The Novice's guide to mini-tubbing a 68-69 Camaro

[1969CamaroRS]

[WARNING Image intensive].

I recently finished mini-tubbing my 69 Camaro and I thought I would share my experience and photos. When I was attempting to do this project I found a few documented installs but it still left a lot of questions. Hopefully this guide will help answer a few more questions.

First I took a welding class in prep to be able to tackle this project. If you don't know how to weld I think you can still get 90% of the way there and then just hire (or bribe a buddy with some beer) to come in and weld everything up once you have everything fitting how you want it. Getting everything fitted properly was 90%+ of the battle.

Keep in mind I had never done any metal/sheet work before. The goal wasn’t a perfect show install but one that would pass as factory work so that you couldn’t tell a mini-tubbing had been done. I don’t claim to be an expert; I am novice and so take everything I say with a grain of salt. There also probably better ways of doing things. Feel free to make suggestions and corrections.

This is not intended to be a guide on how to learn to weld; I am too much a novice at welding, so I am going to gloss over the welding and technique.

Also keep in mind that in my install I didn’t have to deal with putting in a new upper shock cross-member as I was going with a G-Bar.

I am a visual person so I took lots of pictures during the project and will use them to describe how I completed the project.

Tools:
* Common automotive tools
* Plasma Cutter (if you can beg borrow or steal one), it will make this project go 10x faster than other methods. 2nd choice would be air cut-off wheel (buy lots of cut-off discs).
* Angle Grinder with cupped wire brush (for taking off undercoating and paint).
* Lots of C-Clamps and/or long bar clamps (like used in wood working)
* Protective clothing, mask and goggles.
* MIG welder if you are going to do your own welding.
* Drill and assorted drill bits
* Spot weld removal tool (makes drilling spot welds a lot faster, but you can do without it)
* Scribe (for drawing lines on metal).
* Rotisserie if you can manage it, it would make life super easy on a project like this. Not necessary but like the plasma cutter would make it go extremely faster.


Going to try to break this down in very short descriptive steps:

1. Properly support vehicle.
2. Remove all rear suspension component, gas tank etc.
3. Remove rear trunk lid and everything from the trunk.
4. Remove interior (front seats too you are going to be working a lot in here you need the room).
5. Now the fun starts, use the angle grinder with wire cupped brush and begin to clean off the paint and undercoating in the wheel wells:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/08/MiniTub003-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/08/MiniTub001a-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/08/MiniTub002-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/08/MiniTub001-1.jpg

In these pics I cleaned off more than I needed to. You really only need to find the welds that hold the rear seat brackets and deck lid braces. After that you can cut out the inner tub:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/08/MiniTub007-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/08/MiniTub010-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/08/MiniTub012-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/08/MiniTub011-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/08/MiniTub013-1.jpg

[1969CamaroRS]

6. Next find the welds on the inside of the trunk that hold the deck lid braces to the inner tubs:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/08/MiniTub006-1.jpg

One thing that wasn't clear is, you need to resuse the deck lid braces. Make sure you are easy on them or you are going to need to fabricate new ones (DSE doesn't give you templates for this).

7. Now drill out the welds. For the ones holding to the inner tubs it is probably easier from the outside to do but inside might be easier to make sure you can resuse the braces.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/08/MiniTub014-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/08/MiniTub015-1.jpg

I drilled them out from inside where I could then finished by drilling outside:[
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/08/MiniTub016-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/08/MiniTub017-1.jpg

Drill out the rear seat braces as well where it is held in place inside:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/08/MiniTub018-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/08/MiniTub019-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/08/MiniTub020-1.jpg

[1969CamaroRS]

8. Follow the DSE instructions on drawing the lines you need. One thing that wasn't clear was how to get the radius at the end properly. What I did was take some paper and scribe the mini-tubs outline on the paper then take the paper and using it as a guide to scribe the same outline lining up with the lines I had already drawn:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/08/MiniTub022-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/08/MiniTub023-1.jpg

I used to a scribe to draw all my lines.

