Need some advice on a trailer purchase

[Steve Firebird]

I have been looking into buying a nice used enclosed trailer for my 68 Firebird. What options/equipment should a guy look for in a trailer? I think a 22-24 ft long X 8.5 ft wide would be plenty big enough . Is there any features that you would always want in a trailer. I have read alot of for sale ads on ebay and racing junk but it hard to know what to look for and what options are really nice to have.

[mpozzi]

My 28' Haulmark Edge is great and there's a lot of extra room. However, I'd go a bit shorter if I was to do this over again and probably would pick 24' for the overall length.

Pro's for the 28' is more capacity for stuff such as extra wheels/tires, tool box and tools, compressor, benches, cabinets (upper and lower), spare tire, jack, mats to sleep on, sleeping bag, etc.

Con's are weight and lots of it. The Edge weighs about 9,000 lbs wet and my Dodge one-ton could probably be considered overloaded when towing down the road.

Get an extended hitch (three feet) and stabilizer bars. And take a look at what you're towing the trailer with to ensure it can handle it. A loaded 24' trailer should have something with at least 10,000 GVWR rating towing it.

You'll want a compartment (exterior door) for extra fuel storage and your spare tire. Fuel vapors can eat up the interior paneling if the container is accidentally left vented. You'll also want to check out Pit Pal accessories as you can have a lot of fun outfitting the trailer to fit your needs. Pit Pal has extra cabinets for oil and cans, helmets and clothing (driving suit), aluminum jack locators, brackets for fire extinguishers, fold-up chairs, and flashlights, overhead racks for tires, and much more. I spent some coin with Pit Pal ...

Also get built-in cabinets that were installed by the trailer manufacturer or dealer, not someone else. The floor on mine is step plate. While plywood flooring is much cheaper, it won't hold up to much. And the most important feature of any trailer is a beaver-tail ramp for easy loading. The rear section of the trailer floor is sloped so when the tailgate is opened and ready for the car, it's all on the same angle.

And you get what you pay for as well. Haulmark and Featherlite have great trailers but with aluminum-built, Featherlite is quite expensive. They're available used but not that often. Haulmark is a steel frame and also very good quality. I looked at quite a few manufacturers before I selected my trailer and am very happy with it.

Good luck,
Mary Pozzi

[MrQuick]

I too have been shopping for a trailer for the last 3 years and Im with Mary I'd spend the extra money on the Haulmark. After looking at countless number of used trailers I've decided to go with new. A few bucks more but you won't have hidden problems.
Common problems with used ones i've inspected and what to watch out for.
Poor maintenence. Dry bearings, bad brakes, bent rims, shorted wire harnesses, cracked frames, bent axles, leaking roofs and my favorite....a skunk nest...very funny story with that one but i'll save it for later.

I've been talking with this guy and might arrange a pick up in Aridzona...thats if I find a car in the area. He is based in Iowa...if you don't mind the drive.
http://cgi.ebay.com/Haulmark-8-5x22-Thrifty-Hauler-2-Ton-Trailer-171601_W0QQitemZ110261534890QQihZ001QQcategoryZ954 95QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp1713.m153.l1262
The same optioned trailers in my area are in the 9000-12000 range.

My co worker has a 20 footer and he can fit his Chevelle in it nicely. I think 22" is a perfect size when considering street parking and payload.

[Nine Ball]

Wow, I think Mary covered most of it.

Some others, to consider:

Driver's side door exit. That door on the trailer that sits right where your car's driver door would be. It helps TONS on getting in/out of the vehicle.

Good tires. Get as many plys as they will offer. Several dealers cheap out on tires, and charge more for the upgrade. Do it and save yourself blowout misery. This usually requires 16" wheels.

On an enclosed, I prefer dual axle trailer brakes. That extra weight is hard on a single axle set of brakes.

Tony

[Steve Firebird]

Thanks alot for the great comments. I was looking at this one and talked to the owner. It seems to be set up pretty well. What do ya think. I really do not want to spend that much but maybe I will have to go more for a nice trailer. This one has a compresser and some other options that seemed nice to have that are not in the pictures. he said he has over 10000.00 invested in it and its a 2007 model
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWAX%3AIT&viewitem=&item=330249321709

[Motown 454]

That looks like a nice trailer
Wayne

[4MuscleMachines]

Here is one you might want to consider. I am speaking about the trailer shown in post #3. It looks like a quality trailer.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/showthread.php?t=2072558&highlight=trailer

[Scottem]

Get a spare tire !!! I had two and actually used both spares on an 1100 mile drive, both flats occurred in Ill.

