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View Full Version : A Complete LS1 Re Build ?



FerrariT
07-01-2008, 12:55 PM
Just got a 98 ls1

stats as I was told:

425 Hp (at flywheel?)
GM Alum cylinder Heads (later casting) - ported / shaved about 7 thousandths with machined valve guides.
LSM 226/230 camshaft
Manley Dual valve springs
ferrea stainless valves
cloyes timing chain and gear set
fly cut pistons
NGK tr6 plugs
cometic head gaskets
etc,etc

Does not have an intake as of now ...

mileage:
1500 on the upper
100k on the lower

My desires:
About 700 HP+ (give or take)
turning the block into a 383, so need to pick a crank.
Turbo charged

I wish to keep it fuel injected.
Need to pick the right headers as well.
It needs a new intake.
Uncertain if I should go automatic or manual? [the project car is an auto as is but ...]
700r4 ? or t-56 ?
All t56s Ive seen are about $2500 plus on a used tranny.

Not sure where to begin at with the build.
I don't wish to just carbon copy someone else's LSX build.

the engine will go into a 3rd gen nova.

first build ever, the goals are high but I love a challenge and none shall sway my determination.

6'9"Witha69
07-01-2008, 01:00 PM
For an LS engine go for a 4L65e if you want auto (WAAAAY better than a 700R4). As for the engine, 700+ is a lot and will require GOOD aftermarket heads and a larger cam. Not sure on the specs.

Others more knowledgable on that topic will chime in here.

Good luck!

FerrariT
07-01-2008, 03:58 PM
"The 4L65E is an upgraded 4L60E"


Part II: Drivetrain

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

B. Automatic 4-Speed (A4)

Welcome to the wonderful world of the 4L60E transmission. Let me be the first to congratulate you on entering the world of the broken trans. The 4L60E is not the cruel tyrant on drivetrain parts that its M6 brother is. It is most definitely MUCH more parts-friendly. Too parts-friendly. So friendly, in fact, that it will break itself before it will break other parts. How noble... The problem is that it does this far too often, and even in full built form, this transmission is just NOT very good for real drag racing. Most in search of 10-second and quicker timeslips find that they are just not able to do it with the 4L60E tranny. They usually end up with a TH350, TH400, or 4L80 (the 4L80 being the only one of those which has overdrive).


I don't know ....
I really want to find a t56 and put a mccleod twin in it but ....

FerrariT
07-01-2008, 04:04 PM
I could get a:

5 speed Borg/Warner - $600

tranny, bell housing, fly wheel, clutch, and slave cyl out of a 95 camaro
65000 miles

??

The majority of borg warner or tremec trannys I find locally are from mustangs.

72NovaSS
07-01-2008, 04:13 PM
For that power and for an automatic...it cost a pretty penny.

The first place that comes to mind is http://www.finishlinetrans.com/

Check em' out on ls1tech.com as well.

6'9"Witha69
07-01-2008, 04:41 PM
"The 4L65E is an upgraded 4L60E"


Part II: Drivetrain

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

B. Automatic 4-Speed (A4)

Welcome to the wonderful world of the 4L60E transmission. Let me be the first to congratulate you on entering the world of the broken trans. The 4L60E is not the cruel tyrant on drivetrain parts that its M6 brother is. It is most definitely MUCH more parts-friendly. Too parts-friendly. So friendly, in fact, that it will break itself before it will break other parts. How noble... The problem is that it does this far too often, and even in full built form, this transmission is just NOT very good for real drag racing. Most in search of 10-second and quicker timeslips find that they are just not able to do it with the 4L60E tranny. They usually end up with a TH350, TH400, or 4L80 (the 4L80 being the only one of those which has overdrive).


I don't know ....
I really want to find a t56 and put a mccleod twin in it but ....Where did you find that little piece of misinformation?

WS6
07-01-2008, 06:50 PM
You'll need to build the bottom end, use large chamber after market heads, and you may want to consider going with a carb style intake manifold. It will work better with a turbo charger than a plastic factory intake.

Don't forget that your fuel system will need to be stout.

The headers will have to be custom if you're going with a turbo.

To handle that type of power, your transmission will need to be strong obviously. Either an auto or T56 will cost a lot. The auto will be easier to drive and drag race but I prefer manuals. No BW T5 will handle that type of power. A Tremec TKO can be built to handle the power but it may be cheaper to go with a T56.

FerrariT
07-01-2008, 06:51 PM
http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/4l60e-junk-81048-2.html

and

http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=361959

yes I really am not so excited about installing an automatic but ...
i'll take what I can get I guess.

:drive2:

FerrariT
07-01-2008, 06:58 PM
You'll need to build the bottom end, use large chamber after market heads, and you may want to consider going with a carb style intake manifold. It will work better with a turbo charger than a plastic factory intake.

Don't forget that your fuel system will need to be stout.

The headers will have to be custom if you're going with a turbo.

To handle that type of power, your transmission will need to be strong obviously. Either an auto or T56 will cost a lot. The auto will be easier to drive and drag race but I prefer manuals. No BW T5 will handle that type of power. A Tremec TKO can be built to handle the power but it may be cheaper to go with a T56.

a BW can not be built to handle that amount of power?
If I could locate a used t56 in my area I wouldn't mind.
but they are scarce to say the least.

6'9"Witha69
07-02-2008, 08:34 AM
T5s are weak and tend to start breaking over the 350-400 hp mark. Ask Foxbody and 3rd gen guys about those.

Listen, you can break a manual as easy as you can an auto. I abuse my 700 as often as possible with 508 hp and 542 ft/lbsgoing through it. That is only a stage 3 of 4 available from the builder.

The reason manuals usually don't break as frequently, they burn out the clutch first. Autos have no such sacrificial piece except the clutches in the trans.

Please note: I am biased mainly because I am too freakin tall to actuate the clutch pedal properly as well as heel toe in most vehicles. Even if I were the richest man in the world, I couldn't buy a new ZR-1 and expect to enjoy it for the same reason.

FerrariT
07-02-2008, 12:46 PM
actually I'm about 6'4"!
Let's just see how this plays out.

I just need to read a bit more.
going to print out a bunch of stuff.
i dislike staring a a computer screen.

WS6
07-02-2008, 03:43 PM
you're on the right path T. Research, research, research and ask questions. This place was created to help those that need it so don't be afraid to speak up if you don't understand.

FerrariT
07-05-2008, 11:50 AM
thought a bit, regrouped and I'm thinking the ballpark of 600 HP.

WS6
07-05-2008, 05:49 PM
easiest thing to do is to lower the compression and up the boost. You can do it with dish pistons or larger combustion chambered heads. 600 hp boosted is easy especially if you're still going to stroke the engine. I do still think you'd be better of starting with a different motor though. I'd either go 6.0 liter cast iron truck motor or LS2. You wouldn't need to stroke either of those motors but you easily can.

FerrariT
07-06-2008, 06:36 PM
Well I have the motor no sense in trashing it now.
Just like the nova.

This is just to get my feet wet.
Next I'm thinking LSX. (long term build.) / (different car)

actually I have that build planned out farther than the build of the actual motor i have in hand (ls1).

If I do not FI or Stroke the ls1 getting to 600hp doesn't seem to be too easy.

Also have decided to have this build an Auto and the inevitable lsx a t56.

But yea I'm getting way too far ahead of myself.

thanks.

FerrariT
07-07-2008, 04:13 AM
Heads Headers and cam.