9. Next is actually cutting out the inner tub. I cut just inside of the seam as my first cut:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/08/MiniTub024-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/08/MiniTub025-1.jpg

Now you want to cut as close as you can to the inner tub so you can remove it cleanly. That will allow you make the additional cuts you need to make enough room for the new tubs:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/08/MiniTub026-1.jpg

Plan on being in the trunk a lot for cutting, grinding and welding:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/08/MiniTub026a-1.jpg

Once you have the tubs out it should look something like this:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/08/MiniTub027-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/08/MiniTub030-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/08/MiniTub029-1.jpg

[1969CamaroRS]

10. Now cut on your lines to remove the upper shock mounts and cut back the rear frame rail. I would cut short of the line you scribed. You can always cut more later. You want to cut just enough to fit the tubs and nothing more. I would cut short and grind to fit. Takes a lot longer but gives a much tighter cleaner install.

Just a bit more room:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/08/MiniTub031-1.jpg

Make sure to grind flush the top edge where you cut out the inner tub. You want it nice and clean so you can mount the new tubs to that flange:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/08/MiniTub033-1.jpg

I found that I need to clearance bit the tabs that had the old seat brace brackets so I could fit the mini-tubs in properly:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/08/MiniTub034-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/08/MiniTub032-1.jpg

11. Now fold over your flaps as directed in the DSE instructions:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/08/MiniTub037-1.jpg

12. Clean up the cutout areas of the frame rails. I used the DSE templates to make sure the proper area was clear, although you could just make different close outs. But I wanted to follow the directions as close as possible since I had never done anything like this before:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/08/MiniTub038-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/08/MiniTub039-1.jpg

13. Try to get the cut lines as straight as you can. They don't have to be perfect as you can kind of bend the mini-tub into place once it is in. You just need enough room so you can pop it in and get it placed correctly:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/08/MiniTub040-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/08/MiniTub041-1.jpg

[1969CamaroRS]

14. Now fabricate your close outs. This is where the plasma cutter or even a band saw with a metal cutting blade will really pay off. If none are available use your cut-off wheel. I drilled and counter sunk the holes for spot welding:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/08/MiniTub041b-1.jpg

I also used a cutting torch (oxy acetylene) to heat up and bend the close outs to the proper radius to fit my open frame rails. It is much easier to bend 1/8" steel when it is red hot.

15. Now mock up the closeouts. This where the C-Clamps and Bar clamps come in really useful:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/08/MiniTub046-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/08/MiniTub043-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/08/MiniTub042-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/08/MiniTub044-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/08/MiniTub045-1.jpg

Grind flush as necessary.

[1969CamaroRS]

16. Now weld up the closeouts. Either do it yourself or leave that trail of mixed nuts to the six pack next to the welder for your buddy (dont WUI thou):
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/08/MiniTub047-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/08/MiniTub054-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/08/MiniTub050-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/08/MiniTub052-1.jpg


A comment on my welding. In the class I took I was decent at running a bead on a bench, but welding in the conditions for mini-tubbing is a complete different story. I am picky when it comes to my car and the work I do. So I had to grind down my welds a few times until I got what I considered acceptable looking welds. They still aren't what I would consider good, but this is all going to be painted anyways.

17. Now drill holes in the tubs for the spot welds. Draw the lines on the front back like in the DSE Video:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/08/MiniTub056-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/08/MiniTub057-1.jpg

18. Mock it all up. Use the C-Clamps to get everything nice and tight. You want ZERO (0) gaps if possible:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/08/MiniTub058-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/08/MiniTub059-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/08/MiniTub061-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/08/MiniTub062-1.jpg

You probably going to need a buddy help you an push down on the edges when you are ready to tack.