HINGES ! I'm sure Featherlite and Haulmark have fine products but it may pay to be skeptical about most others. Had a trailer for the specific use of storing my classic car while deployed. The trailer was like a time capsule. Came back and had a hinge rusted and froze in place.

I don't suggest owning a trailer which has plywood on the ramp portion of the trailer. If it gets wet, water damage will easily warp the wood and weaken the edges. The little fold down flap at the base of the ramp which contacted the ground actually came off while going down the road and nearly damaged my 03 Cobra. Additionally, wood on the ramp is slippery when wet. Best ramps I've seen are modified by owners with brush on anti-slip paint.

Don't forget the little stuff, such as a small dunnage kit of wood. Using those pieces of wood (hard wood) from the kit to wedge under the end of the ramp which touches uneven ground is a make or break for a smooth on-off load of your ride not to mention the life of your hinges. Watch out for trailers which have cables on either side, they like to swipe your mirrors.

Look at the tail lights. Are they single bulbs or LED's ? LED's are brighter and last longer. Are there plenty of marker lights and reflective decals? Look under the trailer.. Are there wires hanging down, are they protected? Look at the quality of welding on the frame.
The color of the trailer was a big deal for me. White is simply the best color, IMHO. No fading to worry about, better visibility at night and cooler temps inside. Make sure there area few vents on the roof. Huge difference for inside temps. Had one trailer with the front door too far foward. A 24' trailer with the V nose and a barn door above the wheels would be ideal, but try finding one..

Look at the tongue area.. Hook ups, break away system, battery, size of ball (unless your going fifth wheel), data plate, rating, serial number, does the trailer maker fulfill your states requirements for registration? Does the tongue have a jack to hold the trailer up, does it have a ski or a wheel. I like the wheel with a manual brake on it. When the trailer is empty and on "level ground", makes it easier to manuever around.

Consider security when the trailer is hooked up to a prime mover and not hooked up. I've known some to install a GPS and others to just chain up their axles. There are a multitude of security devices out there. Shielded locks on the doors helps. Is anything really safe?

Don't forget to equip your truck with the brake controller, that is unless you go with an inertia brake on the tounge.

Don't load your car on backwards. Hauled a busted bigblock car and had to load it backwards. Additional weight past the rear most axle cause the trailer to wag badly.

Tie down straps, make sure to use straps which are at a minimun of 5K of max restraint. Some may disagree, but when you go on a trip and see that a few straps have started to weaken and partially break, then the additional restraint comes in handy. 5K straps stretch less than weaker ones. Summit or Jegs sell strap guards, its always a good thing to invest in those. Sharp edges destroy straps.

After you get your trailer at home, wet that thing down. Soak the hell out of it and if it leaks, get it fixed ! Your trailer can easily become a home for large amounts of mold ! My interior will never forgive me..

After you load a car into it, the trailer will sink a bit. Keep an eye on the rear most corner of the trailer. If your not careful, Uneven pavement will mash the corners in nicely. A friend of mine installed small but heavy duty caster wheels (welded) onto each aft most corner so it would roll more than "impact" on the ground. So many trailers get raked with tree branches on the side. The new dimensions of your vehicle tend to catch you off guard.

Hate to write this, for all those free-loaders out there, but don't loan your trailer out ! Its likely to just come back messed up in "some way".

[Steve Firebird]

Good information every one thats what I am looking for. I am going to make a check list of what I want/need and things to look out for on a used one.

[wedgehead]

I will secong the loaning out deal. Everytime I have loaned out my trailer it comes back with something wrong.

[Steve Firebird]

I hear ya stuff gets messed up pretty easy when they are not use to using it. The other thing that burns me up is when you loan something out and they just get to busy to bring it back or loan it to some one else.

[Scottem]

Would hate to loan a trailer out, only to see that the "loanee" drove it through a hail storm ! :ssst: :pat:

Oh, massive amounts of wax on the top portion of the front side of the trailer may make the bugs wash off easier. One time I used Armor All and that worked well til a hard rain on the road came along then it was time to spray some more on.. Geeze.. When will Hot Rodding, Car Craft or Hot Rod mag do an article about car trailers? :smoke:

Remember the comments about the color of the trailer.. Forgot one thing about going with white. If a panel gets damaged, or in my case: CRINKLED. Lowes or Home Depoooo carry more of the same white paneling. Its not a peel and stick design but it is good quality stuff and very handy for repairs and ya, its cheap. Its typically sold as a back splash for use with kitchen ovens. Snip, caulk and smack.

