension006-1.jpg

Front clip back from the powder coaters:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/08/FrontSuspension008-1.jpg

[1969CamaroRS]

Now we are cooking, fresh paint on the firewall and front sub-frame, and new goodies:
Touring Classics C5 kit with 12.7” rotors,
AFX spindles
Global West upper and lower control arms
QA1 Double adjustable coil overs
The Right Stuff Detailing stainless brake lines
Hydroboost unit
ATS Lee blueprinted steering box
Baer Trackers
New Moog inner tie rods, pitman arm and idler arm

Thanks to Tyler at ATS for answering all my questions and setting me up with the goods.

New Big block heater core cover, restored heater box, new heater fan etc.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/08/FrontSuspension020-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/08/FrontSuspension021-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/08/FrontSuspension022-1.jpg

More front suspension pictures:
http://s328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Suspension%20and%20Brakes/Front%20Suspension/

Hmm, now I have to get new wheels and tires to fit the big brakes.

Since I am going to have to buy new wheels anyways might as well mini-tub the car so I only have to buy wheels/tires once.

That part of the project can be found here and was done up as a mini-tub guide:
https://www.pro-touring.com/forum/showthread.php?t=46900


but here is some before and after shots:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/08/MiniTub001-1.jpg

after: https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/08/LizardSkin026-1.jpg

[1969CamaroRS]

Now to make the rear suspension match the front:

Old axle (2.72 open 10 bolt with mono-perches):
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/08/RearSuspension014-1.jpg

New Moser with 3.73 gears, 33-spline 1350 yoke, painted with Por-15 and their chassis black:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/08/RearSuspension022-1.jpg

Starting the G-Bar install:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/08/RearSuspension023-1.jpg

Bolts are in:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/08/RearSuspension025-1.jpg

Going to weld the entire sucker in once everything is confirmed straight and true. I really like the G-Bar of all the stuff I have installed this was very easy and straight forward to install the only hiccup so far was a bolt hole in the rear of the bar that there isn’t a good way to drill a hole or start the threads:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/08/RearSuspension026-1.jpg

due to the trunk being in the way (maybe particular to a 69, I dunno). Since in the end it is going to be all welded up, it really doesn’t matter.


Axle housing / diff and shocks going on:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/08/RearSuspension029-1.jpg

Completed:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/08/RearSuspension035-1.jpg

Also went with a Rick’s notched stainless tank, that is baffled and sumped.


More pictures can be found here:
http://s328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Suspension%20and%20Brakes/Rear%20Suspension/

Thanks to Frank and Prodigy for helping answer my questions and hooking me up with the right parts!

Next up in the project (when I get back in school) is putting brake lines and fuel lines in and then I can drop the motor in. Very much looking forward to that. Then I am going to rewire the entire car with a AAW kit, and replace the old vacuum RS headlights with a DSE electric kit, get new head lights and running lights as well as rear taillights. All new Stewart Warner gauges will be installed as well. Everything electrical in the car will be in tip top shape.

[nicks67camaro]

looks great. I love the G-Bar/mini tub combo. I complete mine last winter. What are you planning on running for wheel/tire.

what are the front shocks/spring ?

[Jarcaines]

I am looking forward to this build. I love that you are trying to keep the stock apperance as much as possible.

[Code Red]

looking real nice man

[1969CamaroRS]

looks great. I love the G-Bar/mini tub combo. I complete mine last winter. What are you planning on running for wheel/tire.

what are the front shocks/spring ?

Thanks. Front is QA1s double adjustables same as the rear. Most likely going to go with a 17x11 with 335/35/17 tire in the rear.

Still undecided on rims (my first choice still changes each day). Leaning towards either the Wheel Vintiques Billet Rallyes, Vintage Wheel Works V45s, Rushforths, even looked at Forgelines. Really a matter of budget mostly now. Hence me trying to sell all the unneeded parts.

[nicks67camaro]

I'm in the same boat....Rims are very expensive ....I have the qa1 on mine as well. One bit of advice if you didn't know REALLY GOOD bump stops, and don't drop it too low. I have the "small block" version which are kinda on the soft side.

oh and very nice motor.

[1969CamaroRS]

Nick,

Thanks, yep I went with pretty stiff springs in front 550lbs/in and the rear are 225lbs/in. I don't plan on dropping it to the weeds, but going to go for that nice look, but still able to drive it on the street w/o scraping everywhere, probably leave 5" of space between the ground and the lowest point in the car. Probably even weld something onto the undercarriage to scrape before something important.

[nicks67camaro]

oh good the stiffer srings should help. Keep the updates coming!

[chevelle19700]

lookin good

[Dream68]

Awsome job, this is going to be a bad camaro!!!

[Motown 454]

Awesome Job

[wblanton]

Cool stuff, the engine looks awesome. I actually liked it better with the orange valve covers, broke it up a bit, cool to see the G-bar installation with the Moser that is what I am going with as well. Keep up the good work...

[Jarcaines]

Cool stuff, the engine looks awesome. I actually liked it better with the orange valve covers, broke it up a bit, cool to see the G-bar installation with the Moser that is what I am going with as well. Keep up the good work...

I agree, the orange valve covers where pretty sweet and kinda held with the "sleeper" image.

[1969CamaroRS]

I agree, the orange valve covers where pretty sweet and kinda held with the "sleeper" image.

Yeah I like the Chevy orange theme too. Too bad I couldn't them to actually not leak.

The only other powder coated valve covers in orange out there where the GM at $400.00 a pair. I supposed I could have gotten a nice set then had them powder coated. But the Billet Specialties ball milled are nice too. Plus the sleeper look is just on the surface once you start looking there is no way to fake it then.

[J.J.]

any updates??

[Vegas69]

Very impressive motor work. That cam is a little small for those numbers I would think. I have a .632 Crane and Dart Pro 1 heads that makes around 600/600. I bet it's a stump puller. Keep up the good work man. By the way, I love my 489 so far.

[1969CamaroRS]

any updates??

Been going slow.

Painted and rebuilt my door hinges (replaced bushings, springs etc; much easier to do while the front clip is off). Got the car to a roller. Welded the rear G-Bar cradle in. Now been mocking up fuel lines, brake lines and sub-frame connectors, see where everything is going to fit etc. Hoping to put the engine in next week or so (probably post picture updates then).


Very impressive motor work.
Thanks!


That cam is a little small for those numbers I would think. I have a .632 Crane and Dart Pro 1 heads that makes around 600/600.
You could be right, time will tell. Right now those numbers are based on a simple Desktop Dyno run. I plan on having a real dyno run when the motor is in the car and on the road, so I will have some real numbers eventually. Ultimately I am hoping for a peak of 500hp/tq at the rear wheels so if I can get that I'll be happy :smoke:

But keep in mind this is basically a race motor with a itty bitty cam and heads on it. It is a fully blueprinted motor, everything has been measured, machined, squared and matched that I could do in my engine machining class. That is one of the cool things about having done all the work myself at school. Since I doubt I could have afforded to do all that I did if I was paying someone else. I probably saved myself 10k in engine labor alone (I spent about 500-600 hours building the motor).

All the parts are matched to the same RPM range etc. Compression test (230 exactly in each cylinder) and leakdown (under 5%), oil pressure (60lbs warm at 2k rpm with 10w30 in it) numbers are really good. Its a very tight motor.


So I really do want some real #s, plus the car will see some track time, so should be able to have come up with some real world figures.

[BMF Machine]

ImpressivE!!!!!!

[Vegas69]

Understand but mine was also built from scratch using a brand new Gen 6 roller block, line bored, bored with deck plates, decked, measured to the nearest .0001 and I have all the specs , heads were assembled from scratch. Not trying to beat you up at all. It'as a killer engine and you should be damn proud.I hope you prove me wrong!

[1969CamaroRS]

Understand but mine was also built from scratch using a brand new Gen 6 roller block, line bored, bored with deck plates, decked, measured to the nearest .0001 and I have all the specs , heads were assembled from scratch. Not trying to beat you up at all. It'as a killer engine and you should be damn proud.I hope you prove me wrong!
Don't worry I don't take it personal.

Sounds like you had much same done to your motor as I did. I guess I'm hoping all the blueprinting effort results in some nice extra power, maybe I should go back to my original 550-600 estimate (desktop dyno made me say 600 honest). Its all bench-racing at this point until I get some hard numbers.

But its good to know you love your 489, makes me know I have something to look forward to :bananna2:

[9t8z28]

Subscribed!

[Chad-1stGen]

Sweet project! Awesome work for supposedly not knowing what you are doing :)

[1969CamaroRS]

Sweet project! Awesome work for supposedly not knowing what you are doing :)

Looking back I certainly had no idea. Even now there is so much I know I don't know, but it has been very fun getting to this point. Learnt a ton, thanks to the great automotive teachers I have had.

Still learning a lot even now, things are going together fast, so close to dropping the engine in I can't stand it.

[Vegas69]

I have a 2 year auto degree as well. I also have some dealer experience. There are a lot of things school just doesn't teach on these custom cars. Hard knocks and research here are your best tools.

[1969CamaroRS]

There are a lot of things school just doesn't teach on these custom cars. Hard knocks and research here are your best tools.

Yeah sites like Pro-Touring have been invaluable in helping select the right aftermarket suspension and brakes etc. Luckily also several of my automotive teachers have built a number of hot-rods. I can't imagine trying to do this without all this great information and knowledge at my finger tips.

If nothing else I'd have spent a heck of lot more money getting to where I am now (tons more trial and error).