[1969CamaroRS]

19. Buy more beer for your buddy, since it is time to weld up the inner tubs:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/08/MiniTub063-1.jpg

I welded up the inside seam between the inner tub and the trunk floor. This wasn't explict that I could tell in the video, but other installs looked like they did it this way:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/08/MiniTub064-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/08/MiniTub065-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/08/MiniTub068-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/08/MiniTub069-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/08/MiniTub070-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/08/MiniTub071-1.jpg

After grinding a bit and cleaning up with a wire cupped brush on a grinder:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/08/MiniTub074-1.jpg

20. Now take the old deck lid braces and shorten them (I had pictures but somehow got misplaced). You are going ot need to do some custom fitment to make them just long enough to reach but not too long so that you can get them flush and get a good weld:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/08/MiniTub079-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/08/MiniTub080-1.jpg

[1969CamaroRS]

21. Time for welding in the rear seat braces:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/08/MiniTub082-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/08/MiniTub083-1.jpg

22. Grind down all spot welds and clean them up with a wire-wheel. You will probably find some spots that need more welding like I did, fix those spots as you find them. Pretty much everything should be welded now and should look nice and tight:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/08/MiniTub085-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/08/MiniTub086-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/08/MiniTub089-1.jpg

23. Seam sealing, one of the most important steps (least if you care about rust):
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/08/MiniTub101-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/08/MiniTub103-1.jpg

I used Eastwood's Seam sealer.

24. Prime and Paint, I used Eastwoods Extreme Chassis black and primer on the tubs:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/08/MiniTub116-1.jpg

You probably want to consider what you want to do for undercoating to protect them. I went with Lizardskin soundproofing formula and their ceramic heat insulation formula:

before:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/08/MiniTub001-1.jpg

after:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/08/LizardSkin026-1.jpg

It dries a medium grey but really darkens over the course of about a week to dark grey.


I cleaned the entire undercarriage as well and painted it too (might as well make everything match). In person it looks pretty close to a factory finish. It isn't perfect by any means but my goal was a stock look and I think I succeeded. I may paint the underside with my leftover chassis black paint not sure, want to see how much it will darken (right now putting in rear suspension going to need to weld in the G-Bar frame anyways so more painting will happen after).

------------------------------------------------------------------


I hope others find this guide useful and informative. If you have any suggestions or corrections feel free to post them and I'll try and make updates.


A special thanks to my instructor at school. As well as Frank from Prodigy for setting me up with the Deep tubs, G-Bar and Moser 12 bolt.

[Gandalf]

Awesome write-up! Thanks for posting this. I can't wait to see the G-Bar install.

G.

[ls1 nova]

Great write-up. Love seeing detailed pics.

[1969CamaroRS]

Thanks for all the nice comments.

----------------------

Here is a list of resources I found helpful as well:

Obviously the DSE instructions and Video I found actually helped (I can't count the times I watched the video). Also DSE support was very helpful during the install answering all my questions.

Here is list of other installs I found online (feel free to add your own):

ATS - Colin Onaka’s 69 Camaro
http://www.t56kit.com/projects/onaka/

SteveN nice writeup:
http://www.pbase.com/steven69/minitubs

Super Chevy Article
http://www.superchevy.com/tech/0409sc_deep_tub_wheel_houses/index.html

Mike Provencher's 67
http://hometown.aol.com/__121b_7l7+cGztldYzcqay1BdqXPtX4iTYlqGXwy6qjTTuzHo =

DSE FAQ
http://www.detroitspeed.com/faq/faq.htm

Lugnutz 67 Minitub
http://www.lugnutz.com/67mtub.htm

LS1 Nova's Minitub picture thread:
https://www.pro-touring.com/forum/showthread.php?t=45572

Additional Mini-tub pics from my install:
http://s328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Suspension%20and%20Brakes/Rear%20Suspension/Mini-Tub/

[7TSS]

Good job on this mini tutorial. Pics help a lot as well as the other links. :twothumbs

[DIK069]

Thanks for the tips & pics, just about to do this as well.

[Damn True]

Well done on the writeup.

[Damn True]

Boy, your spot welds are in a nice straight line. Mine....not so much.

[1969CamaroRS]

Boy, your spot welds are in a nice straight line. Mine....not so much.

