TwinTorino

[SVTforme]

Finally getting around to getting some real progress done on this project - so I figured it was time to start a thread. I have spent a lot of time on the forums getting info for my projects - thanks to everyone!

This project is slightly different than most.. in that myself and a friend are both building similar cars at the same time, hence the "twin" Torino name. It took a couple of years to find two cars, round up all the moderns parts for both the cars, build a chassis fixture, etc. To date, one car has 95% of the parts needed, and the other is 85% there. For additional info on the cars and our builds - you can visit our site at www.twintorino.com (http://www.twintorino.com)


The goal is to have something that could be driven daily and hit open track road course days on the weekends. We also did not want to have the fuel mileage of a big block Ford :). The target is to have the cars completed for the 2009 Power Tour.

The cars started life as 1968 Torino GT Fastbacks. Both were 289 cars with FMX auto transmissions backed by a Ford 8". They are not rare vehicles to start with, nor did they have desirable color combos or options, so they are perfect candidates. Both cars were bought on Ebay and are southern cars.. as we gave up early on the rusty northern cars.

We are building these cars on a pretty tight budget and are doing everything ourselves.. so it just tends to take a lot of time rather than money. We have been busy buying and sellings cars and parts to pay for most of the project to date. Keeping in the cost effective theme - most of the parts are used and came from Ebay, Craigslist, Kijiji and forums like this one.

The engines are 4.6L DOHC ones from a 2004 Mach 1 and the transmissions are T56 6-speed from a 2004 Cobra. We went with a Mach 1 as the engine is all aluminum, and are a lot cheaper than the Cobra supercharged motors. The supercharged motors use iron blocks. The rear ends are 2004 Cobra 8.8 (31 spline inner/outer) as part of the IRS assembly. Cooling comes from 2004 Cobra aluminum radiators (36mm core) and Mustang 2-speed cooling fans. Exhaust will use Bassani stainless steel headers, and a complete 2004 Cobra Bassani stainless steel system to start (modified to fit of course).

The front suspension is a modified 2004 Cobra McPherson strut setup. The rear suspension is a modified 2004 Cobra IRS. The steering rack comes from a 2004 Cobra. Front sway bar is a 35 mm Roush bar, and the rear is 26mm stock unit from the IRS. Koni DA's will be used at all 4 corners.

Front brakes are 2004 Cobra PBR front calipers with 13" Brembo rotors, and will have Carbotech AX6 street/track pads. Rear brakes are 11.65" disk from a 2004 Cobra. Brakes will be powered by a Cobra hydroboost unit. 2004 Mustang pedals are used under the dash.

Wheels for one car will be Ford FR500 18x9 front, and 18x10.5 rear. The other car will run Axis Hiro 18x9 front, and 19x10 rear. Tires are Michelin Pilot PS2 275's in the front, and 315 in the rear. Track tires are yet undecided, although they will be 18x9 and be 275's all round and road course slicks.

Seating will be modified 1969 Torino buckets for daily driving, and Sparco Torino's for track days (although they will likely stay in all the time). Interior will appear mostly stock looking. The gauges will be custom (using a Mustang gauge clsuter to start) with silkscreened faces to mimic the original ones. A/C and heating system will be based on a modified 2004 Mustang system.

Wiring will be modified 2004 Mach 1 harnesses. It is much cheaper that way in comparison to aftermarket setups. Also more complicated this way though :).

Cars will retain the Cobra ABS brakes, traction control, PATS theft system (with key in the dash), keyless entry, and basically any other major electrical function a 2004 Cobra would have. We are getting rid of things like air bags, power mirrors and lots of other things that are not needed.

That is all for now.. here are some pictures:

Day 1 for both cars:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/08/Georgia_Day1019-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/08/Texas_Day1006-1.jpg

Powertrain:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/08/Texas_Mach1_001-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/08/t56_trans_no3_002-1.jpg

Suspension/Brakes/Steering
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2007/03/torino_irs004-1.jpg
Front donor suspension structure:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/08/texastorinoandmustang_001-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/08/texas_steering_001-1.jpg

Seats:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/08/sparco_torino_2-1.jpg

Wiring (ouch):
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/08/texas_wiring_001-1.jpg

Wheels/Tires:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/08/texas_fr500_wheel_007-1.jpg

[conciseautosports]

looks like a good project(s).cool that you are both doing similar rides , whats the drivetrain for the other one?

[Steve1968LS2]

Nice project.. love the Torino!

Looks like you have a LOT of work ahead of you...

[SVTforme]

Those are the cars and parts.. now some progress pics:

Floors be gone:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/08/Texas_floor_replace_004-1.jpg

Soon to be subframe connectors:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/08/Texas_floor_replace_006-1.jpg

Chassis fixture for setting up suspension and powertrain:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/08/chassis_jig_006-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/08/chassis_jig_010-1.jpg

IRS cradle fixture:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/08/chassis_jig_irs_003-1.jpg

Vehicle in rough position:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/08/texas_front_susp_011-1.jpg

Body fixture with screw jacks for height adjustment:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/08/chassis_jig_body_008-1.jpg

IRS moving into place..
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/08/Texas_IRS_008-1.jpg

Finally starting to get some useful work done on the cars after all the detours of project funding, fixture building a parts sourcing. It has been a long road that has brought us through many provinces and states.

The latest victim for parts (this side makes the car look like it is in good condition).
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/08/avon_cobra_001-1.jpg

[SVTforme]

looks like a good project(s).cool that you are both doing similar rides , whats the drivetrain for the other one?

Both cars are sporting the same setup. 4.6L DOHC Mach 1 Engine / T56 and IRS. The only thing we are missing at this point is another Mach engine. We have 2 of everything else.


Nice project.. love the Torino!

Looks like you have a LOT of work ahead of you...

Can't go wrong with the Torino/Fairlane as you know :). Great job on your project and putting these cars on the map! I remembering seeing your project for the first time in the magazines.. made me proud to be a Torino owner. Most people don't seem to even know what the car is - I am sure you can relate.

There are a couple of late nights ahead - that is for sure..

[Black-Jacket]

motorcity canada? oshawa?

[jackfrost]

just out of curiosity, how much does a wrecked car like that go for?

[705.0Merc]

Very cool projects. Glad to see something other than the Corvette suspension. I also like that they are all Ford!

[SVTforme]

just out of curiosity, how much does a wrecked car like that go for?

12-14k(!) will usually fetch you a 2003/2004 Cobra complete and wrecked. I bought the car less engine, trans, IRS, front seats and a bunch of other odds and ends. At this point.. the person just wanted to get rid of it. I walked away with a great deal and lots of parts towards the projects, and enough extra parts to sell to fund the purchase of a second engine.

[MZ 500]

Hey glad to see you guys on here your cars fit right in to the Pro-Touring lifestyle. One queston What is that Steering Rack out of.

[DarkBuddha]

Wow! I first visited your site a while back (was it two years ago?) and never heard much about it for a long time. I'm glad to see progress being made. I sure love the idea and your choice in cars. Keep us posted!

[SVTforme]

Hey glad to see you guys on here your cars fit right in to the Pro-Touring lifestyle. One queston What is that Steering Rack out of.
Nice to see another fellow TorinoCobra.com person over here too :). There are not many of us into the Pro-Touring scene that is for sure.

The steering racks we are using are out of a 2004 SVT Cobra. The Cobras from 2003 and 2004 have a special quick ratio rack that is different from every other Mustang.


Wow! I first visited your site a while back (was it two years ago?) and never heard much about it for a long time. I'm glad to see progress being made. I sure love the idea and your choice in cars. Keep us posted!
Yeah.. we started the site 2 years ago right after we bought the cars. It sure took a while to find all the parts and pieces used to keep things on a budget. Also took a while to get a place set up to work on them, and get all the tools in place to do the builds. We are finally at the point where we can actually do something productive.

[WILWAXU]

That's going to be one cool Torino!

[SVTforme]

Finally some action in the Torino world. Found another engine for car #2 that happened to come with lots of other parts. The winter is now approaching which means it will be much easier to get things done. If anyone is looking for a Mach 1 rear axle for their project.. let me know :).

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/10/georgia_mach_engine_001-1.jpg

Also started working on rendering in 3D Studio of the cars. Here is a glimpse of what is to come..

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/10/torino20side20view20with20michelins_001-1.jpg

[Code Red]

good luck with the project

[WS6]

Looking great. I love the Torino as well.

[Chad-1stGen]

Cool build. Pretty hard core and looks like you guys are out to do it right the first time

[Regan]

Looks pretty good. Good luck.

[torino420]

I'll be watching this one closely, keep us updated!

[SVTforme]

Got tired of trying to mock up the underhood area with a complete heavy engine, so I decided to make something a little more lightweight. A heavy engine was even more annoying to work with the car on a jig that is 18" off the ground. Since I am on a tight budget, I opted to use an old shipping crate and about $10 worth of fasteners from Home Depot. After careful measurements of the block and tracing out various components, a CAD model was created. This was then used to make up 1:1 scale prints, which were in turn pinned to 3/4 plywood and cut out. This allows the headers, cam covers, trans, front cover, upper intake manifold, manifolds, A/C compressor and power steering pump to be installed in the car.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/11/mock_mach_001-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/11/mock_mach_003-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/11/mock_mach_004-1.jpg

[chaz75]

i love it. very very cool. chaz

[Blue70]

This build is awesome, I can't wait to see more
and I love the plywood engine, good thinking.

[BMF Machine]

This is GreaT! Who said CreativitY is DeaD! Keep on Man!

[rjsjea]

Cool build.......:smoke:

[MZ 500]

Good idea with the wood block looks like you used Solid Works I'm on it all day at work I have used it for a few things on the car.

[zman1969]

Cool project! although I'm partial to '70 torino's as I used to own a 70 429 SCJ 4 speed car- good memories for sure- keep up the good work and update us! Oh BTW i have a 69 RS/Z thats 76b too. Ill be watching how this turns out.

[Otto-813]

That mock up engine was a good idea! Nice job cant wait to see more build pictures!

[SVTforme]

Thanks for all the feedback guys! Trying to keep things on a budget here :). And yes - I am using Solidworks - could not live without it.

Got the engine in the car the past couple of days. Sure is a lot easier when it is lighter. The shaker on the 2004 Mach 1 sits very far forward when in the Torino, so I had to take it apart and shift it back about 8" to make it look right. Not sure if I am going to keep it on the car or not. Hope to get a lot done on this over the weekend.

Engine does not like the factory shock towers as you can see - the cam covers won't fit. The plasma will make them go away this weekend so a pair of 2004 Mustang shock towers can be installed.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/11/machwoodinstalled-1.jpg

[PhillipM]

Looks great man! IRS is a lot of work and takes the right kind of guy to enjoy it. Keep it up!

[SVTforme]

These cars will spend a lot of time doing laps on the road couse and taking road trips in general - so hopefully we are those kinda guys :).

[SVTforme]

Finished up the wooden mockup this week. Believe it or not, a std household copper pipe is the same size as a dowel pin, so this was easy to set up. This allowed the trans to be mounted to the buck motor. The motor mounts were set up, along with the exhaust, oil filter adapter (OFA) and the intake manifold. This allows everything to be mounted on the stock k-member for now. Starting to look like a real setup now, aside from the wood :). Next step it make up mounts for the chassis fixture to get the engine and trans at the correct position and angle.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/12/mock_mach_005-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/12/mock_mach_006-1.jpg

Finally started work on the underbody once again. Since the 315 or 335 tires will not clear the inner wheel wells, we needed to make some more room. The suspension will also move differently than a solid axle (you get camber change now with the IRS), so that further defines the need to minitub the rear of the car. Since there is no kit available (may be a while before DSE makes a Torino kit) - we need to just cut out an inch of floorpan and add an inch to the inner wheel wells. Finally got to put the plasma cutter to its first test - is worth its weight on gold during this step. It is very easy to cut straight lines this way too.

Had to cut holes in the trunk floor so the upper control arms on the IRS would fit. Also hitting the pinion snubber and will hit the jounce bumper brackets, so those will have to go away too. This all needs to be done so the car can have a lower stance and still sit at the correct "design" position as it was designed (and not just at some arbitrary control arm angle).

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/12/texas_minitub_001-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/12/texas_minitub_003-1.jpg

Also have a complete 3ds Max model to post up here within the next week to get some feedback on the final design for the cars.

[fairlane347]

Cool progress, will be awesome when its done. Are you going to have them at Woodward Dream Cruise in 09? If so I would love to see them.

[streetrod77]

Nice. I also thought about the 4.6 in my Comet but not enough engine bay.

[icebird84]

Excellent work and project

[1971CHEVELLE]

i love it. very very cool

[SVTforme]

Finally managed to get some additional work on the car over the holidays. We removed the pass side wheel tub and then moved onto the front to attack the suspension.

If you look at the previous pictures, you will see that a DOHC engine was not meant to fit within Torino shock towers. Easy solution there - get rid of them. They will be replaced with 2004 Mustang based ones.

I will say once again how great a tool a plasma cutter is!! This is by far one of the best and fastest tools I own. It makes cutting up cars a breeze. Once the shock towers were out, the stock Mustang k-member was modified to allow it to bolt into the Torino. A spare mockup steering rack was placed in position and will work perfect once in place which is another relief as we were not sure if it would hit anything.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/01/texas_minitub_005-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/01/texas_front_suspension_mod_001-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/01/texas_front_suspension_mod_002-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/01/texas_front_suspension_mod_004-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/01/texas_front_suspension_mod_005-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/01/texas_front_suspension_mod_006-1.jpg

[SVTforme]

Once the front shock towers were removed and the stock Mustang front suspension k-member was modified, the engine was placed in the car. Surprisingly, the engine and exhaust fit quite well, and should only require a few tweaks to make it work. This is a big relief as we had thought it was going to be necessary to widen the frame rails. The only thing that is really in the way is the old trans crossmember brackets which will be cut off anyway. The motor mounts on the crossmember will need to be adjusted as the engine needs to shift back at least 6". Things are finally starting to move along now!

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/01/texas_engine_install_002-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/01/texas_engine_install_001-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/01/texas_engine_install_003-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/01/texas_engine_install_004-1.jpg

[CptKlutz]

Great work and keep it coming!
:1st:

[MZ 500]

Looking good man I like the idea of using the mustang K-member and it looks like the rack is going to work out nice too.