[1969CamaroRS]

Some quick updates:

Been chasing my tail trying to wrap up all the little things:

Working on mocking up fuel lines - still in progress need to get the engine in and mockup the exhaust really to finish this now, rear/parking brakes, proportioning valve etc.
Did a few more tests on my motor. Hooked it up to an engine scope with a sniffer, did a power balance test (very consistent drop 50 rpm per cylinder), and some fine tuning of the idle circuit (max vacuum/rpm, min CO while keeping HC from going up).
Putting back together my front clip (still had the inner fender kind of out).
Put the trunk lid and springs back on.
Started taking the motor off the stand getting ready to drop it in.
Decided on an Aeromotive Street Rod pump, filters (100 before and 10 after), check valve and fuel cooler (just showed up from Summit)


Still need to dyno the 700R4 that the car came with, see what state it is in. If it is okay, I'll try to get the car running with the 700R4 until I can build my 4L80E in the transmission class in the spring. Otherwise I'll wait until next summer to get the car running if the 700R4 is shot. Still got to redo all the electrical (and gauges) in the entire car so I'll have something to do in any event.


Here is a couple pics of the car ready for the engine:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/10/ReadyForEngine001-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/10/ReadyForEngine003-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/10/ReadyForEngine006-1.jpg

I have the car set at minimum ride height right now. I'll see where it sits with the motor and clip on and how much clearance I have. Right now its nice and low in the rear, should be interesting.

New Wheels should be coming late next week. Should have a nice picture of the engine in with new wheels soon :jump:

[1969CamaroRS]

Quick update - Hooked my 700R4 that came with the car to the trans dyno:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/10/TransDyno001-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/10/TransDyno007-1.jpg

All the pressures are within spec, engine shifts and downshifts; trans is in pretty good shape (least until it takes some big block torque). Going to put a filter in it and its needs a pan gasket bad.

Trans ready for the engine:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/10/EngineInstall002-1.jpg

Trans should work until I can build/afford something else (current plans are to build a 4L80E with paddle shifters).


Pulled the engine off the stand:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/10/EngineInstall007-1.jpg

Put the beater Chinese valve covers back on that I couldn't get to seal (I do like the Chevy Orange).

Bolted up to the trans:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/10/EngineInstall013-1.jpg

Went to try to bolt up the torque converter to the engine flex-plate, found out that the big block flex plate won't mount to the 700R4 torque converter. I guess GM makes a conversion flex-plate but its a special order and will take a few days to arrive.

Now I'm stuck, waiting on brakes, wheels and a flex-plate. Ah the little things of getting a project on the road. Oh well time to drive in axle seals, and adjust hood and trunk a bit while I wait.

[oldrednova]

wow its coming together great man! Itll be interestin to see how that 700r4 does tho :jump:

[1969CamaroRS]

wow its coming together great man! Itll be interestin to see how that 700r4 does tho :jump:

Yeah I'm not sure either especially with sticky 335 Michellin PS/2s in the rear. I'll have to baby it.

[1969CamaroRS]

Quick update. The 700R4 I have is a 27 spline unit, looks like from a 4/6 cylinder. Not even really sure why the bell-housing bolts up (the guts from a 4 cylinder in a 8 cylinder case / spare parts transmission maybe?). Not much point in trying to get the torque converter to bolt up as I'd probably break it after getting on it a time or two.

I had hoped maybe to build a transmission in the next transmission class but the class time is in the afternoon when I work. So either I wait an entire another year or I need to buy a transmission.

Currently looking the feasibility of a Twist machine 4L65E RR or perhaps a 4L80E for 800 ft/lbs setup.

Here are some pics:

Put the anti-squeek kit in for the gas tank straps (and between body and tank):
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/11/GasTank-1.jpg

Boy these suckers are tight to fit in, used some 3M weather strip adhesive to hold things in place and a lot of elbow grease to wrestle the straps on enough to get the retaining nut on.

Motor going in:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/11/EngineInstall021-1.jpg

Dropped in:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/11/EngineInstall023-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/11/EngineInstall024-1.jpg

Valiant shown in background getting a new 6 cylinder motor - that red thing shown to the left. Its a nice car, the suspension and brakes have been redone as well (stock). Not my car; just another shop project.

Got some issues with oil pan to cross-member clearance. Oil pan is resting on the cross-member. Raised the motor and put a 1/2 piece of plywood down to smush the pan a bit, that got me about 1/8" clearance, really hoping for 1/4".

So going to raise the motor and beat the dickens out of the bottom of the pan. Also realized I should have laid the headers in as they really don't want to fit especially on the drivers side.

[1968CamaroSS_Sam]

The car is looking very good. You are doing great with the stock look.

[Elec87]

nice...

[1969CamaroRS]

Thanks guys.

Fixed the oil pan clearance issue today (I think) have about 1/4-1/2 of clearance now.

Went to try to put on the transmission cross-member but the 700R4 is back about 2-3 inches and I can't get the cross member to bolt up to the sub-frame. Not really planning on using this trans so not sweating this too much.

Put the headers in:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/11/EngineInstall029-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/11/EngineInstall026-1.jpg

Odd part is I changed my frame and engine mounts out to big block, and even went with a slimmer Lee 670 steering box and the Hooker headers that Holly recommended should fit without taking a beating.

Called Holly and said not to use any heat due to the ceramic coating. Well time to pull out the BF hammer.

[Motown 454]

Looks good . Fits in there snug but sure looks pretty. Not sure if my info is correct but someone told me a turbo 400 cross member fit with a little work. Maybe turned a round facing backwards?
Wayne

[1969CamaroRS]

It actually didn't fit, it was resting on the header, had to beat on the headers in three different places to get it to sit all the way on the mounts so that I could get bolts in them:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/11/EngineInstall032-1.jpg

Least now it fits (more than 1/4 clearance) and I have the mount bolts in. Now to figure out the transmission and keep putting stuff on.

[1969CamaroRS]

Special thanks to Jon at Driverzinc for setting me up with Rushforth Strutters and Michellin Pilot Sport 2s - 245/45/17 on 17x8 in the front and 335/35/17 on 17x12s in the rear. Hidden hardware, polished lip and their now famous Titanium powder coat over a brushed center:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/11/Wheels013-1.jpg

Hard to see the powder coated centers from the pictures but it is a nice and subtle effect (next to the polished lip), really like the look:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/11/Wheels020-1.jpg

I love that from the side you can't really see the wide tires and that the lip doesn't give them away. But from a different angle the size of the tires pops out at you:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/11/EngineInstall038-1.jpg

Now I got the engine mostly in, and my wheels and tires, the car is actually looking like a hot rod. Really excited all coming together:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/11/EngineInstall041-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/11/Wheels029-1.jpg

-------

On another note, figured out what I am going to do for a trans, talked to Steve at Twist Machine and Mark at Bowler transmissions (both very nice and put up with all my questions). Ordered a 4L65E-RR package with paddle shifters. Went with the 65 instead of an 80 since Mark told me they would upgrade me to the 80 if I broke the 65, can't beat that kind of guarantee.

Next up, gotta figure out my power steering pulley, ends up March Performance 2 groove power steering pulley doesn't work with their bracket, got to order a 1 groove pulley (otherwise can't adjust the tension :squint: ) Going to try to get all the engine related fitment fixed then put the front clip back on.

[Motown 454]

Ed The wheels look good on the car, I can't wait to see it with the front clip on it. Are you getting the tranmission now or did you put the 700 it until you get the 4L65 ?
Wayne

[1969CamaroRS]

Ed The wheels look good on the car, I can't wait to see it with the front clip on it. Are you getting the tranmission now or did you put the 700 it until you get the 4L65 ?
Wayne

Thanks! The 700 is bolted up to the engine block at the moment but the converter isn't bolted up to the flexplate (just temporary to mock up stuff).

[1969CamaroRS]

Slowly working through all the things that don't fit.

Put the front clip back on:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/11/EngineInstall051-1.jpg

Still need to play with the front clip a bit to get the gaps better. Least now I have an engine bay:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/11/EngineInstall050-1.jpg

Now to put the car on the alignment rack and do a basic alignment to get it at least close.

Next up fuel lines, rear brake lines, gauges and all the electrical (along with battery in trunk and electrical head light door conversion). Getting exciting, so close.

[tjb0647]

One word... awesome :smoke:

I like the painted valve covers better though, with the aluminum heads it makes a very smooth understated look! just my humble opinion...

[1969CamaroRS]

One word... awesome :smoke:

I like the painted valve covers better though, with the aluminum heads it makes a very smooth understated look! just my humble opinion...

I agree it kind of broke things up better. I just couldn't find a good set other than the GM one for $400.00. I guess I could have bought a decent set and had them powder coated. Maybe I'll have the ones I have now powder coated Chevy Orange at some point.

[1969CamaroRS]

Another update -

Car is now officially back together and is a roller. Even has a working parking brake:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/12/EngineInstall055-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/12/EngineInstall052-1.jpg


Just some random good pics:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/12/EngineInstall057-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/12/EngineInstall058-1.jpg

Car has some minor front end damage (guy I bought it from said a truck backed into it). Needs a new grill, upper and lower valances at least. But I'll worry about that when I do paint and body. Must get it on the road and drive it :machine:

[Young Gun]

car looks sick...and I meant to say congrats on the PHR full page spread! pretty sick!

[1969CamaroRS]

car looks sick...and I meant to say congrats on the PHR full page spread! pretty sick!

Thanks I was I am still pretty stoked about it :)

[dmc69]

lookin good... what brake setup is that?

[1969CamaroRS]

lookin good... what brake setup is that?

Thanks, the brakes are Touring Classics C5 discs (12.7" rotor for AFX spindles) front and their Camaro 12" disc in the rear.

