67 Firebird Conversion to LT1 12" Brakes

[Spool'n Fool]

I'm ready to convert the 67 Firebird I'm working on over to the 12" 98 LT1 brake set up. I bought the brackets from Rich H and have rotors. I'm turning the drum brake hubs to fit into the rotors.

Now, can I use 98 - 02 LT1 Camaro calipers and hardware? Since I need to get a set from the bone yard, what tools remove the assembly?
What area do I need to grind down on top of the spindle (somewhere) to accomodate the set up?

What studs do I need to get from Napa so I can get wheels on?
What is the metric thread for installing new steel brake lines to the flex hose?

There was an article I read a year ago, but I can't find it here again.

The rear end is already set up for the 12" brake conversion. what proportion valve, master cyl and power booster should I use? will one from a 79 TA WS6 work?

Any help is greatly appreciated!

[Spool'n Fool]

Found some old info.. Looks like I need LS1 brake calipers 98+?

Gotta grind the boss to make the braket area flush.

Studs 2-1/4"?

[1BADRS]

98 would be LS1, 97 and Lower would be LT1...

[Apogee]

98-02 LS1 F-body calipers, pads, pins, boots and pad abutment brackets. You should be able to just remove the M12 hex head fasteners holding the pad abutments to the knuckles and then remove the hoses...done deal. Have you considered purchasing new or reman calipers? They're not that expensive.

Grind the spindle? Assuming you have drum spindles, that's going to be a function of the design of the bracket, as not all brackets require you to machine the upper spindle boss down to look like a factory disc spindle.

Hoses are M10x1.0 banjos at the calipers and M10x1.0 ISO bubble flares at the hardline/flex hose joint, but there's no reason you can't convert to SAE or AN.

Wheel studs...what size do you want to run? I'd suggest upgrading from the wimpy 7/16-20 studs supplied on early GM applications to an M12x1.5 ARP such as the #100-7708, which are plenty long at 2.49" and plenty strong for most applications. You can get bulge lug nuts with a 19mm wrench size, virtually the same as 3/4", if you're lazy and don't want to upgrade the rear, but I'd suggest doing both ends of the car at the same time if you can.

I'd suggest an adjustable proportioning valve, 1" bore MC with a good functioning vacuum booster. I believe the WS6 MC has an 1-1/8" bore.

Tobin
KORE3

[Hammered]

I have this setup on a '67 Firebird and have a 1 1/8" bore C3 master with hydroboost and adj. proportioning valve. With Hawk pads they work great.