[SVTforme]

Started to mock up the front suspension by putting the control arms in place as well as the spindles, hubs, struts, caster/camber plates and brakes. The suspension is sitting approx where it will in the shock tower area. Next step is to finalize these points with a plumb bob to match the same points as a stock 2004 Mustang. Then it is time to build up costom strut towers. The struts shown are just for mockup. In the end the car will be running coil over struts with adjustable rebound and compression (Koni or Tokico - haven't decided yet). The Maximum Motorsports caster camber plates will allow us to run 2-3° of camber at the track and then back to close to stock specs for the street. The only immediate problem is going to be with the hood hinges interfering with caster/camber plates. One thing we did figure out here is that a SN95 Mustang swaybar is not going to work here since the Torino framerails are much lower than the Mustang, so I think we are going to have to run an S197 Mustang bar instead.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/01/texas_front_suspension_mod_007-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/01/texas_front_suspension_mod_008-1.jpg

[BMF Machine]

LookS PrettY GutteD! Smok'N man, Smok'N!

[SVTforme]

We have been spending some time lately figuring how we want to set the suspension up, and seeing what we want to run for hard points on the chassis etc. We also want to figure out how to set up the rear springs/shocks, since there is not a lot back there. We started to get the chassis points into the computer and figure out roughly how the car will behave when we set up the points the way we want to. The models is being created using program called Motionview (by Altair Engineering) which is for multibody dymanics. This is then sovled using a program called ADAMS.

Here is the model as it is today. The front and rear suspension have all the basics points in. Not much to see aside from the bare basics. You can clearly see all the main suspension parts for the front MacPherson strut suspension and SLA rear IRS. The key here is the info it spits out.. and not having detailed graphics. I will post some animations once they are up and running, as it makes more sense when you see things moving. Now it is time to determine the kinematic behavior of the car (camber/caster/toe curves) and them move onto the dynamic side of things (spring rates, shock rates etc). Also been spending some time with a complete 3D rendering of the car which should be ready to post in a week or two.

This is much easier to do now before everything is finished, and it is not really easy to guess how a car will behave by just looking at where points are. This will provide a starting point for setup, as it is much harder to move points when everything is welded in for good.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/01/suspension_simulation_001-1.jpg

[SVTforme]

Finally got some renderings going for the cars.. figured I would post here as well as it goes along with the build progress of the cars. This was my first crack at 3D rendering.. just needed a good project to learn how to use it. More to come in the near future.

Also have lots more done on the front suspension and the subframe connectors. Pics to follow shortly.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/01/full20vehicle20renders-1.jpg

[andrewb70]

Great work!

Andrew

[jeff s]

I dig this car. Nice job!

[torino420]

Nice rendering! Can't wait for updated pics.

[ProMav71]

Liking this project! I need to turn my brother on to this thread, seeing how he has a 69 429 CJ he's been redoing, I think he would love this. Keep it coming!

[SVTforme]

Couple more updates:

Three main things on the go right now - front suspension/steering/brakes, floor of car/subframe connectors and steering column/pedal setup and seat positioning. Rear suspension is on hold until custom bent tubes and rear coil overs arrive.

First the suspension. Have found most of the front suspension components online in the past month or so (nearly new for discounted prices of course). Nice thing here is since I am running SN95 (1994-2004) Mustang based suspension - the sky is the limit with aftermarket parts.

Front suspension will consist of (parts are on the way or in hand now for one car):
Maximum Motorsports front tubular lower control arms
Koni dual adjustable (DA) front struts with adjustable rebound and compression damping
Maximum Motorsports coil over kit
Maximum Motorsports caster camber plates
Stock Mustang front spindles/hubs
Hypercoil springs - have not decided on rate yet

Since the strut rods are no longer needed, the brackets that house the bushings were removed. Custom brackets will be made up to stiffen the area once again and also provide mounts for the radiator, A/C condensor and ABS unit.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/01/texas_front_susp_012-1.jpg

With the suspension almost in position, the stock control arms make contact with the frame. Tubular control arms correct this issue, although just barely. The goal here is to get the suspension in the exact same position as in a stock Mustang to keep the suspension geometry the same (easier said than done as we are finding out).

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/01/texas_front_susp_013-1.jpg

Nearly new tubular control arms compared to the old ones. Since we are running coil overs, spring pockets are no longer needed. They are also lighter and much better looking.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/01/texas_front_susp_014-1.jpg

As for the subframe connectors - hoping to have them in within the next week or so. The passengers side is nearly ready to go in. Just have to jog the subframe connector 4" as the front subframe is 4" inboard of the rear (more to come on that shortly). As you can see, the front trans mount has been removed, and the remaining piece left will be used for welding to the connectors. A custom trans mount will need to be made for the 6-speed, and also a driveshaft loop needs to go in as well as seat mount supports. This will all make a bit more sense once they start going in.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/01/texas_frame_connector_install_001-1.jpg

Got started on laying out the driving position this week as well.
Starting fitting the Sparco's into the car. They are extremely comfortable and will help keep a person planted when on the road course. Stangely enough, sparco does not make seat adapters to bolt into a Torino, even though the model name is Sparco Torino :).

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/01/texas_sparco_install_001-1.jpg

Started to fit the Mustang pedals into the car. Several reasons for using these instead of Torino ones. Mustang uses a cable clutch and Torino ones need significant mods to make work with the clutch quadrant. Want to be able to keep the stock Mustang pedal ratios going into the hydroboost. Want to be able to use the stock Mustang electronics since all the dash wiring is from a 2004 Mustang. Also like the pedal positions much more and they are much better for heel/toe driving on the track. Measurements were taken from a 2004 Mustang to be able to position the pedals the same distance from the firewall, height off the ground, and releationship to the steering wheel. The goal here is also to use a stock floor shift Torino column as I hate the look of a new column in an old car.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/01/texas_mustang_pedals_001-1.jpg

Well.. here is the first issue as we were expecting. The clutch quadrant hits the windshield wiper motor area. This area will need to be modified to make it work. It is looking like we will end up grafting a Mustang firewall onto the Torino. That way everything will bolt right up (including brake clutch and gas pedals, steering column, hydroboost unit, heater box and all wiring and cable pass throughs) and look much cleaner. Since we have 2 complete Mustang firewall assemblies and a plasma cutter.. this should not be a big deal.. famous last words I guess.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/01/texas_mustang_pedals_002-1.jpg
Stay tuned..

[SVTforme]

All the go fast parts are now starting to arrive as I find them on the net (used of course). These are the front struts for the car. They are dual adjustable (DA) Konis with adjustable rebound and compression settings to I can turn the fun on when I arrive at the track. I also added the Maximum Motorsports coil over kit. Kinda scary.. but this kit new would have cost me more than I paid for my complete Torino. I should have everything else for the suspension in the next couple weeks.

June is quicky approaching - need a running and driving car for the Hot Rod Power Tour which is rolling through MI. That is only 4 months away!! Paint can wait until the fall.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/02/texas_front_susp_015-1.jpg

[ed1le]

Incredible build! Love the resources you're using, going to be a nice pair of Torinos!

[SVTforme]

In order to get the suspension in place and get the suspension in the correct vehicle position, we needed to build a fixture that would work with our chassis jig. The k-member was used as reference and mounting points were chosen and located. Once this was built, it was placed on the vehicle so a tire and wheel could now be put into place. Finally starting to look like a real front suspension. Lets just say that 18x10's are a tight fit up front and will likely not fit. They will likely need to be narrowed as that is the only size they come in. They are Roush forged 18x10's and will likely be the track trims. Lots of new clearance issues came up with this.. and we be datailed as the install continues. The coil overs are going to prove to make matters worse for clearances. More carnage to come tomorrow (Torino Tuesday) as we start hacking up the firewall to fit all the Mustang components. Stay tuned..

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/02/texas_front_susp_016-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/02/texas_front_susp_017-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/02/texas_front_susp_018-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/02/texas_front_susp_019-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/02/texas_front_susp_020-1.jpg

[SVTforme]

It is finally transmission rebuild time. Since we both bought known broken transmissions (to save money of course) we knew we would have to rebuild these anyway. We decided to upgrade the known weak points in the T56 transmission since these cars will see some track duty. The kit upgrades the trans with carbon kevlar synchronizer rings and replaces all of the typical wear items. There are two main weak points inside the case: 1) The stamped 1-2 and 3-4 keys are being replaced with billet ones as shown below. 2) The aluminum 3-4 shift forks are being replaced with steel pieces (from a Viper trans), and also replaced the plastic fork pads with brass ones.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/02/torino_6speed_rebuild_001-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/02/torino_6speed_rebuild_002-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/02/torino_6speed_rebuild_003-1.jpg

[SVTforme]

After going back and forth on how to make these pedals work out, along with the clutch cable, gas pedal & cable, heater box, wiring harnesses, steering column pass through etc. etc, we can to the conclusion that the firewall would likely be hacked to pieces by the time we got done with it. If only we had a firewall from a Mustang. We had two that were already part of a complete car, but those have lots of other pieces spot welded to them and they would likely be ruined trying to get the out, let alone how long it would take. I put a call into a friend who works at a dealer, and the next thing I know he was telling me that firewalls are available and are cheap! I guess when you think about it - how often would a firewall be replaced? Are car would likely be written off before needing to replace one. As you can see below - everything wil bolt up nicely and look like it was supposed to be there. Obviously this is not a quick bolt on modification and will require lots of cutting and welding, but it will be worth it in the end for sure. In the end, the cost of the firewall was less than 2 replacement Torino toe pans, so this was a no brainer.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/02/texas_firewall_mods_001-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/02/texas_firewall_mods_002-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/02/texas_firewall_mods_003-1.jpg

[SVTforme]

Starting to order up some of the parts required to rebuild the engine (or at least check it out) and then add part like oil pans that are spefically for road racing. We decided to get a Moroso pan that is specifically designed for use during on track events and has seprate trap doors to keep the sloshing to a minimum.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/02/torino_engine_rebuilds_001-1.jpg

Also had the IRS tubes show up today which will allow us to complete the rear suspension install. These are 2.5" x 1/8 wall tubes we had custom CNC mandrel bent for this application. They came out great as you can see.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/02/Texas_IRS_009-1.jpg

[SVTforme]

Too late to turn back now. Firewall is now gone and there is now a large hole in the car :). Surprisingly, with only some slight removal of material from the Mustang firewall, the piece started to fit up quite nicely. It will obviously need material added in certain places since the Mustang is a diffrerent size vehicle altogether. Started to install parts to see how they fit into the package and everything is finally falling into place. Pedals, hydroboost, steering shaft and heater box were all installed. Next the trans will be installed so we can see what is going to have the happen to the trans hump if anything. With the engine in, everything also fits nicely. The throttle and clutch cables also worked out quite nicely. The pedal spacing is much better compared to stock as well. Not sure what the pedal pads will look like in the end, but for now they will retain the 2004 SVT Cobra look.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/02/texas_firewall_mods_004-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/02/texas_firewall_mods_006-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/02/texas_firewall_mods_008-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/02/texas_firewall_mods_009-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/02/texas_firewall_mods_010-1.jpg

[jackfrost]

great project. reminds me of the sn65 project.

is this all just on the one car? or are both at the same spot?

[1971CHEVELLE]

Wow awesome metal work....keep posting pics

[SVTforme]

Thanks guys - I appreciate the comments.

There are definitely similarities between these and the SN65. We are focussing on making this a daily cruiser, but have the adjustability to make it suitable for the track car on the weekends. Most of the suspension has been modified as you can see.

The big thing we are doing is here is setting the suspension to where it would be on a stock Mustang (not lowered). This way we do not have issues with bump steer and camber change like a lowered Mustang would have. We set the suspension to a "design" height and lower the body to get the ride height (which required a lot of cutting to make it work). To do the equivalent to this on an SN95 Mustang would require moving every suspension point up to match the height that the car was lowered (Very difficult and time consuming as you would imagine).

Main focus is on Torino #1 right now, but we are buying and making 2 of everything as we go. Once the IRS cradle is fixed in place as well as the firewall and front suspension, this car will come off the jig and the other one will go on. The second car will go much much faster since we have fixtures built and we will know exactly what to do the second time around. At this point we have 2 of everything for the most part (engine, IRS, trans, front suspension, brakes, pedals etc).

[SVTforme]

Finally making some progress on stiffening up the chassis. Since the floors are cut out, we decided to run a full connector from the front torque box / frame rail to the rear one. The goal here is to make it look like the frames connect to one another and make it appear factory installed. First problem with that idea is the front subframe is offset 4" from the rear. We decided to add a 4" jog into the part as shown below. This involves calculating the angle to bend the material, measuring the width of the bandsaw blade, and then making the necessary cuts to get there. Then lots of miles on the TIG to attached everything together again. It is a rather long process in comparison to just notching it out, but looks much cleaner (even though noone will likely notice once installed).
Also started to grind away some of the weld to smooth the surface out. Very happy with the end result. Should be able to get them cut to length and start cutting up the floors to make them fit this week.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/03/texas_frame_connector_install_002-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/03/texas_frame_connector_install_003-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/03/texas_frame_connector_install_004-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/03/texas_frame_connector_install_006-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/03/texas_frame_connector_install_007-1.jpg

[SVTforme]

Well.. I typically run on a tight budget and hate to buy anything new.. but I had to make an exception. I found this set (technically 2 sets I guess) of Roush Alcon brakes at a great price on clearance. I just had to have them. The calipers and rotors and made by Alcon, and the misc hardware and mounting brackets are made by Roush. This kit is made for the Roush Stage 3 Mustangs from 1999-2004 (SN95). The front rotors are 14" (compared to the 13" Cobras) and the rears are 13" (compared to the 11.65" Cobras). The calipers are 4 piston with race/track pads. Can't wait to see how these work. The barely fit within the 18" FR500 wheels. I have had issues in the past with melting the dust boots on the Cobra brakes, so hopefully that problem will go away.

How big are 14" rotors? They are the same size as the rims on a 1969 Camaro..
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/03/torino_alcons_001-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/03/torino_alcons_002-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/03/torino_alcons_003-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/03/torino_alcons_004-1.jpg

[SVTforme]

Been a while since I have posted.. project is moving right along..