[rlplive]

I saw pics of your gauge setup over at lateral-g, what size guages are they and what did you have to do to make them work?
By the way car looks sick!
Ryan

[1969CamaroRS]

Thanks Ryan :)

Originally I had posted the gauge pics / howto on my welcome thread. Gauges are Stewart Warner Maximum performance line 3-3/8" and 2-1/16", here is a repost:

-------------

Here are the pictures of getting after-market gauges to fit in the stock carrier:

Since my car didn't have a Tach, I wanted to move the fuel gauge to the center (bought a resto bezel from Classic Industries), so I cut out the center to match the bezel:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/12/AfterMarketGauges007-1.jpg

Rear shot of same:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/12/AfterMarketGauges016-1.jpg

Shot of the Bezel along with the bracket I made to hold the gauge and cover up things:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/12/AfterMarketGauges011-1.jpg

Shot with the bracket in:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/12/AfterMarketGauges007-1.jpg

Since the stock carrier can't accept standard aftermarket gauges, I removed the old ones and then proceeded to measure and cutout holes that matched 3-3/8" gauges I wanted to install:

Tach cut out
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/12/AfterMarketGauges009-1.jpg

Speedo cut out
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/12/AfterMarketGauges010-1.jpg

I cut out to about 3" and then used a dremel tool to slowly match fit the gauge exactly to the hole (I wanted it to be really snug). I also made a metal bracket to hold both sides together since I was taking out so much of the middle section.

Rear shot:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/12/AfterMarketGauges008-1.jpg

Mockup with gauges:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/12/AfterMarketGauges018-1.jpg

Completed Front (polished the stock lenses):
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/10/AfterMarketGauges022-1.jpg

It is hard to tell with the pictures but the Fuel gauge is held at the same angle as the Speedo and Tach.

Rear:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/12/AfterMarketGauges023-1.jpg

The Carrier is pretty beat up, and I'll address that when I redo the interior as another project (right now want to get the car running).

------

[icebird84]

I like it , it is a good looking Camaro

[rlplive]

Awesome, thanks a lot man. I really dig the look of that.

[1969CamaroRS]

Haven't done an update in a while so here it is:

Car made PHR's under construction section here is a post about it here:
https://www.pro-touring.com/forum/showthread.php?t=49892

Told my instructor who told the school's PR department which ended up doing a couple stories one in the tech bulletin that goes out to all the JCs with Tech schools and the local paper. Never thought there would be so much interest. But I guess a computer guy going to school and doing this while he is learning is a story of some interest. Been pretty stoked about it.

Towed the car out of the College shop and home (long story).

I been working with Steve and Twist Machine and Bowler Transmissions to hook me up with a 4L65E-RR package with paddle shifters (since my old trans won't do):

New Trans:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/01/th_Transmission005-1.jpg (http://s328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Transmission/?action=view&current=Transmission005.jpg)

Painted with Por-15 and their Chassis Black:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/01/th_Transmission016sm-1.jpg (http://s328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Transmission/?action=view&current=Transmission016sm.jpg)

I gotta say working with Steve was amazing. He made a custom adapter for me so I could run a wheel that keeps with my stock interior:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/01/IMG_0189-1.jpg

Even better looking in person. Steering wheel is a Grant wheel made for a Corvette (since you can't run a deep dish with the paddle shifters). I can't wait to bolt this thing up. Got a nice crossmember from GForce to go with the trans as well:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/01/th_Transmission008-1.jpg (http://s328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Transmission/?action=view&current=Transmission008.jpg)

My hat is off to Steve for providing such great products and services!


Since the car is now home I decided to do some of the things I had been putting off at the shop at school. I hadn't painted my trunk since mini-tubbing and it has some rust issues I need to address. So I have been stripping off all the paint (and some bondo :( ) out of the trunk. Looks like they used a bunch of bondo to cover up some rust problems in the trunk.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/01/th_Trunk004-1.jpg (http://s328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Interior/Trunk/?action=view&current=Trunk004.jpg) https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/01/th_Trunk005-1.jpg (http://s328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Interior/Trunk/?action=view&current=Trunk005.jpg)

Got most of the paint, undercoating and rust off now so I can see what I am dealing with:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/01/th_Trunk007-1.jpg (http://s328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Interior/Trunk/?action=view&current=Trunk007.jpg)

Not certain of what I am going to do yet. Probably need a new trunk pan if I was going to do the fix the right way. Just I want to get the car on the road and metal work seems to take me forever to do. Thinking about using of the Por-15 products to fill in the rust holes and then paint up the trunk with Por-15 then splatter paint it and seal it.

Along with doing the same to the interior floor boards as well (which are in actually very good shape (no rust or bondo). Then once all that is done using Second Skin's Damplifier pro and insulate sound proof the bottom of the car. I also have a bunch of Lizard skin left I figure I'll use in the doors and hard to reach areas of the interior.

Also rolled my rear fender lips on both sides as I need to do that as one side was a bit close for my liking (don't have pics yet).

Been very busy with the holidays and such (built an entertainment system for my folks as my brothers and I went in and bought them a nice big screen LCD TV for Christmas). Hopefully should be able to pick up some steam and get the Trans in and get the interior painted up and insulated.

[1971CHEVELLE]

Nice project...I love the car:) Keep us posted. Good luck

[1969CamaroRS]

Nice project...I love the car:) Keep us posted. Good luck





Thanks!

[BMF Machine]

LookinG Great! You are making some very good choices!

[Steeevooo]

Totally awesome man, I'll be looking to this thread when I do my car appreciate the extensive details....keep'em coming :1st:

[Wolfpac]

sweet build

[1969CamaroRS]

Thanks all! Should have some more updates soon, been mocking up all the wiring for the trans controller, finally got a flexplate that actually has the proper bolt pattern in it, trans should be going in early next week.

[1969CamaroRS]

Well time for a big update.

Had the car towed back into the College shop for a winter class. The tow truck driver ended up dumping my car into my planter (drive way is really steep). Had told him that I only had a parking brake and that we needed to go slow due to the steep driveway. But he was in too much of a hurry and didn't listen. Looks like the parking brake won't hold the car on that steep an angle. Going to need to make sure I get at least the driveshaft in before towing back home again. I was lucky another 6" and it would have dropped 6 feet into my neighbor's front yard. Ended up putting a small gouge in my new wheels thou on the driver's front side.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/02/th_WheelDamage003-1.jpg (http://s328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Wheels/?action=view&current=WheelDamage003.jpg)

Talked to Jon at Driver's inc about getting it fixed he thought that they could make it look as good as new.

Time to install the trans:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/02/th_Transmission035-1.jpg (http://s328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Transmission/?action=view&current=Transmission035.jpg)

Ends up thou that the flexplate that eagle gave me is some odd one that only has one bolt pattern (11.50") instead of a dual bolt pattern.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/02/th_Transmission017-1.jpg (http://s328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Transmission/?action=view&current=Transmission017.jpg)

If I was going to run this bolt pattern it would require a lot of changes to the Bowler/Twist Machine setup. Eagle wasn't much help as they were not sure why the flexplate only had one pattern on it (claimed it should have had two) and didn't know the balance weight on the flexplate. Finally after a lot of help from Steve and Twist machine I bought a TCI one.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/02/th_Transmission033-1.jpg (http://s328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Transmission/?action=view&current=Transmission033.jpg)

Just to be certain both flexplates had the same counterweight (the TCI one was almost a pound heavier), I put both flexplates on a manual tire balancer and they both had the same out of balance weight within 0.1oz. One problem solved.

Started mocking up and installing the trans wiring along with Fast's A/F meter and dual wide band O2 sensors. Trying for a really nice clean install so that its not noticeable. Drilled a second hole so I could route everything (too much wiring to go through the stock single hole). Tried to offset it the same least give it some symmetry:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/02/th_Transmission047-1.jpg (http://s328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Transmission/?action=view&current=Transmission047.jpg) https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/02/th_Transmission046-1.jpg (http://s328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Transmission/?action=view&current=Transmission046.jpg)

Had to clearance the trans tunnel a bit in a few places (around the accumulator pump and on the Passanger's O2 sensor. So far really happy with the install. Unless you are really looking for it, none of the wiring or O2 sensors should be visible:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/02/th_Transmission051-1.jpg (http://s328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Transmission/?action=view&current=Transmission051.jpg) https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/02/th_Transmission048-1.jpg (http://s328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Transmission/?action=view&current=Transmission048.jpg) https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/02/th_Transmission049-1.jpg (http://s328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Transmission/?action=view&current=Transmission049.jpg) https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/02/th_Transmission050-1.jpg (http://s328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Transmission/?action=view&current=Transmission050.jpg)

[1969CamaroRS]

Installed the Shiftworks 4 speed kit with new dent and cover:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/02/th_Transmission038-1.jpg (http://s328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Transmission/?action=view&current=Transmission038.jpg) https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/02/th_Transmission036-1.jpg (http://s328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Transmission/?action=view&current=Transmission036.jpg)

Really fits with my "stock" / "sleeper" theme. Can now at least put the trans in all gears now properly.

Also ordered a Mark Williams 3" Chromoly drive-shaft. Actually received it, but it seems that the Bowler trans has a heavy duty output shaft. The OD of the spines is the same as the shaft OD rather than being raised.

What this meant that the Trans yoke wouldn't fit all the way in and prevented me from installing the driveshaft. After talking with Travis at Mark Williams we were able to figure out what was going on.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/02/th_OutputShaft001-1.jpg (http://s328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Transmission/?action=view&current=OutputShaft001.jpg) https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/02/th_OutputShaft003-1.jpg (http://s328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Transmission/?action=view&current=OutputShaft003.jpg)

And they were kind enough to offer to counter-bore the yoke about 5/8" and rebalance to get it to fit. So waiting on the return of the driveshaft to install it.