[mpozzi]

Geeze.. When will Hot Rodding, Car Craft or Hot Rod mag do an article about car trailers? :smoke:


I can freelance that article ...

Cheers,
Mary Pozzi

[PARKERRS]

Look for a trailer with Torsen axles, the ride qaulity in the tow vehicle as well as the trailer when loaded or empty compared to spring axles is phenominal.

Avoid linoleum flooring inside, when it gets wet it is more slippery than oil and an accidental fall is begging to happen. As stated above some type of coating or covering on the ramp and flap are a neccessity when loading or unloading in wet conditions or having the door open in the rain. Bare plywood doesn't hold up well to water.

As stated above, brakes on all axles is money well spent. A compatible controller in the tow vehicle is also neccessary, not all controllers will handle multi-axle brakes.

As stated above roof vents are needed for air circulation. I installed covers over mine which allow me to leave the vents open while it's raining without leaks, and they also allow me to keep the vents open while in transit which really helps with the heat.

Like others said use good tires and 16" wheels. Heavy duty tires just aren't available in a 15" size or at least not what I would use. I suggest a 10 ply tire for the job at least.

The point about the rear bottom corners made earlier is also a good one. Trailers are vulnerable to drag in this area when entering and exiting inclines. I have a Pace American Pursuit trailer and the rear area is built stronger behind the axles for this reason and it also has 1/2 inch thick skid plates welded to the rear corners from the factory.

The front top wrap is available in plastic and a rounded roof on some trailers and I have had bad experiences with these as far as leaks and cracking. In my opinion for longevity and ease of maintenance look for a trailer with a flat roof and a stainless or aluminium wrap where the front wall meets the roof as well as sqaure corners along the sides.

I have both floor and roof cabinets across the front interior and they are worth the cost, but as stated get them factory installed. The factory units use aluminum framing as well as aluminum door skins along with special latches to keep things in there and the doors shut regardless.

The barn door on the drivers side is a nice option depending on your car. Mine sits so low that the door will not open over the inner fenderwells so I still have to crawl in and out the window. It might have been easier with the barn door but I decided against it. For people with trucks or 50's cars I have seen them work well.

Personally I don't care for the extended hitch but it depends on your tow vehicle and personal preference. As long as you load properly (more wieght in front of the trailer wheels than behind) sway isn't really a problem unless you use a short bed truck with regular cab, then you might see it sway now and then. I use a 4 door long bed F350 so my tow vehicle is long to start with which helps prevent sway. I also feel that the extended hitch places more downward leverage on the tow vehicle with no added values, but this is just my personal opinion and opinions vary.

All good advice above so look for a trailer with these things in mind that fits your personal taste and budget.

Tommy

[Reckn8]

Steve, A 20 foot trailer should be long enough. I have a 20ft Featherlight and love it. Unless you're hauling it to the track to race all the time it should have plenty of room. I Bed Lined the floor so it's easy to keep clean. Don't forget, the longer they are the harder they are to put in tight places AND store the damn thing!!!
paul

[nvr2fst]

Steve I noticed your from WI. If your dead set on the Haulmark brand, Check with B&B trailers in Hartland WI. You also have a Pace dealership in Random lake. Both places sell new and used. As for as brands I dont care for either of them and would never buy a steel frame trailer again. If you are keeping the trailer outside during the winter months Haulmarks will end up rusting under (the salt eats the coating off) even if the surface rust works its way up by the wheel wells or aluminum sides it will end up forming electro reaction to the aluminum and it starts to eat away at the aluminum. Talk to one of the Mueller boys at Mueller trailer sales (pace dealership in random) We have 7 trailers varying from 16 to 26 used in my company all at one time used to all the toys before utilizing them for construction. (2pace, 3haulmark, 1interstate, 1wells cargo All pitted in WI. weather) If you have the funds purchase what I own know an all aluminum trailer. (ATC-aluminum trailer company.com) or a Rance. There not cheap but they are the best. Ill post some pictures of a 16ft ATC and a 26ATC that I have. The 26fter new is about 20grand , but look for a used one the markup is bs.
dave

[Scottem]

I can freelance that article ...

Cheers,
Mary Pozzi

Thankyou!

Parkerrs, great advice !

[monza]

On sizes bigger then 20ft. How are those to drive around? I'd like a bigger trailer but the maneuverability and driving around freaks me out. Thinking bigger then 20ft. and I get scared... is 20 to 24 much difference?