Managed to get the powertrain in it's actual position finally. Really starting to feel like a car now. Put the hood on to find that we actually have hood clearance which we were not really sure about it. Have around 15-20mm from the throttle body to the hood. Won't need to modify the hood thankfully. Still detaing on whether to run a shaker. Kinda leaning towards not using it and keeping the stock hood. The engine ended up 4" rearward of the front suspension in comparison to an SN95 Mustang.

Also got the 6-speed in. After struggling with getting it to work with the stock trans tunnel - it was clear that it was not going to fit. The plasma cutter made that go away quickly - A new custom tunnel will be made up. Otherwise, the shifter is in the perfect location and feels great going through the gears. The handle shown is just for mockup - I will likely modify a hurst shifter or something like that and then use a custom boot. Want to make it look somewhat period looking.

The headers are in and they fit surprising well. They are full length headers made by SLP Engineering and came with an engine we bought. The pass side clears everything, but the drivers side could get interesting with the steering shaft. Nothing major.. just will need some tweaking.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/05/texas_powertrain_in_position_001-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/05/texas_powertrain_in_position_002-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/05/texas_powertrain_in_position_003-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/05/texas_powertrain_in_position_004-1.jpg

[SVTforme]

Also finished up close to a final rendering of the car. Just need to add a couple things like the hash marks etc and update the brakes. I like the stock looking C stripe the more I look at it.. glad I pryed myself away from the 2-tone. The background is in Arizona and was taken by a friend of mine.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/05/texas_torino_rendering_twintorino_dot_co-1.jpg

[SVTforme]

Managed to find several more Mustang performance parts (used of course) from one person that almost completes the parts needed to finish the suspensions for both cars. This includes 4 sets of Hypercoil springs (2 1/2 ID front, 2 1/4 ID rear), Maximum Motorsports tubular lower control arms and caster camber plates, and rear Eibach IRS swaybar (29mm). Almost there - can't wait to take the first lap around the track! Springs rates are close to what we want based on wheel rate calculations. They will be tuned in once we get some track time.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/05/cobra_performance_parts_stash-1.jpg

[SVTforme]

Also have the fabrication nearly complete on the front IRS cradle suspension mounts. As you can see, they tie into the existing leaf spring mount. We cut a section of 2" OD steel and notched out the 2.5" main tube - worked perfect. Another days worth of work and they will be ready to weld in. Getting closer to getting the car down on the ground. We decided to rigid mount these instead of using rubber bushings like the factory ones. https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/05/Texas_IRS_010-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/05/Texas_IRS_012-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/05/Texas_IRS_013-1.jpg

[SVTforme]

Subframe connectors are now nearly completed. Very happy with how they fit. There is lots of weld area to tie these into the existing front and rear subframes. Should increase the stiffness of the chassis quite a bit. If all goes well.. they should look they are supposed to be there. Just need to get the rotisserie built so the underside can be completely welded
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/05/texas_frame_connector_install_012-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/05/texas_frame_connector_install_013-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/05/texas_frame_connector_install_014-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/05/texas_frame_connector_install_015-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/05/texas_frame_connector_install_018-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/05/texas_frame_connector_install_019-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/05/texas_frame_connector_install_020-1.jpg

[SVTforme]

I have been trying to figure out what the heck to do with my ignition switch on the dash.. as the electrical portion of the projects is quickly approaching. Since the entire car revolves around a 2004 Mustang's electrical system, I needed to use something that would allow me to use a Mustang key in the dash. Only problem is new Mustangs have their keys on the column, which means the mechanisms are totally different as is the electrical. After looking all over the place.. I found several Lincolns have a key in the dash. I found this 1998 Lincoln Mark VIII lately which fits quite nicely. Once the original ring is in place, should look close to stock. It fits and looks quite nicely. The goal here is to make it look close to stock.

These pics show how the part fits without any mods whatsoever. Just need to modify the part slightly so the stock ring will fit.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/05/torino_wiring_002-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/05/torino_wiring_003-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/05/torino_wiring_004-1.jpg

[SVTforme]

Finally time to start working on the fun part of this project - the powertrain. We have 2 kits to completely rebuild and upgrade the 6-speed transmissions, and the engines will just get a refreshing/upgrade and make sure everything is OK inside. After all, they are only 5 years old.

One of the engines we bought came from a car that was a write-off and have some issues with the front cover being cracked as you can see. We took a risk on this (since we only have pics to go by) and hoped that there was no internal damage from the timing chain coming off. Sure enough when we pulled the head off, all was well inside. Gotta love the 4 valve heads https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/05/georgia_mach_engine_004-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/05/georgia_mach_engine_005-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/05/georgia_mach_engine_006-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/05/georgia_mach_engine_007-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/05/georgia_mach_engine_008-1.jpg

[SVTforme]

We bought 2 Tremec T56 6-speeds knowing there was some internal damage, and saved a lot of money by doing so. Symptoms were hard to shift into 3/4 gears, and also the transmission was popping out of 3rd and 4th while driving. This is a classic symptom in these transmission of failed stamped steel keys in the trans. This is a faily easy job as long as you have gear pullers available and heavy duty snap ring pliers.

As you can see below - the fragments found in the trans of the stamped steel keys, what the stamped steel keys originally looked like, and the upgraded billet keys. Also the difference between the bronze shift fork pads and the plastic originals (the other ones were in pieces all through the trans). Transmissions will also receive carbon kevlar synchronizer rings and an upgraded steel shift fork (from aluminum). Otherwise all the gears in the trans were in great shape with no noticeable wear.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/05/torino_6speed_rebuild_004-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/05/torino_6speed_rebuild_005-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/05/torino_6speed_rebuild_008-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/05/torino_6speed_rebuild_006-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/05/torino_6speed_rebuild_007-1.jpg

[WS6]

The rendering looks great. I wouldn't change a thing. Keep up the great work. I really like these cars and think they deserve more attention from the PT and hot rod crowd.

[justdrive]

amazing work so far, cant wait to see the twins.

[CruizinKev]

nice project man! keep it up :twothumbs

[hechtrod]

What they said! Cool renderings! Even cooler in real life. Keep it up! Love the concept of Ford parts, especially the 4 valve'r and irs.

[Code Red]

wow real nice work man

[zman1969]

looking great and your building two? (cant hardly afford my one) I like the torinos! keep up the good work and good pics you've included - nice!

[SVTforme]

I am building one and a friend is building the other. There is strength in numbers :). I can barely afford one myself. I can't afford the labor rate.. but I can afford the time.

[PROTREE]

looking good keep us up to date with pics

[SVTforme]

Time for another update.. been a while.

Finished the rebuild of both T56 transmissions. Much easier than I had expected. They both had the same 3/4 stamped key issue, and one had a sheared up input shaft (Ford input shafts only use 10 spline instead of the GM 26 spline.. damn OEM cost reductions!).

Car was not going anywhere with this shaft. Ebay $13 replacement will do the trick. I will not be running enough power to replicate this failure (not yet at least).
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/06/torino_6speed_rebuild_009-1.jpg
Ebay used press coming in handy..
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/06/torino_6speed_rebuild_012-1.jpg
New sycro billet keys and blocker rings installed and ready to go:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/06/torino_6speed_rebuild_010-1.jpg
Measuring shaft preloads (since they use tapered roller bearings) and added shims to get 0.000 end play.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/06/torino_6speed_rebuild_011-1.jpg
All done, cleaned up and ready to install:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/06/torino_6speed_rebuild_013-1.jpg

Trans #2..

We bought this one from a guy in Ohio for very cheap.. he was fed up with the way it shifted and had brought it into the dealer to take a look. The dealer pulled it apart and found the stamped keys destroyed and pieces were all over the magnets (just like the other one we have). The blocker rings (shown below) were warn out and then some. Thankfully they did not wear down more or my gears would have been chewed up. At this point - I am guessing the dealer found it would be cheaper to just replace it, so they did. They quickly pieced it back together (leaving several key pieces out) and that is how we bought it.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/06/torino_6speed_rebuild_014-1.jpg
Here is a pic of everything disassembled and in the parts washer. Still amazed they can actually make these thing work.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/06/torino_6speed_rebuild_015-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/06/torino_6speed_rebuild_016-1.jpg

[SVTforme]

Now back to the interior once again. The top portions of the subframe connectors are now completely welded in, so it is time to finish up the firewall and the floors. The firewall was trimmed to fit around the torque box and was adjusted to the final position both side to side and up and down. The floor needed to be slotted to clear the subframe connectors both front and back. We ended up lowering the floor 3/4" to get everything where we wanted it. Just need to add an inch or two to the front pan so it will mate up with the firewall. This works out great and will no longer require toe pans. I had to pull out the hammer and dolly set to get the profile of the front of the floor pan to match the firewall - worked out quite well in the end.
Just need to make up extensions for both sides of the firewall and make up a tranmission hump, then everything can be welded in for good. Finally starting to feel like we are getting somewhere.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/06/Texas_floor_replace_018-1.jpg https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/06/Texas_floor_replace_013-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/06/Texas_floor_replace_014-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/06/Texas_floor_replace_015-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/06/Texas_floor_replace_016-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/06/Texas_floor_replace_017-1.jpg

[SVTforme]

Put the cutouts in the pass side floors to mate up with the subframe connectors, and added and inch and a half to the front of each panel to meet up with the Mustang firewall. That way I no longer need to use Torino toe pans (unfortunately I bought them already). With the way the subframe connectors are set up in the car, the floors are lowered approx 3/4 in the front to get a bit more room up front for the pedals etc. I quickly put in the seats and dash and it feels perfect for driving.. can't wait. Now onto the firewall and trans tunnel.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/06/Texas_floor_replace_019-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/06/Texas_floor_replace_020-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/06/Texas_floor_replace_021-1.jpg

[WS6]

Looking good. I love what you're doing. Just finished watching Gran Torino the movie too. Great movie

[WILWAXU]

Outstanding work! Car looks great.

[modular93fox]

wow, cars like this give others like myself inspiration... nice job so far..(little understatement..) are you gona stick an eaton ontop of the 32v motor?

[PhillipM]

Hey guys these builds are looking super sweet!! Nice work and keep it coming!

[SVTforme]

Time for a couple more updates..

We started to lay out all of the wiring in the car as that stage is quickly appreaching. There is a lot more room to put everything in here compared to the original Mustang that it came off of. The big challenge here is going to be making room for everything once the HVAC is installed and in position. The computer processor, fuse panels, and lots of other items that wer never on the original Torino need to find home too. The Mach 1 cluster and all the wiring connectors will stay until the car is started for the first time.. and then everything will go on a diet. Al the wiring and connectors that are not needed will be cut out. The parts that remain as original Torino parts (very few pieces like the steering column and various lights) will be spliced in also.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/08/texas_wiring_002-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/08/texas_wiring_003-1.jpg

Got started on some of the smaller details of the project. In this case, the door locks. Every once and a while you are really surprised that something works for a change. In this case it was with the door locks. Believe it or not, a lock cylinder from a 2003 Mustang actually fits exactly into the stamped hole in the body of a 1968 Torino. It fits exactly with no mofifications - retainer clip and all. A custom rod is needed to connect it to the door latch - but that is to be expected. I ended up making a quick one with a welding rod, and the key now locks and unlocks the door.. kinda neat. Note that the lock is actually black - for some reason 2004 Mustangs are polished as we found out. Black will eventually be removed. Only one issue here - Mustangs do not have a lock cylinder on the pass side, and Torinos do. As luck would have it - a local Ford dealer was selling off excess stock this week on Ebay, and one of the parts they had was replacement Mustang lock sets. These come with 5 bags of key tumblers, and you simply select the tumblers to match the key you have, and then you assemble and install. This adds a cylinder to the pass side with ease.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/08/texas_door_locks_001-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/08/texas_door_locks_002-1.jpg

[SVTforme]

Finally got the last of the firewall out.. had to remove the upper lip that ties into the cowl (gets rid of the 1" or so overhang too which is good). Kinda doing the opposite to what most people do when they remove the cowl panel :). Actually got a chance to put the stretcher shrinker to work since the upper lip of the firewall is curved. Have the drivers side almost ready to weld to the firewall.. just have to work on the pass side.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/08/texas_firewall_mods_011-1.jpg

There is and end in sight with the firewall mods. Almost getting ready to weld everything together and then weld it into the car. Once it is done it will be great as everything will bolt right in. Not sure what it would have looked like if we kept the original on there. Once everything is painted black should blend much better. Just need to extend the pass side floorpan and the fab work will be done for here. Rather than double up the material near the torque box like the stock setup, we figured we would just use them as is. Save a bit of material and make the process easier.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/08/texas_firewall_mods_014-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/08/texas_firewall_mods_015-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/08/texas_firewall_mods_016-1.jpg

[SVTforme]

In the meantime - it was time to get going on the steering since this was somewhat of an unknown. The steering will be a cross between a 1968 column and 2004 Mustang. The column needs to be shortened to clear the pedels like on a Mustang, and also to line up with the rest of the system correctly and clear the headers. Beleive it or the column shaft on both are exactly the same. They use a 3/4 double d spec. This way it will require very little mods to get the universal joint to work with it. We will also use the steady bearing at the end like a Mustang. Just need to fab up a collar. I sacraficed the stock column shoft for now.. as I will eventually be using a floor shift column.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/08/texas_steering_002-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/08/texas_steering_003-1.jpg

Found a home for the cruise control module behind the front wheel and inside the fender.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/08/texas_cruise_control_001-1.jpg

Getting ready to get the shock towers in too. Have all the suspension and tools needed now, so this will start shortly. Too bad 315's won't fit on the front of the car :). Need to find the exact position of the upper mount. To do this we will be building a jig off the front clip we have.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/08/texas_front_susp_021-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/08/texas_front_susp_022-1.jpg

[SVTforme]

Next onto the driveshaft. Believe it or not, a Crown Vic aluminum driveshaft is the perfect length for our setup. Just had to swap out the slip yoke as the T56 uses the only 27 spline shaft in Ford's trans lineup (since it is a GM based trans). Has just enough clearance to the tunnel as well. Now that it is in.. time to get the tunnel made up. We have the rough shape made up.. just need to get it made out of sheetmetal. Note the difference in length from the Mustang one.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/08/texas_driveshaft_001-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/08/texas_driveshaft_002-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/08/Texas_floor_replace_022-1.jpg

[SVTforme]

Slight change in powertrain plans here.. have had one of these engines for a while now, and recently found a second one (both used of course). Could not pass up the deal on them. They are 4.6L 2V engines that use an Eaton M90 supercharger and were designed for use in a 2001-2004 Roush Stage 3 Mustang. Both setups are missing some parts and will require some custom fab to make fit.. but nothing too major. Should be good for over 400hp/400ftlb of torque and will still get great gas mileage (when not under boost at least). The rest of the powertrain is good for 500ish hp so we should be OK there. Two main concerns with this were hood clearance and alternator clearance to framerail. After mocking things up both seem within reason, so I think we are going ahead with it. They will add a bit of weight to the car which is not overly desirable.. but what can you do. The Mach motors will go on the shelf until the next project or sold to offset the cost of these engines. I'll let the pictures tell the rest of the story...