Installed my sub-frame connectors. Really needed them in so I could continue with fuel line routing:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/02/th_SubFrameConnectors004-1.jpg (http://s328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Suspension%20and%20Brakes/?action=view&current=Sub-FrameConnectors004.jpg) https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/02/th_SubFrameConnectors005-1.jpg (http://s328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Suspension%20and%20Brakes/?action=view&current=Sub-FrameConnectors005.jpg)

Ended up TiG welding in the rears completely but on the fronts, I drilled the holes to bolt them up but then tacking them on the bottom and top on each side (4 tacks per sub-frame connector side).
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/02/th_SubFrameConnectors003-1.jpg (http://s328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Suspension%20and%20Brakes/?action=view&current=Sub-FrameConnectors003.jpg) https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/02/th_SubFrameConnectors008-1.jpg (http://s328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Suspension%20and%20Brakes/?action=view&current=Sub-FrameConnectors008.jpg)

Should be pretty solid, but if I ever need to pull the front sub-frame should be able to, just have to grind down a few welds.

Looks like the exhaust has some fitment problems as well. Need to trim the passenger sides' collector reducer about 1" so that the exhaust runs straight along the centerline of the car. Also going to need to trim the X-Pipes about 9" so that I can properly fit the mufflers in.

Mocking up the rear brake lines and tabs, just need to weld those in now.

Finished mocking up the fuel line and cooler lines for the oil cooler and trans cooler. Bought all my AN fittings (damn they were expensive). Going to run a combination of hardlines and flexline. Hoping to run hardline where ever I can and then use the flexline to allow components to move around when they need to or to allow disassembly as needed (to change fuel filters for example or to isolate the fuel pump).

Bought all the hardlines and flex line, benders, flaring and cutting tools. Now it is just a matter of going to town and getting it done. Bending the hardlines to actually where it seems to be the biggest challenge for me. Was practicing flaring tubing and that seems straight forward enough, its just getting the hardline bends correct, the seamless annealed stainless especially in 5/8 isn't cheap or easy to bend.


Mocked up my Ron Davis radiator:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/02/th_EngineInstall069-1.jpg (http://s328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Engine/Engine%20Install/?action=view&current=EngineInstall069.jpg) https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/02/th_EngineInstall070-1.jpg (http://s328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Engine/Engine%20Install/?action=view&current=EngineInstall070.jpg)

Also have the March Performance v-belt pulley system with a long water pump. Always heard some people had trouble with this. There is a nub on the fan motors on the Driver's side fan it has next to no clearance with the power steering pulley nut. I just need about 1/8 to 1/4 mroe clearance. I used well nuts to mount the radiator on the driver's side. Thinking of replacing those with some really thin rubber washers. Also I might be able to get a bit more clearance by loosening the fan shroud and pushing it in a bit further. Also a different nut on the power steering.

Also it might be possible to rotate the fan or the fan motor 180* to get this nub out of the way. W/o the nub there is a good 1/2 clearance.


I wonder if I should rename my project to "Nothing Fits", lol.

Next steps get the driveshaft back and in, get the exhaust and radiator to fit. Then going to fab up some brackets to hold the trans and oil coolers in front of the radiator.

[Mossimo777]

Wow, looks great! Great choice on wheels too. Makin me wish I would have mini tubbed mine. I guess its never too late.

[Motown 454]

Ed Nice update it looks like your moving right a long. Everything looks great. Keep us posted.

[Apogee]

Ed, very cool build...moving pretty quickly for a beginner doing most of your own work on a budget. Impressive.

FWIW, I noticed that your front rotors appear to be mounted backwards with the cooling vanes facing the wrong direction. Is that a camera trick or just an oversight?

Tobin
KORE3

[1969CamaroRS]

Ed, very cool build...moving pretty quickly for a beginner doing most of your own work on a budget. Impressive.

FWIW, I noticed that your front rotors appear to be mounted backwards with the cooling vanes facing the wrong direction. Is that a camera trick or just an oversight?

Tobin
KORE3

Yeah I ditched the drilled and slotted rotors and went with a plain set since I wanted longevity on the street. Some of the early pictures had the drilled and slotted rotors on them (looked cool thou and could easily have been backwards was mocking up a lot quick).

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/03/th_FrontSuspension021-1.jpg (http://s328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Suspension%20and%20Brakes/Front%20Suspension/?action=view&current=FrontSuspension021.jpg)

[CruizinKev]

looks good :twothumbs

[1971CHEVELLE]

Awesome build:twothumbs

[lftnwhls]

It actually didn't fit, it was resting on the header, had to beat on the headers in three different places to get it to sit all the way on the mounts so that I could get bolts in them:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/11/EngineInstall032-1.jpg

Least now it fits (more than 1/4 clearance) and I have the mount bolts in. Now to figure out the transmission and keep putting stuff on.


I had the same problem I bought these headers from hooker. Notice the #5 header tube.https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

[1969CamaroRS]

Thanks all for the compliments. Should have another update in the next week or two almost done with fuel and cooling systems.

Getting pretty close to only having electrical left.

[blown9746]

Hey Ed, what school are you taking classes at? I see you talk about work in one of the posts, just wondering how long the classes are generally? Is it something you do in the evening?

[Motown 454]

Happy birthday ED I hope you got to do something with the car today.

[1969CamaroRS]

Hey Ed, what school are you taking classes at? I see you talk about work in one of the posts, just wondering how long the classes are generally? Is it something you do in the evening?

Local Community College. The classes are usually about 4 months long. I actually work afternoon/evenings which allows me to take classes in the mornings.


Happy birthday ED I hope you got to do something with the car today.

Oh Thanks Wayne, not sure how I missed your well wishes. My wife ended up throwing me a surprise birthday party which was a lot of fun.

[1969CamaroRS]

Update: Been busy trying to get everything to fit. Got the drive shaft back from Mark Williams fits like a glove now.

I then started on mocking up and bending all the hardline tubing for my fuel system. I am using a Ricks stainless notched, baffled, sumped tank. I used -10 AN fittings coming out of the tank (was a pain routing them straight up for the nice clean look) and going to an Aeromotive 100 micron filter with a shutoff valve. This goes into their Street Rod pump and down to -8. The pump and filter are held by a some custom brackets so that they can move but isolated from the body by rubber grommits (need to take a better pic). This is then routed via 1/2 hardline to the lower rocker panel near the front of the passenger's side into a -10 BG plate and fin type cooler. This goes into a -10 Aeromotive 10 micron filter and into a Drainback valve then to -8 Earl's braided hose up to the regulator. The regulator then splits into 2 -6 hoses each feeding a side of the Carb. The return is plumbed similar. -8 Braided hose from the regulator to the framerail, then 1/2 hardline all the way back to the tank where it opens up to 5/8 hardline for the bends to make it around and back into the tank. Here are some pics:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/04/th_FuelSystem004-1.jpg (http://s328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Engine/Engine%20Install/Fuel%20System/?action=view&current=FuelSystem004.jpg) https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/04/th_FuelSystem024-1.jpg (http://s328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Engine/Engine%20Install/Fuel%20System/?action=view&current=FuelSystem024.jpg) https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/04/th_FuelSystem018-1.jpg (http://s328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Engine/Engine%20Install/Fuel%20System/?action=view&current=FuelSystem018.jpg)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/04/th_FuelSystem009-1.jpg (http://s328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Engine/Engine%20Install/Fuel%20System/?action=view&current=FuelSystem009.jpg) https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/04/th_FuelSystem017-1.jpg (http://s328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Engine/Engine%20Install/Fuel%20System/?action=view&current=FuelSystem017.jpg) https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/04/th_FuelSystem010-1.jpg (http://s328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Engine/Engine%20Install/Fuel%20System/?action=view&current=FuelSystem010.jpg)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/04/th_FuelSystem025-1.jpg (http://s328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Engine/Engine%20Install/Fuel%20System/?action=view&current=FuelSystem025.jpg) https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/04/th_FuelSystem026-1.jpg (http://s328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Engine/Engine%20Install/Fuel%20System/?action=view&current=FuelSystem026.jpg) https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/04/th_FuelSystem029-1.jpg (http://s328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Engine/Engine%20Install/Fuel%20System/?action=view&current=FuelSystem029.jpg)

All the hard and flex line are held in place by coated Adel clamps so that nothing will chaff. The areas where the hoses or hardlines could run are covered by Tiagon tubing. Had to fabricate a number of custom brackets. Used a bunch of stainless button head allens for a nice look. Made a custom screen over the fuel cooler to keep debris from impacting it.