[David Pozzi]

I have a 22' box length Featherlight. it's an all aluminum (including frame) model and that helps lower the towing weight but it cost a lot more. I put a large Sears roll around tool box up front, I have it pinned in place with removable pins, the winch sits underneath and a battery box next to it.
Some times I have to pit at a race without the trailer, so everything is in plastic bin boxes. By the time I add a small wagon, fuel jugs, floor jack, jack stands, small Honda generator, bolt assortment, rivet assortment, wiring kit, folding chairs, ice chest, not to mention the bin boxes and some spare tires, that's a lot of stuff and it completely fills the front space ahead of the car.
A Camaro is around 15.5' long give or take, you need a foot or so space behind the car to clear the door, a front tool box will take say 2 feet, so 15.5 + 1 + 2 = 18.5' is used up. On a 20' trailer you only have 1.5' left. and you need space to get your body in there and tie down the front of the car. If you just store or transport a car and don't bring much stuff along, you can get by OK with a 20 footer, but the way I go, the 22' I have is minimum and needs to be well organized to do so. I'd say a 24' would be almost ideal for my use. When I haul the Lola, it's a shorter car and much less cramped.

If you have to haul very far, the V nose type trailers push a lot less air but you lose interior space.
David

[Steve Firebird]

I am really getting some good info here. I think my next step is to take a look at a few trailers and see what I think. I am hauling my Firebird to get the exhaust put on today with my 18' open trailer and it has done the job for me so far pretty well while it was in the project stage and for hauling parts cars or less valuable cars. I like the idea of having the car away the weather and under cover when I am taking it some were and even storing it in the trailer at home some of the time. I use to say the only time you would ever see my car on a trailer was if it was broke or stolen but now that it all most finished I am changing my tune. I know what Dave (NVR2FST) is talking about with the rust comments. My fenders are Swiss cheese. The comments on size are interesting. I was thinking if I was to get a shorter trailer 22-24 or even a 20 I could put some stuff in the back of my truck since I have a topper for it. I do know right now the budget is not going to allow for a aluminum trailer unless I find the deal of the century on it. One of my friends said I should just enclose the one I have but I don't think that would work to well :)
I use to just have a home made car dolly and thought if I just had a trailer I would be set. Now I have had a trailer for a while I am thinking if I could just get a enclosed trailer I will be set... Maybe I should just be happy with what I have and put the trailer money away for a rainy day.

[PARKERRS]

Length is very subjective. I had an 18' open trailer like you and it was perfect for the job ( I have second gen. Camaros ) but you must remember the differences.

With an open trailer you can walk around beside it and strap down the car or cargo. With an enclosed it is like Dave stated, you have to figure room enough for your body to get in and strap it all down. 1.5 ft. may seem like alot on the tape measure but it's a different story when you squeeze in there. I'm 43 and don't bend as well as I used too along with being 5'11" and 200 lbs. so I like a comfortable amount of room to lie down and strap the car. My cars are low and require lieing down to accomplish the strapping.

I use a 24' Pace with cabinets in front for jacks tools etc.. This works out just right room wise like the 18' open trailer did. I have plenty of room to lie down in front and behind (with door open) the car for strapping as well as storage room. The length may intimidate some people, but it's mostly a state of mind and comfort level. I used to drive Road tractors so anything less than 53' doesn't bother me, but that is a personal experience thing. Like any trailer you just need good mirrors to keep it in sight and remember to swing wide on turns. As far as towing or manuvering a longer trailer is actually easier to tow and back than a shorter one. If you don't believe it try backing a 12' utility trailer in a straight line.

Pace, Featherlight, ATC and others all make good qaulity aluminum units if you are concerned with climate or weight. I use a steel and aluminum combo unit, but I live in the southeast and have a large enough tow vehicle that the weight isn't a big penalty to me.

An enclosed trailer is something you will not regret if you ever use one. I used to say I wouldn't trailer mine and I don't very often. But if I take a trip out of state or to the far end of the state and my wife goes along it's a wonderful thing. She likes to pack everything but the kitchen sink as well as sleeping and eating in the vehicle along the way. A camaro just isn't suited for a long trip comfortably in that manner, plus I don't worry about things like hail damage or tire snake damage to my prize automobile on long trips now. After all the truck is late model and parts or repairs are much easier than 30+ year old stuff.