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/08/texas_sc_engine_install_001-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/08/texas_sc_engine_install_002-1.jpg

[wellis77]

Curious where you found an 18x10.5 FR500? I've only seen them in 10" widths, except for the 17x10.5. Thanks.

You cars are looking great by the way. I'm looking forward to seeing the finished products.

[SVTforme]

Curious where you found an 18x10.5 FR500? I've only seen them in 10" widths, except for the 17x10.5. Thanks.


You can get the 18x10.5's, but you can only get them for a 2005+ Mustang. Beleive it or not, the Torino has a narrower track width than a 1999-2004 Mustang, so we needed a larger offset to make the wheels fit correctly on the car and to lower it to where wanted it to sit.

[wellis77]

The narrower track width makes sense why the difference in the 04-08 & 05+. Where did you pick yours up? I've looked some today and have been looking extensively over the last few months and haven't seen them.

[jackfrost]

this is such a great project. reminds me a lot of the SN65 project. nice work so far.

[SVTforme]

The narrower track width makes sense why the difference in the 04-08 & 05+. Where did you pick yours up? I've looked some today and have been looking extensively over the last few months and haven't seen them.

Check with Stage 3 Motorsports - they should have them.

2005+ Mustangs have brakes/hubs/spindles that sit further outboard than the 2004 and before. The track is very similar which makes the backspacing/offset different between the two generations of Mustangs.


this is such a great project. reminds me a lot of the SN65 project. nice work so far.

Thanks! SN65 definitely set the stage for those to come.

[SVTforme]

Couple more updates. Almost have the firewall ready to go in. Worked on getting the wiring pass throughs sorted out and the drivers side piece is now ready to weld to the center portion. Made up some simple carbboard templates to cut out the holes for the Mustang wiring harnesses. Worked great and was very fast. Note sure what I would have done otherwise. Rolled a couple of beads on the part and also step flanged the ends so everything will look flush from underhood after it is welded.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/08/texas_firewall_mods_017-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/08/texas_firewall_mods_018-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/08/texas_firewall_mods_019-1.jpg

[mc84_zz4]

Wow, what an awesome project!

[Trukcrazy]

All I can say guys is this is an unbelievable effort and the results are much more than impressive. This is what I was talking about in my introduction thread. I have always wanted another 68 Torino GT coupe and your work on these cars is just incredible and the information is almost priceless. I just read through this whole thread and am now looking at your website. Incredible.

[ProMav71]

Love the build guys. I'm doing basically the same thing except with my Maverick. I decided to get all the wiring minus the body harness for my 98 Cobra engine setup. I also got the pedals, gauge cluster, etc. I also plan on using the a/c. So as far as the wiring goes most of the stuff will be plug and play. The harnesses will need to go on a diet though. Keep up the work I'm following the build closely!

[WS6]

Can't wait for more updates. I love this build.

[HectorM52]

Subscribed. Awesome build.

[SVTforme]

A couple more updates..

A month or two ago we kinda ran into an interesting once in a lifetime situation and had to act fast. Been talking to a Torino guy on and off for several years now trying to find some parts. Just looking for a couple of odds and ends, nothing major though. The other day I got a call and the same guy asked if I was still interested in parts. I said sure and listed off the parts I was looking to get to finish up our projects.

Long story made short, he was moving out of the country with very little notice (moving within the week) and had to get rid of everything he had fast. I thought OK.. here is a good way to get some good parts to finish the car with and go from there. He said he had a lot of parts and could not list everything. I thought sure.. you have some parts.. but everyone says they have a lot of parts. I struck a deal on everything sight unseen. Little did we know what was to come...

Couple of conditions - we only had a couple days to pick up everything (required several long road trips), we had to take everything (and I mean everything), and we had to take a spare car with the deal (which just happens to be in the form of a 1969 Torino GT FB 351 4-speed car). We have more parts now than we know what to do with. Came with enough parts to almost complete the '69 and likely finish several other cars. Not sure what to do with the '69 yet, but it may become the next car to follow the TwinTorino project as I have plans for future cars. I'll let the pictures tell the rest.. and they only show a portion of what was there. Tons of sheetmetal, tons of NOS parts, etc, etc, etc. I am still sitting here pinching myself on this one.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/09/london_stash_004-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/09/london_stash_003-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/09/london_stash_002-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/09/london_stash_001-1.jpg

[SVTforme]

Back to the suspension once again. We cut the front strut towers out of the wrecked '04 Mustang we had (definitely not up there with the most fun activities to date). After they were out, we needed to drill out spot welds and cut off what we don't need to fit in the Torino. We also cut out the remaining pieces of the stock shock tower in the Torino. The last picture shows a quick mockup. Still need to trim off some material and determine where they have to go exactly. Very pleased with initial fitting - they actually look like they are supposed to be there. Believe it or not, the Torino and Mustang engine compartments are the exact same width (to an 1/8"), and the angle of the sheetmetal in the Torino in front of the strut tower exactly matches the Mustang so they should blend in nicely. The goal it to make it look like they were supposed to be there.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/09/texas_front_susp_023-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/09/texas_front_susp_024-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/09/texas_front_susp_025-1.jpg

[SVTforme]

Wanted to change things up and decided to do something other than suspension and floors. Time to add some lazy man options to the car, in this case power door locks. Since the rest of the car is based of a 2004 Mustang, it only makes sense to use parts we already had from our wrecked cars.

We removed the solenoid that comes on the door latch of a Mustang as you can see below, and bent up some steel brackets to attach them in a way similar to the Mustang (with retention tabs and everything). Also had to make up a tab to weld onto the door lock lever that the solenoid actuates and modified it to move with the geometry of the stock Torino door latch. Was even able to work one of the factory Torino plastic bushings into the mix to keep the steel from cutting the plastic solenoid lever. Plugged it into the Mustang door harness, flicked the switch and it works perfect. Everything fits nicely into the door. Just need to final weld everything, paint it up, grease it up and put it back in the car for good. Could just have easily bought an aftermarket solenoid kit.. but we got the parts basically free with the parts car Mustang. With this you just push the button on a stock Ford remote and the doors will open. They even sound "tinny" like they should.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/09/texas_door_locks_003-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/09/texas_door_locks_005-1.jpg

Got the cruise control module bracket fabbed up and temporarily stuck on the car. Module mounts up great and also started to get the wiring organized and in place.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/09/texas_firewall_mods_020-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/09/texas_firewall_mods_021-1.jpg

Also found a set of rear tires for the car with only 10 miles on them. You can still see the stickers and glue on the treads. Lucked out on this one. Size is 315/30ZR18. They should give us some added traction :).

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/09/torino_michelin_tires_001-1.jpg

[SVTforme]

Moved back to the suspension side of things. Making some good progress up front. The main thing with the suspension was making sure the upper strut mount point on the Torino is the same relative to the lower control arms points as the Mustang. This way the geometry is retained, and the strut travel is maintained for both jounce and rebound. We went back and forth on this one and figured since we have a Mustang front clip, we may as well put it to good use. We made up a jig using some extra material we had, and also used the stock strut retainer braces from the Mustang for positioning the towers. We used sockets as dowel pins to line the jig up with the motor mount plates. Worked like a charm. Once we got this in.. we realized we had some issues with front tire clearance as we new we would. The suspension needs to be adjusted down about 1/2 an inch relative to the body and things should work out great. The tires touch the fender when under full lock and on their way up to full jounce. A combination of moving the suspension a bit, rolling the fenders and getting the correct offset should make things work out perfect. This will also buy us some much needed hood clearance for the supercharger. Shock towers will look nice and clean by the time we are done with everything.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/09/texas_front_susp_026-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/09/texas_front_susp_027-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/09/texas_front_susp_028-1.jpg

[PT_79_TA_461]

i had no idea until now that some stangs had IRS... nice build. good to see another canadian doing somthing super to another classic

[WS6]

This car just gets more kickass with every update!

[minidemon]

Wow what a score on the parts!!!!:eek: I love seening new updates about this project. I'm planing on some thing similar for my '60 Ford Panel Truck. Keep up the exceptional work.

[Bowtie racing]

One of the very best build ups for a long time!! You guys are useing oem stuff really nice :cheers:

[SVTforme]

Thanks for all the comments everyone!!

Been working away at the front suspension a lot lately.. although it does not feel like I am getting anywhere. Decided that using the stock k-member will be almost as complicated in the end as just building one from scratch. Making brackets to mate up to the Torino frame and also shifting the engine back 3.25" relative to where it would be on a Mustang have been the biggest headaches.

We decided to switch to shorter control arms to be able to fit larger tires up front (265's or 275's). This has been a pain because the fender lip is low and covers the top outside edge of the tire, and also the tire hits the coil-over spring on the inside. While the outer lip is fine if you chose to only drive straight - as soon as you turn the tires would scrape on the fender, especially when you move the wheel up to the full jounce position. Four options to get out of this one. 1) Accept a tire size of 245 or less. 2) Add flares to the sheetmetal 3) Move strut inboard via shorter control arms. 4) Bail out on the suspension package and try another one. 1 and 2 we were not willing to accept, and 4 was too expensive and we didn't want to have to work with a mystery suspension design. Turns out option 3 was easier than we thought as we can just use 79-93 Fox body Mustang tubular control arms which are .9" shorter.

We ended up finding a used set of Maximum Motorsports Fox body tubular control arms used online. These actually have a forward offset of .75" in addition (ball joint moves ahead, pivot points stay in the same place) meaning we could squeeze a bit more caster out of them (targeting 5°-7° caster). The only reason these work for us is because we can put the shock towers anywhere we want them and can achieve the camber we need. This would not be the case if you were to start with a 94-04 Mustang and add 79-93 control arms. We'll have to wvaluate what this will do bumpsteer in the car once everything gets bolted in and make adjustments if necessary.

After doing lots of measuring and thinking.. I almost have a design that is ready to build. This will bolt into the stock Torino frame rails in the front. Just need to weld in sleeves into the frame. This will clear the oilpan, headers, steering linkage and move the engine back 3.25" and allow all the suspension to bolt up where it needs to go. It will also clear the alternator (which is low on the Roush kit), oil filter, lower rad hose and A/C compressor. Once we build a jig for this - we should be able to make copies pretty easily for future projects.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/10/torino_k_member_001-1.jpg

[SVTforme]

Finally making some more progress..

Had my first issue with Ebay.. thankfully it turned out OK in the end. I bought a set of Fox body tubular front control arms which I thought were made by Maximumum Motorsports (one of the highest quality Mustang tubular control arms you can buy). Got them in and they did not look right or fit right. Sitting 5 feet away they looked like the real deal. Turns out in the end they were knock-offs from another company. Once I convinced the seller they were not legit (he was not aware either), I got my money back and send them back. In the meantime I was able to convince someone to trade me straight up for the ones I had already. As you can see, they are much shorter which works out perfect. I now have lots of tire clearance and should be able to fit 275's up front which was the original goal (2004 Cobra used this size).

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/11/texas_front_susp_029-1.jpg

First problem after installing new arms - tire rods are too long. Solution - 1993 Taurus outer rod ends. Works great now.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/11/texas_front_susp_030-1.jpg

Also aborted mission for now on the tubular k-member. Too much time and money for the time being. The stock k-member is likely stronger regardless. In that case - started to work on getting the motor mount brackets modified to get the engine shifted back as far as possible.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/11/texas_front_susp_031-1.jpg

[SVTforme]

Unfortunately with the Fox control arms being used, this also means the upper strut mount needs to move inboard to be able to get the alignment settings right. This meant we needed to cut up the jig and make it adjustable using threaded rods and nuts.

The goal here is to be able to set the front wheels to 2-3° of neg camber for the track, and then adjust them back to 0.5° neg camber for the street. The caster is also being increased relative to stock. Looks like 275's will fit up front when using the 0.5° setting which is great news.

All that is needed to set things into position is to flip the camber plates upside down and swap side to side. This way they can be bolted to the jig. Next max the camber setting inboard and then take suspension measurements. Keep adjusting the fixture outboard until the max neg camber is achieved. After this, unbolt and put on shock towers. Lots more sheetmetal work ahead, but it should hopefully work out in the end. Turns out the inner surface of the shock towers is almost flush with the origional fram rail which make things easier fab wise.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/11/texas_front_susp_032-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/11/texas_front_susp_033-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/11/texas_front_susp_034-1.jpg

[SVTforme]

Got the point where we finalized the front strut mounts and achieved the desired caster and camber targets (took a lot more time than planned to manipulate everything to get it perfect). Now it is time to bridge the gap between the Mustang strut towers and the Torino. Went out and bought half a sheet of 16 gauge steel (same as the Mustang towers) and made up templates using cardboard. Just need to bend these up in steel, cut and weld into position.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/11/texas_front_susp_035-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/11/texas_front_susp_036-1.jpg

Also landed a couple of good deals in the past week or two. Bought a set of tires for the track for $100 - Michelin Pilot Sport Cups. These come new on the Porsche GT3 and the Viper ACR. These ones are 265/35 18's and have lots of life left on them. Will use these as fronts and track down a wider set of rears (or just use them all the way around around so they can be rotated). Also picked up a set of Rebco corner weight scales for setting up and weighing the cars. I bought them as non-functional for only $25. After and hour of troubleshooting and fixing as issue with the circuit board, I had them up and running. I always wanted a set, but could never justify the $1500 cost. Now I can weigh anything and everything on the car, and the car itself. Will be interesting to see the weight difference between the motors etc.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/11/michelin_pilot_sport_cup_001-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/11/rebco_scales_001-1.jpg

[CruizinKev]

man thats awesome :twothumbs

[icebird84]

looking good

[69Camaro/70 Velle]

Always liked those fast back Torino's. This one is going to be outrages.