[1969CamaroRS]

Installed heater and radiator hoses. Went up one size in air filter as well (measured had an extra 1" of space so it just fits). Still have a bit of work to do in trimming and gotta do something about the brass fittings :D Engine Bay now:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/04/th_EngineInstall074-1.jpg (http://s328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Engine/Engine%20Install/?action=view&current=EngineInstall074.jpg) https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/04/th_EngineInstall075-1.jpg (http://s328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Engine/Engine%20Install/?action=view&current=EngineInstall075.jpg)


Oil Cooler Lines made from 5/8 stainless annealed seamless tubing (all the hardlines of various sizes). They were a real pain getting 5/8 line to fit and bent around the kickout in my pan. Even still I have to run an external oil filter because I cannot take the oil filter off with the oil cooler lines the filter runs into either the lines, the kickout in the pan or the headers.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/04/th_CoolingSystem001-1.jpg (http://s328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Engine/Engine%20Install/Cooling%20System/?action=view&current=CoolingSystem001.jpg) https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/04/th_CoolingSystem002-1.jpg (http://s328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Engine/Engine%20Install/Cooling%20System/?action=view&current=CoolingSystem002.jpg)

Trans cooler lines are even more of a pain especially the upper one. No way to actually tighten down the fitting can only barely get a finger in there. Also very little space between the header and the lines so put some of the Earl's spark plug wire silicon covers.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/04/th_CoolingSystem004-1.jpg (http://s328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Engine/Engine%20Install/Cooling%20System/?action=view&current=CoolingSystem004.jpg) https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/04/th_CoolingSystem003-1.jpg (http://s328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Engine/Engine%20Install/Cooling%20System/?action=view&current=CoolingSystem003.jpg)

Installed a belly pan
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/04/th_EngineInstall080-1.jpg (http://s328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Engine/Engine%20Install/?action=view&current=EngineInstall080.jpg) https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/04/th_EngineInstall0811-1.jpg (http://s328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Engine/Engine%20Install/?action=view&current=EngineInstall081-1.jpg)

Now trying to figure out the plumbing for the oil thermostat and the trans/oil coolers. I gotta say this would be a lot simplier if I didn't have an RS:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/04/th_CoolingSystem005-1.jpg (http://s328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Engine/Engine%20Install/Cooling%20System/?action=view&current=CoolingSystem005.jpg)

[1969CamaroRS]

A word on the hardline and flex line. I found that the Rigid flaring tool to be a great tool for doing the 37* flares needed for the AN fittings.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/04/213XJABPG5L_SL500_AA210_-1.jpg

Imperial Eastman benders worked well for me, the 5/8 bender is kind of scary, leaning so much weight on it to bend the 5/8 tubing.

I cut all the hardline with a rotary tubing cutter. Then filled down the end smooth, countersunk the end, then used a deburring tool with 80 grit to smooth the inside and outside of the tubing, followed up with some 400 grit emery cloth to get everything really smooth. If it was rough to the touch I made it smooth. I found if I did that everytime I rarely had an cracks in my flares.

I used all Jegs black AN fittings which seem to be of good quality but considerably cheaper than say Earl's. I did use the expensive stainless flexible lines (Perform-o-flex). Also the Summit hose cutters worked really well. Koul tools really helped for the smaller lines (-6 and -4 for the radiator overflow).

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
http://www.koultools.com/

I just don't have the patience to get all the wires in for the smaller hoses. With Koul tools it was super easy to start them.

[1969CamaroRS]

Making custom brackets and stuff is fun. Very time consuming but fun. What is about making a custom bracket that no one will probably ever see but you still have to make it look good?

Case in point I needed to make a bracket to hold my trans and oil coolers in place. It needed to go across the front of the radiator across the support. I took some aluminum channel 1-1/2 wide by about 32" long:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/04/CoolingSystem007-1.jpg

After mocking it up, drilling the mounting holes in it I drilled some vent holes in it so it wouldn't block too much air coming across the radiator and the coolers. Then powder coated it black (sorry forgot to take a pic of it not mounted):
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/04/CoolingSystem011-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/04/CoolingSystem009-1.jpg

Talk about just barely fitting. Between the center latch support and the RS doors and the cooler fittings I was just barely able to get everything to clear when the RS doors are all the way open (you non-RS folks have it easy :D )

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/04/CoolingSystem012-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/04/CoolingSystem015-1.jpg

The trans cooler isn't positioned perfectly (some of the radiator support blocks it) but it was as close to the center support as possible and far enough from the RS door as it could be. I found if I positioned the cooler just right I could get the back side of the door to give me a bit more clearance for the fittings. Hopefully with the top and bottom sealed up I should get some pretty good air flow through the coolers and radiator.

I have one of those panels that closes out the space between the radiator support and the front valance so after it is buttoned up no one will be able to see all this:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/04/CoolingSystem014-1.jpg

But it was still very fun making that bracket, I can however peek through the grill from time to time:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/04/CoolingSystem017-1.jpg

[1969CamaroRS]

Installed a top closeout panel (from Undercover innovations Derel was kind of enough to add a ball mill option on their new two piece panels, nice guy to deal with):
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/05/EngineInstall084-1.jpg

Been routing brake lines, had to swap out some rear flex lines as they were rubbing on one of the axle tabs for the G-Bar.

Also installed a line lock here is some pics:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/05/EngineInstall087-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/05/EngineInstall085-1.jpg

Still have some minor adjustment/shortening of the brake lines to get them away from the headers a bit.

Bracket is made out of 1/8" thick steel that was polished (can't believe I spent the time to do that) and then powder coated clear. My first time trying the clear and I guess the heat discolored the clear or the steel a bit, now has a bronze tint to it, but I think looks interesting.

[1969CamaroRS]

Still messing with brakes. I found a slight drag on the rear rotors (when trying to set the parking brake). For kicks decided to measure the run out. Found 0.010" (Drv) to 0.015" (pass) runout along the rotor. Removing the rotor I found 0.005" runout on both axles.

Called Moser and the tech said up to 0.008 was within tolerance. Trying to figure out if I should cut the rotors on the car to true them. Trying to get ahold of Noah at Touring-classics to see what he thinks.

For comparison the fronts had less than 0.001 run-out (gauge barely moved).


Welded on my rear brake tabs. Also began installing my Shrifter and new Steering wheel. Decided to replace my turn signal switch while I had things apart. Interesting that the local GM dealer stocked the item (ouch $75).

[1969CamaroRS]

Super quick update:
Was able to get my rear rotor runout down to 0.001 from 0.010-15. Learnt how to use a on-car brake lathe and trued my rotors to the axles. Much better feel as the rear wheel rotates now. I'm stoked.

[Vegas69]

That is the best way to turn a brake rotor without a doubt. It's to bad you have to turn a rotor to make up for axle runout. :bsjerk:

[1994 Python]

Just saw your post for the first time. Love the idea. should be an awesome car when finished.

[1969CamaroRS]

Well a bunch of changes:

Did my own alignment:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/06/Alignment006-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/06/Alignment008-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/06/Alignment010-1.jpg

Got nearly spot-on settings for Camber (-0.5* and Toe In 1/16"), had caster nearly spot on (4.0/4.5*) but then I think something went bonkers with the machine (or something shifted on my frame). All I could get was 2.0* on pass after a minor tweak to toe. Resetting the machine and recalibrating didn't do anything. I had limited time so I just looked as this being a rough alignment I'll have to do another one later once the car is on the road a bit.

Exhaust is in, currently just turned down at the axles:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/06/EngineInstall_Exhaust003-1.jpg

Had to make a custom piece to adjust for one header (/shakes fist at Hooker Headers) pointing down slightly throwing everything off
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/06/EngineInstall_Exhaust002-1.jpg

Not too pretty but fixes the problem completely and the exhaust fits nice.

Still having a problem bleeding rear brakes but had to cut troubleshooting short. Because had to get the car towed home again from the Auto shop at school.

Its a long story but basically the Dean kicked me out. He had a lot of trouble with combining technology schools in a project (Welding, Machining, Engine, Brakes, Suspension). Plus does not like "restoration projects" at all (thou seems to have a lot less objections to imports or faculty member's cars doing the same thing). One would think he would encourage students to push the envelope like the teachers there do but he was very unsupportive. So much so, even threatening to just push the car out on a major street or have towed away.

So anyways the car got towed home but again, but cracked my new front spoiler in two this time, no other damage at least. :bsjerk:

Here is a couple picks right before towing home -

Engine compartment really coming together (can you spot the MSD ignition box in the pic?):
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/06/EngineInstall090-1.jpg

Car ready to tow home:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/06/EngineInstall093-1.jpg

A lot of garage reorganization over the last couple weeks as well as new tools :) I'm surprised how many tools I was used to having access to all the time. Just trying to fill in the gaps so I can keep moving forward.

Took my front grill off. Next step is to try to plumb in the Hydroboost, power steering and cooler. The grill is cracked and the upper valance has damage and is bent where a truck backed into it (bought it that way).
Also the lower running light valance is all bent as well, tried straightening it with a come-along but it is still all tweaked. Thinking of just replacing all three major (upper, lower and grill) pieces since Classic Industries still has their 20% off sale going on and its mostly apart.

Also started mocking up the DSE RS electric conversion. While doing so figured out the old RS doors are nearly rusted out, got to replace those as well.

I figure if I can get the power steering taken car of and the front end pieces replaced that will wrap up pretty much everything non-electrical / interior and then I can concentrate on insulating the interior and installing all the new electrical goodies.

[Motown 454]

Nice to see the progress . Boy that dean sucks big time..

[Crazy4Speed]

Sick BBC man I just got me a 454 block and look to stroke it to 468ci and toss on some nitrous. Then dropping it into a 69 Chevelle and see if I can scare my neighbors.

[tones2SS]

Sick BBC man I just got me a 454 block and look to stroke it to 468ci and toss on some nitrous. Then dropping it into a 69 Chevelle and see if I can scare my neighbors.

I like your thinking!!
Project Sleeper looks really good! Color is awesome and so is the BBC!

[1969CamaroRS]

Thanks all for the compliments!

[T_Raven]

Great looking car! Nice to see those wheels on a blue 69, I'm trying to choose wheels for my 69 Firebird that'll be blue.

[jtm311]

Great work!! I had the same problem with Hookers on mine I also had to correct the angle of my flanges. Mine tilted up :machine:

John

[1969CamaroRS]

Sorry for not updating sooner. Progress has been at a snail's pace. Had to move my parents into a assisted living place, dad in an out of the hospital, work busy. When the car was at school, I was probably able to work on it 4-5 hours a day 5 days a week. Now I'm lucky if I do 4 hours in a week (if that).