Thanks! It was just a matter of drilling the holes straight:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/08/MiniTub057-1.jpg

[Damn True]

No, I meant the original wheelhouse/tub spotwelds. Mine were really messy.

[1969CamaroRS]

No, I meant the original wheelhouse/tub spotwelds. Mine were really messy.

Oh, okay gotcha. Maybe it was late Friday when they did that to your car.

How far long the Mini-tub process are you?

[Damn True]

I have one side OE tub cut out, doing the other side tonight and maybe getting started on cutting the floor.

[poormans69]

One of the best write ups to date. Great job! I like pictures.

[ItDoRun]

Okay, I've been fighting the driver side tub now for a while (weeks) trying to figure out why it appears to be leaning in towards the wheel well. I notched the floor 2-3/4" like DSE recommended. The passenger side fits like a glove, but this drivers side is about to make me pull my hair out. It's real close, but I want to get it as perfect as possible.

When I install the tub, I have a 1/2" to 5/8" gap at the top where it clamps to the outer wheelhouse lip, however, when I clamp it, obviously the gap goes away and I'm not touching the closeout panels I fabricated. To me, that makes me think it's not in a bind, but it sure does look like it.

Here's a few pictures.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

What do you guys think?

[grump]

Looking really good :twothumbs

[1969CamaroRS]

I think it looks good. You could always do like I did and get some really long bar clamps and clamp the tubs together from underneath the car might make things a bit closer.

I think you are almost there for welding.

[qwik1320]

Great write up - keep the pics coming, I'm planning on doing mine this summer.

[Steve1968LS2]

Let me tell ya that doing a convertable is a whole other ballgame.. worked on one today and it's much harder.

[Topless69]

Gee thanks steve for verifing what i hoped wasnt true, I just read that somewhere. I was tossing the idea around in my head but that looks a bit over my head.:hand:

[67 ls1 vert]

Hey Steve, how is it harder to do a convertible? I'm about to start on mine. Any tips?

[1969CamaroRS]

Hey Steve, how is it harder to do a convertible? I'm about to start on mine. Any tips?

Yeah, do tell, interested as well! Is it just a much more cramped space?

[Patrick]

Nice write up... I just wish this was around when I did mine.

[Black67SS]

Has anybody considered or tried widening the stock rear wheel tubs on a 67' Camaro.Heres my problem.I'm in Canada and the cost of the tubs from DSE are $399 us plus $150 to ship converted to Canadian is $608 not including duty,tax and brokeridge fees which is applied to everything imported from the US.So my mindset is I shoud be able to do this for alot less being a Journyman Bodyman.Is this venture worth while or am I better off to bite the bullet on the DSE tubs?I want to retain the stock appearance so pro street style tubs are out of the question.

[jag4902]

Thanks for the great write-up and all the effort.

Getting ready to work on mine.

[prep_jerks]

Hi I am considering mini tubing my 1971 Chevy Nova to fit a set of nice meaty tire but I want to know if you have to move the shock mounts? If so, where and are there specific parts I need to use?

[1969CamaroRS]

Not sure about a 71 Nova but on the Camaro you would have had to weld in a new upper shock tower if I had kept the leaf springs. With the G-Bar I didn't have to that.

Check out DSE for your 71 Nova they have the upper shock mount in a kit or separate:

http://www.detroitspeed.com/productpages/rear_suspension6874nova.htm

[jtm311]

Nice work... Looks good.

John

[BMR Tech]

Has anybody considered or tried widening the stock rear wheel tubs on a 67' Camaro.Heres my problem.I'm in Canada and the cost of the tubs from DSE are $399 us plus $150 to ship converted to Canadian is $608 not including duty,tax and brokeridge fees which is applied to everything imported from the US.So my mindset is I shoud be able to do this for alot less being a Journyman Bodyman.Is this venture worth while or am I better off to bite the bullet on the DSE tubs?I want to retain the stock appearance so pro street style tubs are out of the question.