[dusterbd13]

ive been watching this since thw start. i have to say that this is impressive. and a wonderful idea with the jig. im looking forward to seeing more.

keep up the good work.
michael

[streetrod77]

Good work and good information on suspension. I may have to check into fox body A arms compared to my Comet A arms, I need longer ones.

[ProMav71]

How much was that Mustang firewall? I've got a cut up one sitting in my Maverick right now and getting that whole piece would save me a ton of fab work if its not too much $.

[SVTforme]

I think it was around $140. Sure beats trying to cut one out of an actual car. It comes with the stiffening plate near the steering column area.

[cheapthrillz]

Wow, this build is just awesome! Maybe I need to rethink my plans for my car...

[SVTforme]

We made up the filler pieces for the strut towers this week. 16 gauge sheetmetal is definitely not as easy to work with as 20 gauge. Hope to get everything in and fit up this week and ready to weld in next week. Actually feels like I am getting somewhere now. The only pain with making these up was that none of the angles were 90 deg and each face of the strut tower has a slight crown - looks the like the stretcher/shrinker is going to get a good workout.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/12/texas_front_susp_037-1.jpg

Finally found another set of Konis for the front of the car. They almost never come up used as they are not very common since they are double adjustables (likely because they retail for close to $1k for a pair). Since we can't afford that.. or even close we just have to wait to get them for 20% of that. Easy way to pick out a double adjustable Koni is to look for the screw for adjustment on the bottom which both sets have. Single adjustables (rebound only) only have have sdjustments on the top of the strut rod.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/12/texas_front_susp_038-1.jpg

Dusted off the stretcher/shrinker and formed the sides and top of the strut towers. Also cut the bottom piece to fit and trimmed the shock tower to mate with the bottom piece. They should look factory stamped by the time we are done with them. Also made the filler panel for the section that was cut of from the original shock towers. Just need to trim things to fit and we will be ready to weld.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/12/texas_front_susp_039-1.jpg

[jackfrost]

just plain awesome fab work. nice job.

[SVTforme]

Got a couple more things done this week. Found a set of nearly new rear adjustable Konis specifically made for the IRS suspension. Just need to make some custom upper mounts.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/12/Texas_IRS_016-1.jpg

Also got the pass side upper shock tower piece bent up. Stretcher shrinker combo works miracles with ease. Also got the drivers side upper piece tacked in, and worked on the front filler panel. Most things are almost ready to weld in.. but I ran out of Argon so I have to wait another couple of days to get the bottle filled.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/12/texas_front_susp_040-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/12/texas_front_susp_041-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/12/texas_front_susp_042-1.jpg

[CruizinKev]

awesome!!!

[SVTforme]

Managed to work on the car a bit over Christmas. Hoping to maybe even get the car back down on the ground soon enough. I got a Longacre caster/camber gauge for Christmas this year so it was time to put it to the test. It is a nice billet piece with lots of bubble levels on it. The only unknown parameter in the mix was the caster that needed to be set for the vehicle (as camber is relatively easy to measure with a digital level). Ford recommends 3.6-4.3 deg caster on the Mustang. We are setting it to approx a min of 4.5 and max of whatever the caster/camber plates allow. The larger number will mainly be used on the track. These numbers are generally agreed upon in the Mustang world, and lower recommended numbers are based on the fact that the Mustang was designed with the "average" vehicle owner in mind. The shock towers were simply slid forward until we saw the measurements we wanted. They are now fixed in place.

Also managed to find a barely used pair of 275/35R18 Michelin Pilot PS2 tires to try out on the car (same size/model as a newer Viper so they are not that hard to find). They were mounted up on the car and we ran through a clearance check and they fit perfectly. The hardest part about getting a tire to fit is while turning the tire when the front suspension is compressed, and they also need to clear the coil-over suspension.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/12/texas_front_susp_043-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/12/texas_front_susp_044-1.jpg

Also moving right along on the front strut towers. Have all of the pieces tacked together on the driver's side and everything fits great. Should be able to weld these in soon. Just need to add a piece in the top corners and they should look factory stamped.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/12/texas_front_susp_045-1.jpg

[csx4766]

This is an awesome project. You are both doing grea work, Love the Torino's. Just read the entire thread from beginning to end.

Morgan

[SVTforme]

I bought myself a Christmas present this year. I managed to find a set of barely used Schroth 4-point harnesses. They are the Rallye 4 models. They tie into the stock mounting points on the front, and use the rear lap belt anchors in the rear. They also have a buckle to detatch the shoulder harness so someone can sit in the back which is nice since they are designed to be installed with the rear lap belts still in place. These are actually DOT approved unlike many other racing harnesses out there. Since the cars will be driven regularly on the street and on the track - these seemed to make the most sense.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/01/sparco_torino_003-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/01/sparco_torino_004-1.jpg

[PhillipM]

Did you ever get the tunnel finished? I have never done one using the method that you are showing with intermediate cross pieces. I have always rolled one large piece but I'm thinking I could get a more form fitting piece doing it your way. Would love some pictures if you have any.

Also, I have been wondering are both cars coming along at the same speed? Are you guys working on them in the same garage or in different garages?

[SVTforme]

Did you ever get the tunnel finished? I have never done one using the method that you are showing with intermediate cross pieces. I have always rolled one large piece but I'm thinking I could get a more form fitting piece doing it your way. Would love some pictures if you have any.

Also, I have been wondering are both cars coming along at the same speed? Are you guys working on them in the same garage or in different garages?

Tunnel is waiting on the final powertrain positioning. That is waiting on the suspension being welded in. Should be getting back to that point fairly soon.

Car #2 is hanging out waiting for the first car to get off the chassis jig. Should go much much faster now that we have a plan for everything and have collected all the pieces. Both cars are in different garages but will be moving to the same place once the first car goes back down on the ground. Can only fit 2 cars in the garage at a time unfortunately. I'll have to kick my other car out when the time comes.

[SVTforme]

Making some more progress once again. Finished tacking in the rear side of the drivers side strut tower. Just need to make some small pieces to clean up the top of the strut tower and it will be time for final welding. Everything fit together and matched the contours much better than expected.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/01/texas_front_susp_046-1.jpg

Made a close-out panel at the rear of the pass side strut tower. In order to clear the air dryer for the A/C and to to mate up with the new firewall, it was just easier to make this from scratch. Once this piece is done, the strut tower can be finished as well.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/01/texas_front_susp_047-1.jpg

Decided to put everything together once again and check all the clearances one more time before we start welding parts to the car. The hydoboost unit and the hood hinges clear the new strut towers, so we can now proceed with them as in that location.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/01/texas_front_susp_048-1.jpg

[Young Gun]

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/01/michaeljacksoneatspopcorn-1.gif

I am thoroughly enjoying this build

[SDS MACHINING]

I am thoroughly enjoying this build

X2!! I can appreciate the amount of work gone into this build.. Nicely done!

[vdaviemusclecars]

Looks good. Putting that same motor in a 70 Cougar. Dam, a lot of fab work had to be done. Had i known it was going to be that much work i would not have done it. Well i'm not doing it. I had the motor built, Gt40 heads, its supercharged and inter-cooled, stroked ect..But those motors a fat! Working with Ford on the wiring harness, so should have it done in the next few months. The car was in Car Craft before i started...should have just left it alone and saved all the cash!

[fordsbyjay]

Wow, I just finished reading all that and it is truly awesome.

[SVTforme]

Finally have the drivers side tower completely welded and finished up and ready to tack in.. it's about time! Pass side is welded and should be finished up tomorrow night. Just need to blast everything and paint it to get rid of all the contrasting colors. I quickly splashed some black primer on one of them to keep me insired :). Also have all of the close-outs done and ready to weld in too. Just need to make a jig to be able to plasma cut a k-member to fit and make it very easy to do more than one. Can't wait to actually get a real motor in there.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/01/texas_front_susp_049-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/01/texas_front_susp_050-1.jpg

[chunger]

Look at that - when you get everything cleaned up and finalized. Your job is going to look like it came from the factory!

Nicely done, my friend.

[torino420]

Look at that - when you get everything cleaned up and finalized. Your job is going to look like it came from the factory!

Nicely done, my friend.
Agreed, unbelievable work!

[CruizinKev]

:drool: :twothumbs

[Jeffrotech]

Nice!

[SVTforme]

Couple more updates from the past week.

Finally found a steering wheel for the cars.. been looking for a while on this one. Two reasons for this choice: the style is "somewhat" similar to the original with the single horizonal bar, and secondly Sparco has been clearing out some wheels on Ebay cheap so this made them affordable too. We'll see what it looks like in the car I guess. The model is called "Veloce" and is leather with the perforated leather strip at the top.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/01/sparco_veloce_wheel_001-1.jpg

Moving right along on the front suspension. Pass side strut tower is done and ready to tack in. Next step was to make a perfectly centered and tight fitting k-member. The one we have been using to date is hacked up and really only for setting things up. Time to make another jig for this. As you can see, nothing too elaborate, but it serves it's purpose. We used reference holes on the part used at the assembly plant to locate the jig. Then we made up 2x4's that are the exact width between the frame rails. Finally two pieces of plywood are used to conform to the curves of the part. To use, the jig is placed on a Mustang K-member, sockets are placed in the 4 holes to located jig and then a utility knife blade is used to scribe lines on the parts. After that, we break out the plasma cutter and trim/grind to suit. Works like a charm! Making one for car #2 is now a breeze.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/01/texas_front_susp_051-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/01/texas_front_susp_052-1.jpg

We used it to cut the k-member shown and it fits perfectly. That will make it very easy to weld in. Started on making up pieces to run under the frame rails to clean up the package and add a bit more stiffness. Kinda looks like the k-member was meant to be in there. Just need to make up the rear ones and the k-member will be ready to go in. Only thing left now is to weld in the filler panels and modify the motor mounts. After that, the front suspension is done!!
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/01/texas_front_susp_053-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/01/texas_front_susp_054-1.jpg

[chunger]

Awesome progress, it's really coming together now.

One question, given that you've substantially changed the front end, is there any concern that you'll be stressing the remaining framerails/fenderwells way beyond what they were ever designed for? Do you plan on adding additional bracing (such as a bar over the engine & between the strut towers?) or anything else?

Thanks.

[Dalamar]

Wow SVT, I just read through this whole thread and I really like what you're doing. I love that you're doing all the suspension/chassis work yoruself. looks great.
It's suprisingly similar to the build I am doing.
just put an 03 cobra IRS in our 67 mustang, and and are about to tear into cutting the firewall out of a 97, and transfer all that stuff along with the dash and interior.

Great choice on power train, the 4V Termy motor is a great motor.
Love your rendered' drawing and also really like the C stripe.

Awsome build and keep up the good work.

[69face]

VERY AWESOME BUILD! AND YES I AM YELLING:machine:, BUT NOT AT ANYONE IN PARTICULAR!:) LOL GREAT JOB! KEEP IT UP!:worship::jawdrop:

[chevyhector]

I have to hand it to you SVT ! Great job! Will you have 'build site" after the build is complete?

[SVTforme]

Chunger - to answer your question, yes we are adding some stiffening elements under the upper fender mounts (aka shotguns) to tie the shock towers into the main body structure a little better. We will also be connecting the subframe connectors to the front k-member. Should not take too much. May add strut tower brake in if we can get it to clear the blower, but I am not sure how effective they will really be. Once the k-member is welded in.. it will stiffen that area up nicely.

Dalamar - It is debatable whether or not is was worth spending all this time on fabricating the suspension for the car.. but it sure was a great learning experience and we get exactly what we want in the end. Unfortunately, there is not really any great aftermarket suspension kits out there for Torinos (not as lucky as the Camaro guys :) ). For the record - brand new firewalls are really cheap from Ford. I can dig up the part number if need it. You have a thread going for your car - sounds interesting.

Thanks to everyone else :). Build site is already up and running - www.twintorino.com (http://www.twintorino.com) .

[SVTforme]

When we removed the shock towers the steel was flaking away a bit, but I thought it was nothing out of the oridinary. The more I picked away at it.. the larger the hole got. Have to attack this before the towers go back in. Should last a couple more years now. This also brings up the question - how the heck do you get at this area if the stock towers are still in the car? Most people do not have the novelty we do by not having them in the way. Still have to fix the underside where the rest of the water went and rotted things away. Once this is done, front suspension is ready to be welded in for good (finally).

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/01/texas_front_susp_055-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/01/texas_front_susp_056-1.jpg

Since the front suspension is finishing up, time to move back to the rear once again. Had a lot of time to think about this one now, so time to put it in action. Biggest issue with designing anything in the rear is the tire clearance. Fitting the 315's back there requires lots of room. Couple of constraints here - the outer fender lip since the tire will sit within it, the springs and the shocks. We went back and forth on coil over shocks, but in the end they are expensive and take up precious tire clearance. The Koni 3012 dual adjutables we wanted were $500 each alone + springs and they are impossible to find used. As you may have noticed, we likely to track things down at discount prices. They also do not provide the most desirable load path as the shock mounting holes are outboard of the frame rail. Many of the aftermarket kits out there use single shear mounts on the outside of the frame rail which we are not big fans of. The shocks even without the coil-overs will require notching the frame, although very minimally. The result here.. the springs and shocks will mount in separate locations like the stock Mustang.