I did however manage to finish installing the exhaust and hangers (still just dumped before rear axle).

Started test fitting some 6.5" speakers in the rear package tray (felt like fiddling that day).

Rebuilt the entire RS door mechanisms with new parts (the existing ones all the bushings were shot and a lot of rusty parts).

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/08/CoolingSystem031-1.jpg

Routed all the power steering hoses and installed a power steering cooler (pictured above between oil and trans coolers):
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/01/HoseRouting002-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/01/HoseRouting003-1.jpg

Routed P/S return on the subframe (with tiagon tubing over the braided line) back to the P/S pump. (very tight under there with those big -10 hoses).

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/01/HoseRouting004-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/01/HoseRouting005-1.jpg

Installed Amsoil's bypass oil filter system kit. Its a nice kit came with mostly everything you needed. I had to buy a few more fittings and extra hose to route it as I wanted. Ended up being a pain to route the hoses around my oil pan and headers (not Amsoil's issue), but with some extra fittings and hose was able to get it done.

I really like the nice clean look under the hood:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/01/HoseRouting-1.jpg

Maybe in the future if I need it I'll do some type of oil priming plus reserve (ala Canton).

Took most of the paint off the trunk, starting mocking up rear battery installation, decided to switch from a Moroso battery box to a Optima Battery with hold down. Just seemed easier to for cable routing. Looked like to me with the battery box, I'd almost have to permanently install the battery (least with the 0000 cables I want to run).

Currently working on the trunk and battery along with perhaps a rear firewall between the trunk and passenger compartment. Trying to figure out how the best way to route the battery cables through the firewall w/o having to buy a expensive crimper for this one use (since I want to run the 0000ga starter and ground).

Thinking of bolting on and sealing the firewall, looks like attaching a single piece from the trunk side to the package tray divider might be the easiest way to close it off. Looking for a non-permanent solution (rather than welding it up).

[Jasons72]

Did you make your belly pan or buy it? It looks awesome and i've been thinking about something like that.

[1969CamaroRS]

Got it from Undercover innovations:

http://www.undercoverinnovations.com/Camaro1Lower.htm

[1969CamaroRS]

Work slowed down a bunch so I have been able to spend more time on the car.

Started pulling the entire interior out in prep to route battery cables:

Floors where not too bad:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/12/InteriorFloor002-1.jpg

Except for bunch of rust in the passengers floor area:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/12/InteriorFloor001-1.jpg


So I stripped the entire interior down to bare metal using an angle grinder with wire wheel cupped brush:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/12/InteriorFloor004-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/12/InteriorFloor006-1.jpg

This is one of the messiest jobs I have ever done, not much fun at all.

Also stripped the trunk (really got up and into as much as I could with a wirewheel on an angle grinder):

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/12/InteriorFloor009-1.jpg

I gotta say I really hate the body shop that plastered my trunk with tons of bondo trying to hide the rust and holes. When I looked at the car when I bought it, it certainly looked ok. But once I started to stripe the trunk you could immediate tell something was up with all the bondo. Basically I need a full trunk pan, but not going to deal with it now I want to get it running.

One of the many holes:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/12/TrunkStart004-1.jpg

About to pull off the top headliner and do the same to the top.

Mocked up a rear firewall that is bolt on:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/11/TrunktoPassangerFirewall004-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/12/TrunktoPassangerFirewall003-1.jpg

Bought Summit's kit for a drive-shaft loop and modded it to fit my application (also made some reinforcement plates):
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/12/DriveshaftLoop004-1.jpg

Had hoped to install one in both the front (near the trans) and rear (near rear axle), but the rear one is out there is simply not enough room near the axle due to the large 3" exhaust.

[1969CamaroRS]

Hard to take a good pic of the driveshaft loop with the car 2 feet off the ground:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/12/DriveshaftLoop006-1.jpg

Was able to get it within 6" of the centerline of the u-joint so should hopefully pass tech.

Doesn't look too bad from the interior side:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/12/DriveshaftLoop005-1.jpg


In process for mocking up the rear battery placement and measuring for battery and electrical cables to go the front the car.

Drilled several holes in the floor boards for bulkhead fittings (drilling big holes in good floors is scary ):
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/12/Bulkheadfitting-1.jpg

Mostly trying to juggle the very beginning of electrical and should be starting to paint and then insulate the interior.

Thinking of putting Damplier Pro and their Thermal block product on the roof. And a mix of Damplier Pro + Lizard Skin (have a bunch left) on the floor / doors with some Heatwave Pro around the trans tunnel and Luxury Liner Pro (more Second skin products) on the floor, then run the battery, ground and B+ cables over this then lay the carpet.

[36couper]

Incredible work and patience of a saint! Can I drop my Nova off for you to clean up? :)

[1969CamaroRS]

Incredible work and patience of a saint! Can I drop my Nova off for you to clean up? :)

Thanks! That was sure one messy job and I'm all out of wire-cupped brushes :razz:

[johnny68]

build is comeing along great i need to thank you for that tub install you did i refered to you build numerous times while doing mine even thou ive got a nova yours was more informational than dse instructions,, good job one thing i would change on your car you might consider is welding in the g bar im doing same set up, i just wouldnt trust it being screwed onto frame just fyi
john

[1969CamaroRS]

build is comeing along great i need to thank you for that tub install you did i refered to you build numerous times while doing mine even thou ive got a nova yours was more informational than dse instructions,, good job

Thanks John for all the kind words.



one thing i would change on your car you might consider is welding in the g bar im doing same set up, i just wouldnt trust it being screwed onto frame just fyi
john

Actually did weld in the G-Bar rear cradle (post #23), just didn't post any pictures of it:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/12/WeldingRearCradle002-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/12/WeldingRearCradle003-1.jpg

I too was worried about not welding it in since I plan on driving the car hard and attending auto X, road-race events. Thanks for the suggestion thou :hail:

[1969CamaroRS]

Started pulling headliner out. Pretty much one of the few areas (other than body / paint) that I haven't pulled out or redone yet:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/12/Headliner001-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/12/Headliner004-1.jpg

headliner wasn't too bad except for one tear near the dome light:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/12/Headliner007-1.jpg

But since had the rest of the interior apart and was planning on sound deadening and insulating the interior figured I might as well do the complete interior. Also my car came with white interior with blue dash:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/12/CamaroInside-1.jpg
that I am thinking of changing to a black interior and since the headliner was blue was going to need changing anyways.

Anyways took a few reference pic/measurements also started labeling all the headliner bows:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/12/Headliner017-1.jpg

Was thinking I could maybe get the headliner out in one piece w/o ripping it, but after going slow a few rips later and I was tearing it apart. I was able to get the rear sail panels out in one piece with the tack stripes intact. So far the roof looks good. Most of the original padding seems to be in-place and intact:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/12/Headliner026-1.jpg

Next up the messy part of scraping the ceiling.

[1969CamaroRS]

... arms very tired ...

After a lot of scraping the roof was able to remove all old insulation/padding. My best friend was a sharped putty knife I sacrificed for this task. Odd thing was as I was taking off the old insulation I saw really nice unrusted roof:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/12/Headliner028-1.jpg

But by the time I had taken off the entire amount of insulation the entire roof had flash-rusted:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/12/Headliner030-1.jpg

Must have been some reaction of the glue + bare metal and the open air.

Probably the messiest job I have ever done. I can't remember a time I was dirtier and that includes grinding the paint off the trunk/floor or when mini-tubbing.

I played the racoon(had safety googles on and mask), this is what the mask looked like:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/12/Headliner033-1.jpg


The padding disintegrates into almost something like thick potting soil even looks that way too:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/12/Headliner029-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/12/Headliner034-1.jpg

So now with all the padding off I hit the ceiling with a wire cupped brush:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/12/Headliner037-1.jpg

I was a bit concerned with the paint on the roof so I went slow and kept checking the paint on the roof, but didn't notice anything. But by the time I was done with the 2nd panel (took a couple hour break between panels) looks like my paint started to bubble on the roof:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/12/Headliner039-1.jpg

Any ideas from keeping this from happening elsewhere? Just go slower? Had been feeling the panels to make sure they didn't get very hot (kept moving to another area if it did start getting hot to touch).

Happy about nice solid interior roof, not so much on the actual exterior roof paint. Kind of scratching my head on this one. Just poor panel prep? I am pretty sure whoever did the paint kind of half-assed it maybe this is another sign I need a paint-job.

Which I know is in the future after I have driven the car a bunch. I had been thinking of just getting the dings fixed for the mid-term. I just wanted to enjoy a driver quality paint job and not having to worry if someone dinged me in a parking lot, but the bubbling really looks like crap now.

[johnny68]

is inside roof rusty or do you just want to remove the paint if its the paint get aircraft stripper also that mask looks just like mine im at the point of welding in the tubs
john

[1969CamaroRS]

is inside roof rusty or do you just want to remove the paint if its the paint get aircraft stripper also that mask looks just like mine im at the point of welding in the tubs
john

The inside of the roof flash rusted when I scraped off the old insulation. I don't think its paint or adhesive left rust rust, it feels fairly smooth as the sharpened putty knife pretty much took anything off the roof it could. I just want to clean up the interior so I can paint then insulate it. I'm not planing on exterior painting or anything. I'll try a solvent on the inside and see if it loosens up anything. Thanks for the tip.

[77thor]

Wow, I can't believe the paint bubbled up.... that metal must have gotten really hot.