Used prices are better than new, but on premium brand trailers, especially all aluminum, there isn't a lot of depreciation unless they are over 5 years old ( 3 years on standard premium brands ). So the decision is yours to wiegh. Be sure to crawl under and check older trailers for structural cracking at the seams and welds. High mileage and fatigue will bring on cracking as well as overloading. Always look for a trailer with a 10,000 GVW minimum, you will push that limit faster than you think when you include the trailer weight.

Tommy

[NOT A TA]

Steve, You didn't really mention what you would be using the trailer for, track days, racing, garage, and expected trip distances. The intended use might affect the length, quality, and features that would best suit your needs and budget.

I've had several 24" enclosed all purchased new. I buy less expensive brands, do not modify or add anything, use them for a year or two and sell them. Trailer prices have been rising and I sold one last month for $200.00 more than I paid for it 1 1/2 years ago. Usually it's break even or a slight loss. I consider it cheap rental and very low or no maintenance costs involved. This way I always have new or almost new trailers.

Depending what you intend to use as a tow vehicle and how long you intend to keep it you might want to look at the pull-rite hitch line. http://www.klassesalesandservice.com/files/pullrite.htm The design allows the pivoting point to be similar to a 5th wheel type setup allowing more manuverability in tight spaces.

If you buy a box of plastic food wrap and cover the front of the trailer each trip where the bugs get smacked it'll save you a lot of cleaning.

[Steve Firebird]

The trailer will be mostly for long trips and part time storage if I am working on a big project in my shop to keep it out of harms way. I do plan to running some auto X and some drag racing but I live so far way from any large city that will be limited. I plan to drive the car most of the time take in some local cruises a few small shows and a few large shows but any thing over 250 miles I might put it on the trailer.

[vintageracer]

Steve,

You have received lots of good information on options and types of trailers to consider. I will add a different twist for your consideration.

Do NOT buy a new trailer!

Buy a HIGH END USED trailer instead of a LOW END NEW trailer. By high end used tailer I mean a Featherlite, Optima, Tommy's etc. You will spend the same amount of money or maybe even a little more on a high end used trailer than you will purchasing a lower end new trailer. You will be rewarded with a MUCH BETTER TRAILER that will last for years and have much better resale value. The increased resale value of the high end used trailer when you decide to sell will far outweigh the extra expense you spent on the front end purchasing a quality used trailer.

Low end cheap trailers are just that, CHEAP! They have very little resale value, are poorly built, they weather poorly and therefore look like crap and are at best built for the guy that uses them once a month or less. If you cannot afford a good/great high end used trailer, wait and save your money until you can! The wait is worth it!!!

Example, I have a 1990 Trailer World Stainless Steel enclosed trailer built when Richard was building his own brand of high end trailers. I purchased the trailer 15 years ago. I can still make one phone call and sell the trailer today for $10,000. By the way, that is far more than I purchased the trailer for in 1993.

All 3 of my trailers are high end trailers that I purchased used. GREAT high end equipment always retains its value and you let someone else take the new depreciation. The best part is the quality of high end equipment will give years of service.

Make a few calls to some Cup teams in NC. They always buy high end equipment and always seem to have single car trailers available for sale. Some were show car trailers, some local transport trailers. Far more 5th wheel trailers used here however there are tag trailers available.

Something else for you to consider!

[Steve Firebird]

I wanted to update the thread. I did find a trailer and brought it home. I went with a used 2001 24 ft. I guess it looks like one of the genric trailers you see alot of around. It has 5200lb torson axles and is set up just about how I wanted it. 110 wiring with lights and outlets,cabnets ,winch,and a tool box that even had some nice snap on tools in it. It pulls great and looks nice. Thanks for all the info everyone.

[BayouSS]

Steve, What are you using to pull your trailer with?

Bill

[Steve Firebird]

2001 Dodge 2500 4X4 diesel with the HD tow package. Regular cab long bed.

[BayouSS]

I was looking at buying a 26 footer to haul my truck around in plus use for a hurricane evacuation trailer for the items that can never be replaced when one comes this way, which it will sooner or later. I have my eye on a 2002 Dodge Regular cab diesel. Thanks for the reply.

Bill

[PARKERRS]

BayouSS if the truck is a short bed then I would suggest a sway control type hitch. There are several types on the market, if it's a long bed then just load properly with more wieght biased in front of the trailer wheels and you will be fine. Either way the Cummins diesel will be more than adequate to handle the job, I've owned three since '94 and haven't found a load that they wouldn't tow.
Tommy