In the end, this is how we decided to mount the spring. We are using the stock spring pocket on the lower control arm, but using a much smaller spring. We started with 2 u-bends as you can see, and turned them into a doughnut. This way we maximize surface area to distribute the load. Just need to add a flat plate in the middle and a small wedge to angle the spring as required. In this configuratins, the springs sit directly under the frame rails. Then we simply add a mount to the frame rail. Notice we are also adding an adjustable sleeve for fine tuning the ride height. Since we are running fairly stiff springs all around, we will be using helper springs (very low stiffness) to keep the springs in place when the suspension goes into full rebound.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/01/Texas_IRS_017-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/01/Texas_IRS_018-1.jpg

[SVTforme]

Moving right along - have the Mustang K-member mounting tabs completed. Only thing left to do it shift the engine mounts back 3" to get the engine as far back as possible. Since the steel on the stock mounts is 3/16" thick, this means the std brake won't cut it. Have to move the the hydraulic press for these bends. Got them ready to weld in over the weekend. Will get them welded in this week and then it is finally time to weld the front suspension permanently into the car.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/texas_front_susp_057-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/texas_front_susp_058-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/texas_front_susp_059-1.jpg

Also found a complete vehicle wiring harness set from a Mustang GT and heater box / ducting parts.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/torino_wiring_005-1.jpg

[BrianE]

Just read the whole thread...amazing build!!!!!! Cannot wait to see it finished..

[SVTforme]

You and me both - I can't wait to see them on the road too!

You never know what you will find on Craiglist.. that is for sure. Responded to an ad for a Mustang rear suspension and a couple of hours later.. ended up with another Cobra IRS in the driveway. This one is out of a '99 Cobra (28 spline inner/outer axles). Could not pass up the deal at $175. Not sure where it will go or what to do with it.. but it will find it's way into another project - no worries there.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/IRS_99_stash_001-1.jpg

Got the motor mount extensions tacked in and ready to go. Likely won't go much further with these or drill motor mount holes until the actual engine goes in and we can check clearances. That way it can go back as far as possible. To do that we will just cut the studs off an old set of motor mounts which will allow the motor to easily slide back. K member is now ready to weld in. Just need to finish up the strut towers are front suspension will be almost done.. finally!

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/texas_front_susp_060-1.jpg

Started working on the strut tower stiffening braces. These will directly tie the strut towers to the upper "shotgun" pieces on the body. These tie into the reinforcements plates on the Mustang strut towers.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/texas_front_susp_061-1.jpg

[SVTforme]

Started pulling everything apart before the re-welding begins. This one definitely screamed Kodak moment. This is a close to a skeleton as it will go - will be a nice picture to look back on. The car sure looks awful like this :). Everything from now on will be an uphill battle and the car will start to look better by the day.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/texas_front_susp_064-1.jpg

Finally have the drivers side strut tower completed and ready to weld in. Got the stiffener plate welded on and have all the close-out panels welded in and ready to go. Hope to finish the pass side one this week and get them welded in for good. Only a year behind schedule on these :).

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/texas_front_susp_062-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/texas_front_susp_063-1.jpg

[chunger]

Looking good, my friend. You're turning a corner with this one. I predict once you have the front end all done, the rest is going to fall into place.

Is that a Ranchero tailgate i spotted in the background? A little something from the parts stash?

[Bob's68]

Awesome build

This drips of win:1st:

[Dalamar]

Nice finds.
I've got the same air box, along with the dash.
We rebuilt the IRS we got with the Maximum Motorsports bushing kit. as you probably know the stock rubber bushings are too soft.
Have you decided what ring gear you want, and what to do with that IRS?

[SVTforme]

Is that a Ranchero tailgate i spotted in the background? A little something from the parts stash?

Good eye - that is a 68/69 Racnhero tailgate just taking up space in the garage. Not really sure why I have not moved it elsewhere yet.


Nice finds.
I've got the same air box, along with the dash.
We rebuilt the IRS we got with the Maximum Motorsports bushing kit. as you probably know the stock rubber bushings are too soft.
Have you decided what ring gear you want, and what to do with that IRS?

I have been meaning to comment on your build and let you know a couple of things I have learned along the way that will likely help you. I'll post it over on your thread. Looks great so far though.

As for the dash - I think I am doing the opposite to what you are doing :). I will have a stock looking dash that will have all the modern Mustang electroinics behind it. Have a plan for everything that we are going to do.. just have to get to that stage.

I'll be putting in the Delrin bushings eventually to match the front. Will be moving onto the rear IRS mounting within the week. Have that all planned out - just have to do the mods and make up the parts. Goal is to make it look completely stock. The hardest part as you know is to get the same stock suspension position as a stock non-lowered Mustang, and lowering the body on top of it to suit. Everything was driven by suspension geomemetry, distributing the forces correctly and fitting a set of 315's in the rear without adding any type of fender flares. IRS and wheel wells sure make that part difficult as you know. That forced us to move the mounting points inward. Also made using coil-over shocks not possible due to tire clearance, although we were trying to avoid putting the spring load in single shear to the control arm anyway.

Not sure what to do with the IRS - it will find a home eventually though. That is IRS #4 for us.. so it is spare number 2 :). Not sure on the gearing. Since we are running the 6 speeds with 2 overdrive gears, we may step up to 3:73's or 4:10's - not sure yet. Will have to see what speed that puts us in for 2nd gear at high RPM.

[JMarsa]

Nice Fab work. What's the solid X shaped piece on the bottom called? Is it a V Block? I think I might need to get one.

--JMarsa


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/texas_front_susp_057-1.jpg

[JMarsa]

Looks like it's called a 4 Way die. I dig it.

--JMarsa

[Bjkadron]

It looks like a really heavy v-block to me.

Looking good svt!

[shortrack]

amazing build....wow!.....Motorcity Canada??.....wherebouts in Oshawa are you guys???:)

[SVTforme]

It looks like a really heavy v-block to me.

Looking good svt!

You got it. It is a v-block specifically for bending various radii on a hydraulic press. The v-block most people are used to are the ones that are used to drill holes in a cylinder and keep the piece from moving. Wouldn't want to use one of those in a press :).


amazing build....wow!.....Motorcity Canada??.....wherebouts in Oshawa are you guys???:)

Well.. we are closer to the US Motorcity actually.

[SVTforme]

Couple more updates..
Finally stuff on the front suspension is going in for good. Final prepped everything on the drivers side strut tower, drilled all kinds of holes for plug welds and welded everything in. We will wait until we get the car on a rotisserie to well all the way from top to bottom. With the plug welds ground down, it looks like the pieces were supposed to be there. Just need to weld in the pass side and it will be time to put the k-member in for good. Almost done with the front - hard to believe.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/03/texas_front_susp_065-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/03/texas_front_susp_066-1.jpg

On that note - time to catch up on the rear suspension. Finally decided how to do the rear mounts on the IRS. We used one of the 2.5"x1/8" tubes we have made up for the front mounts, cut one in half and will use the 2 pieces to make up both rear mounts. We lucked out and it looks as though the rear tubes use the same 5" radius as our bends do. Big thing is the rear mount will still clear the 315's with stock wheel lips. Just need to go grab some more steel to make up the actual brackets that bolt to the frame as we used a scrap piece for now that was a bit too small. Next we need to make up pockets in the frame for the shocks and clearance for the upper control arms. We'll be on the ground in no time.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/03/Texas_IRS_019-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/03/Texas_IRS_020-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/03/Texas_IRS_021-1.jpg

[chunger]

SVT - Looking good, man. It's going to feel great to get it back on the ground!

One question - it appears that you're going to need to remove about half of the existing frame rail to clear the upper arm - that's easy enough to box in. BUT any concern over the loss of strength? Will you be sistering another piece on the inside to support it?

[SVTforme]

We will only need to remove some material off the out edge fortunately since the inner pivot point of the control is not that far away from the inner edge of the frame rail. Anything we remove we will definitely replace elsewhere. The goal here is to allow for the same jounce travel as a stock Mustang.

The nice thing about rigidly mounting the IRS (as opposed to using bushings at the mounting point as they were on Mustangs) is that the IRS cradle also acts to stiffen the overall rear frame section of the car.

[chunger]

Ah, good point. I overlooked that you were rigidly mounting the IRS. That does make a huge difference in strength.

Might also make it kinda tight to run the exhaust past it, won't it? That is, assuming the exhaust will run past it and not out the side somewhere. But, I'm sure you'll come up with a clever solution to that to.

I'm subscribed, and enjoying your build.

[SVTforme]

The exhaust will likely go between the two lower control arms like on a stock Mustang. Not the way I would prefer, but it will work. Exhaust will be going out the back.

[JMarsa]

Could you provide a source for these?

--JMarsa


You got it. It is a v-block specifically for bending various radii on a hydraulic press. The v-block most people are used to are the ones that are used to drill holes in a cylinder and keep the piece from moving. Wouldn't want to use one of those in a press :).



Well.. we are closer to the US Motorcity actually.

[Dalamar]

Good idea to cut and mount the IRS frame directly to the car.
beefy and brings it in closer.




The nice thing about rigidly mounting the IRS (as opposed to using bushings at the mounting point as they were on Mustangs) is that the IRS cradle also acts to stiffen the overall rear frame section of the car.

Definately.

Nice progress.

[andrewb70]

This project continues to amaze me!

Andrew

[SVTforme]

Could you provide a source for these?

--JMarsa

I'll have to check on this one - I borrowed it from work. I would think someone like MSC Industrial Supply or Production Tool Supply would have something along those lines.

[SVTforme]

Made some more progress on the front suspension/firewall. Pass side firewall is now near completion and mates up nicely with the torque boxes (easier said that done). After that, the rear closeout was welded in for good, and then the strut tower was tacked in too. Will finish welding up the tower and then weld in the k-member this week. After that - front suspension is basically done except for the swaybar setup which should be fairly easy anyway. It will be based off a Mustang one.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/03/texas_front_susp_067-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/03/texas_front_susp_068-1.jpg

Moving on the rear IRS once again, we bent up some 1/8" brackets for the rear mounts. Have the pass side mount almost ready to go. Just need to get some crush sleeves made up for the frame and these will be ready to weld in for good. May be hoping in getting the car back onto the ground for the end of the month. This means car #2 can begin. This also leads to the next step which you can see below.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/03/Texas_IRS_022-1.jpg

Almost ready to build the rotisserie. Finally have the design near complete. Casters are ordered, I have the hydraulic jacks from when they went on sale last week, and also have a bearing/housing setup that I found kicking around. Just need to grab the steel. Rotating part is based on a std. trailer spindle which make things cheap and easy to find parts for. Also makes it easy to seal things up for bringing near the sandblaster etc. We will just run dynamic trailer seals on both side of the bearing. Worm gear setup on the end is from a Harbor Freight winch. Made this up in Solidworks 2010 - CAD sure has come a long way. Have this designed so it will pick the car up off the chassis fixture (remove the center section and add the 3rd set of wheels).

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/03/rotisserie_002-1.jpg

[LSx_88_Ciera]

Amazing stuff both the car and rotisserie.
How much do you estimate you will have invested in the rotisserie?

[SVTforme]

Amazing stuff both the car and rotisserie.
How much do you estimate you will have invested in the rotisserie?

Goal is under $400-500 everything included. Should be pretty close to that.

[ATOMonkey]

That is one hell of a rotissery!

I remember when CAD was just wire frame. Amazing...

[cl08]

I learned CAD on DOS with digitizers... Release 10. Guy I work with messed with AutoCAD beta. 5 1/4" bliss!!!! I have not meesed with much of the newest Solidworks, mostly CADWorx on my end (MEchanical Design/Piping/Pressure Vessels).

NICE RENDER. I take it that will BOM all the parts you created and all that good stuff huh?

Keep posting...

[undaerasmo]

How Much was your Rotisserie and if you have web site, please email
Made some more progress on the front suspension/firewall. Pass side firewall is now near completion and mates up nicely with the torque boxes (easier said that done). After that, the rear closeout was welded in for good, and then the strut tower was tacked in too. Will finish welding up the tower and then weld in the k-member this week. After that - front suspension is basically done except for the swaybar setup which should be fairly easy anyway. It will be based off a Mustang one.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/03/texas_front_susp_067-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/03/texas_front_susp_068-1.jpg

Moving on the rear IRS once again, we bent up some 1/8" brackets for the rear mounts. Have the pass side mount almost ready to go. Just need to get some crush sleeves made up for the frame and these will be ready to weld in for good. May be hoping in getting the car back onto the ground for the end of the month. This means car #2 can begin. This also leads to the next step which you can see below.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/03/Texas_IRS_022-1.jpg

Almost ready to build the rotisserie. Finally have the design near complete. Casters are ordered, I have the hydraulic jacks from when they went on sale last week, and also have a bearing/housing setup that I found kicking around. Just need to grab the steel. Rotating part is based on a std. trailer spindle which make things cheap and easy to find parts for. Also makes it easy to seal things up for bringing near the sandblaster etc. We will just run dynamic trailer seals on both side of the bearing. Worm gear setup on the end is from a Harbor Freight winch. Made this up in Solidworks 2010 - CAD sure has come a long way. Have this designed so it will pick the car up off the chassis fixture (remove the center section and add the 3rd set of wheels).

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/03/rotisserie_002-1.jpg

[MonzaRacer]

http://www.pbtoolings.com/4waydies.htm

[strtcar]

Great build

[ryeguy2006a]

I spent about an hour and a half on Saturday, just looking and reading your thread, and the work that you are doing is phenomenal. Kudos on a great job, will be looking for updates in the future.

[John Wright]

I learned CAD on DOS with digitizers... Release 10.
LOL...me too, and nobody here to teach me, so I had to fumble around until I got the hang of it...then it was off to the races when the windows based clickable icons were worked into Autocad 11 or 12...(I forget it's been awhile)


This has been some interesting reading. I read through the whole thread today...can't wait to see this baby on the ground.

[modular93fox]

this reminds me of the sn65 thread a long while ago... awesome job on everything!

[SVTforme]

I appreciate all the comments - still having a lot of fun with this project. Just takes a bit longer that one expects, especially when you do it in your garage with just 2 people.

Nice to know a CAD model can be mistaken for something real. Unfortunately there is not a brand or place you can buy this rotisserie :).

Speaking of which - hoping to build a majority of the rotisserie this weekend. Picked up the steel last Friday, and the rest of the parts and pieces should be here by this Friday. Managed to find an auto supplier that had excess steel from jobs that had been cancelled so we got it for a good price. Got some 3"x3"x3/16", 2.5"x2.5"x3/16", and some 2.5"x2.5"x1/8". I already had the 2"x2"x1/8", and that covers everything besides the plate.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/03/rotisserie_005-1.jpg

Hit a major milestone over the weeked - front k-member is now welded in and the strut towers have both been finished off. We verified the caster and camber settings, and once we established they were correct, it was welded in for good. Front suspension is now ready to go on the ground! Just have to weld up some of the seams once on the rotisserie and it will be a done deal on the front. As soon as the car hits the ground - the motor is ready to go in. Just have to figure out how far back it can sit and then can drill the new holes in the offset motor mount brackets.