I did that on my '69 before the DSE tubs were available. It's not too much harder and if you have metal fab skills and body work experience it can be done and look very similar when finished. Cutting the inner tub out in such a way that it can be re-used is the most important part of the job. Once that is done, the rest is just welding, seam sealing, and bodywork.

[jknox67]

great post! Finish product looks good

[Cdog]

Okay, I've been fighting the driver side tub now for a while (weeks) trying to figure out why it appears to be leaning in towards the wheel well. I notched the floor 2-3/4" like DSE recommended. The passenger side fits like a glove, but this drivers side is about to make me pull my hair out. It's real close, but I want to get it as perfect as possible.

When I install the tub, I have a 1/2" to 5/8" gap at the top where it clamps to the outer wheelhouse lip, however, when I clamp it, obviously the gap goes away and I'm not touching the closeout panels I fabricated. To me, that makes me think it's not in a bind, but it sure does look like it.

Here's a few pictures.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

What do you guys think?

I'm doing my 67 right now and found the same thing. Most of the bind is coming from the area in the car that's tabbed. I fitted it in last night and hung up my gloves at 12:30. Look for gaps to be 1/4 inch or so because you can always push on the tub to take up the gap.

[Cdog]

My tubs must be a little screwy. I have a hole towards the rear. I can fill in the hole. Seems the 67's are different as the templates were way off. I had to make my own. Here's my results so far.

Update!! I contacted DSE and this gap exists due to the 67 not having the staggered shock set up like the 68 and 69's. These are Camaro tubs.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/03/IMG_5385-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/03/IMG_5386-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/03/IMG_5387-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/03/IMG_5388-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/03/IMG_5389-1.jpg

[1969CamaroRS]

Almost like the trunk hump is further back or something.

[Damn True]

I wonder if those were maybe Nova tubs?

[Cdog]

Does it have something to do with the 67 not having the staggered shocks? The stencils on the DSE cd rom were way off too.

[1969CamaroRS]

Does it have something to do with the 67 not having the staggered shocks? The stencils on the DSE cd rom were way off too.

I think True probably hit it on the head, you probably have a Nova's set or something. It shouldn't be that far off.

[67 ls1 vert]

maybe wrong but do you think you have the right on the left and left on the right?

[Cdog]

maybe wrong but do you think you have the right on the left and left on the right?


Can't put them in backwards. These fit. I just have the gap that I'll weld a little fill piece in. The tubs mate up with no problems.

Update!! I contacted DSE and this gap exists due to the 67 not having the staggered shock set up like the 68 and 69's. These are Camaro tubs.

[Conrad283]

Great write up. I plan on using this if I need to tub my nova

[senor_camaro]

:hail:

[Swairlines]

My tubs must be a little screwy. I have a hole towards the rear. I can fill in the hole. Seems the 67's are different as the templates were way off. I had to make my own. Here's my results so far.

Update!! I contacted DSE and this gap exists due to the 67 not having the staggered shock set up like the 68 and 69's. These are Camaro tubs.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/03/IMG_5385-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/03/IMG_5386-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/03/IMG_5387-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/03/IMG_5388-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/03/IMG_5389-1.jpg
If you look at the 4th pic it appears to me that the entire tub should be slightly rotated clockwise so that the long straight edge would be level (parallel to the ground). I know this MIGHT not be right but since I cant see a wide angle pic of the area it's rather hard to tell where something might be off a few....

[MrQuick]

If you look at the 4th pic it appears to me that the entire tub should be slightly rotated clockwise so that the long straight edge would be level (parallel to the ground). I know this MIGHT not be right but since I cant see a wide angle pic of the area it's rather hard to tell where something might be off a few....
nope, its because its a 67. 67 doesn't have the hump that 68-69's do. He can either make an extension in 1/8" or just extend the tub with 16g.

vince

[CarQz17]

Where does your new shock mount go? What about the bracket that used to go between the original wheel well and the frame rail?

[67 ls1 vert]

I just did my 67 vert... it was the same way. I had to cut out the shock mounts and make close out pieces where you see the hole on yours. I lined up the big round hole with the factory tub. On the inside lip where the two pieces join together, you'll see the the big hole.

