C4 IRS Narrowed...camber question

[Stovebolter]

Guys, I think for the most part I have this thing whipped. I narrowed the batwing 10" overall and will beef it up with 1/4" 6061 plating, tig welded to the outer portions covering the inner webbing. Narrowed each side 3". Installed the VPB lower camber links and Denny's half shafts. Have an idea for mounting the QA1's. Now for the questions.

Suspension travel: without notching the frame, the first thing to touch is the toe links, with 2 3/4" of travel up (compression) from rest. Should I alow more. I have a feeling I should have allowed more stroke, the trouble is, I was worried about ripping my fenders off so I went with the shortest QA1 with 4" of stroke....giving me about 2" of up travel (comression). Any thoughts?


QA1 mounting: I'm told, not to mount the QA1's off the factory shock mount, which makes sense to me. I have seen people make a sort of plate mount using the two bolts that support the dog bones (trailing arms). The trouble is, I really cant use the top bolt because it nearly touches the frame when the suspension is fully compressed. Its like a 1/16" away from frame. I could notch the outside of the frame slightly but I was wondering if it would work using the lower dog bone bolt and the factory shock mount instead, and just leave the upper bolt alone. Anyone mounted thier coil-overs this way?


Camber change: This is strictly an eyeball way of checking camber. Used a inclinometer. My camber tool is on its way. With the face of the rotor at 0 degrees at rest. On full compression of the suspension, 2 3/4" upward (compressed) motion, I lose 1 degree of camber and lose the same 1 degree when moving down 2 3/4". Total of 5 1/2 " of overall suspension travel. Is this acceptable? Any thoughts. New poly busings throughout already installed. I also noticed the forward bracket for the dog-bones flex a little. Not much but they do flex some.

Any thoughts would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Dave

[ProdigyCustoms]

You should be getting much more camber gain then 1 degree. We get a ton of camber gain on Project Prodigy, it is narrow 7" overall. As for where to mount your shocks, In a stock chassis I am of little help. On Project Prodigy Michael built the entire frame, so those shock provisions were built in. Maybe you can run a crossmember for the upper shock mounts?

If you do use the factory lower shock mount, you really do need to build a reinforcment bracket to tie the 2 holes together. That was designed to hold a shock, not a coil over and is likely to snap off if it is not reinforced.

[Stovebolter]

You should be getting much more camber gain then 1 degree. We get a ton of camber gain on Project Prodigy, it is narrow 7" overall. As for where to mount your shocks, In a stock chassis I am of little help. On Project Prodigy Michael built the entire frame, so those shock provisions were built in. Maybe you can run a crossmember for the upper shock mounts?

If you do use the factory lower shock mount, you really do need to build a reinforcment bracket to tie the 2 holes together. That was designed to hold a shock, not a coil over and is likely to snap off if it is not reinforced.

I'm about to get a Herb Adam's suspension book. Any others you can think of? I checked again....at rest I set my camber for 0 degrees......raising the suspension up almost 3 inches I end up with -1 degree camber....lowering the same ammount I end up at +1 degree of camber. How much would you concider ideal? The camber links I bought from VBP are set up so the adjustment inboard is for verticle changes....resulting in less camber change....I believe. I'll adjust the camber links so they are as far up as possible and check again. Thanks for the help!

Dave