Sway bar is the only thing left. Will be using a straight hollow splined bar from Speedway Engineering with offset sway bar arms. Will use a PVC pipe to package one in for now until the bar rates are selected. To select those, final springs rates need to be selected, which is waiting on the overall corner weights of the car. Won't have those for a while.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/03/texas_front_susp_069-1.jpg

The push is now on to get the rear on the ground. We cut the rear mount to size and welded the tube to it. Just need to drill holes through bracket and frame rails, weld in crush sleeves and weld the tube to the IRS cradle. The front mounts are also done and just need to be welded to the IRS cradle. After that it will bolt right up to the frame in the rear. That leaves the shock mounts and springs mounts which are also nearing completion. Looks like we will be on the ground soon. Just need the rotisserie done so we can pick it up of the chassis jig and put it back down on the ground.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/03/Texas_IRS_023-1.jpg

[John Wright]

Wow!...engine bay looks great all nice and tidy
(looks nearbout factory!-no kidd'n)


BTW, what is the rate on a PVC sway bar?...LOL

[SVTforme]

BTW, what is the rate on a PVC sway bar?...LOL

It is likely close to the same rate as the original one that came with the car :).

[droptop73]

This is an amazing build. WOW

[ProMav71]

Bro, you need to make us some plans for that rotisserie. I looked all over the internet for some the other day and nothing anywhere near as nice as what you designed there. I really wanna build one of these.

[SVTforme]

Bro, you need to make us some plans for that rotisserie. I looked all over the internet for some the other day and nothing anywhere near as nice as what you designed there. I really wanna build one of these.

Yeah.. I had thought about making something up as far as plans go. We'll see how this all turns out in the end. Made quite a few changes after we started to build things.. hopefully everything will function as expected in the end :).

[SVTforme]

Made some progress on the rotisserie and the car. Most of the parts arrived for the rotisserie by the time Friday rolled around. Got a good portion of the cutting and drilling completed over the weekend and started into welding it together. Goes pretty fast once you get into the groove. Hope to have it up and functional by this weekend. Need to get the car back on the ground - it has been too long.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/03/rotisserie_006-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/03/rotisserie_007-1.jpg

[chunger]

SVT - I think I speak for loads of ppl on this board - we can't wait to see how the rotisserie comes out!

[SVTforme]

Moving right along.. been a busy week. Our goal was to have the car ready to go on the ground by the end of March. We were working right up until 12:00 and baraly finished most everthing. Just need to finish up the rotisserie and it can go back on the ground for the first time.
Drilled out the frame for crush tubes and welded those into the frame so the brackets can be safely bolted to the frame structure. Once those were done, it was time to weld the tubes at all 4 corners of the assembly. We pulled the entire IRS out and finished all of the welds up. It kinda looks like the tubes came that way from the factory :).

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/04/Texas_IRS_024-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/04/Texas_IRS_025-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/04/Texas_IRS_026-1.jpg

Also may be changing the wheels up a bit. We got a couple of set of Roush forged 18x10 wheels (scratch and ding models) and decided we may like these better. As luck may have it, the offsets were very close front and rear. Only problem is that an 18x10 won't like the front clearances, so we are going to have to get the fronts narrowed since there is no such thing as an 18x9 in this model. Not the hugest fan of chrome, but it is growing on me.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/04/texas_front_susp_070-1.jpg

[chunger]

SVT,

Are those the crush tubes pictured? They appear to be simple mild steel tubes, no? Do they deform when under tension? If so, where'd you get them?

You'll probably want to put the car on the ground to really get a feel for the wheels.

Looking good!

[SVTforme]

They are just simple mild sleeve tubes as you suggest. They keep the frame rails from deflecting when the fasteners are tight. They will allow the fasteners to work properly and distribute the loads as they should.

We bought bulk lengths from McMaster Carr, which is where we got many of the pieces for the rotissrerie as well.

[John Wright]

Like he said, the fasteners can crush the tubing as you tighten them and then they will become loose....so this a good fabricating practice and is required on any hollow material section.

[ProMav71]

You guys dont waste any time! Cant wait to see the rotisserie finished.

[Bjkadron]

Moving right along.. been a busy week. Our goal was to have the car ready to go on the ground by the end of March. We were working right up until 12:00 and baraly finished most everthing. Just need to finish up the rotisserie and it can go back on the ground for the first time.
Drilled out the frame for crush tubes and welded those into the frame so the brackets can be safely bolted to the frame structure. Once those were done, it was time to weld the tubes at all 4 corners of the assembly. We pulled the entire IRS out and finished all of the welds up. It kinda looks like the tubes came that way from the factory :).





Also may be changing the wheels up a bit. We got a couple of set of Roush forged 18x10 wheels (scratch and ding models) and decided we may like these better. As luck may have it, the offsets were very close front and rear. Only problem is that an 18x10 won't like the front clearances, so we are going to have to get the fronts narrowed since there is no such thing as an 18x9 in this model. Not the hugest fan of chrome, but it is growing on me.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/04/texas_front_susp_070-1.jpg

You know... you could just strip them and paint them whatever color /finish you wanted. This would work even better if you were going to narrow them anyway.

[SVTforme]

Been on vacation in LA for the past 2 weekends - so not much work done on the cars lately. Got motivated after watching the autocross at the Goodguys in Del Mar - so it was time to get back at the cars again. Seems to be very few Torinos out there too :).

We bought a used Bridgeport a while back and finally managed to build up a phase convertor and got everything running. Believe it or not, we sold a restored Torino console to get the Bridgeport (and still had some money left over!). It sure is handy to have around. Got most of the machining done, so all that is really left now is welding an painting. Hope to have near functional this weekend. Torino is ready to drop on the ground now. Before I know it, there will be a real engine in it for a change.

Got the 315's mounted on the rear rims and on the car. They actually fit quite nicely and won't need any wheel spacers. Need to get the front wheels narrowed 1" and those will be all set too.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/04/rotisserie_008-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/04/rotisserie_009-1.jpg

[chavezdel]

Nice build... looking good with those wheels too..

[Bjkadron]

Aren't mills just awesome! I love those old Bridgeports! I do have to admit I like the Victor mills a little better... But Bridgeport makes some awesome tools! And their lathes are the best!

Can't wait to see this rotisserie go together... I'm getting ready to start mine.

[Cannon]

I had a 1968 Fairlane 500 coupe I always wanted to know what it would look like if I had kept it and had the money to do it in a PT style.
Subscribed for sure!

[gto406]

Plans for auto-rotisserie may be found on e-Bay:

http://stores.ebay.com/UltimatePlans

Hope this helps!

[SVTforme]

Finally making some progress here. Almost done - just need to add the winch to the mix, slap on some paint and call it a day. Was able to lift it in the air and everything looks OK. For now it just uses 3 legs and does not tie the two sides together so it is easy to get on and off the chassis fixture. Once that gets out of the way we will put the tie bars in. We ended up just using an old set of bumper brackets for the front setup which made things much easier. Just need to clean the car out so it can be flipped over. Now I just need somewhere to put all of this stuff. In the end it was much cheaper than buying new, but cost lots of time.

Should be on the ground this week and then the powertrain game can begin.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/05/rotisserie_010-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/05/rotisserie_011-1.jpg

[SVTforme]

Since the other car is quickly approaching build time, we are finishing up finding all the odds and ends we need for it. Finally found a used set (although not really used) on Ebay from someone that bought the set and did not use. They are Maximum Motorsports Fox body Mustang forward offset control arms with Delrin bushings.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/05/georgia_front_susp_001-1.jpg

Finally after all this time, the car has been put back on the ground. It is still floating on the rotisserie for the time being. Just need to get springs on the car and it will roll around after that. The front wheels go in this week for narrowing to 18x9. To bad 315's don't work on the front - they sure make the car look mean. Will have roll the car outside soon and get some good pictures for a change.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/05/texas_front_susp_071-1.jpg

[CruizinKev]

sweet!!! looks sick :twothumbs

[RS_Customs]

Nice build!

I'll have to find the time to read through the posts and not just catch the pictures, lol.

Robert

[SVTforme]

Front wheels went out a week or so ago to Weldcraft Wheels to get narrowed 1" to 18x9 and we expect one set back this week. After that the car can actually sit on the ground on actual suspension and not have the tires rub on something. Replaced the rear wheel bearings on the IRS as they are a weak point in the design and one was on its way out. They are done and back in the car again now after cleaning them up and pressing in new bearings. Also mocked up the front sway bar and fabricated most of the parts needed for the rear spring perches. Need to grab some more pictures and post them.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/05/Texas_IRS_028-1.jpg

[ProjectSideOiler]

waaaaay cool project! Just read the entire post too.

Looking forward to more progress pics.

[streetrod77]

Since the other car is quickly approaching build time, we are finishing up finding all the odds and ends we need for it. Finally found a used set (although not really used) on Ebay from someone that bought the set and did not use. They are Maximum Motorsports Fox body Mustang forward offset control arms with Delrin bushings.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/05/georgia_front_susp_001-1.jpg

Finally after all this time, the car has been put back on the ground. It is still floating on the rotisserie for the time being. Just need to get springs on the car and it will roll around after that. The front wheels go in this week for narrowing to 18x9. To bad 315's don't work on the front - they sure make the car look mean. Will have roll the car outside soon and get some good pictures for a change.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/05/texas_front_susp_071-1.jpg
Did the 315's fit your 18x10 rims's?

[SVTforme]

Did the 315's fit your 18x10 rims's?

They actually fit better than I had expected. I think the PS2's are a bit narrower that some 315's are. The rims are actually slightly wider than 10" which helped tot. Ideally I would have likely 10.5-11", but these will work for now.

[SVTforme]

Finally time for some inspirationsal shots. Got the wheels back yesterday from Weldcraft - they did an excellent job. I measured run-out on the machine and they were near perfect. They also took very little weight to balance.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/06/texas_wheels_001-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/06/texas_wheels_002-1.jpg

We mounted up the wheels yesterday and dropped the car on the ground and rolled it outside for the first time in years. Got the ride height pretty close to where it will be - looks pretty mean. Front suspension is riding on the coil-overs, and the rear is just blocked up using wood for now (waiting on springs).

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/06/texas_exterior_001-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/06/texas_exterior_002-1.jpg

Figued we may as well try throwing one of the engines in to see how everything fits while we are at it. Everything fits surprisingly well. Just need to establish where to drill holes in the relocated motor mounts to get the engine as far back as possible. Big thing is the supercharger clears the hood with lots of room to spare. May not end up running the hood scoop in the to keep the stealth theme going :).

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/06/texas_engine_install_005-1.jpg

[Motown 454]

That looks like it will be a nice ride height.

[bonecrrusher]

Your wheels say wood.... hehehe...

Sorry.. had to!

[705.0Merc]

Looks pretty!

[garner67]

Nice to see some new update pics.

The wheels turned out great, and the stance looks just right.

With the current temp engine install, how much ground clearance do you have between the oil pan and the ground?

Keep up the great work!

[SVTforme]

Your wheels say wood.... hehehe...

Sorry.. had to!

Haha.. saw that one coming :).


Nice to see some new update pics.

The wheels turned out great, and the stance looks just right.

With the current temp engine install, how much ground clearance do you have between the oil pan and the ground?

Keep up the great work!

The nice thing about this is there is actually lots of clearance. We have the suspension set up at stock 99-04 Mustang ride height (not lowered). I think there is around 6.5" clearance to the ground. The k-member is slightly lower and ahead of it to protect the pan. The lowest point on the car will likely be the long tube headers. Will likely find that out this weekend.

[dusterbd13]

seeing it sit on the ground makes me miss my 68.

looks really good.
have you thought about the tire height or wheelwell mods to fill it in a little better?

[John Wright]

Love those cars...my "late" uncle bought a dark blue talladega torino brand new with a 428 CJ and I have pictures around here somewhere of that car at his wedding when I(5yo) was the ring bearer...cool memory, I can remember hearing that thing rumble as they drove off from the church.

[chunger]

Craig,

It's really coming together now. Love the fuzzy dice!

Throw some primer on that thing and you'll be at least halfway done!

[HectorM52]

have you thought about the tire height or wheelwell mods to fill it in a little better?
I had the same question in my head when I saw it. Rear wheel actually appears smaller - must be the angle.

Either way, the rear needs more meat.

[streetrod77]

Cool, I see Weldcraft has a fast turn a round rate. I was thinking about adding 1.5 inches to my rear wheels but was wondering how long it took.

[SVTforme]

I had the same question in my head when I saw it. Rear wheel actually appears smaller - must be the angle.

Either way, the rear needs more meat.

It would be nice to have a slightly larger tire.. but unfortunately available tire sizes and space in the front wheel well dictate otherwise. The cars have fairly wide openings unfortunately.

The front and rear tire OD's are nearly identical. We are running Michelin Pilot Sport PS2's 275/35/18's (25.6" OD) on the front and 315/30/R18 (25.5" OD) on the rear. The 315's only come in 30 series.. so there is not much choice there. Originally wanted to go with 335's, but they just won't fit with the IRS there. Also got all 4 tires nearly new for under $400.. so they will stay until it is time to replace next time :).

The 275's barely clear the fender with the wheels turned and the suspension compressed. A tire that is any taller will make a mess on the fender and on the tire. The options here are to increase the ride height to get a taller tire, reduce the tire widths front and rear to be able to get taller tires, change tire brands, or cut up the fenders. We did not want to opt for any of these options so here we stand.

I think in the picture since you can see things through the rear wells it actually looks worse than it is. Once the gas tank and exhaust go in it will tend to black things out a bit.


Cool, I see Weldcraft has a fast turn a round rate. I was thinking about adding 1.5 inches to my rear wheels but was wondering how long it took.

They were really fast for us.. have the other two wheels for the other car almost done too. James is great to work with over at Weldcraft.