Also, as a reference point, there is a line about 1" wide that is stamped on the new tub that should be vertical right above your axle.

Hope this helps. Looks like your on the right path.

Get-r-done!! post up some more pictures when you finish it.

[CarQz17]

For real, where do you mount the shock? It may be a dumb question but I am stumped!

[dhutton]

For real, where do you mount the shock? It may be a dumb question but I am stumped!

You have to fab new mounts. The DSE kit comes with a channel that you weld in if I remember right. Either that or you can go with one of the four bar kits that use coilovers.

[3_z28camaro]

Just cut out the stock wheels tubs today to make room for the DSE units. The pictures were very helpful and made the job much easier.

Thanks!

[1969CamaroRS]

Nice post over on Lat-G about narrowing you rear seat to fit after mini-tubbing:
http://www.lateral-g.net/forums/showthread.php4?t=28606

[Pro Stock]

I didn't notice that you mentioned the amount of time you had in this project, any idea ?

[1969CamaroRS]

I didn't notice that you mentioned the amount of time you had in this project, any idea ?

In the mini-tubbing? Or my project car?


Mini-tubbing was probably about 100 hours give or take, I did spend a lot of time staring at it and looking around for pics.

[gcallahan]

you mentioned that you were going with the G-bar, how does it handle? do you like it? im trying to decide on a rear set up. i like the G-bar for the ease of instillation, but i had my supspension engineer friend look at it and since there is no track/panhard bar he thinks that there would be some lateral shifting, so i have been looking a the DSE quadralink

[Gitter Dun]

Great write up. I should be doing mine fairly soon now. Not sure if I will use DSE tubs though because I want to keep my shock mounts on the outside of the frame rails. I'm still should be able to fit a 315 but we will see. Thanks again, great job!!

[1969CamaroRS]

you mentioned that you were going with the G-bar, how does it handle? do you like it? im trying to decide on a rear set up...

Not on the road yet, wrapping up electrical so I can't comment on the handling just yet but hoping soon :)



Great write up. ... Thanks again, great job!!

Thanks, glad it helps!

[Jon Clough]

Hey,
Just got my DSE tubs for my 70 Camaro yesterday. Your photos were a big help giving me a clue as to what lies ahead.
There is alot to do before I get to the point of putting them in. Just received my AME front and rear frames too. I think I will cut out the old rear frame and install the new AME rear clip first, then tubs, then rear quarter and tail pan.
Any way, when I get some photos to share on the second gen tubing I will post.
thanks again

[craigs73]

Glad i found this bout ready to install mine this will help alot

[1969CamaroRS]

Hey,
Just got my DSE tubs for my 70 Camaro yesterday. Your photos were a big help giving me a clue as to what lies ahead.
There is alot to do before I get to the point of putting them in. Just received my AME front and rear frames too. I think I will cut out the old rear frame and install the new AME rear clip first, then tubs, then rear quarter and tail pan.
Any way, when I get some photos to share on the second gen tubing I will post.
thanks again

No problem Jon, glad it helps. Good idea on the 2nd gen pics, I'm sure there is a bunch of differences and few pics showing them I'm sure would help other 2nd gen owners.


Glad i found this bout ready to install mine this will help alot

Sure thing!

[AKlowriderZ71]

Would there be any advantage or disadvantage to installing these with a product like Lord Fusor instead of welding them in?

[craigs73]

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/08/MiniTub029-1.jpg


i have three question what size bit did you use to drill your spot welds on and in this pic you cut the tub out but left the area where its spot welded did you drill those out or what lol sorry im starting to get a lil overwhelmed and need to see what you done.also how did you decide where to place the pattern that shows you where to cut out the frame thanks

[1969CamaroRS]

i have three question what size bit did you use to drill your spot welds on and in this pic you cut the tub out but left the area where its spot welded did you drill those out or what lol sorry im starting to get a lil overwhelmed and need to see what you done.also how did you decide where to place the pattern that shows you where to cut out the frame thanks

I think sized the drill bit just big enough to drill out the spot weld, I started with a smaller drill and worked up till I found a size bit that consistently could break the welds. Sorry I don't remember the exact size (maybe 3/8ths?)