I will be replacing my headliner this spring... now I'm thinking that I'll just leave the roof insulation alone.

[1969CamaroRS]

Wow, I can't believe the paint bubbled up.... that metal must have gotten really hot.

I will be replacing my headliner this spring... now I'm thinking that I'll just leave the roof insulation alone.

Might not be a bad idea or just satisfy with scraping off the old insulation. Even a combo of using the Mineral Spirits (on interior side) as well as putting wet towels on the roof and going a lot slower and only doing small square like areas and then moved to another side to work on till the other area was cool again, I still got paint bubbling on the roof :(

But at least now I have the ceiling clean:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/12/Headliner040-1.jpg

[1969CamaroRS]

Lots of updates.

After taking most of the interior down to bare metal and roughing up with 240 grit and cleaning up, masked off the roof:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/02/Headliner047-1.jpg

Painted with Eastwood's Rust encapsulator (2 coats) followed by 2 coats of Extreme Chassis black:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/02/Headliner060-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/02/Headliner061-1.jpg

Let it dry for about a week then added Second Skin Audio's Damplier Pro:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/02/Headliner062-1.jpg

Followed by their Thermal Block product and taped up all the edges:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/02/Interior042-1.jpg

[1969CamaroRS]

Finally got the interior floor clean enough to where I would feel comfortable to use Por-15 on it:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/02/Interior006-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/02/Interior007-1.jpg

This is after roughing up the entire floor with 220 grit emery cloth. Then used Por-15's marine clean followed up by their Metal ready product:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/02/Interior015-1.jpg

Figured I couldn't do the entire floor in one sitting with both 2 coats of por-15 then seam seal and chassis black, so figured I would divide up the floor in sections and do a bit at a time.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/02/Interior018-1.jpg

Had to leave myself some place to sit on the floor to reach the back corners
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/02/Interior022-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/02/Interior020-1.jpg

Finished product:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/02/Interior023-1.jpg

[1969CamaroRS]

Rear package tray with closeouts are painted as well and started to put down Second Skin's Damplier Pro:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/02/Interior035-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/02/Interior031-1.jpg

Got all the way up to the firewall. Need to mock-up all my gauges and senders and figure out how everything is going through the firewall before I finish up on the firewall.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/02/Interior036-1.jpg

Still need to do the doors, rear quarter window areas and rear package tray. Planning on putting down heatwave pro as the next layer on the firewall and trans tunnel area and then Luxury liner pro. Overkill pro on the doors.

Started install on Screaming Performance's closeout cans and kickpanels (https://www.pro-touring.com/showthread.php?57007-Custom-kick-panels-for-1st-gen-Camaros)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/02/Interior039-1.jpg

[ModernMuseum]

Very nice. This is going to be a really solid car.

[1969CamaroRS]

Very nice. This is going to be a really solid car.

Thanks, what I am hoping for.

[ModedCB2]

If I understand you stripped the roof of materials... no problem. the paint bubbling came from wire-brushing the rust off... correct? encapsolator would have handled the flash0rust without the grinding & the bubbling.'

I have a Mazda restoration project that has 90+% of the underside treated with Encapsolator, nothing else, after 15,000 street miles, a quick hose down looks great. Por-15 would do a similar job, I prefer Encapsolator personally.

Rob

[1969CamaroRS]

If I understand you stripped the roof of materials... no problem. the paint bubbling came from wire-brushing the rust off... correct? encapsolator would have handled the flash0rust without the grinding & the bubbling.'
Rob

Yep, there was a bunch of residue thou I think from the glue used to hold the roof insulation on. I was concerned that any paint I put on would have trouble adhering, in hindsight maybe I should have risked it. But eventually I plan on paint the exterior of the car.

[HOSTILETAKEOVER]

What is the third electrical bulkhead fitting for? Also, is there a reason you didn't ground from the battery to the frame?

I just spent the last hour going through the entire thread. Very cool build!

[1969CamaroRS]

What is the third electrical bulkhead fitting for?

I'm running a ford solenoid in the trunk, so the battery line is only live during cranking. The 3rd line is for B+.



Also, is there a reason you didn't ground from the battery to the frame? I thought about that, especially with frame connectors. It seems that some recommend using frame ground and others running an explicit ground. I just went the former, figuring its a 40 year old car I should be able to get a better ground off a 4/0 cable than 40 year old metal. I might just end up trying both ways and measuring the voltage drop during cranking and seeing which works better.


I just spent the last hour going through the entire thread. Very cool build!

Thanks for the compliment!

[1969CamaroRS]

Just been plugging away slowly. Built some more rear shelf close outs.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/04/Interior043-1.jpg

Mounted the Morris classic concepts rear 3 point seat belt brackets (very nice system definitely recommended). Part of the closeouts integrated with the MCC brackets as they mount underneath the package tray and the side closeouts I made help sandwich the tray.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/04/Interior053-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/04/Interior054-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/04/Interior055-1.jpg

They are also covered with Dampflier Pro to keep them from rattling.

Took a slight detour and decided that I wanted to listen to some music so wired up my battery and then my amp, head unit and all 9 speakers (front/rear speaker+tweeter pairs and sub)

Using Screaming Performance's kick panels and closeouts:
http://www.screaminperformance.net/camaro_kick_panels.htm

Really liking them:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/02/Interior039-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/04/Interior047-1.jpg


And my temporary wiring for some tunes while I keep working (everything is fused don't want to burn things down before I get the car on the road):
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/04/Interior051-1.jpg

Using Alpine's IDA-x305 for a head unit to control my iTouch (very cool can tranverse my iPod's playlists, artists and genre etc lists). Alpine's PDX-5 to drive all the speakers and 2 sets of Polk Audio's 6-1/2 component speaker systems (MM6501) with their 10" DVC sub (MM1040) for speakers. So far with just a bit of tuning it sounds as good or not better than any car's system I have had. Been listening to it non-stop while working on other stuff.

Definitely the location for the rear dome lights in the sail-panel area is a great place to mount tweeters, as I have the rear tweeters mounted there and they really make the system I think along with the front kick panels.


Put down what I have left of Second Skin Audio's Thermal block product (had used most of it on the roof). Was able to completely cover the firewall, trans tunnel and driver and passenger floor boards (least till where your feet go).
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/04/Interior049-1.jpg

I just wish the stuff wasn't so expensive or I would cover the entire floor with it (almost $300 for 4 sheets or 24sq ft). The rest of the floor will get covered with their Heat wave pro (which I had bought before the Thermal Block product came out). May even double up in some areas like the firewall and trans tunnel over the Thermal block with heat wave pro. Then onto the sound absorbing Luxury liner pro. Doesn't look like I can get much more down underneath the gas pedal thou, probably have to skip some areas if I can still going to fit carpet in.

[Chad-1stGen]

Very nice progress and pics. Major bummer about the paint :(

Just to confirm, you can get 3 point morris belts for the rear and the shoulder portion uses the package tray? No need to remove sail pannels or anything to install?

[johnny68]

ya what chad said im going to be doing same thing with my belt on the nova
john

[1969CamaroRS]

Very nice progress and pics. Major bummer about the paint :(

Thanks, yeah I was bummed for a few days over that paint. But the car needs a paint job ultimately. Now I can drive it when I get it on the road and not worry about people dinging it. Someday I'd like to take some paint and body classes and do my own paint job who knows.



Just to confirm, you can get 3 point morris belts for the rear and the shoulder portion uses the package tray? No need to remove sail pannels or anything to install?


ya what chad said im going to be doing same thing with my belt on the nova
john


Yep its a very nice system. No need to remove anything other than perhaps the rear seat to attach the seat belts. The brackets all bolt in under the package tray (I'll try to get some pics especially when I have it all installed). You will need some shorty drills thou to be able to drill the holes you need other than that very easy install.

[1969CamaroRS]

Here is a quick pic I snapped of the seat belt bracket that mounts underneath:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/04/Interior056-1.jpg

Kind of hard to get a good picture but hopefully helps. It mount with 3 bolts on the top and one on the side to the quarter panel / package tray brace. There is an extra 5th bolt that I added uses an existing bolt hole in the package tray that helps sandwich the close outs on top I made that is not part of the lower bracket. The larger bolt in the foreground is the main mounting point on top for the seat belt.

Probably be a bit before I install the rear seat belts (plan to get the car on the road first and drive it a bit before doing that).

[thirdstreettito]

I like this build, lookin good there Ed! Keep up it up!

[1969CamaroRS]

I like this build, lookin good there Ed! Keep up it up!

Thanks Bradley! Definitely getting closer to final assembly. Just got to get past a little bit more in interior then nothing but electrical left. Really pushing so I can drive it this summer hopefully.

[Chad-1stGen]

Thanks Ed for the info and pic of the seat belt set up.

[johnny68]

thanks Ed i just got my back seat panel and tunnel done now ill order the belts along with the million other parts i need
john

[rfalker1]

love the build, u just inspired me to go with the Polk Audio MM6501 up front since i have the mm's in the back too. Question did you paint your kick panels and secondly, what exactly does the top close out pan do instead of just look awesome

[1969CamaroRS]

Glad the pic helped.


love the build, u just inspired me to go with the Polk Audio MM6501 up front since i have the mm's in the back too. Question did you paint your kick panels and secondly, what exactly does the top close out pan do instead of just look awesome

Thanks Randal :)

I haven't painted the panels at all just left them with their gel coat finish. I'll probably end up painting them SEM Trim black or something, once I have more of my interior I'll figure out what would look good.