[jdburton3]

you said with the suspension fully compressed. would putting a "bump stop" in there gain you any significant space? my guess is it won’t. but don't remember any mention of a bump stop in the thread, and i know you are working with "stock" mustang suspension. i know you raised the shock towers to lower the car can't remember at this moment if you have lowering springs etc. so i assume there is more travel than most lowered suspension set-ups, just another thought.
love the look and ingenuity, can't wait to see the pics of the rear spring perch set up. i have a 99 irs waiting to go in my 84 gt. not as much fab work as yours to install, but those radiused tubes you used look so much cleaner and stronger than the crimped, stock tubes. i might have to put in the effort to do something similar to get the tidy look you have, and get the car lower without changing the geometry as much, if at all.

[SVTforme]

The struts and shocks have integrated jounce and rebound bumpers which dictate the amout of travel in the suspension. I suppose these could be changed if we really wanted to.

The suspension on our cars is in the exact same position as a Mustang that just rolled off the assembly line (control arm angles etc). This allows up to keep the same jounce and rebound travel as well. We cheated with ours as we are able to move any point around on the suspension since we are fabricating everything anyway. We put the suspension in the design position, and lowered the car on top of it to where we wanted it. The limitations here were control arm to frame clearance, engine to hood clearance and trans to floor clearance.

To do the same thing we did on a stock Mustang, you would need to move the strut mount up and move the k-member up (which moves the control arm pivot points). Some of this you can achieve by using an aftermarket k-member and caster camber plates. Some aftermarket k-members move the control arm and steering points upwards. The problem with lowering a car is you lose some of your jounce travel, as well as the obvious bump steer issues. Certain caster camber plates allow you to move the strut shaft up using custom spacers depending on the amount the car is lowered. This gets you some of the jounce travel back. Moving the IRS mounting points up would be a tough one and I am not even sure how this could be done without major modifications.

I think getting an IRS into a Fox body is a relatively straighforward process, although I am not sure which years this applies to. I think there are many websites out there with the complete procedure.

[jdburton3]

using a set of radiused tubes like yours could allow me to shift the whole irs frame upward. and if i do it @ 1.5" or 2" in conjunction with a yet to be determined set of lowering springs then the rear geometry shouldn't get all out of whack. it's an idea i am toying with. won't know for sure untill i get under it and start measuring. look forward to more of your build.

jason

[Dalamar]

Nice progress Craig!

[ryeguy2006a]

Looking good. When will you get a video of the cars running?

[titan460]

Any updates on this project? Torinos look sooo much better than mustangs in my opinion. Just saw this on my local craigslist: http://omaha.craigslist.org/cto/1850326536.html

[SVTforme]

Been too long since I have posted. Made lots of progress on the car since last time. Firewall is complete, heater box now fits like a glove, A/C condenser and radiator are mounted as well. All the wiring is in the car and all the parts and pieces to make the engine run. Just need to get the brakes so we can actually go somewhere once we get it running.

Car is very close to starting - just have to get past the PATS (passive anti theft system) on the car. All the parts and pieces came from different cars so the keys don't match the ones stored in the cluster etc. I just need to reflash the PCM and turn it off for now. The engine cranks over and everything else on the car works. The PATS system won't allow the injectors to fire because it thinks the car is being stolen. I expect we will have it running this coming week.

[SVTforme]

Finally got the PATS thing figured out. Surprisingly enough, with that out of the way, car fired right up on the first crank. Needed a motivational point along the way. Too bad we don't have functioning brakes and a driveshaft.. otherwise we could go for a lap around the block.

Open exhaust is music to my ears :). Motor mounts are shot.. polyurethane ones will fix that.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YCKnn4SFFaI (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YCKnn4SFFaI)

[CruizinKev]

sounds greeeeeaaat!!!!!!!!!

[Bjkadron]

Nice!

[John Wright]

Sweet music!

[bonecrrusher]

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
DAMNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNN!

[nlancaster]

Any new work on these cars. Great work so far.

[shortrack]

I hate to buy anything new......

you are such a Canadian......man I can relate!

probably has something to do with the 13% sales tax we have to pay on new items....

keep diggin' brawtha.....!

[69fbodyproject]

Joys of Alberta no PST just the damn federal tax. Never has stopped me ffrom spending cash though.

[SVTforme]

Suppose it is about time to post some updates. Making some decent progress lately.

Keeping in the theme of used parts.. picked up some more of them. Found a set of nearly new Energy Suspension 4.6L motor mounts and also a Wilwood proportioning valve. Had to buy the oil filter adater new though - the one from Ford Racing is a nice piece (M-6881-C). Planning on running a remote oil filter w/t-stat and also an oil cooler in front of the cooling module. This part also increase the block inlet hose to 2" to further reduce the possibility of water pump cavitation.

We made up custom radiator and condensor mounts which allow us to get them both between the frame rails to keep them as low as possible. This way the degas bottle can be mounted where it was intended to go and remain the highest point in the cooling system, but at the same time being low enough to clear the hood which is does nicely. All these parts are from a 2004 Cobra which uses a 36mm all aluminum radiator. All other Mustangs except the Mach 1 have plastic end tanks. A/C compressor is now in and the new Mustang heater box also fits on the firewall. Just need to run the lines and the A/C system will be complete.

The firewall has been completed and is ready to install along with the floor pans. Rear suspension is nearing completion and just needs to be final welded. The only thing missing in the pic is the upper coil spring retainer. ABS wiring is now in place. Last thing to do is run the hard lines which will come next.

As an aside - I had never used the wet toilet paper trick to remove a pilot bearing so I figured I would give it a try. I am used to the messy grease trick. Surprisiningly this worked like a charm and clean-up is a breeze. You sure can fit a lot of paper in there! Installed a resurfaced 2004 Cobra aluminum flywheel, clutch, pressure plate, throwout bearing and clutch cable. Trans side of things is ready to go. Just need to get the mounts in.

We put the car on the scales and put every part and piece we planned on putting on the car. Looks like the car will come in at around 3450lb curb weight (56%ft/44%rr). With driver and gear we are looking at around 3650lb track weight. We put the car in the air and measured all of the corner weights and using the motion ratios front and rear figured out what spring rates to use. We are using 2.5" ID front springs and 60mm rear springs from Hypercoil. The target is to run a front ride frequency of ~1.55Hz and 1.7Hz in the rear for the street. For the track the ride frequencies will be similar front to rear.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/09/texas_engine_install_007-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/09/texas_cooling_system_001-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/09/texas_cooling_system_002-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/09/texas_firewall_mods_022-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/09/Texas_IRS_029-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/09/texas_engine_install_006-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/09/texas_front_susp_072-1.jpg

[WS6]

Looking great Craig. This is one of my favorites to watch because you guys are so inventive and this is such a different build.

[John Wright]

Sweet...thanks for the update...glad to see this project still moving along nicely.

[SVTforme]

Managed to get some things done over the past month or so. Floors are in the car and basically done and now ready to weld in. Decided to move back to the rear suspension and things back together for good. First step was to add 1.5" to the rear wheel wells to make them clear the tires, and then notch the frame out for the 2.75" shock mount tubes. Once the shocks were in, we were able to confirm the shock jounce and rebound travel and everything looks OK clearance wise. Wheel wells are now tacked into place and ready for final welding. Sure would be nice if someone out there made Torino sheet metal parts :). Still lots of welding to do here, but getting much closer by the day.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/11/Texas_IRS_030-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/11/Texas_IRS_031-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/11/Texas_IRS_032-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/11/Texas_IRS_033-1.jpg

[U_SAY_GO]

OK, explain the toilet paper trick....I have used grease and a punch before and frankly didn't have a lot of luck with it.

[SVTforme]

OK, explain the toilet paper trick....I have used grease and a punch before and frankly didn't have a lot of luck with it.

I had only used the grease method in the past, and although it worked - it was a pain to clean up in the end. I was somewhat skeptical with this technique but I figured I would give it a try. All you do it tear up pieces of toilet paper into small strips and soak them before packing them behind the bearing. Take a piece of steel or something along those lines that has an OD similar to the ID of the bearing and keep packing the pieces in until the bearing comes out. After that you just clean up the mess of paper and water which takes all but a minute.

There are tons of videos on Youtube of the process.

[SVTforme]

Finished tacking in the pass side wheel well and made up the shock mount for that side too. Everything is ready for final weld. Time to move back to something we have been putting off for a while now - spring mounts, spring sizing and locking in the ride height with all these parts which turned out to be easier said than done. As you can see - we ended up making a new upper spring mount to clean things up and transition it into the existing frame.

Three main parts to the rear suspension travel - and each stage has it's own issues:

Rebound/full droop position - this is with the wheel pushed all the way down. The car will rarely see this position, but is is possible and will always occur when lifting thcar in the air using a hoist. The first issue we ran into is that our springs are too stiff and the spring will just fall out of the car as is as they are all their free length at this position. Simple solution - just buy longer springs right? Unfortunately not that easy - if you get longer springs, the car will just sit that much higher. Since the motion ratio is approx 0.5, if you make the spring .5" longer, the car rides 1" higher. Solution here is to run Hypercoil helper springs. You can completely compress these springs by hand, but there is enough spring force to keep the main sping in place. They compress to a mere 0.3". The keep the lower spring in place on the lower mount - we opted to use a nylon part made by Vorshlag which some may recognise as a BMW parts supplier. To keep these in place, we just made up 1 3/8" posts as you can see in one of the final pics. We also used a similar sized spacer to keep the ride height adjuster in place. The other key point about this position is still being able to get the spring adjuster in position on the top post.

Design position - this is the position the car naturally sits at full of fluids on the ground. To fine tune the ride height, we opted to use 60mm ride height adjusters made by AST - yet other BMW part. Based on the second picture - you can see that the helper springs are full compressed and the entire weight of the car is now in the springs. To get the car at the correct height was a combination of spring length selection (since the rate was fixed to achieve a certain ride frequency), helper spring height, coil spacer height, and ride height adjuster overall height. The goal was to have the height adjusters at their midpoint at design position (which they actually sit at although not shown in the picture).

Jounce position - this is with the wheel pushed all the way up and riding on the jounce bumpers, which in this case are built into the shocks. Couple of issues you have to watch out for here - coil bind on the springs, control arm contact to the frame, and upper and lower spring seat misalignment. For the purpose of illustration, I stuck another spring on the car as compressing the other springs would require anchoring the car to the ground.

With all this in place and all the issues worked out (for now), the rear suspension design is complete and just needs to be final welded in place. This will make the process much easier on car #2.

Only thing left in the rear suspension area now are the brake line routing and getting all the ABS parts in place.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/11/Texas_IRS_034-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/11/Texas_IRS_035-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/11/Texas_IRS_036-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/11/Texas_IRS_037-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/11/Texas_IRS_038-1.jpg

[Bryce]

Nice progress!

[Bryce]

What if you added a droop limiter instead of that helper spring?

[John Wright]

Sweet! It's good to see progress.....

BTW, Is there any way to retain the spring @ full droop with a flexible cable or something or maybe limit the droop so that the spring can't ever come out if you should get that end of the car too light for some reason? I like your idea and that works good on coil overs, but this arrangement makes me nervous that the spring might slip off the seat.

[chunger]

Good Times, Craig. Keep up the excellent work!

[bonecrrusher]

Vorschlag - they also make LS1 V8 swap parts into e36 bmw chassis - at least thats where I know them from...

Rear suspension setup is looking kick ass!

[droptop73]

Drag cars use travel limiters on the front suspension. Some are cable and some are chain.

[Bryce]

I have a cable limiter on the front of my falcon as well as my drag mustang.

[cobragt]

Awesome build! You check out that cowl real well? They tend to rot out just as much as the Mustang one do.http://images54.fotki.com/v1592/photos/4/44146/4148856/PB070007-vi.jpg (http://images54.fotki.com/v1592/photos/4/44146/4148856/PB070007-vi.jpg)

[cobragt]

http://images54.fotki.com/v1592/photos/4/44146/4148856/PB070007-vi.jpg

[SVTforme]

Thanks for all the comments!


What if you added a droop limiter instead of that helper spring?

I thought about it.. but decided to just run with the stock Mustang rebound travel. The springs actually package in quite nicely - better than expected.


Sweet! It's good to see progress.....

BTW, Is there any way to retain the spring @ full droop with a flexible cable or something or maybe limit the droop so that the spring can't ever come out if you should get that end of the car too light for some reason? I like your idea and that works good on coil overs, but this arrangement makes me nervous that the spring might slip off the seat.

Believe it or not - you can't get the spring out of there even if you wanted to. To install the springs, you need to remove the lower shock bolt to get into full droop as the shocks limit the travel. With the shock attached - you can pull on the springs as hard as you want and they will not come out (that is the first thing I tried). Otherwise I would have been too paranoid :).


Vorschlag - they also make LS1 V8 swap parts into e36 bmw chassis - at least thats where I know them from...

Rear suspension setup is looking kick ass!

Yup - same guys. These are actually parts that were made for the rear IRS from an E36 in non coil-over applications. Looks like they need to start marketing them in the Torino section on their site :).


Awesome build! You check out that cowl real well? They tend to rot out just as much as the Mustang one do.http://images54.fotki.com/v1592/photos/4/44146/4148856/PB070007-vi.jpg (http://images54.fotki.com/v1592/photos/4/44146/4148856/PB070007-vi.jpg)

Cowls are actually in really good shape on both cars as they are from down south.

[cobragt]

Thanks for all the comments!



I thought about it.. but decided to just run with the stock Mustang rebound travel. The springs actually package in quite nicely - better than expected.



Believe it or not - you can't get the spring out of there even if you wanted to. To install the springs, you need to remove the lower shock bolt to get into full droop as the shocks limit the travel. With the shock attached - you can pull on the springs as hard as you want and they will not come out (that is the first thing I tried). Otherwise I would have been too paranoid :).



Yup - same guys. These are actually parts that were made for the rear IRS from an E36 in non coil-over applications. Looks like they need to start marketing them in the Torino section on their site :).



Cowls are actually in really good shape on both cars as they are from down south.

Even the used one we got from here in Georgia still had problems, If you have the time I'd still take the top off and P O R the inside. That would at least keep it from starting to leak latter on. Always better to be safe than sorry.