I also just cut out the tub in that pic above, but then used a cutoff wheel to start taking off the other areas that needed to come out. It was a lot easier once the tub part was out.

As far as where to place the pattern to cut out the frame, I measured and followed the DSE instructions. Unfortunately I don't think I have a bunch of pictures of measuring this, this is the only one I can find:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/05/MiniTub021-1.jpg

If you look closely you can see the lines I drew as a pattern to cut out to. I cut short of this line then tried to fit the tub in and then cut more as needed. I wanted as tight a fit as possible. It took awhile using this method.

[craigs73]

on that cardboard templet you have in the pic what did you do just set the tub on cardboard and outline the shape and used it? also did you cut behind the tub and by behind i mean towards the trunk or when you rounded the cut you just lined it back up with the old tub

[1969CamaroRS]

on that cardboard templet you have in the pic what did you do just set the tub on cardboard and outline the shape and used it?

Yep exactly.


also did you cut behind the tub and by behind i mean towards the trunk or when you rounded the cut you just lined it backup with the old tub

If I understand you correctly, I first cut out the old tub then with that out of the way cut along the top with a cut-off wheel short of the line I scribed. Basically kept shaving off material until I could get the new tubs to fit or looked at where the new tubs wouldn't fit and took off a bit more material there.

[craigs73]

no i was talking about the back of tub the part of the tub thats closest to the back of car the front being in the cabin of car and the back being toward the rear thanks for your time

[GeoffP]

Let's drag forward an old thread since I'm going to be doing a mini tub install to my car VERY soon! I thought I remembered seeing a simple how-to somewhere. I'm glad I found it! :)

[skyper]

I put mini tubs in my car and didn't cut the rail, just letting people know it can be done


69134

[TheJDMan]

This thread needs to be a Sticky!!!!!!

[cwylie]

Im in the process of installing mine. It almost seems like the flange to the inner and outer tubs are a different shape. I think I can clamp it into place but I didnt think it would need this much persuasion.

[maro67]

I have seen several people say they have done this without notching the frame rails. I am curious about a few things if you go this route. First one is did you use DSE tubs or fab your own? I am thinking the DSE tubs would have to be modified to be installed without notching the rails. Second question is without notching the rails what size tire can you fit? I am not looking to go for a full 335 width tire. I will most likely stick to either a 295 or 305. I am very interested in doing this install without notching the rails because I am going to install a C4 IRS and the batwing will mount to the stock rails much like the old Wayne Dues kit. I am starting to think with the amount of fab work that goes into notching the rails could be spent on modifying the tubs to work.

[Carbo]

I have seen several people say they have done this without notching the frame rails. I am curious about a few things if you go this route. First one is did you use DSE tubs or fab your own? I am thinking the DSE tubs would have to be modified to be installed without notching the rails. Second question is without notching the rails what size tire can you fit? I am not looking to go for a full 335 width tire. I will most likely stick to either a 295 or 305. I am very interested in doing this install without notching the rails because I am going to install a C4 IRS and the batwing will mount to the stock rails much like the old Wayne Dues kit. I am starting to think with the amount of fab work that goes into notching the rails could be spent on modifying the tubs to work.

Have you tried calling DSE and asking them? I'm no expert and guessing at this point but I believe by notching the frame that allows you to stuff a 335 under there. Without the frame mods, you could probably modify the tubs to fit with the stock frame and still maybe do a 305. I'm curious about this myself. Let us know what you find out.

[blk68camaro]

i would also like to know what size wheel and tire u can fit if you dont cut the frame rails but use a four link. anybody know whats the widest 18 wheel and tire on a 68 camaro if i go this route? was thinking you could just split the factory tub and add a 2 inch strip, weld it all back up and use a four link, but how big can you go then?