Garage Plans

[go-fish]

Does anyone have material list and flor plans for a 60X40 shop? I am going to be buying 3.2 acres soon and I'm looking at options. I used to frame houses and built up to 3500 square foot houses in singer Vince Gill's golf community. I think I can handle a box.
However, I would like to do a metal building for other reasons, I also am entertaining whether I should do a loft and/or a little pooper closet and a sink.
I was thinking about a double wide and a sinle sized garage door under the same gable.
Just kind of looking for suggestions.

[SatisTraction]

i would do a full bath with an office.

[Paul_J]

My dad did a metal 40 X 60 building on our property. We just called up a local Supplier and told him what we wanted and he put together several options. We had that one erected for us but since have put up two more ourselves. Do a local search for someone in your area that sels the materials and they some times have kit prices that are real close to what you need.

[69LT1Nova]

Heck yeah, get a p!sser in there at a minimum. A shower would be nice for those greasy days. A loft comes in super handy to get things off of floor level.

One BIG think I'd make sure of is that when you pour the foundation you make it thick enough that you can install a lift. God, I'd kill for a lift. 220V and 480V wiring is nice to have, and heaters. LOTS OF LIGHTS! Keep in mind a compressor closet.

Oh yeah, and plenty of man-doors so you don't have to roll the garage door up and down and lose your heat in the dead of winter.

Other cool things to have: internet access, cable TV, and of course, a beer fridge.

[go-fish]

The beer fridge is a must. I was thinking of an 8" slab in the portion where I would want a lift and 6 in the rest. The compressor would go under a lean-to type closet on the outside with PVC piping to 3 air chucks on the side walls and back wall.
The man door would go on the side close to the garage doors. 220 is a must as well.
I have a buddy that restores Mopars that doesn't live too far from there. He has a shop that I use now for my 'cuda project. His is wood construction and corrugated metal. The only thing I would change about his is the insulation.
I live in So. Mississippi so heaters aren't a real big deal. It only reaches freezing twice a year at the max. Summer on the other hand is a killer. The humidity will choke you out faster the a UFC fighter. I have put more thought toward A/C than heat.
At my buddy's shop we use a propane bottle heater and only turn it on for about 15 minutes and as long as the door doesn't open it'll be good for an hour before you start getting chilly.
I was looking on line and there are plans you can buy for around $275.00. They have low ceilings though. I would definately have to plan for a lift and a 10' ceiling won't do.

[Scottem]

My business manager (the wife) and I are getting ready to build a house and a shop is in the cards.

Just a quick poll here: Would you install "drains" in the shop?

Maybe during the winter, washing a vehicle in the garage or wet sanding may make the drain option a good one. Perhaps a grease trap would be in order?

[ho428]

I've drawn floor plan layouts for various size shops but never the structure. If I ever get to build a 40 x 60 (that's the dream size I want as well) it would have a block walled bay with a drain to wash cars in the winter. Also use it for wet sanding, pressure washing underneath, etc...
Small den/kitchen area and bathroom w/ shower. Probably put those on an upper level mezzanine though. Hate to use valuable floor space for that.

[Tony_SS]

Check this place out:
http://justgarageplans.com/index.php

You might get some ideas there.

If I was to do it over again, I would've done a second story loft area for storage since I like to keep all my factory stuff.

Build as big as you can go with your space allowed. Its so easy to fill it up but not as easy to expand when its full.

[Roger M]

Depending on the climate that you live in (how cold does it get?) you may want to consider doing hydronic floor heating in the concrete slab. It is very effecient and very comfortable heat. It's what i do for a living, but i also have it in my house and will have it in my shop when i get to build one.

[69LT1Nova]

Just a quick poll here: Would you install "drains" in the shop?

Maybe during the winter, washing a vehicle in the garage or wet sanding may make the drain option a good one. Perhaps a grease trap would be in order?

Oooo... awesome idea! :1st:

That would come in super handy when doing paint & body work or cleaning out the undercarriage. Altough I'm sure some inspector would get his shorts in a wad about EPA/pollution BS.

I'd be sure to have some drain sweeps installed just in case there is a clog.

[ATAK, Inc.]

I was thinking of an 8" slab in the portion where I would want a lift and 6 in the rest.

6" is a little over-kill. 4" will work juse fine and save quite a bit, concrete cost wise. Use #3 rebar at 24" O.C., each way, and use 3,000 or 3,500psi concrete. If you don't have lasting freezing weather you probably don't need to worry about air entrainment in the concrete. At the area for the lift (is it the two-post type?), if you know where you want it, you only need a 36"x36" 8" thickened slab at those locations. What size perimeter continuous footing are you going to use? Just some food for thought.

I'm a structural inspector and have been around the block a few times.

[go-fish]

What size perimeter continuous footing are you going to use? .

I don't know, whatever I need for a 60X40? Concrete is something I would not do myself. I have helped pour concrete twice and figured it was not for me.
I am also considering a pole barn. High ceiling for a lift, easy to erect, and cheaper.
I am basically thinking about three walls and the door end being two headers framing out a big roll up garage door and a smaller one car sized door.
Maybe two ridge sections. One roof above the single car door raised for a four post lift poured with 8".
The roof above the larger door could be shorter. Could do 10' studs there if doing stick frame.

Does 10 ft studs all the way around with a 5 ft pony wall on top of the 10 footers for the taller section that uses the single car garage door make sense?

[go-fish]

Something somewhat like this but where the RV door is have a small door and turn those gable ends to face the same way as the other gable. The two ridges would run the same line.
I like this one. It just needs to be a bit more floor space and modifications.
Thanks for all the help and the link to the plans site.

[JMarsa]

I have one that looks like that.

--JMarsa

[shortrack]

Alot of good ideas but watch your local by laws.......around here you put in a bathroom and all of a sudden its considered a residence and you have to jump through so many different hoops it wasnt worth it.......even a simple floor drain was a no go because of the grease that could come down (I put one in anyway, hid it from the inspector when he came for final inspection).......whatever you do check your local by-laws before you do anything.......doug

[Brandon Miller]

Any good pole barn type garage plans out there?

[MarkM66]

My business manager (the wife) and I are getting ready to build a house and a shop is in the cards.

Just a quick poll here: Would you install "drains" in the shop?

Maybe during the winter, washing a vehicle in the garage or wet sanding may make the drain option a good one. Perhaps a grease trap would be in order?

Unless you plan on washing a lot of really dirty car, I don't think drains are necessary.

Wet sanding doesn't use that much water, neither does rinsing of a car.

[Scottem]

Unless you plan on washing a lot of really dirty car, I don't think drains are necessary.

Wet sanding doesn't use that much water, neither does rinsing of a car.

Thanks for the advice ! I think my builder thanks you as well !