The closeout pan is my poor man's rear firewall (since I don't have a welder) my battery is in the rear. I figured it might buy me a few seconds if there was really bad rear collision and there was fire or something. Keep in mind there is 2 more lower closeouts that aren't bolted on in the above pics (due to temporary wiring), and it won't ever be completely closed off due to the speakers but hopefully helps.

Also during most of my build I have been trying to do as little cutting and permanent mods incase there was ever a desire to go back to stock. Probably the only serious permanent mod was the mini-tubbing so far. Everything else could be unbolted and put back. Same with this rear deck firewall its all unboltable. There be a few holes to weld up, but thats about it.

[rfalker1]

Hmmmm, well I have the kick panels being shipped at the moment and the interior black paint ready, I will let you know what it looks likes after we get it painted and installed my interior is also black. Know i understand why you did that with the rear firewall too especially with the battery in the back.
Oh yea after all this i hope u wouldn't go back to stock, just get a new frame and put all your old pieces on it, because i am still trying to figure out what to do with all my old junk

[1969CamaroRS]

Hmmmm, well I have the kick panels being shipped at the moment and the interior black paint ready, I will let you know what it looks likes after we get it painted and installed my interior is also black. Know i understand why you did that with the rear firewall too especially with the battery in the back.
Oh yea after all this i hope u wouldn't go back to stock, just get a new frame and put all your old pieces on it, because i am still trying to figure out what to do with all my old junk

That be cool, I'm hoping to switch to a black interior so that would help. I doubt I'll ever go back to stock but you never can tell in 10-15 years what one might do and its nice having that option.

[jfreakofkorn]

Nice solid build. The car is looking great =)

[rfalker1]

I agree fully, on that especially because u seem to like the stock look "Only because of the name" and how would you undo the mini tub if you where to go back stock??? seems difficult

[1969CamaroRS]

Nice solid build. The car is looking great =)

Thanks!


I agree fully, on that especially because u seem to like the stock look "Only because of the name" and how would you undo the mini tub if you where to go back stock??? seems difficult

I like the look and feel of the classics, just want the performance and handling of a modern car. So I figured keep the looks on the surface and update everything else.

Yeah the mini-tub is the exception to the rule. But unless you are looking under the car I don't think you would really notice it except for the wider tires :smoke:

[rfalker1]

true, so that wouldn't be a problem... I love this build

[1969CamaroRS]

Still plugging away slowly on the electrical, have most of my battery cables made now. Have B+ power up to where the stock battery location is. Test fitted the main dash harness. Got the rear harness in and routed, still have to solder all the rear connections. Waiting for some Packard connectors so I run the DSE wires through the main bulkhead (need 1 male series 59 and they are hard to find only place I could find them was terminal supply co).


Got to thinking I have all these relays for fans, and head lights as well as a bunch of fuses for same and I want to use fuses for the main B+ line for the AAW engine harness as well as the Alternator instead of fusible links. Basically a bunch of fuses and relays. I already hid my MSD ignition and Spal fan controller in the front corner (passenger side) near the stock battery location. There was just enough space between them and the radiator to stick all this stuff. But since I am trying to hide all the electrical and routing it around the inner fenders I figured I would hide all these fuses and relays in a box.

First I found this for my fuse requirements:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
http://bluesea.com/products/7748

I was needing something that could handle 150amps for my alternator, as well as going down to 30amp fuses for a bunch of relays and ignition etc. Even has a negative bus bar as well. Can handle 6x ATO (1-30A) fuses and 4x MIDI (30-200A) fuses, perfect for my application.

This is what I have so far:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/06/ElectricalBox001-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/06/ElectricalBox002-1.jpg

Able to pack quite a lot in a small package. Basically the big 2gauge red at the far left feeds the main fuse box, the other 2 gauge is fused at 150amp for alternator input, black 2 gauge feeds the negative bus bar. I have a 60amp fuse for the main B+ line of the AAW engine harness, 30amp MIDI fuse for the MSD ignition. One 30amp fuse for the headlight relays and 2x 30amp fuses for the electric fans. Still have room for 4 more fuses for expandability in the future.

I'll end up painting the box black and should hopefully disappear on the radiator support. I'll make some stand-offs out of 1" aluminum round stock to mount the box:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/06/ElectricalBox003-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/06/ElectricalBox004-1.jpg

Also put some metri-pack connectors on the low current wires so I can pull the box easily if needed.

[rfalker1]

that is really impressive.... Keep up the good work and glad to see that you are still plugging away

[Dons67]

You are doing a fantastic job!! Keep up the good work

[1969CamaroRS]

Thanks Randal and Don for the compliments!

[Motown 454]

It looks good Ed , nice work.

[DriverzInc]

Looking good Ed!

[FRENCHBLUE72]

Just spent all morning reading about your build. Keep up the good work too bad about the shop teacher..

[1969CamaroRS]

Looking good Ed!
Thanks Jon :)


Just spent all morning reading about your build. Keep up the good work too bad about the shop teacher..

Yeah ends up that he got a really show of support so it looks like hopefully the engine rebuilding/machining class is saved.

[1969CamaroRS]

Still plunking away. Took a TIG Welding class and narrowed rear seat frames. Used the instructions found in this thread as a baseline:
http://www.lateral-g.net/forums/showthread.php4?t=28606

This is what I started with:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/02/SeatFrames002-1.jpg

Ended up touching up all the spot welds since some of them looked pretty shakey. Also added a few extra bars for reinforcement as well. Now the frame is nice and solid.

One of the welds:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/02/SeatFrames003-1.jpg

Powder Coated:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/02/SeatFrames005-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/02/SeatFrames006-1.jpg

In the car with Arizen Racing seats (front) and matching rear cover:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/02/Carseats003-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/02/Carseats002-1.jpg

Bad news is found out later I was losing my job of 10 years. So budget for anything car related pretty much dried up, thou I have lots of time now lol. Slowly trying to finish up electrical (have most everything done now except rear wiring taillights etc).

Decided with all this time to polish this 4" aluminum "L" bracket that I am using to mount fuses, cut off switch etc to in the trunk. This is what I started with:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/02/BatteryConnectorBracket003-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/02/BatteryConnectorBracket001-1.jpg

And ended with:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/02/BatteryConnectorBracket006-1.jpg


Used a flat disc set of grinding pads in 60/80/120 on my air die grinder.
180 emery cloth down to about 600 or so.
Back with 300 wet sanding down to 2000 grit.
Switched to coarse rubbing compound with dual action sander with a coarse bonnet, then to medium and fine (bonnet + compound)
Ended up getting the finest microfiber cloth I could find and used Mother's Billet polish by hand to put the final finish on.


Got to the point where I was putting more scratches in than I was taking off so I basically called it quits then. Spent way too much time on it but never had tried polishing aluminum like this. Ended up having it powder coated, which dulled the finish a bit but it is now pretty durable, hardly anyone but me will every see it anyways.

Good news ended up getting a really good new job so now I'll have money again but little time, but I am so close now to having electrical done I'm hoping momentum will carry me to starting it up.

[MARBIL]

lost your job and got a another better one in the same post,
Go buy a lottery ticket man!
car is looking awesome, keep at it your sooo close

[1969CamaroRS]

lost your job and got a another better one in the same post,
Go buy a lottery ticket man!
car is looking awesome, keep at it your sooo close

Thanks Marbil. Well it was over several months and definitely a stressful time but did work out in the end. And I did follow your advice and bought a lottery ticket :smoke:

[rfalker1]

Love the seats!! I got the same kind in mine, way to get the new job too!!

[1969CamaroRS]

Well been a long time since my last update. My new job really hasn't left much time for working on the car, but to be expected in the first year, gotta prove myself. But it has been a rough year, my dad ended up dying, but got through it all.

Had been contemplating a new 5th since they came out. Wife finally decided for me that it was time to jump in. A few years ago I had given her, her dream car around Christmas (Suby Outback), so she returned the favor:

2013 Camaro SS2/RS - 1LE in Ashen Grey Metallic with NPP performance exhaust and nav:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/01/20121228_122829_zps72c45815-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/01/ElectricCar_zps96aecbc4-1.jpg

Car is such a blast and fun to drive and really a head turner. Picked it up a week ago last Friday and already have over 350 miles on it and on my 3rd tank of gas.

Already some stuff mostly appearance (blacked out emblem kits etc), and a Bluetooth ODB-2 reader so I can use torque on my Android phone. Trying to get a good feel for the stock vehicle before I start with engine and suspension mods.

I'm a little torn, I swore to myself before I wouldn't get a new 5th gen until I had my 69 Camaro vehicle on the road. Basically all the electrical is done just been hunting down gremlins (oil pressure gauge doesn't work, fuel leak), but it has been started in my garage just haven't gone around the block yet.

On my todo list for the 2013:

Appearance/Interior/Misc:


Window Tinting
Some sort of BA amp upgrade swap with a sub (been looking at Subthump's offerings)
Heritage Grill and ZL1 Rockers
(Maybe) afterburners or sequential taillights (been looking at Apex's offering)
Some sort of custom license plate frame, but can't figure out a good saying yet



Performance (once I get used to the '13 and after the '69 is on the road):


Cold air induction with washer relocate and new scoop
Shorty headers (not sure whose yet)
Ported Intake and possibly ported throttle body
Some sort of tuning software (HP Tuners?) to take advantage of the increased breath-ability of the CAI and headers, intake and TB.
Pedders Rear sub-frame bushings and front radius arm bushings
(Maybe) Pedders rear 32mm bar and switching over to their magic 19" Forge-line wheel setup with 305s all around with coil overs (far off, plus really liking the ZL1 wheels).
(Maybe way down the road)Supercharging



Be nice to start going to some autocross gatherings try my hand a bit.